Planning a trip to Vancouver

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- The telephone area code for all of Vancouver Island, including Victoria and most of British Columbia, is 250. For Vancouver and the greater Vancouver area, including Squamish and Whistler, it's 604.

ATMS & Banks -- You’ll find 24-hour PLUS and Cirrus bank machines just about anywhere you need to be—shopping areas, bars, nightclubs, sports arenas, and, of course, banks. The major Canadian banks include BMO Bank of Montreal, CIBC, HSBC, RBC Royal Bank, Scotiabank, and TD Canada Trust. Remember that if you withdraw money from a bank that is not your own, it will likely charge you an additional fee.

Business Hours -- Business hours vary greatly, especially in Vancouver, so it’s best to check ahead with the establishment you want to visit. Most shops are open 10am to 6pm, with late openings on Thursdays and Fridays. Some, however, are open 24 hours; others only open certain days. Restaurants are open for lunch between 11:30am and 2pm, then close until 5pm when they open to serve dinner until midnight; however, chains and hotel restaurant will stay open most of the day, while smaller places will not open for lunch on Saturdays and may not open at all on Sundays and Mondays, unless they offer brunch.

Child Care -- If you need to rent cribs, car seats, playpens, or other baby accessories, Wee Travel (tel. 604/222-4722; www.weetravel.ca) delivers them right to your hotel or the airport.

Customs -- You’ll pass through Canadian Customs upon arrival and U.S. Customs if you are traveling through the U.S. on your departure. Remember that you will need a passport to enter Canada. Also, there are restrictions on alcohol, plant materials, cash, gifts, cigarettes, certain foodstuffs, and pets coming into Canada, so if you have any concerns or questions, check with Canada Border Services (tel. 800/461-9999; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

Dentists -- Most major hotels have a dentist on call. Vancouver Centre Dental Clinic (Vancouver Centre Mall, 1B11–650 W. Georgia St.; tel. 604/682-1601; www.vancouverdentalclinic.com) is another option. You must make an appointment. The clinic is open Monday to Thursday 8:30am to 5pm (Wed until 6pm) and Friday 8:30am to 2pm.

Doctors -- Hotels usually have a doctor on call. Ultima Medicentre (Bentall Centre, 1055 Dunsmuir St.; tel. 604/683-8138; www.ultimamedicentre.ca) is a drop-in clinic open Monday through Friday 8am to 5pm. Care Point Medical Centers have a number of clinics, including one downtown (1175 Denman St.; tel. 604/681-5338; www.cbi.ca), open Monday through Wednesday 8:30am to 9pm, Thursday to Saturday 9am to 9pm, and Sunday 9am to 8pm.

Disabeled Travelers -- Both Vancouver and Victoria have made it a priority to be as accessible as possible for people with disabilities. Indeed, the publication “We’re Accessible,” a newsletter for travelers with disabilities, called Vancouver “the most accessible city in the world.” Except perhaps in some of the oldest neighborhoods, you can find wheelchair-accessible entrances, ramps, and walkways throughout both cities, as well as beeping signals for the visually impaired. Buses and transit stations almost always have lifts for wheelchairs. All public spaces, including restaurants, must offer wheelchair-accessible restrooms, and most hotels also have specially equipped rooms for those in wheelchairs, as well as visual smoke alarms for the hearing impaired. For more information, visit the Government of Canada site www.accesstotravel.gc.ca. In addition, both Tourism Vancouver (www.tourismvancouver.com/vancouver/accessible-vancouver) and Tourism Victoria (www.tourismvictoria.com/plan/travel-tips/special-needs) have resources for travelers with disabilities.

Drinking Laws -- British Columbia’s antiquated liquor laws are undergoing a massive and keenly anticipated overhaul, so much could change in the future. Currently beer, wine, and spirits are sold in government liquor stores and a handful of private liquor or artisan-producer stores. However, in summer 2014, some farmers’ markets began sampling and selling alcohol; within a year or two, alcohol will also likely be available in grocery stores. What will not change is the legal drinking age—19—and the blood-alcohol limit for driving—0.05 mg per 100 mL, or about one drink.

Drug Stores -- The two main drug store chains in Western Canada are Shoppers Drug Mart and BC’s own London Drugs, although some supermarkets and mass retailers also have pharmacies, and there are smaller, independent drug stores as well. For a 24-hour pharmacy in downtown Vancouver, try the Shoppers Drug Mart at 1125 Davie St., tel. 604/669-2424; in Victoria, go to the Shoppers at 3511 Blanshard St., tel. 250/475-7572.

Electricity -- As in the U.S., electric current is 110 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220 to 240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220 to 240 volts to 110 to 120 volts are difficult to find in North America, so bring one with you. Plugs have two flat prongs, so you may need an adapter as well. Many electronics such as laptops and tablets are fine with the voltage change, but check with the manufacturer beforehand just to make sure.

Embassies & Consulates -- If you lose your passport or run into any other difficulties, contact your embassy or consulate for help. Here are some of the main Vancouver addresses; check the Yellow Pages for other countries.

Australia: 2050-1075 W. Georgia St.; tel. 604/684-1177; www.canada.embassy.gov.au

Ireland: 210–837 Beatty St.; tel. 604/683-9233; www.embassyofireland.ca

New Zealand: 2250-1050 Pender St.; tel. 604/684-7388; www.nzembassy.com

United Kingdom: 800–1111 Melville St.; tel. 604/683-4421; ww2.britainincanada.org

United States: 1075 W. Pender St.; tel. 604/685-4311; www.vancouver.usconsulate.gov

Emergencies -- Dial tel. 911 for fire, police, ambulance, and poison control. This is a free call.

Hospitals -- St. Paul’s Hospital (1081 Burrard St.; tel. 604/682-2344) is the closest facility to downtown and the West End. West Side Vancouver hospitals include Vancouver General Hospital (855 W. 12th Ave.; tel. 604/875-4111) and BC Children’s Hospital (4480 Oak St.; tel. 604/875-2345). In North Vancouver, there’s Lions Gate Hospital (231 E. 15th St.; tel. 604/988-3131).

Hotlines -- Emergency numbers include the Crisis Centre (tel. 604/872-3311), Rape Crisis Centre (tel. 604/255-6228), Rape Relief (tel. 604/872-8212), BC Drug and Poison Information Centre (tel. 604/682-5050), Crime Stoppers (tel. 800/222-8477), and SPCA animal emergency (tel. 604/879-3571).

Family Travel -- Vancouver and Victoria are two of the most child-friendly cosmopolitan cities in the world. In addition to the standard attractions and sights, you’ll find a lot of free, adventurous, outdoor activities that both you and your kids will enjoy

Health -- Medical standards in Canada are very high, so should you fall ill during your visit, you will be in good hands. If you need a doctor, your hotel can help you find a reliable one. You will not have to undergo a credit check before being treated, unless you visit a private clinic rather than a public hospital, although some procedures—such as MRIs—may not be covered by your insurance. In all cases, make sure your travel insurance is up to date and that you are aware of what, exactly, it covers. Also, keep in mind that prescription drugs can be significantly less expensive in Canada. In addition, those with food allergies and aversions will be pleased to know that both Vancouver and Victoria are world leaders in accommodating dietary restrictions. And the tap water is perfectly safe to drink in B.C.; in fact, it’s some of the cleanest, tastiest drinking water around.

Insurance -- For information on traveler’s insurance, trip cancelation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Internet Access -- Increasingly, free Wi-Fi is becoming available almost everywhere from coffee shops to hotels to public parks to the airport. The exception is some of the higher-end hotels, which still charge a substantial daily Internet fee or provide basic access for free, but charge for faster speeds and bigger bandwidths. In addition, some hotels will loan out tablets during your visit, and almost all of them will have a business center with Internet access.

Legal Aid -- In case of trouble with the authorities, international visitors should call their embassy or consulate. If you are accused of a serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer.

LGBT Travelers -- Since 2003, when British Columbia legalized same-sex marriage, Vancouver and Victoria have become favored sites for gay and lesbian weddings and elopements. Even before that, though, these hip, friendly, and open-minded cities were popular destinations for LGBT visitors—Vancouver especially has a thriving gay community and hosts one of the world’s biggest and most exuberant Pride weeks, which includes a parade that attracts more than 650,000 spectators (www.vancouverpride.ca).

