Planning a trip to US National Parks
The National Park Service's website, www.nps.gov, has general information on national parks, monuments, and historic sites, as well as individual park maps that can be downloaded in a variety of formats. The site also contains a link to every individual park's website, and those often contain links to nearby attractions and other useful information. Unfortunately, the official national park websites are not as user-friendly as we would like, but you'll find most of the information you want if you're willing to do some searching. A good first step on the individual park websites is to look over the latest park newspaper, if it's available online.
Another useful website is www.recreation.gov, a partnership of federal agencies that can link you to information on national parks, national forests, Bureau of Land Management sites, Bureau of Reclamation sites, Army Corps of Engineers sites, and National Wildlife Refuges. You can make reservations at campsites, book tours, and either apply for or purchase various permits here.
Finally, those who like to travel with an animal companion should check out www.petswelcome.com, a site that provides tips on traveling with pets, as well as lists of lodgings that accept pets, kennels for temporary pet boarding, and veterinarians to call in an emergency.
Maps
When you arrive at a national park, you'll receive a large, four-color brochure that has a good map of the park in it and in many cases, a park newspaper that also has maps. If you plan to do some serious hiking, especially into backcountry and wilderness areas, you'll need detailed topographical maps.
Topographical maps can usually be ordered in advance from the individual park bookstores, and we suggest that you check with park personnel to see which maps they recommend. Maps can also often be purchased in electronic form and carried with you, or you can print out the sections of the areas you need to carry on the trail.
What Should I Take?
In packing for your trip, keep in mind that much of the West is a land of extremes, with an often-unforgiving climate and terrain. Those planning to hike or bike should take more drinking water containers than they think they'll need -- experts recommend at least 1 gallon of water per person per day on the trail -- as well as good-quality sunblock, hats, and other protective clothing, and sunglasses with ultraviolet protection.
Summer visitors will want to carry rain gear for the typical afternoon thunderstorms, and jackets or sweaters for cool evenings. Winter visitors will not only want warm parkas and hats, but lighter clothing as well -- the bright sun at midday can make it feel like June.
Take a first-aid kit, of course, and make sure it contains tweezers -- very useful for removing cactus spines from your flesh if you should make the mistake of getting too close. Hikers will appreciate having a walking stick.
Tips for Families
Most parks offer Junior Ranger programs that give kids the chance to earn certificates, badges, and patches for completing certain projects, such as tree or animal identification, or answering questions in a workbook. It's a good way to learn about the national parks and the resources that the Park Service protects. Also, many parks offer special discussions, walks, and other ranger-led activities for children.
For a complete list of national parks that offer Junior Ranger programs, visit www.nps.gov/learn/juniorranger.cfm. WebRangers is an online component of the Junior Ranger program, and kids of all ages can play dozens of National Park-based games, look at and share photos in a web community, and even earn WebRanger patches at www.nps.gov/webrangers.
Tips for Travelers with Pets
Most national parks, as well as other federal lands administered by the National Park Service, are not pet-friendly, and those planning to visit the parks should consider leaving their pets at home. Pets are usually prohibited on hiking trails, especially in the more popular parks, in the backcountry, and in buildings, and must always be leashed. Essentially, this means that if you take your dog or cat into the parks, the animal can be with you in the campgrounds and inside your vehicle, and you can walk it in parking areas, but that's about all. It's no fun for you or your pet.
Aside from regulations, you need to be concerned with your pet's well-being. Pets should never be left in closed vehicles, where temperatures can soar to over 120°F (49°C) in minutes, resulting in brain damage or death. No punishment is too severe for the human who subjects a dog or cat to that torture.
Those who do decide to take pets with them despite these warnings should take the pets' leashes, of course; carry plenty of water (pet shops sell clever little travel water bowls that won't spill in a moving vehicle); and bring proof that the dogs or cats have been vaccinated against rabies. Flea and tick spray or powder is also important, since fleas that may carry bubonic plague have been found on prairie dogs and other rodents in some parks, such as Mesa Verde and Bryce Canyon.
