Planning a trip to Utah

When to Go

Deciding when to visit Utah depends on what you want to do and which places you want to see. Those traveling without children will likely want to avoid visiting during school vacations. Ski resorts are most popular during the Christmas-New Year's holidays, and national parks are inundated with visitors in July and August. The best time to visit the parks and almost everything else in southern Utah is spring or fall; summer is too hot, particularly in St. George.

Utah has four seasons, but because of the wide range of elevation -- from 2,200 to 13,528 feet -- conditions vary considerably across the state. Generally, as in other desert states, summer days are hot but nights are cool. Winters are cold and snowy, except in southwest Utah's "Dixie" (which includes St. George), where it seldom gets very cold and snow is rare. Mountain temperatures are always pleasantly cool and can be quite cold at night, even in summer.

Escorted & Package Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader. The price often includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

Despite the fact that escorted tours require big deposits and predetermine hotels, restaurants, and itineraries, many people derive security and peace of mind from the structure they offer. Escorted tours -- whether they're navigated by bus, motorcoach, train, or boat -- let travelers sit back and enjoy the trip without having to drive or worry about details. They take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle. They're particularly convenient for people with limited mobility, and they can be a great way to make new friends.

On the downside, you'll have little opportunity for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jampacked with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure -- plus they often focus on the heavily touristed sites, so you miss out on many a lesser-known gem.

Special-Interest Trips

City Sights Bus Tours, 3359 S. Main St., Ste. 804 (tel. 801/534-1001; www.saltlakecitytours.org), offers several tours of Salt Lake City and the surrounding area.

Among the well-respected national companies that offer tours to Utah's national parks and other destinations is Tauck Tours (tel. 800/788-7885; www.tauck.com).

A number of companies also offer specialized tours for outdoor-recreation enthusiasts.

Adventure & Wellness Trips

Utah is an ideal destination for an adventure- or wellness-oriented trip. The national parks are perfect for both, and the spas at Utah's numerous ski resorts and in and around St. George have deservedly earned a national reputation for excellence.

Volunteer & Working Trips

Home to several thousand cats, dogs, and other animals at any given time, Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, 5001 Angel Canyon Rd., Kanab, UT 84741 (tel. 435/644-2001; www.bestfriends.org), offers numerous opportunities for visitors to volunteer for a few hours or an entire vacation. Thousands of folks participate annually in such volunteer activities as feeding, walking, and cleaning up after the sanctuary's furred, feathered, and scaled residents.

Volunteer trail crews offer another great opportunity for visitors to lend a hand while visiting Utah. Many state and national parks and other recreation areas have programs for volunteer trail crews; contact a specific park or area for additional information.

Packages for the Independent Traveller

For value-conscious travelers, packages are often a smart way to go because they can save you a ton of money. Package tours are not the same thing as escorted tours. You'll be on your own, but in most cases, an air/land/hotel package to Utah will include airfare, hotel, and car rental -- and it'll cost you less than just the hotel alone if you booked it yourself.

You'll find an array of packages to Utah. Check out some of the big online travel agencies -- Expedia, Travelocity, and Orbitz -- which do a brisk business in packages. Remember to comparison shop among at least three different operators, and always compare apples to apples.

One good source of package deals is the airlines themselves. Most major airlines offer air/land/hotel packages, including American Airlines Vacations (tel. 800/321-2121; www.aavacations.com), Delta Vacations (tel. 800/221-6666; www.deltavacations.com), Continental Airlines Vacations (tel. 800/301-3800; www.covacations.com), and United Vacations (tel. 888/854-3899; www.unitedvacations.com).

Of course, don't forget to check hotel or resort websites for very desirable package deals, especially in the off season. No, these packages rarely include airfares, but they're packed with extra amenities (or a night free) if you book a block of vacation time, say, 5 or 7 days. These packages are often built around themes and often include meals, spa treatments, or excursions along with the lodging.

Getting Around

By Car

Most visitors to Utah travel the state in a car. In fact, in some areas, it's a necessity. Planes, trains, and buses do not cover many areas of the state.

Before you set out on a road trip, you might want to join the American Automobile Association (AAA; tel. 800/222-4357; www.csaa.com for Northern California, Nevada, and Utah information), which has hundreds of offices nationwide. The Salt Lake City office is located at 560 E. 500 South (tel. 800/541-9902 or 801/364-5615), and is open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 5:30pm. AAA also has offices in Ogden (tel. 801/476-1666), Orem (tel. 801/225-4801), St. George (tel. 435/656-3990), and several other locations. Members receive excellent road maps and emergency road service, and AAA will even help you plan an exact itinerary.

If you're visiting from abroad and plan to rent a car in the United States, keep in mind that foreign driver's licenses are usually recognized in the U.S., but you may want to consider obtaining an international driver's license.

By Plane

Some large airlines offer transatlantic or transpacific passengers special discount tickets under the name Visit USA, which allows mostly one-way travel from one U.S. destination to another at very low prices. Unavailable in the U.S., these discount tickets must be purchased abroad in conjunction with your international fare. This system is the easiest, fastest, cheapest way to see the country, but you'll likely still need a rental car after landing in Utah.

By Train

International visitors can buy a USA Rail Pass, good for 15, 30, or 45 days of unlimited travel on Amtrak (tel. 800/USA-RAIL [872-7245]; www.amtrak.com). The pass is available online or through many overseas travel agents. Visit Amtrak's website for the cost of travel within the western, eastern, or northwestern United States. Reservations are generally required and should be made as early as possible. Regional rail passes are also available.

By Bus

Greyhound (tel. 800/231-2222; www.greyhound.com) is the sole nationwide bus line. International visitors can obtain information about the Greyhound Discovery Pass. The pass, which offers unlimited travel and stopovers in the U.S. and Canada, can be obtained from foreign travel agents or through www.discoverypass.com.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Many Utah lodgings offer senior discounts, and more and more restaurants, attractions, and public transportation systems offer special rates as well. Mention the fact that you're a senior when you make your travel reservations.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on car rentals, hotel chains, and cruises. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

The U.S. National Park Service offers an America the Beautiful -- National Park and Federal Recreational Lands Pass -- Senior Pass (formerly the Golden Age Passport), which gives seniors 62 years or older lifetime entrance to all properties administered by the National Park Service -- national parks, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, and national wildlife refuges -- for a one-time processing fee of $10. The pass must be purchased in person at any NPS facility that charges an entrance fee. Besides free entry, the America the Beautiful Senior Pass also offers a 50% discount on some federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. For more information, go to www.nps.gov/fees_passes.htm.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (tel. 800/454-5768; www.elderhostel.org) arranges worldwide study programs for those age 55 and over.