Luggage Storage & Lockers -- Lockers are available at the main Vancouver railway station (which is also the main bus depot), Pacific Central Station, 1150 Station St., near Main Street and Terminal Avenue (tel. 604/661-0328).

Mail & Postage -- The Vancouver Main Post Office is located at 349 W. Georgia St.; in Victoria, it’s at 706 Yates St. For other locations, many of which are within other retail locations, look for a “Postal Services” sign. At press time, letters and postcards up to 30 grams cost C65ce to mail within Canada, C$1.10 to mail to the U.S., and C$1.85 for overseas airmail service. For more information, call tel. 866/606-6301 or visit www.canadapost.ca.

Mobile Phones -- Canada is part of the GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use. GSM phones function with a removable plastic SIM card, encoded with your phone number and account information. If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable multiband phone, you can make and receive calls across Canada. Just call your wireless operator and ask for “international roaming” to be activated on your account. (Many U.S. cellphones are already equipped with this capability and need no further modification to operate in Canada.) To save money on roaming charges, you can also unlock your phone and buy a prepaid Canadian SIM card.

Money & Costs -- Until recently, the Canadian dollar was enjoying an extended period of economic strength. In recent months, though, its value has fallen against other currencies, driving up prices for many goods and services. Vancouver especially is an expensive city, with some of the highest living costs in the world. Still, you can often find special discounts for children and seniors, as well as plenty of free things to do.

It’s worth noting that the C$1 and C$2 bills have been replaced by coins known, respectively, as the “loonie” (because it has the bird known as a loon on one side) and the “toonie,” because it’s worth two loonies. It’s wise to carry a few—you’ll need them for parking meters, tips, and incidentals. Aside from that, credit and debit cards are widely accepted, though additional charges are often added when you use them. Most establishments will also accept American currency, but stores and restaurants typically offer poor exchange rates. Withdrawing cash from an ATM usually gives you the best exchange rate. For the most up-to-the-minute rates, consult www.xe.com.

Newspapers & Magazines -- The two local daily papers are the broadsheet “Vancouver Sun” (www.vancouversun.com) and the tabloid “Province” (www.theprovince.com). Also check out the free weeklies, “Georgia Straight” (www.straight.com), and “The West Ender” (www.wevancouver.com).

Packing Tips -- No matter what time of year you travel to Vancouver and Victoria, you will want to pack layers, comfortable walking shoes, and rain gear, including a waterproof jacket and umbrella. For more helpful information on packing, go to www.frommers.com and follow the links to the “Packing Tips” section of the website.

Passports -- All international travelers entering Canada are required to carry a valid passport. U.S. citizens who are members of NEXUS or FAST programs and are entering Canada by land or sea may use their membership cards as proof of identity instead.

Pharmacies -- Shopper’s Drug Mart (1125 Davie St.; tel. 604/669-2424) is open 24 hours. Several Safeway supermarket pharmacies are open late; the one on Robson and Denman streets is open until midnight.

Police -- Dial tel. 911 for fire, police, ambulance, and poison control. This is a free call. For non-emergencies, the Vancouver City Police can be reached at tel. 604/717-3321.

Post Office -- The main post office (349 W. Georgia St., at Homer St.; tel. 866/607-6301) is open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5:30pm. You’ll also find post office outlets in some Shopper’s Drug Mart and 7-Eleven stores with longer open hours than the main post office.

Safety -- Overall, Vancouver is a safe city, and Victoria is even safer. But it is worth noting that in recent years Vancouver has seen a spate of targeted, gang-related shootings, some of which have hit high-end downtown restaurants. A bigger problem for most visitors is property crime and theft. Never leave valuable items on view in your parked car, and take care with handbags, cameras, wallets, and the like, especially in crowded areas.

It’s also worth noting that, because of the mild climate and various social issues, both cities have large populations of homeless, so you can expect plenty of panhandlers in touristy areas. Vancouver’s Downtown Eastside especially is a troubled, drug-riddled neighborhood that borders two of the city’s trendiest areas, Gastown and Chinatown. Avoid the DTES if you can, especially at night, and if you somehow find yourself at the corner of Hastings and Main, exercise all possible caution.

Senior Travel -- Thanks to their mild weather, Vancouver and Victoria have become havens for older Canadians, as well as senior travelers. Senior travelers often qualify for discounts at hotels, restaurants, and attractions. Discount transit passes are also available.

Smoking -- Smoking is prohibited in all public areas, including restaurants, bars, and clubs, as well as public transportation. Many hotels are now entirely smoke-free. In September 2010, a ban was also instituted on smoking in public parks, including Stanley Park, and beaches.

Student Travel -- Obtain an International Student Identity Card (ISIC) and you will be eligible for a variety of discounts on accommodation, transportation, goods, and services. Visit isiccanada.ca for details.

Students will also find inexpensive accommodation at youth hostels run by Hostelling International in Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, and Tofino. For membership information, visit the Hostelling International websites at www.hiusa.org and www.hihostels.ca.

Travel CUTS (tel. 800/667-2887; www.travelcuts.com) is a great source for inexpensive accommodation, transportation, advice, and more for students and young travellers in general.

Taxes -- After a brief and controversial period under a harmonized sales tax (HST), B.C. has returned to its old system of a 5 percent Goods and Services Tax (GST) plus a 7 percent Provincial Sales Tax (PST). Most goods and many services carry both taxes, but some only carry the GST and sometimes the PST is higher than 7 percent, so don’t be surprised if you encounter confusion at the till.

Most accommodations charge an 8 percent PST on top of the GST, as well as a Municipal and Regional District Tax (MRDT) of up to 2 percent. Food at restaurants carries only the 5 percent GST, but alcoholic beverages come with a hefty 10 percent PST on top of the GST. And no, there is no tax rebate program for visitors.

Tipping -- Service is rarely included in your bill, so expect to tip in restaurants and hotels just as you would in the U.S. In general, follow these guidelines:

In hotels, tip bellhops at least C$1 per bag, more if you have a lot of luggage or are staying in a high-end property. Leave the chamber staff at least C$2 a day, more if you are staying in a posh hotel or you have left behind a big mess. Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service, and tip the valet-parking attendant C$2 every time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff and bartenders 15 percent to 20 percent of the check, tip coatroom attendants C$2 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants C$2 per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip cab drivers 15 percent of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least C$1 per bag (C$2–C$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15 percent to 20 percent.

Toilets -- You won’t find public toilets on the streets in either Vancouver or Victoria, or at least not any you would want to use, but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Note that Canadians typically call these facilities “washrooms” rather than “restrooms.”

Visitor Information --  Contact Tourism Vancouver Visitor Centre (200 Burrard St., Plaza Level; tel. 604/683-2000; www.tourismvancouver.com); for Victoria, contact Tourism Victoria Visitor Centre (812 Wharf St.; tel. 800/663-3883 or 250/953-2033; www.tourismvictoria.com)

For information about travel and accommodations elsewhere in the province, contact Destination British Columbia (tel. 800/435-5622; www.hellobc.com).

Tips for Senior Travelers

Because BC has the mildest weather in all of Canada, Vancouver and Victoria have become havens for older and retired Canadians. Senior travelers often qualify for discounts at hotels and attractions throughout the area. Always ask; you'll be pleasantly surprised at the number of discounts available. Discount transit passes for persons 65 or older (with proof of age) may be purchased at shops in Vancouver and Victoria that display a FareDealer sign (Safeway, 7-Eleven, and most newsstands). To locate a FareDealer vendor, contact BC Transit (tel. 604/521-0400; www.transitbc.com).

If you're 50 or older, consider joining AARP (3200 E. Carson, Lakewood, CA 90712; tel. 800/424-3410; www.aarp.org); their card offers additional restaurant and travel bargains throughout North America.

Getting Around

Getting lost as you wander around a fascinating new neighborhood is part of the fun of traveling. And getting lost in Vancouver, or at least losing your directional bearings, is possible, mostly because the main grid of streets doesn't run strictly north-south, but rather northwest to southeast like a parallelogram.

If you do become directionally challenged, just look for the mountains. They are to the north, across a body of water called Burrard Inlet. If you're facing the mountains, east is to your right, west is to your left, and the back of your head is pointing south. That one tip will generally keep you pointed in the right direction, no matter where you are. You'll also find that Vancouverites are incredibly friendly: If you're scratching your head over a map, almost inevitably someone will ask if he or she can help.