The Inside Scoop for Pet Owners -- Although pets are not permitted on the trails or backcountry in most national parks, those traveling with their dogs can hike with them over trails administered by the U.S. Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management, as well as some of the state parks that are adjacent to many national parks.
Tips on Accommodations
Although a growing number of national park campgrounds accept campsite reservations, many still do not. If you plan to camp and are heading to a first-come, first-served campground, the first thing to do upon arrival is to make sure a site is available. Campsites at major park campgrounds fill up early in summer, on weekends, and during other peak times, such as school holidays (try to avoid college spring breaks, often in Mar or Apr). A reservation or an early morning arrival (sometimes as early as 7 or 8am) is the best defense against disappointment. For each park, we indicate whether a campground tends to fill up especially early and whether reservations are accepted.
Reservations for many National Park Service campgrounds, as well as national forest and other agency campgrounds, can be made through one central reservation center (tel. 887/444-6777; TDD 877/833-6777; www.recreation.gov). Fees -- usually an $8 or $9 booking fee regardless of how many nights -- are charged.
Tips for RVers
Many people prefer to explore the national parks in an RV -- a motor home, truck camper, or camper trailer -- especially in the warm months. One advantage to this type of travel is that early morning and early evening are among the best times to be in the parks if you want to avoid crowds and see wildlife. Needless to say, it's a lot more convenient to experience the parks at these times if you're already there, staying in one of the park campgrounds.
Carrying your house with you also lets you stop for meals anytime and anyplace you choose, and makes it easy to take care of individual dietary needs. RVing also means you don't have to worry about sleeping on a lumpy mattress, and you won't need to spend time searching for a restroom -- almost all RVs have some sort of bathroom facilities, from a full bathroom with tub/shower combination to a Porta Potti hidden under a seat.
There are disadvantages, of course. If you already own an RV, you know what you had to pay for it. And even if you rent, you may not save a lot of money. Depending on the rate you get (and the cost of fuel at the time), renting a motor home could end up costing almost as much as renting a compact car, staying in moderately priced motels, and eating in family-style restaurants and cafes. That's because the motor home will go only one-quarter to one-third as far on a gallon of fuel as your compact car will, and they're expensive to rent. Some of the fancier private campgrounds now charge as much for an RV site with utility hookups as you'd expect to pay in a cheap motel.
Other disadvantages include the limited facilities in national park campgrounds (although they are being upgraded to the point where camping purists are starting to complain). Even in most commercial campgrounds, the facilities are less than you'd expect in moderately priced motels. And parking is often limited in national parks, especially for motor homes and other large vehicles. However, since most people are driving in the parks between 10am and 5pm, the solution is to head out on the scenic drives either early or late in the day, when there's less traffic. It's nicer then, anyway.
If you'll be traveling through the park in your RV and want to make it obvious that your campsite is occupied, carry something worthless to leave in it, such as a cardboard box with "Site Taken" clearly written on it.
Many national park campsites are not level. If your RV does not have built-in levelers, carry four or five short boards, or leveling blocks, that can be placed under the wheels. You'll discover that not only will you sleep better if your rig is level, but your food won't slide off the table and the refrigerator will run more efficiently.
You might consider purchasing Frommer's Exploring America by RV (John Wiley & Sons, Inc.), by Shirley Slater and Harry Basch, which includes five road trips in the West (including one in Alaska) that pass through many national parks. There are also chapters on RV basics that people renting a vehicle for the first time will find useful.
Renting an RV
If you're flying into the area and renting an RV when you arrive, choose your starting point carefully; not only do you want to keep your driving to a minimum -- you'll be lucky to get 10 miles per gallon of gas -- but rental rates vary depending on the city in which you pick up your RV. Do some research before you commit to a starting point. Rates are generally highest, between $1,000 and $1,500 per week, in midsummer. The country's largest RV rental company is Cruise America (tel. 800/671-8042; www.cruiseamerica.com), with outlets in most major western cities. RV rentals are also available in many western states from El Monte RV (tel. 888/337-2214; www.elmonte.com) and Camping World (tel. 877/297-3687; www.rvrental.com). Information on additional rental agencies, as well as tips on renting, can be obtained online from the Recreation Vehicle Rental Association (www.rvra.org).