Tips on Dining

Utah's restaurants are fairly diverse, although the emphasis remains squarely on steaks and other American standards at quite a few of them. Reservations are often not necessary, except in ski towns and other tourist destinations.

Besides restaurants, there are also "private clubs," which actually aren't private at all: They're essentially bars, and may be attached to restaurants. You can either go in as a guest of a member or buy a 2-week membership, usually for $5 or so. Private clubs can serve beginning at 10am Monday through Saturday and at noon on Sunday.

Staying Connected

Calling To & From Utah

Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. For calls within the United States and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

To make a direct call to the U.S. from outside of North America, first dial 001, followed by the area code, and phone number.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free. However, calls to area codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, "dating" services, and so on) can be very expensive -- usually a charge of 95¢ to $3 or more per minute, and they sometimes have minimum charges that can run as high as $15 or more.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0 then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For local directory assistance ("information"), dial 411; for long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code and 555-1212.

Cellphones

Just because your cellphone works at home doesn't mean it'll work everywhere in the U.S. (thanks to our nation's fragmented cellphone system). It's a good bet that your phone will work in major cities, but take a look at your wireless company's coverage map on its website before heading out; T-Mobile, Sprint, and Nextel are particularly weak in rural areas. If you need to stay in touch at a destination where you know your phone won't work, rent a phone that does from InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626; www.intouchusa.com) or a rental car location, but beware that you'll pay a premium for airtime.

If you're not from the U.S., you'll be appalled at the poor reach of our GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications) wireless network, which is used by much of the rest of the world. Your phone will probably work in most major U.S. cities; it definitely won't work in many rural areas. And you may or may not be able to send SMS (text messaging) home from some of Utah's most secluded corners, either.

Internet/Email

Without Your Own Computer -- Easy Internet access has arrived in Utah, with major tourist areas such as Moab and the ski resorts leading the way. You'll have more trouble in rural communities, although cybercafes are popping up even there, and most public libraries offer Internet access. Cybercafes can be found in the downtowns of most major cities in Utah.

Most major airports have Internet kiosks that provide basic Web access for a per-minute fee that's usually higher than cybercafe prices. Check out copy shops like FedEx Office, which offers computer stations with fully loaded software (as well as Wi-Fi).

With Your Own Computer -- Most hotels, resorts, airports, cafes, and retailers have installed Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity), becoming "hotspots" that offer free high-speed Wi-Fi access or charge a small fee for usage. Wi-Fi is even found in campgrounds, RV parks, and entire towns. Almost all laptops sold today have built-in wireless capability.

Online Traveler's Toolbox

Veteran travelers usually carry some essential items to make their trips easier. Following is a selection of handy online tools to bookmark and use.

• Salt Lake Tribune (www.sltrib.com)
• Utah Travel Council (www.utah.com)
• State of Utah (www.utah.gov)
• Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (www.lds.org)
• Airplane Food (www.airlinemeals.net)
• Airplane Seating (www.seatguru.com and www.airlinequality.com)
• Maps (www.mapquest.com)
• Time and Date (www.timeanddate.com)
• Visa ATM Locator (www.visa.com), MasterCard ATM Locator (www.mastercard.com)
• Weather (www.intellicast.com and www.weather.com)

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Utah is a conservative state, and most residents don't approve of homosexuality; in fact, many residents believe that it's a sin. However, Utahns also have a firm belief in personal freedom, and will generally grant gay and lesbian travelers the same treatment as any other travelers.

Kanab, a tourist hub in southwestern Utah, threw itself into the national spotlight early in 2006 when the city council unanimously passed a nonbinding resolution that endorses what it calls a "natural family," defines marriage between a man and woman as "ordained of God," and sees homes as "open to a full quiver of children." Critics say the resolution is anti-gay and critical of single people and even married couples who choose to not have children, while proponents say the purpose of the resolution is to affirm marriage and family and show that Kanab is a good, wholesome place to live. Arthur Frommer called for a boycott of Kanab, calling the resolution "homophobic."

The Utah Pride Center, 361 N. 300 West, in Salt Lake City (tel. 801/539-8800; www.glccu.com), is home to a community center, coffeehouse, and information center for gays and lesbians.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Virtually every air traveler entering the U.S. is required to show a passport. All persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda are required to present a valid passport. U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U. S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the Western Hemisphere will need to present government-issued proof of citizenship, such as a birth certificate, along with a government issued photo ID, such as a driver's license. A passport is not required for U.S. or Canadian citizens entering by land or sea, but you are highly encouraged to carry one.

See www.frommers.com/planning for information on how to obtain a passport. For other information, please contact the following agencies:

For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland -- Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh).

For Residents of New Zealand -- Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

The U.S. State Department has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the following countries to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. Citizens of Czech Republic, Estonia, Hungary, Latvia, Lithuania, Malta, Republic of Korea, and Slovakia are soon to be admitted to the VWP. (Note: This list was accurate at press time; for the most up-to-date list of countries in the VWP, consult http://travel.state.gov/visa.) Even though a visa isn't necessary, in an effort to help U.S. officials check travelers against terror watch lists before they arrive at U.S. borders, visitors from VWP countries must register online through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) before boarding a plane or a boat to the U.S. Travelers will complete an electronic application providing basic personal and travel eligibility information. The Department of Homeland Security recommends filling out the form at least 3 days before traveling. Authorizations will be valid for up to 2 years or until the traveler's passport expires, whichever comes first. Currently, there is no fee for the online application. Note: Any passport issued on or after October 26, 2006, by a VWP country must be an e-Passport for VWP travelers to be eligible to enter the U.S. without a visa. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder. If your passport doesn't have this feature, you can still travel without a visa if it is a valid passport issued before October 26, 2005, and includes a machine-readable zone, or between October 26, 2005, and October 25, 2006, and includes a digital photograph. For more information, go to http://travel.state.gov/visa. Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas; they will need to show passports (if traveling by air) and proof of residence, however.

Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the U.S., and (2) a tourist visa.

