In a country where cutting-edge food is considered one of the liveliest indigenous art forms, it’s only fitting that the contemporary art museum Instituto Valenciano de Arte Moderno should boast a delightfully inventive restaurant. Bright and airy, it’s easily one of the most glamorous eateries in the city, and the dishes are fascinating reinterpretations of the Spanish culinary canon. The country is obsessed with red meat, so Sucursal offers a tartar—of tomato with pickles and mustard. Scallops are almost always presented grilled or baked on the half shell, but here they’re featured with edamame in a green soup called “liquid herbs.” Instead of paella, there’s a soupy caldoso of creamy rice with sea lettuce and spinach. Even the venerable roast hake gets a novel treatment with a pil pil sauce of soft seaweed.