Tips on Renting an RV -- Shirley Slater and Harry Basch have been traveling the U.S. and Canada in their RV (and writing about it, authoring Exploring America by RV and RV Vacations For Dummies [John Wiley & Sons, Inc.]) for years; here, they offer some tips on what to look for, and where to look if you're thinking of renting an RV for a national parks trip. Harry and Shirley say:
A great many rental RVs are booked by European and Australian visitors to the United States who want to see our national parks, or drive along the coast of California. The most common unit available for rental is the motor home, either the larger type A or the type C mini-motor home, which accounts for 90% of all rentals. Prices begin at around $975 a week.
Use of the generator is not usually included in the fee. You would need it only for operating the ceiling air-conditioning, microwave, and TV in a place without electrical hookups. The dealer will know how much time you've logged by reading the generator counter, usually located by the on/off switch.
If you're looking to rent a travel trailer (which you pull behind another vehicle), you'll find they usually require that you furnish your own tow vehicle, hitch, and electrical hookups on the tow vehicle.
Some companies offer a furnishings package with bedding, towels, dishes, cooking pots, and utensils for a flat price of around $100 for kitchen needs and $50 for bedding per trip. Other add-on kits are those containing power cords and hoses, plastic trash bags, toilet chemicals, and a troubleshooting guide. Remember to get a detailed list of what furnishings are included in your rental so you'll know what necessary items you have to supply. It may be easier to bring things from home than to spend vacation time searching for them on the road.
Be sure you're provided with a full set of instruction booklets and emergency phone numbers in case of a breakdown. The best thing to have is a 24-hour emergency toll-free number in case of a problem. When in doubt, ask fellow RVers what to do. They're always glad to help, but sometimes hesitant to offer for fear of offending. No matter how much you bustle around like you know what you're doing, the veterans in the campground can spot a goof-up a mile away.
Before setting out, be sure the dealer demonstrates how to operate all the components and systems of your unit. Take careful notes and, just as with rental cars, check for dents and damage from prior use before leaving the lot.
Another important detail you need to take care of when you rent/before you leave: Make sure your rental vehicle is insured. Normally, insurance on a rental RV is not covered on your personal automobile insurance, so ask your agent for a binder that extends your coverage to the RV for the full rental period. Many dealers require the binder before renting you a vehicle.
Once you've made arrangements to rent an RV, if you're flying into the region to pick up your RV, many rental companies offer free airport pickup and return, if you notify them ahead of time.
Finally, if you fall in love with your rental vehicle (as we did our first one), you might be able to negotiate a purchase price that would subtract your rental fee from the total. If the vehicle is a couple of years old, the price should be even lower, since most dealers get rid of vehicles after 2 or 3 years.
Permits
Backcountry Permits
At most national parks, it is necessary to obtain a permit to stay overnight in the park's undeveloped backcountry. Some parks have even more restrictions. To be safe, if you intend to do any backpacking, contact the park's backcountry office in advance. In some cases, it may be possible to obtain a permit online or by mail; in some cases, you must appear in person. Some parks charge for backcountry permits, while others do not; some restrict the number of permits issued and also the number of people in a group.
Other Permits
Hunting is generally not allowed in national parks, but fishing often is. You will usually need a state fishing license. Licenses are generally available at local sporting goods stores and state game and fish department offices. Fees vary for state residents and nonresidents, for various time periods, and sometimes by location within the state, but you can usually get a nonresident 1-day license for $5 to $15 and a 5- to 7-day nonresident license for $15 to $25.
In some parks (Yellowstone and Grand Teton, for example), you will need a special permit to go boating. In others, you may need a permit for cross-country skiing.
New Gun Laws
For years, guns have been forbidden in most national parks, but that changed in February 2010, when a new federal law went into effect that allows people who can legally possess firearms to have those firearms with them in most national parks. Guns are still prohibited in certain places, such as visitor centers, which are posted with FIREARMS PROHIBITED signs; and those going into national parks with firearms must comply with all state and local laws regarding firearms. Individual park websites now include links to their state's firearms laws.