For information about U.S. visas go to http://travel.state.gov and click on "Visas." Or go to one of the following websites:

Australian citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the U.S. Embassy Canberra, Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6214-5600) or by checking the U.S. Diplomatic Mission's website at http://usembassy-australia.state.gov/consular.

British subjects can obtain up-to-date visa information by calling the U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (tel. 0891/200-290) or by visiting the "Visas to the U.S." section of the American Embassy London's website at www.usembassy.org.uk.

Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the Embassy of the USA Dublin, 42 Elgin Rd., Dublin 4, Ireland (tel. 353/1-668-8777; or by checking the "Visas to the U.S." section of the website at http://dublin.usembassy.gov.

Citizens of New Zealand can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the U.S. Embassy New Zealand, 29 Fitzherbert Terrace, Thorndon, Wellington (tel. 644/472-2068), or get the information directly from the website at http://wellington.usembassy.gov.

Customs

What You Can Bring into the U.S. -- Every visitor more than 21 years of age may bring in, free of duty, the following: (1) 1 liter of wine or hard liquor; (2) 200 cigarettes, 100 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and (3) $100 worth of gifts. These exemptions are offered to travelers who spend at least 72 hours in the United States and who have not claimed them within the preceding 6 months. It is forbidden to bring into the country almost any meat products (including canned, fresh, and dried meat products such as bouillon, soup mixes, and so on). Generally, condiments including vinegars, oils, spices, coffee, tea, and some cheeses and baked goods are permitted. Avoid rice products, as rice can often harbor insects. Bringing fruit and vegetables is not advised, though not prohibited. Customs will allow produce depending on where you got it and where you're going after you arrive in the U.S. International visitors may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs on entering or leaving, which includes filing form CM 4790. For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs (www.customs.gov).

What You Can Take Home from the U.S. -- For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, the Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States.

Getting There

By Plane

Utah's only major airport is Salt Lake City International Airport (tel. 800/595-2442 or 801/575-2400; www.slcairport.com), located just north of I-80 at exit 115, on the west side of the city. Its airport code is SLC.

An alternative for visitors planning to go to southern Utah is to fly into McCarran International Airport in Las Vegas, Nevada (tel. 702/261-5211; www.mccarran.com), which is only 120 miles southwest of St. George. Budget-conscious travelers should check airline and vehicle-rental prices at both airports to see which will provide the better deal for their particular circumstances.

By Car

About 80% of Utah's visitors arrive by car, in part because it's so easy: The state is accessed by I-80 from the west or east, I-70 from the east, I-15 and I-84 from the north, and I-15 from the southwest. Salt Lake City is 600 miles from Albuquerque, 500 miles from Denver, 430 miles from Las Vegas, and 650 miles from Phoenix. Keep in mind that there will be long distances between services when traveling in and around Utah.

International visitors should note that insurance and taxes are almost never included in quoted rental car rates in the U.S. Be sure to ask your rental agency about any additional fees. They can add a significant cost to your car rental. While the minimum age for driving in Utah is 16, many car-rental agencies will not rent a vehicle to anyone under 25 years of age; others have a minimum age of 21.

By Train

There are four Amtrak stations in Utah along the Chicago-to-Emeryville, California Zephyr line: Salt Lake City, Provo, Helper, and Green River. Call tel. 800/872-7245 or visit www.amtrak.com for details. In state, Trax runs in metro Salt Lake City, and the FrontRunner train connects Salt Lake and Ogden. Call tel. 888/743-3882 or visit www.rideuta.com for additional information.

Tips on Accommodations

Utah offers a variety of lodging options, from typical American chain motels to luxury hotels -- primarily in Salt Lake City, Park City, and Deer Valley -- plus delightful bed-and-breakfasts, rustic cabins, and pleasant and inexpensive mom-and-pop independent motels.

The chains here are the same ones you see everywhere else in America: Best Western, Comfort Inn, Days Inn, Embassy Suites, Hampton Inn, Hilton, Holiday Inn, Motel 6, Quality Inn, Sheraton, Sleep Inn, Super 8, Travelodge, and so on. They look about the same as those found elsewhere, and have the same levels of service. In most cases, their rooms are little more than boring boxes of various sizes, with beds and the appropriate plumbing and heating fixtures. If you're lucky, you'll get a decent view out the window. Since enjoying the magnificent indoors is probably not one of the main reasons you've come to Utah, these chains might be all that you require.

On the other hand, if you are exploring Temple Square and enjoying the numerous cultural offerings in Salt Lake City, the best choice for lodging would be the Inn at Temple Square. At Bryce Canyon National Park, go for one of the delightful Bryce Lodge cabins. And if you really want to be pampered after a hard day on the slopes, you can't beat the upscale properties at Park City and Deer Valley.

Another option is a B&B. Numerous bed-and-breakfasts are discussed throughout the book, and when you take into consideration the delicious breakfasts prepared at most of them, the rates are fairly reasonable. Why spend $90 for a boring motel room and then another $10 to $15 for breakfast when for just a bit more you can instead sleep in a handsome home, often uniquely decorated, and be served a delightful home-cooked breakfast?

Other lodging choices in Utah include cabins and a handful of small independent motels. Both are usually fairly inexpensive, although they often lack the facilities, such as pools, spas, exercise equipment, and so on, that you'll find in most chains. The cabins and independents are still preferable because they're often a very good value, and the rooms usually have at least some personality (can anybody actually describe the decor of the last Super 8 or Days Inn he or she stayed at?) -- and cabins, although sometimes a bit primitive, are often in beautiful settings.

In some areas, like the national parks, your options will be fairly limited: You can either camp, stay in one of the few in-park lodgings, or choose from one of the lodgings in a gateway town. You can save some money at Utah's numerous ski resorts by staying in a nearby town and taking a bus (often a free shuttle to the slopes). The accommodations in Salt Lake City are very reasonable, even in peak ski season, when the room rates at Snowbird and Park City go through the roof. The rates drop precipitously in the winter in southern Utah, and there are many nice days to be had in the national parks when the crowds are sparser and the weather mild.

