In Three Weeks in US National Parks

The Grand Circle

Southern Utah has five delightful national parks and several national monuments; the North Rim of the spectacular Grand Canyon is just over the border in Arizona, and perched along the state line is the awe-inspiring Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park. Together they form a somewhat circuitous loop. This jaunt begins and ends in Las Vegas, Nevada, which is accessible by almost all major airlines and has car and RV rentals. You can complete this tour in 2 weeks, but it is much more satisfying in 3 weeks, as described here.

Day 1: Las Vegas, NV

Fly in, pick up your rental car or RV, lay in some supplies, and maybe try the slot machines for a half-hour or so. Then hit the road and head northeast into the mountains of southern Utah.

Days 2-4: Zion National Park, UT

Famous for its mammoth natural stone sculptures and unbelievably narrow slot canyon, this park begs to be explored on foot. Hop on the shuttle bus that runs the length of the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, getting off to take trails. We especially recommend the easy Riverside Walk, which follows the Virgin River through a narrow canyon past hanging gardens, as well as the Emerald Pools Trail. Especially pleasant on hot days, this walk through a forest of oak, maple, fir, and cottonwood trees leads to a waterfall, a hanging garden, and a shimmering pool.

Days 5-6: Grand Canyon National Park's North Rim, AZ

The North Rim of the Grand Canyon receives far fewer visitors than the South Rim, but that doesn't mean it's any less spectacular. The North Rim (which is open in summer only) provides views of and access to the same overpowering canyon as the South Rim does, just from the other side. You'll want to stop at the Grand Canyon Lodge, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, and then hike a few of the rim trails. If you're in good enough physical shape, you might want to hike partway down into the canyon on the North Kaibab Trail.

Days 7-8: Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, UT

Although not a national park, this Navajo Tribal Park is well worth a stop (and it's on your way). Monument Valley is, to many of us, the epitome of the Old West -- we've seen it dozens of times in movies and on television. On the Utah/Arizona border, and part of the vast Navajo Nation, the park has a 17-mile self-guided loop road that lets you see most of the major scenic attractions, or you can get a personalized tour with a Navajo guide. Either way, you'll see classic Western scenery made famous in movies such as 1939's Stagecoach, the film that started John Wayne on the road to stardom. Note: Federal passes, such as the America the Beautiful pass, are not valid here.

Days 9-12: Arches & Canyonlands National Parks, UT

Famed for its massive red and orange rock formations, this area is home to two national parks and the lively town of Moab. Canyonlands National Park is a great hikers' park. Make sure you stop at the Grand Viewpoint Overlook, in the Island in the Sky District, and hike the Grand View Trail, especially scenic in the late afternoon. Arches National Park is a bit more user-friendly, but also more crowded. Take the scenic drive and walk a few trails -- on the Devils Garden Trail, you can see more than a dozen arches, including picturesque Landscape Arch.

Days 13-14: Capitol Reef National Park, UT

Relatively unknown, this park offers brilliantly colored rock formations and a bit of history. The Fremont River created a lush oasis in this otherwise barren land, and 19th-century pioneers found the soil so fertile that they established the community of Fruita, named for the orchards they planted. Today you can explore the buildings and even pick fruit in season. Hikers can examine Pioneer Register, a rock wall where traveling pioneers "signed in," and explore canyons where famed outlaw Butch Cassidy is said to have hidden out between train and bank robberies.

Days 15-18: Scenic Utah 12 & Bryce Canyon National Park, UT

From Capitol Reef, go south on Utah 12 over Boulder Mountain and through Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, possibly stopping for a short hike to Calf Creek Falls, before heading to Bryce Canyon National Park. Spend the night in the park or nearby so you can be on the rim of Bryce Amphitheater at sunrise, the best time to see the colorful and often whimsically shaped rock formations called hoodoos. Top hikes here include the colorful Queen's Garden Trail, named for a formation that resembles Britain's Queen Victoria.

Days 19-20: Cedar Breaks National Monument, UT

This small, high-altitude park has an amphitheater reminiscent of Bryce Canyon's, as well as a 5-mile road that offers easy access to the monument's scenic overlooks and trail heads. Hike Spectra Point Trail along the rim for changing views of the colorful rock formations. The trail also takes you through fields of wildflowers, which are especially colorful in late July and August, and past bristlecone pines that are more than 1,500 years old.

Day 21: Back to Las Vegas, NV

Back in Sin City, you can catch a show or feed the one-armed bandits before flying home.