Tips for Travelers with Disabilities
The National Park Service has come a long way in the past 25 or 30 years in making the parks more accessible for visitors with disabilities. Most parks have accessible restrooms, and many have at least one trail that is wheelchair accessible -- the Rim Trail at Bryce Canyon is a prime example. Several parks with sandy conditions, such as Great Sand Dunes, offer free use of specially designed wheelchairs with balloon tires for travel over sand.
In addition, as campgrounds, boat docks, and other facilities are upgraded, improvements are being made to make them more accessible. Many parks now have campsites designed specifically for travelers in wheelchairs, most in-park lodging offers accessible rooms -- some with roll-in showers -- and park amphitheaters can usually accommodate wheelchair users.
But perhaps just as important as upgrades in facilities is the prevailing attitude of National Park Service personnel that these parks are for the public -- the entire public -- and they are going to do whatever it takes to help everyone enjoy his or her park experience. People with special needs are encouraged to talk with park workers, who can usually assist, opening locked gates to get vehicles closer to scenic attractions, or simply by pointing out trails with the lowest grades or with portable toilets that are accessible.
One note on service dogs: Seeing Eye and other service dogs are not considered pets and are legally permitted anywhere in the parks. However, because of potential problems with wildlife or terrain (sharp rocks on some trails can cut dogs' paws), it's best for people taking service dogs into the parks to discuss their plans with rangers beforehand.
Many of the major car-rental companies now offer hand-controlled cars for drivers with disabilities and can provide those vehicles with advance notice. Wheelchair Getaways (tel. 800/642-2042; www.wheelchairgetaways.com) rents and sells specialized vans with wheelchair lifts and other features for visitors with disabilities. It has outlets in most western states.
And don't forget your National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Pass. It is free and will grant you free admission to most national parks and a 50% discount on many park services and facilities.
Visitor Information
Doing your homework can help you make the most of your trip; it can also help you avoid crowds. For park brochures and general planning information, contact each park directly.
Another good source of information -- and an important nonprofit advocate for America's national parks -- is the National Parks Conservation Association, 777 6th St., NW, Ste. 700, Washington, DC 20001 (tel. 800/628-7275 or 202/223-6722; www.npca.org).
A Word on Nature Associations
Throughout this guide, you'll read that a certain nature association or organization operates a particular park's bookstore. Practically every national park has a bookstore, and some have several. Bookstores are excellent sources for maps, guidebooks, videos, postcards, posters, and the like. Most of the nature associations offer memberships (usually $25-$35 per year for individuals) that entitle the member to discounts of 15% to 20% on all purchases. You'll also usually get a regular newsletter. Some of the larger nature associations also sponsor workshops and field trips, and membership usually gets you a discount for those as well.
For frequent travelers, here's the really good news: Membership in one nature association almost always entitles you to a 15% to 20% discount at other nature association bookstores at national parks, monuments, historic sites, and recreation areas. For those of us who like to collect books, topographical maps, posters, and so on, the savings add up quickly. And we can also feel very smug about what a good deed we're doing in supporting these nonprofit groups.
Visitor Centers
Your first stop at any national park should be the visitor center. Some large parks have more than one, and we list the location of each. Not only will you learn the history of the park, but you'll also get timely information such as road and trail closures, updates on safety issues, and the schedule for ranger programs. Visitor center hours usually vary by season; most are open daily from 8am until 6 or 7pm in summer, closing earlier at other times. Many park visitor centers close for New Year's Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas, even though the parks themselves, especially those with camping, usually remain open.
Fees & Permits
Though fees have increased in the past few years, visiting a national park is still a bargain -- a steal compared to the prices you'd pay for a theme park or even a movie. Entry fees, ranging from free to $25, are usually charged per private vehicle (for up to 1 week), regardless of how many visitors you stuff inside. Those arriving on foot, motorcycle, or bicycle usually pay lower per-person fees. Some parks offer passes good for unlimited visits to the same park, or a few nearby parks, for 12 months.