For camping throughout Utah, you can make reservations through either Utah State Parks (tel. 800/322-3770; http://stateparks.utah.gov or www.stateparks.utah.gov) or the National Parks Reservation Service (tel. 877/444-6777; www.recreation.gov), depending on the park or recreation area. Keep in mind, however, that some campsites operate on a first-come, first-served basis.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

The perpetual debate continues throughout Utah: natural gas drilling and mineral extraction versus recreation and conservation. Most recently, the Bush administration opened up parcels of federal land near Canyonlands National Park for bidding to natural gas exploration in 2008; the move was condemned and quickly reversed after the Obama administration took over. Likewise, Escalante has been the center of the development-vs.-ecological-preservation debate in Utah since President Bill Clinton made it a national monument in 2000. Locals decried the move, saying it would wreck the economy, but the increased tourism has them singing a different tune today.

Generally speaking, the Wasatch Mountain Club, 1390 S. 1100 East, Ste. 103, Salt Lake City, UT 84105-2443 (tel. 801/463-9842; www.wasatchmountainclub.org), can offer a number of resources to eco-minded visitors to the Beehive State. Many hotels and resorts in Utah have initiated green initiatives, ranging from cutting down on laundry to installing solar panels, in recent years.

But perhaps the best way to experience sustainability is by connecting with Utah's wild soul on a trek along the state's myriad hiking trails or a camp-out in one of its many campgrounds. To lessen your impact further, go off the grid on an overnight backpacking trip. Leave No Trace (www.lnt.org) is an educational nonprofit that expands on the backpacker's credo to leave any campsite in the same condition -- or better -- than when one found it. Backpacking is a refreshing counterpoint to modern life that will give perspective on the issues of sustainability and personal energy dependence.

General Resources for Green Travel

In addition to the resources for Utah listed above, the following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel. For a list of even more sustainable resources, as well as tips and explanations on how to travel greener, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

• In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO) (www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.
• In Canada, www.greenlivingonline.com offers extensive content on how to travel sustainably, including a travel and transport section and profiles of the best green shops and services in Toronto, Vancouver, and Calgary.
• Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Carbon Neutral (www.carbonneutral.org) provide info on "carbon offsetting," or offsetting the greenhouse gas emitted during flights.
• Greenhotels (www.greenhotels.com) recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company's stringent environmental requirements. Environmentally Friendly Hotels (www.environmentallyfriendlyhotels.com) offers more green accommodations ratings.
• Sustain Lane (www.sustainlane.com) lists sustainable eating and drinking choices around the U.S.; also visit www.eatwellguide.org for tips on eating sustainably in the U.S. and Canada.
• For information on animal-friendly issues throughout the world, visit Tread Lightly (www.treadlightly.org).
• Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a list of questions to help you determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program. For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org.

Tips for Travelers with Pets

Many of us wouldn't dream of going on vacation without our pets. Under the right circumstances, it can be a wonderful experience for both you and your animals. Dogs and cats are accepted at many motels in Utah, but not as universally in resorts or more expensive hotels. This book consistently notes those lodgings that take pets. Some properties require you to pay a fee or damage deposit, and most insist they be notified at check-in that you have a pet. All Motel 6 motels accept pets; the chain has a number of locations throughout Utah.

An excellent resource is www.petswelcome.com, which dispenses medical tips, names of animal-friendly lodgings and campgrounds, and lists of kennels and veterinarians. Other good websites are www.pettravel.com and www.travelpets.com.

Be aware that national parks and monuments and other federal lands administered by the National Park Service are not pet-friendly. Dogs are usually prohibited on hiking trails, must always be leashed, and in some cases cannot be taken more than 100 feet from established roads. On the other hand, U.S. Forest Service and BLM areas, as well as practically all of Utah's state parks, are pro-pet, allowing dogs on trails and just about everywhere except inside buildings.

Aside from regulations, however, it's important to be attentive to your pet's well-being. Just as people need extra water in Utah's hot, dry climate, so do pets. Try those clever nonspill travel water bowls sold in pet stores. And keep in mind that, particularly in southern Utah's red-rock country, trails are rough, and jagged rocks can cut the pads on your dog's feet. It's a good idea to carry tweezers to remove cactus spines. Remember, too, that dogs, who usually spend most of their time sleeping, aren't used to 10-hour hikes up mountainsides. More than one exhausted pooch has had to be carried back to camp by its owner.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- The area code is 801 in the Wasatch Valley, which includes Salt Lake City, Provo, and Ogden. Most of the rest of the state is in the 435 area code.

Automobile Organizations -- Motor clubs will supply maps, suggested routes, guidebooks, accident and bail-bond insurance, and emergency road service. The American Automobile Association (AAA) is the major auto club in the United States. If you belong to a motor club in your home country, inquire about AAA reciprocity before you leave. You may be able to join AAA even if you're not a member of a reciprocal club; to inquire, call AAA (tel. 800/222-4357; www.aaa.com). AAA has a nationwide emergency road service telephone number (tel. 800/AAA-HELP [4357]).

Business Hours -- Banks are usually open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm, often until 6pm on Friday; some have hours on Saturday. Small stores are usually open Monday through Saturday, with some also open on Sunday afternoon. Most department stores, discount stores, and supermarkets are open daily until 9pm. Some supermarkets are open 24 hours a day.

Drinking Laws -- Utah normalized its liquor laws in 2009; memberships are no longer required, and private clubs are a thing of the past. There are still two strengths of beer, 3.2% and 6%. You can buy 3.2% beer (read on if you're not sure what that means) and malt coolers in supermarkets and convenience stores 7 days a week; stronger beer, wine, and hard liquor are available only at state-owned liquor stores and package agencies, which are closed Sundays and state holidays. Some establishments are licensed as taverns and can sell 3.2% beer only.

The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 21; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it's always a good idea to bring along an ID when you go out.

Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn't zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot. Don't even think about driving while intoxicated.

Electricity -- Like Canada, the United States uses 110-120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220-240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you.

Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies are located in the nation's capital, Washington, D.C. Some consulates are located in major U.S. cities, and most nations have a mission to the United Nations in New York City. If your country isn't listed below, call for directory information in Washington, D.C. (tel. 202/555-1212) or check www.embassy.org/embassies.

The embassy of Australia is at 1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036 (tel. 202/797-3000; usa.embassy.gov/au).

The embassy of Canada is at 501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001 (tel. 202/682-1740; www.canadianembassy.org). Other Canadian consulates are in Buffalo (New York), Detroit, Los Angeles, New York, and Seattle.

The embassy of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/462-3939; www.irelandemb.org). Irish consulates are in Boston, Chicago, New York, San Francisco, and other cities.

