Planning a trip to Ustica
Getting There -- Hydrofoils and ferries operate daily from Palermo's Stazione Maríttima to Ustica. The ferry is the cheapest and slowest transport, costing 14€ each way and taking 2 1/2 hours. The hydrofoil, at a cost of 21€ does it in half the time. For tickets for either transport, go to Siremar (tel. 892123; www.siremar.it), at Via Francesco Crispi 118 in Palermo (tel. 091-336632), and on Piazza Bartolo in Ustica (tel. 091-8449002). Hydrofoil service runs from April to December; ferries run year-round, but not on Sundays in winter.
Visitor Information -- The tourist office has closed because of financial reasons. However, you can visit the headquarters of Parco Marino Regionale, on the main square of town (tel. 091-8449456). The staff here can provide information about the marine park. Hours are daily 8am to 8pm.
Getting Around
Arrival from Palermo is at Ustica village, the only port and home to 90% of the islanders. The heart of the village is reached by climbing a flight of steps from the harbor. You'll emerge onto the main square of town -- actually a trio of interlocking squares that include the piazzas of Bartolo, Umberto I, and Vito Longo. I recommend that you take care of any shopping needs before you leave Palermo; otherwise, you'll have to buy it here, as whatever Ustica has to offer is found in this area.
Once you arrive, you can always do as the locals do and rely on your trusty feet. Otherwise, take one of the orange minibuses that circumnavigate the island, hugging the coastline. These leave from the center of Ustica village daily on the hour. Figure on 2 1/2 hours for the entire bus ride around the island; a ticket between any two points along the route costs 1€.
Summer boat excursions are run by local fishermen who not only know the most scenic beauty spots, but also will allow you time out for swimming during an island trip. Hotel Ariston, Via della Vittoria 5 (tel. 091-8449042), organizes sightseeing boat trips, rents boats to scuba divers, and hires out motorcycles. Its three-seater boats cost 50€ a day, gasoline not included. A boat trip around the island, which lets you see the caves and stop at secluded spots for swimming, lasts 2 1/2 hours and costs 20€. If you'd like to tour on your own -- expect rough roads -- it costs 29€ to 40€ a day to hire a motorcycle, with gas and two helmets included.
Scuba divers can go to Ailara Rosalia, Banchina Barresi (tel. 091-8449605), which rents boats for 70€ a day. You should bring your own diving gear, however.