By Public Transportation

Vancouver’s public transportation system is the most extensive in Canada and includes service to all major tourist attractions, so you really don’t need a car, especially if you’re staying in the downtown area.

The Translink (tel. 604/953-3333; www.translink.ca) system includes electric trolley and diesel buses, the SeaBus catamaran ferry, and the light-rail SkyTrain. It’s a reliable, safe, eco-friendly, and inexpensive system that allows you to get everywhere you want to go, including the beaches and ski slopes. Regular service runs from about 5am to 2am, although schedules vary depending on the line, and some routes have reduced service on Sundays and holidays. Schedules and routes are available online, at tourist information centers, and at many major hotels.

At some point in 2014, all the current passes and tickets will be replaced by a reloadable electronic fare card called Compass. The rollout is being done gradually, so you can expect some confusion regarding fares and how to pay them throughout the year. Until Compass is fully in place, you will still be able to pay cash on buses, buy tickets for SkyTrain and SeaBus at machines in the stations, and purchase FareSavers and DayPasses at retailers displaying the FareDealer sign. Fares are based on the number of zones traveled and one ticket allows you to transfer from one mode of transport to another, in any direction, within 90 minutes. A one-way, one-zone fare (everything in central Vancouver) costs C$2.75. A two-zone fare—C$4—is required to travel to nearby suburbs such as Richmond or North Vancouver, and a three-zone fare—C$5.50—is required for travel to the far-off city of Surrey. To depart the airport costs an additional C$5 over the two-zone fare. After 6:30pm on weekdays and all day on weekends and holidays, you can travel anywhere in all three zones for C$2.75. DayPasses, good on all public transit, cost C$9.75 for adults and can be used for unlimited travel.

By Bus

Both diesel and electric-trolley buses service the city. Regular service on the busiest routes is about every 5 to 15 minutes from 5am to 1am, although hours will vary depending on the route. Wheelchair-accessible buses and bus stops are identified by the international wheelchair symbol. Some key routes to keep in mind: no. 5 (Robson St.), no. 6 (Davie St.), no. 10 (Granville St.), no. 4 (UBC), no. 2 (Kitsilano Beach to downtown), no. 50 (Granville Island), no. 19 (Stanley Park), no. 240 (North Vancouver), and no. 250 (West Vancouver–Horseshoe Bay). The Translink site (www.translink.ca) has a handy “Next Bus” feature that lets you plug in the number of your bus stop, and it’ll let you know when the next bus is due.

By SkyTrain

SkyTrain is a fast, light-rail service between downtown Vancouver and the suburbs. All stations are wheelchair accessible. The Expo Line trains operate along a scenic 27km (17-mile) route from downtown Vancouver east to Surrey in 39 minutes. The Millennium Line loops from Waterfront through Burnaby, Port Coquitlam, New Westminster, and East Vancouver. Trains on both lines run every 2 to 8 minutes. Canada Line links Richmond and Vancouver International Airport to downtown. Trains run every 4 to 20 minutes, and departures from YVR cost an additional C$5.

By SeaBus

Double-ended catamaran ferries take passengers, cyclists, and wheelchair riders on a scenic 12-minute commute across Burrard Inlet between downtown’s Waterfront Station and North Vancouver’s Lonsdale Quay. The SeaBus travels every 15 minutes from 6am to 7:30pm on weekdays and 10am to 6:30pm on weekends; outside of peak hours, it departs every 30 minutes. There’s a countdown clock in each terminal that lets you know whether you need to run or be prepared to wait for the next crossing. The crossing is a two-zone fare on weekdays until 6:30pm.

By Taxi

Cab fares start at C$3.20 and increase at a rate of C$1.85 per kilometer. In the downtown area, you can expect to travel for less than C$12, plus tip. Taxis are easy to find in front of major hotels, but flagging one down can be tricky, especially late at night or on rainy days. Most drivers are usually on radio calls, and thanks to built-in satellite positioning systems, if you call for a taxi, it often arrives faster than if you go out and hail one. Call for a pickup from Black Top (tel. 604/731-1111), Yellow Cab (tel. 604/681-1111), Vancouver Taxi (tel. 604/871-1111), or MacLure’s (tel. 604/731-9211).

By Car

If you’re staying in Vancouver proper, you don’t really need a car. Parking can be a hassle in both cities and is quite expensive in downtown Vancouver. But if you must drive, keep in mind that driving in Vancouver can be quite a leisurely experience—there are no freeways through the city, plus the addition of new bike lanes has meant the loss of driving lanes, which has slowed traffic even further. Add a few major construction projects and a landscape that doesn’t necessarily lend itself to a grid system, and you can see why a short trip can take such a long time. At least the view is nice while you wait.

You can find rental cars at Avis (757 Hornby St.; tel. 800/879-2847 or 604/606-2868; www.avis.ca), Budget (416 W. Georgia St.; tel. 800/472-3325 or 604/668-7000; www.budget.ca), Enterprise (550 Bute St.; tel. 800/736-8222 or 604/689-7377; www.enterpriserentacar.ca), Hertz Canada (1270 Granville St.; tel. 800/263-0600 or 604/606-4711; www.hertz.com), National (999a Canada Place; tel. 800/387-4747 or 604/609-7160; www.nationalcar.ca), or Thrifty (413 Seymour St.; tel. 800/847-4389 or 604/606-1666; www.thrifty.com). These firms all have counters and shuttle service at the airport as well.

Driving Rules -- Canadians drive on the right-hand side of the road and pass on the left. Distance is measured in kilometers, which everyone calls “clicks,” and speed is counted in kilometers per hour, or kmph. In the city, the average speed is usually 50kmph (30 mph) and on the highway 100kmph (60 mph). Also, remember that seatbelts and car insurance are compulsory in British Columbia.

Breakdowns -- Contact the British Columbia Automobile Association (BCAA; tel. 800/222-4357; www.bcaa.com) for emergency roadside assistance.

Gasoline -- Most service stations are self-service and open 24 hours a day. Remember that gas is measured in liters, not gallons, and is more expensive than it is in the U.S., though not as pricy as it is in Europe.

Vancouver is a cyclist’s paradise. Along Robson and Denman streets near Stanley Park you will find plenty of places to rent bikes. Paved paths crisscross through parks and along beaches, plus several major thoroughfares now have designated bike lanes. Helmets are mandatory, and riding on sidewalks is illegal except on designated bike paths. SkyTrain, SeaBus, and many buses will carry your bike at no extra charge. For more information on cycling in B.C., visit www.th.gov.bc.ca/BikeBC.

By Mini Ferry

Crossing False Creek to Granville Island or Vanier Park on one of the zippy little mini-ferries is a cheap and fun way to get around. There are two lines—Aquabus (tel. 604/689-5858; www.theaquabus.com) and False Creek Ferries (tel. 604/684-7781; www.granvilleislandferries.bc.ca)—which dock at the south foot of Hornby Street, Granville Island, Science World, and other locations. They operate daily from about 7am to 10:30pm (9:30pm in winter) and run every 3 to 15 minutes or so, but schedules change monthly and depend on the route. They are not part of Translink, so your public transit pass or ticket is not valid. One-way fares are C$3.25 to C$5.50 for adults and C$1.75 to C$3.75 for seniors and children. Various passes are also available.

On Foot

Vancouver proper is a great place to explore by foot. It’ll take you about half an hour to cross the peninsula from north to south, and about twice that to wander west to east from, say, Stanley Park to Chinatown. There’s plenty to see while you’re walking that you’ll miss from a car or bus. Just make sure you have a map, comfortable walking shoes, layers, and an umbrella, because you never know what Vancouver’s unpredictable weather will throw at you.

Escorted & Package Tours

Accent Cruises (tel. 800/993-6257 or 604/688-6625; www.accentcruises.ca) runs a sunset cruise most nights from Granville Island, departing at 6pm depending on availability, with a chicken-and-salmon buffet (C$65 per person).

Paddlewheeler Riverboat Tours (tel. 604/525-4465; www.vancouverpaddlewheeler.com) offers sunset dinner cruises that depart from New Westminster Quay and sail along the mighty Fraser River aboard the 19th-century vessel SS Native (C$65 adults, C$60 seniors, C$50 children 6–12), as well as day trips to historic Fort Langley, Steveston, and Harrison Hot Springs.