The embassy of New Zealand is at 37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/328-4800; www.nzembassy.com). New Zealand consulates are in Los Angeles, Salt Lake City, San Francisco, and Seattle.

The embassy of the United Kingdom is at 3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/588-7800; www.britainusa.com). Other British consulates are in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Cleveland, Houston, Los Angeles, New York, San Francisco, and Seattle.

Emergencies -- Call tel. 911.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- A gallon of unleaded gasoline cost between $2.50 and $3 at press time. Taxes are already included in the printed price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons.

Holidays -- Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year's Day), the third Monday in January (Martin Luther King, Jr., Day), the third Monday in February (Presidents' Day), the last Monday in May (Memorial Day), July 4 (Independence Day), the first Monday in September (Labor Day), the second Monday in October (Columbus Day), November 11 (Veterans Day/Armistice Day), the fourth Thursday in November (Thanksgiving Day), and December 25 (Christmas). The Tuesday after the first Monday in November is Election Day, a federal government holiday in presidential-election years (held every 4 years, and next in 2012).

Internet Access -- In Salt Lake City, Provo, Ogden, and Utah's major resorts, Wi-Fi is commonplace. It's generally not difficult to access the Internet in any urban area, but may be a little harder to find in some of the state's less populated areas.

Legal Aid -- If you are "pulled over" for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail, or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. Here the burden is on the state to prove a person's guilt beyond a reasonable doubt, and everyone has the right to remain silent, whether he or she is suspected of a crime or actually arrested. Once arrested, a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice. International visitors should call your embassy or consulate.

Mail -- At press time, domestic postage rates were 28¢ for a postcard and 44¢ for a letter. For international mail, a first-class letter of up to 1 ounce costs 98¢ (75¢ to Canada and 79¢ to Mexico); a first-class postcard costs the same as a letter. For more information, go to www.usps.com.

If you aren't sure what your address will be in the United States, mail can be sent to you, in your name, c/o General Delivery at the main post office of the city or region where you expect to be. (Call tel. 800/275-8777 for information on the nearest post office.) The addressee must pick up mail in person and must produce proof of identity (driver's license, passport, and so on). Most post offices will hold your mail for up to 1 month, and are open Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm, and Saturday from 9am to 3pm.

Always include zip codes when mailing items in the U.S. If you don't know your zip code, visit www.usps.com/zip4.

Newspapers & Magazines -- The state's two largest dailies, both published in Salt Lake City, are the Salt Lake City Tribune (www.sltrib.com) and the Deseret Morning News (www.desnews.com). The Salt Lake City Weekly (www.slweekly.com) is the alternative weekly. Several other communities have daily newspapers, and many smaller towns publish weeklies. About a dozen Utah newspapers can be found online, with links from the Internet Public Library site, www.ipl.org. There are a few local magazines, Salt Lake Magazine (www.saltlakemagazine.com) among them.

Police -- Call tel. 911 for emergency police help.

Smoking -- The Utah Indoor Clean Air Act prohibits smoking in any public building or office and in all enclosed places of public access. This includes restaurants but not private clubs, lounges, or taverns.

Taxes -- A combination of state and local sales taxes, from 6% to 8.5%, is added to your bill in all areas of Utah except Indian reservations. Local lodging taxes usually add an additional 3% to 6%. The United States has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level. Every state, county, and city may levy its own local tax on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant checks and airline tickets. These taxes will not appear on price tags.

Time -- Utah is in the Mountain Standard Time Zone. The continental United States is divided into four time zones: Eastern Standard Time (EST), Central Standard Time (CST), Mountain Standard Time (MST), and Pacific Standard Time (PST). Alaska and Hawaii have their own zones. For example, when it's 9am in Los Angeles (PST), it's 7am in Honolulu (HST), 10am in Denver (MST), 11am in Chicago (CST), noon in New York City (EST), 5pm in London (GMT), and 2am the next day in Sydney.

Daylight saving time is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November, except in Arizona, Hawaii, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time.

Tipping -- In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you've left a disaster area for him or her to clean up). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 each time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff and bartenders 15% to 20% of the check, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $1 per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip cabdrivers 15% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.

Toilets -- You won't find public toilets or "restrooms" on the streets in most U.S. cities, but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the best bet for clean facilities. Restaurants and bars in resorts or heavily visited areas may reserve their restrooms for patrons.

Visitor Information -- For information on the state as a whole, as well as an official state map, contact the Utah Office of Tourism, 300 N. State St., Salt Lake City, UT 84114 (tel. 800/200-1160 or 801/538-1030; www.utah.com).

For information on Utah's national forests, contact the U.S. Forest Service Intermountain Region, 324 25th St., Ogden, UT 84401 (tel. 801/625-5306; www.fs.fed.us/r4). The best source for topographic and geological maps, as well as guidebooks and other outdoor recreation information, is the Natural Resources Map & Bookstore, 1594 W. North Temple (P.O. Box 146100), Salt Lake City, UT 84116-6100 (tel. 888/882-4627 or 801/537-3320; www.mapstore.state.ut.us). The Utah State Office of the U.S. Bureau of Land Management (BLM) is at 440 W. 200 South, Ste. 500, Salt Lake City, UT 84145 (tel. 801/539-4001; www.ut.blm.gov). For information on Utah's state parks, contact Utah State Parks, 1594 W. North Temple, Salt Lake City, UT 84114 (tel. 800/322-3770 or 801/538-7220 for campground reservations; www.stateparks.utah.gov). You can find additional resources for planning your outdoor adventures in chapter 5.

Health & Insurance

Utah's extremes -- from burning desert to snow-covered mountains -- can cause health problems for the ill-prepared. If you haven't been to the desert before, the heat, dryness, and intensity of the sun can be difficult to imagine. Bring a hat, strong sunblock, sunglasses with ultraviolet protection, and moisturizing lotion for dry skin. Hikers and others planning to be outdoors should carry water -- at least a gallon per person, per day.

Another potential problem for short-term visitors is elevation. There's less oxygen and lower humidity in Utah's mountains, which rise to over 13,500 feet. If you have heart or respiratory problems, consult your doctor before planning a trip to the mountains. Even if you're in generally good health, you may want to ease into high elevations by changing altitude gradually. Don't fly in from sea level in the morning and plan to hike 10,000-foot Cedar Breaks National Monument that afternoon. Spend a day or two at 4,000- or 5,000-feet elevation to let your body adjust. Also, get lots of rest, avoid large meals, and drink plenty of nonalcoholic fluids, especially water.

