Hungry Valencianos have bellied up to the bar at this bodega since 1836. The once-rough neighborhood used to be inhabited by fishermen and dock workers, but Casa Montaña led the revival (and some say) gentrification. Dock workers still come in, but they’re as likely to be crew off the racing yachts as stevedores. Class truly doesn’t matter here, as everyone is welcome. The room is jammed with large wine barrels (most of them full), and the kitchen serves an almost encyclopedic range of tapas, with an emphasis on fish. Don’t miss the ancient Saracen titaina casserole made with tuna belly, chopped tomatoes and peppers, and graced with toasted pine nuts. The wine cellar is extensive, and if you admire the list, owner Emiliano Garcia might invite you to tour the cellars.