National Parks/Federal Land Passes
Those who enjoy vacationing at national parks, national forests, and other federal lands have opportunities to save quite a bit of money by using the federal government's annual passes.
The America the Beautiful -- National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Pass costs $80 for 1 year, from the date of purchase, for the general public. It provides free admission for the pass holder, and those in his or her vehicle, to recreation sites that charge vehicle entrance fees on lands administered by the National Park Service, U.S. Forest Service, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Bureau of Land Management, and Bureau of Reclamation. At areas that charge per-person fees, the passes are good for the pass holder, plus three additional adults. Children 15 and under are admitted free.
The passes are also available for U.S. citizens and permanent residents ages 62 and older for a lifetime fee of $10 -- the Senior Pass -- and are free for U.S. residents and permanent residents with disabilities -- the Access Pass. The Senior and Access passes also provide 50% discounts on some fees, such as those for camping and ranger-guided tours in some parks, including Carlsbad Caverns.
The Senior and Access passes can be obtained by mail with an application form available online with a $10 processing fee, or without the processing fee in person at national parks, U.S. Forest Service offices, and other federal recreation sites.
The general public version (the $80 one) can be purchased in person, by phone (tel. 888/275-8747, ext. 1), or online at http://store.usgs.gov/pass, a website that also provides complete information about the passes.
Health & Safety
Bears, rattlesnakes, and lightning can be dangerous, but that driver heading for you on a park road can be even more dangerous. In fact, motor vehicle accidents cause more deaths in the parks every year than anything else. Scenic drives are often winding and steep; take them slowly and carefully. And no matter how stunning the snowcapped peak you may glimpse is, keep your eyes on the road.
When out on the trails, even for a day hike, keep safety in mind. The wild, untouched nature of these parks is what makes them so exciting and breathtakingly beautiful -- but along with wildness comes risk. The national parks are neither playgrounds nor zoos. The animals here are truly wild and sometimes dangerous. This doesn't mean that disaster could strike at any time, but visitors should exercise basic caution and common sense at all times, respecting the wilderness around them and always following the rules of the park.
Never feed, bother, or approach animals. Even the smallest among them can carry harmful, sometimes deadly, diseases, and feeding them is dangerous not only to you, but also to the animals, who (like us) will eat what their bodies can't handle. In addition, wild animals' dependence on handouts can lead to unpleasant confrontations, which often result in rangers having to relocate or kill the animal. As the Park Service reminds us, "A fed bear is a dead bear."
In some parks where there are bears and mountain lions, it's often a good idea to make noise as you hike, to make sure you don't stumble upon and frighten an animal into aggression. Also, follow park rules on food storage when in bear country. Photographers should always keep a safe distance when taking pictures of wildlife -- the best photos are shot with a telephoto lens.
It's equally important for your safety to know your limitations, to understand the environment, and to take the proper equipment when exploring the park. Always stop at the visitor center before you set out on a hike. Park staff there can offer advice on your hiking plans and supply you with pamphlets, maps, and information on weather conditions or any dangers, such as bear activity or flash flood possibilities on canyon hikes. Once out on the trail, hikers should always carry sufficient water and, just as important, remember to drink it. Wear sturdy shoes with good ankle support and rock-gripping soles. Keep a close eye on children in your group, and never let them run ahead (especially in bear or mountain lion country).
Since many park visitors live at or near sea level, one of the most common health hazards is altitude sickness, caused by the high elevations of many of the parks in this guide. Symptoms include headache, fatigue, nausea, loss of appetite, muscle pain, and lightheadedness. Doctors recommend that until you are acclimated -- which can take several days -- you should consume light meals and drink lots of liquids, avoiding those with caffeine or alcohol. It's a good idea to take frequent sips of water as well.
One proven method of minimizing the effects of high altitudes is to work up to them. For instance, on a visit to southern Utah, go to lower-elevation Zion National Park for a day or two before heading to the higher mountains of Bryce Canyon. Those concerned about altitude sickness might also consult with their doctors before leaving home; there are drugs that can be taken beforehand that may minimize the risk.