By Bus

Big Bus (tel. 877/299-0701 or 604/299-0700; www.bigbus.ca) runs a fleet of double-decker buses on a 90-minute “hop-on, hop-off” sightseeing loop around the city. A good place to start the tour is at Canada place, and buses roll by frequently. Two-day passes C$45 adults, C$40 students and seniors, and C$25 children 6 to 12, free for children 5 and under, and C$115 family pass.

Landsea Tours (tel. 877/669-2277 or 604/255-7272; www.vancouvertours.com) offers a wide array of tour options, including a 4-hour city highlights tour through Vancouver in a 24-person van. Offered daily year-round at 10am, and April to early November at 2pm as well (C$75 adults, C$45 children). You can also take a tour up to Grouse Mountain and the Capilano Suspension Bridges well as tours of wineries, Victoria, Whistler, and the new Sea to Sky excursion.

Vancouver Trolley Company (tel. 888/451-5581 or 604/801-5515; www.vancouvertrolley.com) operates gas-powered trolleys on a route through downtown, the West End, Stanley Park, Kitsilano, Yaletown, and Chinatown. Tours depart every 20 minutes from 30 stops, where passengers can get on and off, explore, and catch another scheduled trolley. Onboard, drivers provide detailed commentary. Purchase 1-day and 2-day tickets from the driver or, in summer, at the Gastown ticket booth at 157 Water St. Two-day fare C$45 adults, C$40 seniors and children 13 to 18, and C$25 children 4 to 12.

First Nations Tours

The Tsleil-Waututh Nation of North Vancouver leads a number of cultural and eco tours that provide an introduction to both First Nations culture and the stunning Indian Arm fjord. Their company, Takaya Tours (tel. 604/904-7410; www.takayatours.com) operates from the Cates Park Paddling Centre in North Vancouver in summer (tel. 604/985-2925), and conducts a roster of outdoor tours ranging from nature walks to cultural boat excursions. Prices run from C$35 to C$95, with dinner options available for groups.

Gourmet Tours

Vancouver Foodie Tours (tel. 877/804-9220 or 604/295-8844; http://foodietours.ca) offers walking tours of some of the city’s best dining options—there’s a food truck tour (C$49 per person), “guilty pleasures” gourmet tour (C$69), and a Granville Island Market tour (C$49). Tours are led by well-informed and passionate local foodies, and are a great way to discover the delectable tastes of the city.

Chef and Chauffeur (tel. 604/267-1000; www.chefandchauffeur.com) runs several tours of the Fraser Valley, located an hour east of the city, and the more distant Okanagan Valley, famed for its fruit, produce, meats, cheeses, and wines. Participants start the day with coffee, fresh orange juice, and cinnamon buns or berry scones while their guide maps out the day’s adventures. The tours, in a luxury SUV, visit a variety of wineries, farms, bakeries, and cheese makers. Optional dinner and overnight add-ons are available. Tours range from C$200 to C$3,000 per person.

Swallow Tail Tours (tel. 778/855-9453; www.swallowtail.ca) offers a variety of gourmet tours of Vancouver and the surrounding area. For instance, the Canapé Crawl visits three top restaurants where participants get to sample tasting plates paired with beer, wine, and craft cocktails (C$100 per person). Other tours might head into wine country, go foraging in the forest, or crabbing on the beach.

Walking Tours

Forbidden Vancouver (tel. 604/839-3126; http://forbiddenvancouver.ca) takes you on a journey into Vancouver’s dangerous, disreputable past with a number of entertaining walking tours. The Lost Souls of Gastown tour, for instance, resurrects the wild frontier days of the 1800s; Prohibition City introduces you to the speakeasies, gangsters, corrupt pols, and dirty cops of the 1920s. Tours are led by expert storytellers in costume. The cost is C$22 adults, C$19 seniors and students, more for “special event” tours.

During the summer months (July–Aug), the Architectural Institute of BC (tel. 604/683-8588, ext. 306; www.aibc.ca) offers a number of architectural walking tours of downtown Vancouver neighborhoods, including Chinatown and Granville Island, for only C$10 per person. The 2-hour tours run on a rotating basis Tuesday through Saturday, departing at 1pm sharp from the AIBC Architecture Centre at 440 Cambie St. Call or visit the website for details and to book.

If you want to organize your own walking tour—say, through the West End, Shaughnessy, or Gastown/Chinatown—Tourism Vancouver has lots of tips, maps, and advice for you. Drop by the visitor center at 200 Burrard St., call tel. 604/682-2222, or visit www.tourismvancouver.com.

Money

Canadian monetary units are dollars and cents, with dollar notes issued in different colors. The standard denominations are C$5, C$10, C$20, C$50, and C$100. The "loonie" (so named because of the loon on one side) is the C$1 coin that replaced the C$1 bill. A C$2 coin, called the "toonie" because it's worth two loonies, has replaced the C$2 bill.

Note: If you're driving, it's a good idea to have a pocketful of toonies and loonies for parking meters. Avoid C$100 bills when exchanging money, as many stores refuse to accept these bills. Almost all stores and restaurants accept American currency, and most will exchange amounts in excess of your dinner check or purchase. However, these establishments are allowed to set their own exchange percentages and generally offer the worst rates of all.

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates.

The favorable exchange rate of the Canadian dollar against the U.S. dollar, the British pound, and the euro gives added value to whatever you buy. In 2011, the Canadian dollar grew considerably stronger, and at press time was virtually at par with the U.S. dollar. The Canadian dollar also gained strength against the British pound, the euro, and the Australian and New Zealand dollars. To offset this change, and because of the recession, hotels and restaurants have generally reduced their prices or kept them the same as last year. Prices in Vancouver are generally a bit higher than in Victoria.

From mid-September to April, prices for hotel rooms in both cities generally drop by at least 20%, and sometimes as much as 50%; the exception to this is Whistler, where winter is the high season and prices rise accordingly. The prices we've listed in "What Things Cost," below, are approximate.

ATMs

The easiest and best way to get cash in Vancouver and Victoria is from an ATM. The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on, then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) before you leave home, and be sure to find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Many banks impose a fee every time a card is used at a different bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions than for domestic ones. On top of this, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee.

The 24-hour PLUS and Cirrus ATM systems are widely available throughout British Columbia. The systems convert Canadian withdrawals to your account's currency within 24 hours. Cirrus network cards work at ATMs at BMO Bank of Montreal (tel. 800/555-3000), CIBC (tel. 800/465-2422), HSBC (tel. 888/310-4722), RBC Royal Bank (tel. 800/769-2511), TD Canada Trust (tel. 866/567-8888), and at all other ATMs that display the Cirrus logo.

Credit & Debit Cards

Major U.S. credit cards are widely accepted in British Columbia, especially American Express, MasterCard, and Visa. British debit cards like Barclay's Visa are also accepted. Diners Club, Carte Blanche, Discover, JCB, and EnRoute are taken by some establishments, but not as many. The amount spent in Canadian dollars will automatically be converted by your issuing company to your currency when you're billed -- generally at rates that are better than you'd receive for cash at a currency exchange. However, the bank will probably add a 3% "adjustment fee" to the converted purchase price. You can also obtain a PIN for your credit card and use it in some ATMs. You usually pay interest from the date of withdrawal and often pay a higher service fee than when using a regular ATM card.

Beware of hidden credit-card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country -- even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer's convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

What Things Cost in C$

Transfer to/from airport (transit/taxi) 4.00/45.00

Double room, moderate 200.00–300.00

Three-course dinner for one, without wine, moderate 40.00–50.00

Glass of wine 7.00–10.00

Double latte 3.75

Cup of coffee 1.75

Visitor Information

Tourist information centers and most hotels can provide you with a detailed downtown street map. A good all-around metropolitan area map is the Rand McNally Vancouver city map. If you’re an auto club member, the Canadian Automobile Association map is free to AAA and CAA members.

Getting There

From Canada

Air Canada (tel. 888/247-2262; www.aircanada.com) and WestJet (tel. 888/937-8538; www.westjet.com) offer numerous daily flights from most major Canadian cities as well as many smaller communities.