State health officials warn outdoor enthusiasts to take precautions against the hantavirus, a rare but often fatal respiratory disease first recognized in 1993. About half of the country's 200-plus confirmed cases have been reported in the Four Corners states of Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, and Utah, and about 45% of the cases have been fatal. The disease is usually spread by the urine, feces, and saliva of deer mice and other rodents, so health officials recommend that campers avoid areas with signs of rodent droppings. Symptoms of hantavirus are similar to flu, and lead to breathing difficulties and shock.

General Availability of Healthcare -- Most cities in Utah have hospitals with 24-hour emergency rooms, but the smaller towns and less populated regions often have little in the way of healthcare. It is best to find out where the nearest medical facilities are to your specific destination.

Common Ailments

Altitude Sickness -- For many people who live at or near sea level, the most common health issue is discomfort caused by Utah's high elevations. Altitude sickness is a process that can take a day or more to dissipate. Symptoms include headache, fatigue, nausea, loss of appetite, muscle pain, and lightheadedness. Doctors recommend that, until acclimated, travelers should avoid heavy exertion, consume light meals, and drink lots of liquids, avoiding those with caffeine or alcohol.

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- Rattlesnakes, hobo spiders, and wood ticks are native to Utah, and each can inflict a nasty bite, the former two being venomous and the latter carrying a number of diseases. If you experience pain or swelling after a hike or camping, it could be a bug bite. Anti-itch cream will help diminish the itch, but time is the best medication -- unless of course, the symptoms are dramatic, in which case you should seek medical attention or call tel. 911 immediately. While hiking or camping, insect repellent is always a good idea.

Respiratory Illnesses -- Air quality can be an issue on the Wasatch Front, where numerous cities have struggled to meet federal standards for various pollutants. For the daily air quality report, visit www.airquality.utah.gov.

Sun/Elements/Extreme Weather Exposure -- In the desert area, extreme heat is common; wintertime in the Rockies can bring freezing temperatures and powerful blizzards. Depending on the time of year and your destination, it is best to be prepared with plenty of water and a wide range of layers for clothing. Symptoms of sunstroke include dizziness, clouded vision, and fainting. The best cure is shade, rest, and plenty of water. Seek medical attention if symptoms are dramatic.

Waterborne Illnesses -- Two waterborne hazards are Giardia and Campylobacter, with symptoms that wreak havoc on the human digestive system. If you pick up these pesky bugs, they might accompany you on your trip home. Untreated water from lakes and streams should be boiled for at least 5 minutes before consumption or pumped through a fine-mesh water filter specifically designed to remove bacteria.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

Salt Lake City has the state's most comprehensive medical facilities, including LDS Hospital, 8th Avenue and C Street (tel. 801/408-1100; www.ldshospital.com), and Salt Lake Regional Medical Center, 1050 E. South Temple (tel. 801/350-4111; www.saltlakeregional.com); both have 24-hour emergency rooms. Many of the national parks have clinics. For emergencies, dial [tel[ 911.

International visitors should contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883, or in Canada 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the region you're visiting. The United States' Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards and offers tips on food safety. The website www.tripprep.com, sponsored by a consortium of travel-medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice.

Safety

Utah in general is a very safe vacation destination. Car accidents are more of a problem than crime in almost every corner of the state, and the biggest safety concerns apply largely to backpackers, skiers, rock climbers, and other adventurous types. As in any city, it's important to remain aware of one's surroundings in downtown Salt Lake City; South State Street is often highlighted as the most unsavory strip in all of Utah. In the backcountry of the state's numerous parks and forests, it's important to always carry plenty of water, a map, and a compass, and to let someone know of your plans in case something goes awry.

As you head into the great outdoors, also bear in mind that injuries often occur when people fail to follow instructions. Take heed when the experts tell you to stay on established ski trails, hike only in designated areas and carry rain gear, and wear a life jacket when rafting. Mountain weather can be fickle, and many beautiful spots are in remote areas. Be prepared for sudden changes in temperature at any time of year, and watch out for summer afternoon thunderstorms that can leave you drenched and shivering in minutes.

When visiting such historic sites as ghost towns, gold mines, and railroads, remember that they were likely built more than 100 years ago, when safety standards were extremely lax, if they existed at all. Never enter abandoned buildings, mines, or rail cars on your own. When touring historic attractions, use common sense and don't be afraid to ask questions.

Walkways in mines are often uneven, poorly lit, and sometimes slippery due to seeping groundwater that can stain your clothing with its high iron content. In old buildings, be prepared for steep, narrow stairways, creaky floors, and low ceilings and doorways. Steam trains are wonderful as long as you remember that steam is very hot; oil and grease can ruin your clothing; and, at the very least, soot will make you very dirty.

Crime is relatively low in Utah in general and especially the parks, but Salt Lake City and the other cities have their share of incidents. Always keep a close eye on your wallet or purse and keep your wits about you when exploring unfamiliar neighborhoods.

While most Utahns are tolerant people, the Mormon Church has been criticized in the past for racism, sexism, and homophobia. Recent church initiatives have demonstrated more progressive attitudes, and the mass immigration of non-Mormons from other states has weakened the church's power. However, the state remains one of the least diverse in the United States, and strains of intolerance remain.

Travel Insurance

Check your existing insurance policies and credit card coverage before you buy travel insurance. You may already be covered for lost luggage, canceled tickets, and/or medical expenses.

The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com (tel. 800/487-4722). Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information for prices from more than a dozen companies.

Trip-Cancellation Insurance -- Trip-cancellation insurance helps you get your money back if you have to back out of a trip, if you have to go home early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Permissible reasons for cancellation can range from sickness to natural disasters to the State Department declaring your destination unsafe for travel.

For information, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 800/284-8300; www.accessamerica.com), Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com), Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com), or Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 888/228-9792; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Medical Insurance -- For travel overseas, most health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront and reimburse you only after you return home. As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance, particularly if you're traveling to a remote or high-risk area where emergency evacuation is a possible scenario. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 800/732-5309; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com).