A waterborne hazard is Giardia, a parasite that wreaks havoc on the human digestive system. If you pick up this pesky hanger-on, it may accompany you on your trip home. The best solution is to carry all the water you'll need (usually a gallon a day). If you need additional water from the parks' lakes and streams, it should be boiled for 3 to 6 minutes before consumption.
Health experts also warn outdoor enthusiasts to take precautions against hantavirus, a rare but often fatal respiratory disease, first recognized in 1993. About half of the country's confirmed cases have been reported in the Four Corners states of Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, and Utah. The droppings and urine of rodents usually spread the disease, and health officials recommend that campers and hikers avoid areas with signs of rodent occupation. Symptoms of hantavirus are similar to flu, and lead to breathing difficulties and shock.
Hiking Tips
Don't venture off on any extensive hike, even a day hike, without the following gear: a compass, a topographical map, bug repellent, a whistle, a watch, and sufficient water. In many western parks, sunglasses, sunscreen, and wide-brimmed hats are also considered essential. To be on the safe side, you should keep a first-aid kit in your car or luggage and have it handy when hiking. At a minimum, it should contain butterfly bandages, sterile gauze pads, adhesive tape, antibiotic ointment, pain relievers, alcohol pads, and a knife with scissors and tweezers (tweezers are especially useful for removing those nasty little cactus spines that seem to attack from the side of the trail). In many national parks, cellphone service is spotty or nonexistent, so don't depend on being able to call for help in an emergency unless you have a satellite phone (which is rather expensive to own but can be rented for your stay in a remote area).
When to Go
It's not easy to commune with nature when you're surrounded by hordes of fellow visitors. For each park, we discuss the best times of year to go and listed certain areas, trails, and sites that are less visited than others. For specific information (such as a breakdown of the number of visitors to a particular park by the month), you can find park-use statistics at www.nature.nps.gov/stats. Beyond that, here are a few general guidelines.
- Avoid the high season. For most parks in the West, this means July and August, but anytime schools are not in session, parks are crowded with families. Spring and fall in many of these national parks offer mild weather, vibrant plant and animal life, and relatively empty trails and roads. The exception (at least, regarding crowds) is college spring break, which is usually in March or April. Some parks, such as Big Bend, get extremely crowded at that time.
- Walk away if you find yourself in a crowd. It sounds simple, but often when a scenic overlook is crowded, you'll find an equally good view in a completely empty spot just a short stretch down the road or trail.
- Visit popular attractions at off-peak hours, especially early in the morning or late in the afternoon. You'll be surprised at how empty the park is before 9 or 10am. Dawn and dusk are also generally the best times to see wildlife. Eat at off-peak hours -- try lunch at 11am and dinner at 4pm. Campers using public showers will often find them jammed first thing in the morning and just before bedtime, but deserted the rest of the day.
- Don't forget winter. You may not see wildflowers, and some roads and areas may be closed, but many national parks are wonderful places to ski, snowshoe, snowmobile, or just admire the snowy landscape.
- Remember that some parks are rarely crowded, and we've made a special effort to include information about them in this guide. Generally, the more difficult a park is to get to, the fewer people you'll encounter. And many of the smaller parks remain essentially undiscovered while offering scenery and recreation opportunities that rival or even surpass the big-names. Consider parks such as Great Basin, as well as one of America's newest national parks, Black Canyon of the Gunnison.
Protecting the Environment
Not long ago, the rule of thumb was to "leave only footprints"; these days, we're trying to do better and not leave even footprints. It's relatively easy to be a good outdoor citizen -- just use common sense. Pack out all trash; stay on designated trails; be especially careful not to pollute water; don't disturb plants, wildlife, or archaeological resources; don't pick flowers or collect rocks; and, in general, do your best to have as little impact on the environment as possible. Some hikers go further, carrying a small trash bag to pick up what others may have left. As the Park Service likes to remind us, protecting our national parks is everyone's responsibility.