From the U.K.

Air Canada (tel. 888/247-2262; www.aircanada.com) and British Airways (tel. 800/247-9297; www.britishairways.com) offer direct daily flights from London Heathrow Airport.

From Australia & New Zealand

Air Canada (tel. 888/247-2262; www.aircanada.com) flies direct from Sydney daily. Qantas (tel. 13-13-13; www.qantas.com.au) also flies from Sydney to Vancouver, with a stopover in Los Angeles. Air New Zealand (tel. 0800/737-000; www.airnewzealand.co.nz) flies direct from Auckland to Vancouver 3 days a week.

Saving Money on Airfares

Sad but true, airfares are going up and up and up, thanks to the merger of the airlines. But there are still some savvy trips you can use to save—a hair—on airfares.

1. Search smartly: By which we mean don’t just rely on the “name-brand” sites when you’re looking for good fares. A relatively new type of airfare site called “consolidators” now search itineraries without selling them (they get a commission if a fare is bought) which means by looking at them you get a much broader search. They not only scan such online travel agencies as Orbitz and Expedia, they also search the airline sites directly as well as some of the lesser-known discount sites. The ones we would recommend are Momondo.com (you’ll find them on the Frommers.com website), Kayak.com, and DoHop.com.

2. Go when no one else is: And that doesn’t just mean flying in the off-season (although that can be a big money saver). Recent studies of airline booking data have shown that passengers who depart on a Wednesday (the cheapest day of the week to fly to most destinations) pay on average $40 less than those who fly on Sundays (the priciest day of the week).

3. Book at the right time: Perhaps it’s because consumers have more time to search for airfares on the weekends, but those who book then end up paying significantly more than those who book during the week. As well, according to a study from the Airline Reporting Corporation (the company that acts as the middleman btwn. airlines and travel agents) those who book 6 weeks in advance for a domestic ticket statistically spend the least amount of money.

The easiest, fastest, and cheapest way to get into Vancouver from the airport is by the Canada Line SkyTrain, opened in late 2009 and operated by Translink (tel. 604/953-3333; www.translink.ca). The train zips to Waterfront Station in 26 minutes, with several stops along the way. For airport passengers, there is a C$5 surcharge on top of Translink’s two-zone fare, bringing the total Canada Line ticket price to C$8.75 for adults on weekdays, C$7.50 after 6:30pm weekdays and all day on weekends. Purchase tickets at the machines clustered around the Canada Line entrance.

Several hotels (most of them in Richmond) provide courtesy shuttles; check with your accommodation to see what’s on offer. Otherwise, the average taxi fare from the airport to a downtown Vancouver hotel is approximately C$35, plus tip, but it can run up to C$40 or higher if the cab gets stuck in traffic. Aerocar Service (tel. 888/821-0021 or 604/298-1000; www.aerocar.ca) provides limousine service with flat rates based on destination as well as the type of vehicle and number of passengers. Rates start at C$45 for a trip downtown and C$55 to Canada Place, plus taxes and tip. Look for Aerocars and taxis in front of the terminal.

If you’re arriving from Vancouver Island, BC Ferries (tel. 888/223-3779; www.bcferries.com) offers three routes and numerous daily sailings.

By Train

The Amtrak Cascades service connects Seattle and Vancouver daily (tel. 800/872-7245; www.amtrakcascades.com). VIA Rail Canada offers passenger rail service from Toronto to Vancouver, with numerous stops along the way (tel. 888/842-7245; www.viarail.ca). And for the ultimate luxury train trip, there’s the Rocky Mountaineer, which takes you on a spectacular once-in-a-lifetime journey through the Rocky Mountains (tel. 877/460-3200; www.rockymountaineer.com).

By Bus

Greyhound Bus Lines (tel. 800/231-2222; www.greyhound.ca) offers daily service between Vancouver and major Canadian cities as well as Seattle. Pacific Coach Lines (tel. 800/661-1725 or 604/662-7575; www.pacificcoach.com) provides service between Vancouver and Victoria.

By Car

From the U.S., Interstate 5 from Seattle becomes Hwy. 99 at Peace Arch Crossing, then heads straight into Vancouver. (Don’t forget you’ll need your passport to enter Canada.) The 210km (130-mile) drive from Seattle takes about 2 1/2 hours, depending on lineups at the border. If you’re arriving from just about anywhere else, you’ll arrive on the Trans-Canada Highway (Hwy. 1). It takes about 11 hours to drive from Calgary to Vancouver, a distance of 970km (600 miles).

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

In 2006, after years of protests and negotiations by First Nations tribes and environmentalists, Canada declared British Columbia's Great Bear Rainforest off-limits to loggers. This landmark decision preserves the largest remaining temperate coastal rainforest in the world, some 6 million hectares (15 million acres) that are home to rare white bears and support the highest concentration of grizzly bears in North America. It must also be noted that much of British Columbia's economy is based on "resource extraction" of one kind or another, logging being the most prevalent.

Vancouver and Victoria are meccas of ecotourism in all its many guises. From patronizing restaurants that use only locally harvested foods (the 110-mile diet was conceived in Vancouver) and non-endangered fish to enjoying natural, nonpolluting fun by paddling kayaks and hiking through beautiful rainforests, you can enjoy green holidays in both of these cities without sacrificing any fun or flavor. Many hotels in both cities take green practices so seriously that they've almost turned sustainability into a one-upmanship competition. Incidentally, if you're ordering fish, look for the "Ocean Wise" logo on the menu -- it indicates what fresh, non-endangered fish has been sustainably harvested for the restaurant.

See www.frommers.com/planning for more tips on responsible travel.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Since 2003, when the Province of British Columbia announced the legalization of same-sex marriage, Vancouver and Victoria have become favored sites for gay and lesbian weddings. (Same-sex marriage is now legal throughout Canada.) Information about the process is listed on the invaluable www.gayvan.com website. Vancouver's official tourism website, www.tourismvancouver.com, also has information for gay and lesbian travelers.

What San Francisco is to the United States, Vancouver is to Canada -- a hip, laid-back town with a large, thriving gay community. In fact, the largest gay population in Western Canada lives here, primarily in the West End and Commercial Drive. You'll find hotels and restaurants in Vancouver to be very gay friendly. (The straight-friendly West End Guest House is owned and operated by a married gay couple.)

The club, bar, and party scene is chronicled in the biweekly gay and lesbian tabloid, Xtra! West, available at cafes, bars, and businesses throughout the West End.

The Gay Lesbian Transgendered Bisexual Community Centre, 2–1170 Bute St. (tel. 604/684-5307; www.qmunity.ca), has all kinds of information on events and the current hot spots. Also check out the Vancouver Pride Society website (www.vancouverpride.ca) for upcoming special events, including the annual Vancouver Pride Parade in June, one of the largest gay-pride events in North America. The Vancouver Queer Film Festival is held in mid-August; check www.queerfilmfestival.ca for more details. Also, check out Gay & Lesbian Ski Week at Whistler, located 121km (75 miles) north of Vancouver; for information, go to www.gaywhistler.com.

The gay and lesbian scene in Victoria is small but active. Explore the Pride link under "Plan Your Trip" at www.tourismvictoria.com, or go to the www.gayvictoria.ca website. At both sites, you'll find information about special places to stay and dine, plus things to do. The Victoria Pride Parade and Festival is held every summer in early July.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Every international air traveler entering Canada is required to show a passport. Note: U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U.S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the western hemisphere must now present a passport of other documents such as a passport card, compliant with the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI; visit www. getyouhome.gov for details; the Canada Border Services Agency website is www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca, and is also helpful).

Australia -- Australian Passport Information Service (tel. 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au).

Canada -- Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

Ireland -- Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).

New Zealand -- Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott St., Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).

United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Sq., London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).

United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

Like Canada, Australia and New Zealand are members of the British commonwealth and therefore need no special visas to travel between their respective countries, only a valid passport. U.S. citizens need only a passport to enter Canada. Visit www.cic.gc.ca/english/visit/visas.asp for a complete list of those countries which require a visa to enter or transit Canada.

Customs

You'll pass through Canadian Customs (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada or 204/983-3500) upon arrival and U.S. Customs (tel. 360/332-5771), if you are traveling through the U.S., on your departure.