Lost-Luggage Insurance -- On flights within the U.S., checked baggage is covered up to $3,300 per ticketed passenger. On international flights (including U.S. portions of international trips), baggage coverage is limited to approximately $9.07 per pound, up to approximately $635 per checked bag. If you plan to check items more valuable than the standard liability, see if your homeowner's policy covers your valuables, get baggage insurance as part of your comprehensive travel-insurance package, or buy Travel Guard's "BagTrak" product. If your luggage is lost, immediately file a lost-luggage claim at the airport, detailing the luggage contents. Most airlines require that you report delayed, damaged, or lost baggage within 4 hours of arrival. The airlines are required to deliver luggage, once found, directly to your house or destination free of charge.

Calendar of Events

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

Freestyle World Cup Ski Races, Deer Valley. This event is made up of sanctioned World Cup races and demonstrations. The location: the Champion and White Owl ski runs on Deer Valley's 2002 Olympic runs. Call tel. 435/649-1000. Mid-January.

Sundance Film Festival, Park City and other locations. Sponsored by Robert Redford's Sundance Resort, this festival honors the best independent films with screenings and seminars. Call tel. 801/924-0882 or visit http://festival.sundance.org well in advance (months, not weeks) for schedules and information on obtaining tickets. Late January.

February

Bryce Canyon Winter Festival, Bryce. This winter celebration, with snowshoe tours and other activities, takes place amid the colorful rock formations of the Bryce Canyon National Park area. Call tel. 435/834-5341. Mid-February.

March

Hostlers Model Railroad Festival, Ogden. Fans of model trains gather at historic Union Station, where trains of all shapes and sizes are on display; model-train collectors can locate those hard-to-find items. Call tel. 801/394-4952 or visit www.hostlers.info. Early March.

St. George Art Festival, St. George. This outdoor fine-arts festival draws artists and visitors from all over the American West. Call tel. 435/627-4500; otherwise visit www.sgcity.org/artfestival. Mid-March.

April

Easter Rendezvous, Ogden. A gathering of mountain men at Fort Buenaventura, with black-powder shooting contests and other early-19th-century activities. Call tel. 801/399-8099. Early to mid-April.

April Action Car Show, Moab. A grand display of vintage hot rods, classic cars, and more, plus a Saturday night cruise down Main Street and fun contests. Call tel. 800/635-6622 or visit www.moab-utah.com/aprilaction. Late April.

May

Golden Spike Reenactment, Golden Spike National Historic Site, Promontory. This reenactment commemorates the moment in 1869 when rail lines from the East and West coasts were joined, linking the nation. A must for historic-railroad buffs. Call tel. 435/471-2209 or check out www.nps.gov/gosp. May 10.

Great Salt Lake Bird Festival, Farmington. Birders from across the country flock to this festival, which takes place at the Davis County Fair Park, midway between Salt Lake City and Ogden. Call tel. 801/451-3286 or visit www.greatsaltlakebirdfest.com for more information. Mid-May.

June

Harmons Best Dam Bike Ride, Logan. More than 1,500 participants pedal miles along Cache Valley's back roads. The money raised goes to help in the battle against multiple sclerosis. Call tel. 801/424-0113. Mid-June.

Utah Shakespearean Festival, Cedar City. This professional theater festival produces several plays by William Shakespeare, plus a few contemporary offerings. Call tel. 800/752-9849 or check out www.bard.org. Late June through August.

July

Deer Valley Music Festival, Deer Valley. This festival presents a spectacular series of concerts in an equally incredible setting. Call tel. 801/553-6683 or visit www.deervalleymusicfestival.org for more information. July to August.

Snowbird Rock & Blues Festival, Snowbird. Big-name musicians make this one of Utah's premier music events. Call tel. 800/933-2222 or visit www.snowbirdrc.org. Late July.

August

Railroaders' Festival, Golden Spike National Historic Site. Reenactments of the Golden Spike ceremony, which united the nation by rail, plus a spike-driving contest, railroad handcar races, and a buffalo-chip-throwing contest. Call tel. 435/471-2209 or www.nps.gov/gosp. Early or mid-August.

September

Greek Festival, Salt Lake City. The music, dance, and food of Greece are featured, plus tours of the historic Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church. Call tel. 801/328-9681 or visit www.saltlakegreekfestival.com. Early September.

Moab Music Festival, Moab. Live classical, jazz, bluegrass, and other types of music are presented in a beautiful red-rock amphitheater and other locations. For more information, check out www.moabmusicfest.org or call tel. 435/259-7003. Early to mid-September.

Utah State Fair, Salt Lake City. This fair has live entertainment, a horse show, rodeo, livestock judging, arts and crafts exhibits, and typical state-fair fun. Visit www.utah-state-fair.com or call tel. 801/538-8400. Mid-September.

Oktoberfest, Snowbird. This is a traditional celebration, with German music, food, and, of course, beer. Call tel. 801/933-2110 or visit www.snowbird.com. Mid-September to mid-October.

October

Huntsman World Senior Games, St. George. This is an extremely popular Olympics-style competition for seniors, with a variety of athletic events. Call tel. 800/562-1268 or check out www.seniorgames.net. Mid-October.

Bison Roundup, Antelope Island State Park. Stop by the park and watch the annual bison roundup. Take binoculars and get a close-up view of the bison as they receive their annual medical exams. Call tel. 801/773-2941 or visit www.stateparks.utah.gov. Late October to early November.

November

Ogden Christmas Parade and Christmas Village, Ogden. A parade begins the Christmas season, and the municipal park is transformed into a Christmas village, with thousands of lights, music, and animated decorations. Call tel. 801/629-8253. Late November through December.

Temple Square Christmas Lights, Salt Lake City. A huge, spectacular display of Christmas lights adorns Temple Square. Call tel. 801/240-4872. From the Friday after Thanksgiving to January 1.

December

First Night New Year's Eve Celebration, Salt Lake City. This New Year's Eve party animates downtown Salt Lake City with arts and crafts, entertainment, storytelling, and other family-oriented activities, with a midnight fireworks display. Call tel. 801/359-5118 or visit www.firstnightslc.org. December 31.

Regions in Brief

You can easily split Utah into three distinct regions: the Colorado Plateau, in the southern half of the state, where all those fantastic rock formations are; Rocky Mountain Utah, with rugged peaks, stately pines, deep blue lakes, and most of the state's residents; and the Great Basin Desert, the big middle-of-nowhere where you've always wanted to send that cousin you never really liked.

Truth be told, though, certain sections of Utah do just have a whole lot of nothing. So this guide is organized by destination, based on where you probably will want to go.