If you're driving from Seattle, you're most likely to enter British Columbia, Canada, at the Peace Arch crossing (open 24 hr.; often, there's a 30-min. or longer wait) in Blaine, Washington. You'll go through Customs when you cross the border into Canada and will need to show your passport.

Arriving by air, you'll go through Customs at the airport once you clear passport control. (Even if you don't have anything to declare, Customs officials randomly select a few passengers and search their luggage.)

Visitors arriving by train, ferry, or cruise ship from the U.S. pass through U.S. Customs before boarding, and Canadian Customs upon arrival.

What You Can Bring into Canada. Your personal items can include the following: boats, motors, snowmobiles, camping and sports equipment, appliances, TV sets, musical instruments, personal computers, cameras, and other items of a personal or household nature. If you are bringing excess luggage, be sure to carry a detailed inventory list that includes the acquisition date, serial number, and cost or replacement value of each item. It sounds tedious, but it can speed things up at the border. Customs will help you fill out the forms that allow you to temporarily bring in your effects. This list will also be used by U.S. Customs to check off what you bring out. You will be charged Customs duties for anything left in Canada.

A few other things to keep in mind:

If you're over 19, you're allowed to bring in 1.2L (40 oz.) of liquor and wine or 24 355mL (12-oz.) cans or bottles of beer and ale, and 50 cigars, 400 cigarettes, or 397g (14 oz.) of manufactured tobacco per person. Any excess is subject to duty.

Gifts not exceeding C$60 and not containing tobacco products, alcoholic beverages, or advertising material can be brought in duty-free. Meats, plants, and vegetables are subject to inspection on entry. There are restrictions, so contact the Canadian Consulate for more details or check the Canada Border Services Agency website (www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca) if you want to bring produce into the country.

If you plan to bring your dog or cat, you must provide proof of rabies inoculation during the preceding 36-month period. Other types of animals need special clearance and health certification. (Many birds, for instance, require 8 weeks in quarantine.)

If you need more information concerning items you wish to bring in and out of the country, contact Canada Border Services (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

What You Can Take Home from Canada. If you're an international visitor, for information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/227-5511; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0L8 (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise, Crownhill Court, Tailyour Road, Plymouth, PL6 5BZ (tel. 0845/010-9000; www.hmce.gov.uk).

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service, Customs House, 5 Constitution Ave., Canberra City, ACT 2601 (tel. 1300/363-263; from outside Australia, 612/6275-6666; www.customs.gov.au).

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, the Customhouse, 17?21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington, 6140 (tel. 0800/428-786; from outside New Zealand, 649/300-5399; www.customs.govt.nz).

Tips for Families

Vancouver and Victoria are two of the most child-friendly cosmopolitan cities in the world. Where else would you find a market especially for kids? In addition to the standard attractions and sights, you'll find a lot of free, adventurous, outdoor activities that both you and your kids will enjoy. Recommended family travel websites include Family Travel Forum (www.familytravelforum.com), a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning; Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), an online magazine providing travel tips; and Travelwithyourkids.com, a comprehensive site written by parents, for parents, offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children.

Orientation

With four different bodies of water lapping at its edges and miles of shoreline, Vancouver's geography can seem a bit complicated. Downtown Vancouver is on a peninsula: Think of it as an upraised thumb on the mitten-shaped Vancouver mainland. Stanley Park, the West End, Yaletown, and Vancouver's business and financial center (downtown) are located on this thumb of land bordered to the north by Burrard Inlet, the city's main deepwater harbor and port, to the west by English Bay, and to the south by False Creek. Farther west beyond English Bay is the Strait of Georgia, part of the Pacific Ocean. Just south across False Creek is Granville Island, famous for its public market, and the beach community of Kitsilano. This part of the city, called the West Side, covers the mainland, or the hand of the mitten. Its western shoreline looks out on the Strait of Georgia with the Pacific beyond, and the north arm of the Fraser River demarcates it to the south. Pacific Spirit Park and the University of British Columbia (UBC), a locus for visitors because of its outstanding Museum of Anthropology, take up most of the western tip of the West Side; the rest is mostly residential, with a sprinkling of businesses along main arterial streets. Both the mainland and peninsula are covered by a simple rectilinear street pattern. North Vancouver is the mountain-backed area across Burrard Inlet from downtown.

Main Arteries & Streets

On the downtown peninsula are four key east-west streets (to be more directionally exact, the streets run southeast to northwest). Robson Street starts at BC Place Stadium on Beatty Street, flows through the West End's more touristed shopping district, and ends at Stanley Park's Lost Lagoon on Lagoon Drive. Georgia Street -- far more efficient for drivers than the pedestrian-oriented Robson -- runs from the Georgia Viaduct on the eastern edge of downtown through Vancouver's commercial core, through Stanley Park, and over the Lions Gate Bridge to the North Shore. Three blocks north of Georgia is Hastings Street, which begins in the West End, runs east through downtown, and then skirts Gastown's southern border as it runs eastward to the Trans-Canada Highway. Davie Street starts at Pacific Boulevard near the Cambie Street Bridge, travels through Yaletown into the West End's more residential shopping district, and ends at English Bay Beach.

Three north-south downtown streets will get you everywhere you want to go in and out of downtown. Three blocks east of Stanley Park is Denman Street, which runs from West Georgia Street at Coal Harbour to Beach Avenue at English Bay Beach. This main West End thoroughfare is where locals dine out. It's also the shortest north-south route between the two ends of the Stanley Park Seawall.

Eight blocks east of Denman Street is Burrard Street, which starts near the Canada Place Pier and runs south through downtown, crosses the Burrard Bridge, and then forks. One branch, still Burrard Street, continues south and intersects West 4th Avenue and Broadway before ending at West 16th Avenue on the borders of the ritzy Shaughnessy neighborhood. The other branch becomes Cornwall Avenue, which heads west through Kitsilano, changing its name to Point Grey Road and connecting via West 4th Avenue and Northwest Marine Drive to the University of British Columbia campus.

Granville Street starts near Waterfront Station on Burrard Inlet and runs the entire length of downtown, crosses the Granville Street Bridge to Vancouver's West Side, and carries on south across the breadth of the city before crossing the Arthur Laing Bridge to Vancouver International Airport.

On mainland Vancouver, the city's east-west roads are successively numbered from 1st Avenue at the downtown bridges to 77th Avenue by the banks of the Fraser River. The most important east-west route is Broadway (formerly 9th Ave.), which starts a few blocks from the University of British Columbia as West 10th Avenue before extending across the city to the border of neighboring Burnaby, where it becomes the Lougheed Highway. In Kitsilano, West 4th Avenue is an important east-west shopping and commercial corridor. Intersecting with Broadway at various points are a number of important north-south commercial streets, each defining a particular neighborhood. The most significant of these streets are (from west to east) MacDonald Street in Kitsilano; Granville, Cambie, and Main streets; and Commercial Drive.

What's West?

The thing to keep in mind when figuring out what's where in Vancouver is that this is a city where property is king, and the word west has such positive connotations that folks have always gone to great lengths to associate it with their particular patch of real estate. Thus we have the West End, the West Side, and West Vancouver, which improbably enough is located immediately beside North Vancouver. It can be a bit confusing for newcomers, but fortunately, each west has its own distinct character. The West End is a high-rise residential neighborhood on the downtown peninsula. The West Side is one-half of Vancouver, from Ontario Street west to the University of British Columbia. (The more working-class East Side covers the mainland portion of the city, from Ontario St. east to Boundary Rd.) Very tony West Vancouver is a city unto itself on the far side of Burrard Inlet. Together with its more middle-class neighbor, North Vancouver, it forms the North Shore.

Finding an Address

In many Vancouver addresses, the suite or room number precedes the building number. For instance, 100-1250 Robson St. is Suite 100 at 1250 Robson St.

In downtown Vancouver, Chinatown's Carrall Street is the east-west axis from which streets are numbered and designated. Westward, numbers increase progressively to Stanley Park; eastward, numbers increase approaching Commercial Drive. For example, 400 W. Pender would be 4 blocks from Carrall Street heading toward downtown; 400 E. Pender would be 4 blocks on the opposite side of Carrall Street. Similarly, the low numbers on north-south streets start on the Canada Place Pier side and increase southward in increments of 100 per block (the 600 block of Thurlow St. is 2 blocks from the 800 block) toward False Creek and Granville Island.

Off the peninsula, the system works the same, but Ontario Street is the east-west axis. Also, all east-west roads are avenues (for example, 4th Ave.), while streets (for example, Main St.) run exclusively north-south.

Street Maps

Tourist information centers and most hotels can also provide you with a detailed downtown map. Where Vancouver (tel. 604/736-5586; www.where.ca/vancouver), a free guide available at most hotels, has good maps. A good all-around metropolitan area map is the Rand McNally Vancouver city map. If you're an auto-club member, the Canadian Automobile Association (CAA) map is also good. It's not for sale, but it's free to both AAA and CAA members, and is available at AAA offices across North America.

Neighborhoods in Brief

Downtown -- Most of Vancouver’s commercial and office space is found in a square patch starting at Nelson Street and heading north to the harbor, with Homer and Burrard streets forming the east and west boundaries, respectively. Canada Place, on the waterfront facing Burrard Inlet, is part of the city’s huge convention center and cruise-ship terminal. The most interesting avenues for visitors are West Georgia, Robson, and Granville streets. West Georgia Street is where you’ll find the Vancouver Art Gallery, the Colosseum-inspired Vancouver Public Library, and the Pacific Centre shopping mall. Robson Street is all designer chains, restaurants, and cafes. Granville Street, also known as the Entertainment District, is where you’ll find many of the city’s bars, nightclubs, theaters, and pubs.

Gastown -- Vancouver’s oldest neighborhood, Gastown, was named for a voluble saloonkeeper named “Gassy” Jack Deighton, who kept the millworkers lubricated back when this was just a rough frontier settlement named Granville. In 1886, it was incorporated as the city of Vancouver—and just a few months later, burnt to the ground, only to be rebuilt from scratch shortly thereafter. And so began the first of the city’s many real estate booms. In today’s Gastown, you can find brick low-rises, cobblestoned streets, a certain amount of tourist tat, and plenty of quirky, vintage charm. It’s increasingly become home to many creative professionals, as well as some of the city’s most exciting restaurants, craft cocktail bars, First Nations art galleries, and unique boutiques, not to mention the famous Steam Clock on Water Street. Be aware, though, that Gastown borders the notorious Downtown Eastside, a desperately poor neighborhood of homeless, drug-addicted, and mentally ill residents, so it can be a bit dodgy, especially at night.

Chinatown -- Located southeast of Gastown, Vancouver’s Chinatown was originally settled by migrant laborers brought in to build the Canadian Pacific Railway. It quickly became one of North America’s most populous Chinatowns, and even today, although most of the city’s huge Asian population has moved out to Richmond, thousands of Cantonese- and Mandarin-speaking Canadians still live, shop, and eat here. And, although it retains much of its original character, Chinatown is quickly evolving into one of the city’s hippest neighborhoods, with trendy restaurants, cocktail bars, and condo projects moving in.

Yaletown & False Creek North -- Hard to believe these days, but legend has it this is where the expression “skid row” was coined. That’s because a century or so ago, Yaletown was where logs were “skidded” into the harbor. It was, at any rate, a rough, tough industrial area of sawmills, cooperages, and warehouses that likely stored illegal hooch back in the dirty days of Prohibition. Today, this is a sleek, chic, urban neighborhood of trendy condos, cool restos, chic boutiques, galleries, and well-dressed young professionals walking tiny dogs along the cobblestoned streets that are all that remain of the bad old days.

West End -- This was Vancouver’s first upscale neighborhood, settled in the 1890s by the city’s merchant princes. By the 1930s, most of the grand Edwardian homes had become rooming houses, and in the late 1950s, some of the Edwardians came down and high-rise apartments went up. Expect to find bland concrete towers sitting comfortably next to brick walkups among lush gardens, tree-lined streets, pocket parks, and the gorgeous beaches of English Bay. Davie Street is Vancouver’s most prominent gay neighborhood, with rainbow-painted crosswalks and rainbow banners fluttering overhead. Denman and the northern end of Robson Street are chock-a-block with cafes, takeout joints, and restaurants dishing up a global banquet of cuisines.

Granville Island -- Vancouver’s most successful urban renewal project, and one of its most popular destinations. This sandbar under the Granville Street Bridge was once an industrial area of sawmills and factories producing everything from paint to planks to machine parts. Then, back in the 1970s, the federal government decided to transform it into a “people-friendly place,” and to everyone’s surprise, succeeded. Its main attraction is the Granville Island Public Market, but you’ll also find theaters, pubs, restaurants, artists’ studios, bookstores, crafts shops, a marina, Fisherman’s Wharf, an art school, a hotel, parks, a community center, a cement plant, lots and lots of people, and just as many seagulls.

Kitsilano -- In the 1960s, this West Side neighborhood had fallen on hard times. Nobody respectable wanted to live there—the 1920s homes had all been converted to cheap rooming houses—so the hippies moved in. Kits became Canada’s Haight-Ashbury, with coffeehouses, head shops, and plenty of patchouli and long hair. Today the patchouli and head shops are gone, and this is one of the city’s priciest, most yuppified neighborhoods. It’s still a fun place to wander, though, with plenty of trendy boutiques selling furniture, housewares, fashion, and snowboards. Plus, every third storefront is a restaurant, and who can resist the heated saltwater swimming pool at Kits Beach?

Commercial Drive -- Known as “The Drive,” Commercial Drive is the 12-block section from Venables Street to East 6th Avenue. The Drive has an unpretentious, down-to-earth, fading counterculture feel to it. It’s an old immigrant neighborhood that, like everyplace else in Vancouver, has been rediscovered: First, it was the Italians, who were followed by waves of Portuguese, Hondurans, and Guatemalans. Nowadays it’s all young families, artists, and eccentrics of all stripes. Think Italian cafe near a Marxist bookstore across from a vegan deli and co-op grocery store, and you’ve got the picture.

Shaughnessy -- Designed in the 1920s as an enclave for Vancouver’s budding elite, this is Vancouver’s Westmount or Nob Hill. With its stately mansions, lush gardens, and towering trees, this a lovely place to go for a walk, a bike ride, or an afternoon drive and gaze upon the lifestyles of the rich and famous. Look on the map for the area of curvy and convoluted streets between Cypress and Oak streets and 12th and 32nd avenues. Be sure to check out The Crescent, where the poshest of the homes are, as well as South Granville Street, the luxurious shopping district between Broadway and 16th.

Richmond -- Not so long ago, this flat suburb was mostly farmland; about a third of it still is. But it’s also become the vibrant, exciting epicenter of Vancouver’s new Chinatown, where wealthy, well-educated newcomers are flocking from Hong Kong, Taiwan, and all over Asia. Head to an Asian-themed mall like Aberdeen Centre or Parker Place, and you’ll feel like you’ve landed in Hong Kong, without the jet lag. The best reason to visit, though, is the fantastic Chinese restaurants, which are considered some of the best in the world. Then, for a very different sort of experience, visit Steveston, a charming, historic fishing village that’s a great place for the whole family to spend a sunny day.

Little India -- Most of the businesses on this 4-block stretch of Main Street from 48th to 52nd Avenue are run by and cater to Indo-Canadians, primarily Punjabis. The area is best seen during business hours, when the fragrant scent of spices wafts from food stalls, and Hindi pop songs blare from hidden speakers, while young brides hunt through sari shops or seek out suitable material in discount textile outlets.

South Main -- South Main Street—awkwardly dubbed SoMa—is the city’s hip, new, happening neighborhood, all artist studios in converted industrial buildings, hidden theater companies, uber-trendy eateries, craft breweries, and independent eco-fashion boutiques. It still retains its old working-class and strong community feel, but with serious hipster street cred for miles. Nearby on Cambie Street lies City Hall, an Art Deco make-work project built in 1936.

North Shore -- Two bridges—the graceful Lions Gate and workmanlike Ironworkers Memorial Bridge—and the SeaBus connect Vancouver to the communities of North and West Vancouver and the North Shore Mountains. West Van is one of the wealthiest neighborhoods in Canada, a series of charming seaside “villages” and luxe homes with beautiful views from their aeries on the hill. North Van traditionally was more working class, and is still home to shipbuilding and a variety of light industries. It’s where you’ll find major attractions like the Capilano Suspension Bridge and Grouse Mountain, just one of three ski hills on the North Shore (the other two are Cypress Mountain and Mount Seymour). The North Shore Mountains are known for their hiking and biking trails, and can make for an idyllic day spent among nature.