Eighty percent of Utah's population lives in the Rocky Mountain region of the Wasatch Front, the 175-mile-long north-central section of the state from Logan to Provo. Salt Lake City is Utah's most populous city, as well as its most cosmopolitan. It's also the international headquarters of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints; Temple Square is Utah's most-visited attraction. Keep in mind that Salt Lake City is still a relatively small city and not as sophisticated or glitzy as New York or Los Angeles (that may be what makes it so likeable). One advantage Salt Lake City has over all other Western cities its size, as any real-estate agent will tell you, is its location; within an hour's drive is some of the best downhill skiing in the United States. Here also is that mystery of nature, the vast Great Salt Lake, eight times saltier than any of the world's oceans.

This brings you to the rest of the Wasatch Front. In this guide, the section that's roughly north of Salt Lake is designated the Northern Wasatch Front. Here you'll find historic Ogden; Logan, Utah's northernmost town of any size; the national historic site where the Central Pacific and Union Pacific railroads met in 1869; and four ski resorts. The mountains that offer skiing in winter also provide numerous opportunities for hiking, horseback riding, and biking in summer.

The areas east and south of Salt Lake City are designated in this guide as the Southern Wasatch Front. This region contains beautiful Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons, which have some of the state's best skiing, as well as great hiking and biking in the summer; Park City, Utah's premier ski-resort town -- and a delightful destination year-round -- with a historic Main Street dominated by intriguing shops and restaurants; some fun spots just outside of Park City, including a historic railroad, Strawberry Reservoir (a real gem of a lake), and several nice state parks; Robert Redford's Sundance Institute; and Provo, a small, conservative city that's home to Brigham Young University.

The western side of Utah, beginning west of Salt Lake City, is dominated by the vast, salty nothingness of the Great Basin Desert, which includes the pristinely white Bonneville Salt Flats, which are so flat that you can actually see the curvature of the earth. The Flats are also famous for the land speed records set on them. This is not the sort of place you want to go for a picnic -- it's hot, the water's undrinkable, and there's very little to see.

Northeastern Utah is home to two terrific recreational areas that creep into the adjoining states: Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area, which wanders into Wyoming, and nearby Dinosaur National Monument, which extends into Colorado. Both are what one might call "Undiscovered Utah," because they're really off the beaten path and not what most people imagine when they think of the state -- consider it well worth a visit.

The Colorado Plateau, which extends along the state's entire southern border and halfway up the east side, is where all five of Utah's national parks are located, and for good reason. Ancient geologic forces, erosion, oxidation, and other natural processes have carved spectacular rock sculptures -- delicate and intricate, bold and stately -- and painted them in a riot of color. This is quite likely why you've come to Utah in the first place, and these sections will help you spend your time wisely and enjoyably.

But the Colorado Plateau isn't just national parks. This area offers historic Mormon sites; live theater, dance, and music; as well as skiing and the state's best golf. If you're heading in from Las Vegas, St. George is the first Utah town you'll see.

Utah's best destination for watersports -- maybe the best in the West -- is Lake Powell and Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. A boating vacation here is the stuff that stressed-out big-city dreams are made of.

Finally, "The Four Corners Area" is in Utah's very southeast corner. Spectacular American Indian sites, such as Hovenweep National Monument, make a visit here truly worth the drive through the West's vast, empty spaces.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling, and those with disabilities should find Utah a generally easy place to get around. Many state and national parks have at least one wheelchair-accessible trail. Some historic buildings, however, are not wheelchair accessible -- check before going. The Utah information and referral line for people with disabilities is tel. 800/333-8824 or visit www.accessut.org.

The America the Beautiful -- National Park and Federal Recreational Lands Pass -- Access Pass (formerly the Golden Access Passport) gives visually impaired people and people with permanent disabilities (regardless of age) free lifetime entrance to federal recreation sites administered by the National Park Service, including the Fish and Wildlife Service, the Forest Service, the Bureau of Land Management, and the Bureau of Reclamation. This may include national parks, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, and national wildlife refuges.

The America the Beautiful Access Pass can be obtained only in person at any NPS facility that charges an entrance fee. You need to show proof of medically determined disability. Besides free entry, the pass also offers a 50% discount on some federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. For details, go to www.nps.gov/fees_passes.htm.

Organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS [2255-6677]; www.mossresourcenet.org); the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org); and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). AirAmbulanceCard.com is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) offers a comprehensive database on travel agents from around the world with experience in accessible travel; destination-specific access information; and links to such resources as service animals, equipment rentals, and access guides.

Amtrak will, with advance notice, provide porter service, special seating, and a discount (tel. 800/USA-RAIL [872-7245]; www.amtrak.com) for travelers with disabilities. If you're traveling with a companion, Greyhound will give your companion a 50% fare discount (tel. 800/231-2222 or 800/752-4841 for the Disabilities Travel Assistance Line; www.greyhound.com). Both Amtrak and Greyhound have scheduled stops in St. George, and Greyhound also stops in Cedar City.

Many of the major car-rental companies now offer hand-controlled cars for drivers with disabilities, and can provide those vehicles with advance notice. Wheelchair Getaways (tel. 800/642-2042; www.wheelchair-getaways.com) rents specialized vans with wheelchair lifts and other features for drivers and/or passengers with disabilities, with outlets in most of the southwestern states.

Tips for Families

If you have enough trouble getting your kids out of the house in the morning, dragging them thousands of miles away may seem like an insurmountable challenge. But family travel can be immensely rewarding, allowing you to see the world through the eyes of children.

Utah is a very family-friendly state, due in large part to the strong influence of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, which is totally family-oriented. Many tourist attractions offer family prices that are considerably lower than the per-person rate, and also frequently schedule family events. Throughout this book, you'll find numerous attractions, lodgings, and even restaurants that are especially well suited to kids.

Additionally, state and national parks are great places for family vacations, and the national parks usually have excellent children's programs (be sure to ask about Junior Ranger programs). The state's many ski resorts all have special programs for kids.

Recommended family travel websites include Family Travel Forum (www.familytravelforum.com), a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning; Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), an online magazine providing travel tips; and TravelWithYourKids.com, a comprehensive site written by parents for parents offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children.

An especially good resource for families planning national park vacations is Frommer's National Parks with Kids (Wiley Publishing, Inc.).