The Newest Hood: Southeast False Creek -- Vancouverites still can’t get used to seeing this sleek, sophisticated new neighborhood instead of rundown old industrial lands. Mind you, it wasn’t created without a certain amount of pain. It was developed as the Vancouver Olympic Village to house the athletes during the 2010 Winter Games and was mired in controversy—the city abandoned its promise for subsidized housing, then had to take on the bills when the developer backed out of its agreement, and for a while, no one wanted to live or buy here. Now the dust has settled, and this is rapidly becoming one of the coolest hoods in the city. Located on the waterfront overlooking downtown and BC Place Stadium, it’s also considered one of the greenest neighborhoods in the world, with a fab new waterfront Seawall that makes it a good place to walk, run, or cycle.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Vancouver's former mayor, Sam Sullivan, is keenly aware of accessibility issues, having been a quadriplegic since breaking his neck in a skiing accident at age 19. He founded several nonprofit organizations dedicated to improving the quality of life for travelers with disabilities throughout North America. However, even before Sam Sullivan, Vancouver was working to improve accessibility.

According to We're Accessible, a newsletter for travelers with disabilities, Vancouver is "the most accessible city in the world." There are more than 14,000 sidewalk wheelchair ramps, and motorized wheelchairs are a common sight in the downtown area. The stairs along Robson Square have built-in ramps, and most major attractions and venues have ramps or level walkways for easy access. Most Vancouver hotels have at least partial wheelchair accessibility; many have specially equipped rooms for travelers with disabilities. Most SkyTrain stations and the SeaBus are wheelchair accessible, and most bus routes are lift-equipped. For further information about accessible public transportation, contact Translink (tel. 604/953-3333; www.translink.ca).

Many Vancouver hotels are also equipping rooms with visual smoke alarms and other facilities for hearing-impaired guests, while many crosswalks are now outfitted with beeping alerts to guide visually impaired pedestrians.

Victoria is similarly accessible. Nearly all Victoria hotels have rooms equipped to accommodate travelers with disabilities, and downtown sidewalks are equipped with ramps, though few intersections have beeping crosswalk signals for the visually impaired. The Victoria Regional Transit System (tel. 250/382-6161) has a downloadable Guide to Accessible Transit Services on its website, www.transitbc.com, which includes information on which bus routes are equipped with lifts and/or low floors. The most notable spot in Victoria that isn't readily wheelchair accessible is the promenade along the water's edge in the Inner Harbour, which has only one rather challenging ramp near the Pacific Undersea Gardens.

The government of Canada hosts a comprehensive Persons with Disabilities website (www.accesstotravel.gc.ca) with resources for travelers with disabilities. In addition to information on public transit in cities across Canada, the site also lists accessible campsites, parks, coach lines, and a number of links to other services and associations of interest to travelers with disabilities. If you can't find what you need online, call tel. 800/926-9105.

Outside of Canada, organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS [800/225-5667]; www.mossresourcenet.org); the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org); and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). AirAmbulanceCard.com is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) offers a comprehensive database on travel agents from around the world with experience in accessible travel; destination-specific access information; and links to such resources as service animals, equipment rentals, and access guides.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel. Avis Rent a Car (tel. 888/879-4273) has an "Avis Access" program that offers services for customers with special travel needs. These include specially outfitted vehicles with swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls; mobility scooter rentals; and accessible bus service. Be sure to reserve well in advance.

Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com), available by subscription ($17 per year in the U.S.; $22 per year outside the U.S.). The "Accessible Travel" link at Mobility-Advisor.com (www.mobility-advisor.com) offers a variety of travel resources to travelers with disabilities.

British travelers should contact Holiday Care (tel. 0845/124-9971 in the U.K.; www.tourismforall.org.uk) to access a wide range of travel information and resources for elderly people and individuals with disabilities.

Tips for Student Travelers

The southwestern corner of BC is definitely student-oriented territory, and you'll find inexpensive youth hostels run by Hostelling International in Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, and Tofino. These hostels make traveling in BC affordable and fun. For membership information, check the Hostelling International websites at www.hiusa.org and www.hihostels.ca.

The University of British Columbia (UBC, with more than 30,000 students) in the Point Grey area, Burnaby's Simon Fraser University, and a number of smaller schools contribute to the enormous student population in Vancouver. Student travelers have a lot of free and inexpensive entertainment options, both day and night. Pick up a copy of Georgia Straight to find out what's happening. Many attractions and theaters offer discounts if you have your student ID with you. While many establishments will accept a school ID, the surest way to obtain student discounts is with an International Student Identity Card (ISIC).

In Victoria, the University of Victoria (referred to locally as "U. Vic.") has a sprawling campus just east of downtown. The student population accounts for most, if not all, of Victoria's nightlife. Student discounts abound. Pick up a copy of Victoria's weekly paper, Monday Magazine (which comes out on Thurs), for current nightclub listings.

When to Go

The best time to visit Vancouver and Victoria is during the warmer and drier months of April through October. But with their moderate, sunny summers and mild, rainy winters, both cities welcome visitors year round, especially Victoria, which receives about half as much rain as Vancouver.

In February, the first crocuses and daffodils appear. In March, thousands of cherry trees burst into bridal blossom, and by the end of the month, azaleas, rhododendrons, and magnolias are in bloom. By late April, the first cruise ships start to arrive, taking advantage of the beautiful spring weather.

Summer rarely gets too hot, or too humid, thanks to the cooling ocean breezes, and is rarely rainy, but the crowds can seem overwhelming, especially in the touristy parts of both cities. September and October are often the best times to visit, with their long, warm days, smaller crowds, and rarely a spot of rain. November sees the start of the rainy season, which continues through to March. Even in the depth of winter, neither city sees much snow or freezing temperatures; this is, after all, the mildest part of Canada.

Holidays

The official British Columbia public holidays are New Year’s Day (Jan 1), Family Day (third Mon in Feb), Good Friday, Easter, Easter Monday, Victoria Day (third Mon in May), Canada Day (July 1), British Columbia Day (first Mon in Aug), Labour Day (first Mon in Sept), Thanksgiving (first Mon in Oct), Remembrance Day (Nov 11), Christmas (Dec 25), and Boxing Day (Dec 26).

ATMs will work on all holidays, and most stores and many businesses remain open on all except Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.

Daily Average High Temperatures & Total Precipitation for Vancouver, BC

Temp ([dg]F)               41     45     50     57     64     70     73      73      64      57      48      43

Temp ([dg]C)               5       7      10     14     18      21     23     23      18      14        9       6

Daily Average High Temperatures & Total Precipitation for Victoria, BC

Temp ([dg]F)               45     48     52     55     61     64      68     68      66      57      48      45

Temp ([dg]C)               7       9      11     13     16     18      20      20     19      14        9       7

Calendar of Events

The various festivals and special events held in Vancouver and Victoria every year draw tens of thousands of visitors and reflect an extraordinary diversity of cultures. Things may seem a little quiet in the winter and early spring, but that's because most residents simply head for the ski slopes. Resorts in Whistler Blackcomb (tel. 800/944-7853; www.whistler.com) have events happening nearly every weekend.

The dates below are approximate, and intended to help you plan your journey. For more information on events or help with planning, visit Tourism Vancouver (tel. 604/683-2000; www.tourismvancouver.com), Tourism Victoria (tel. 250/953-2033; www.tourismvictoria.com), or Destination BC (www.HelloBC.com).

January

Polar Bear Swim, Vancouver. Thousands of hardy citizens show up in elaborate costumes to dip into the icy waters of English Bay. Visit http://vancouver.ca for more information. January 1.

Dine Out, Vancouver. For 3 weeks starting in late January, Vancouver’s hottest restaurants offer three-course dinners at bargain prices, as well as a variety of other cool foodie events. For info, visit www.tourismvancouver.com.

PuSh International Performing Arts Festival, Vancouver. An international performing-arts festival featuring over 100 groundbreaking performances. Check out www.pushfestival.ca for more info. Late January to early February.

February

Chinese (Lunar) New Year, Vancouver, Richmond, and Victoria. In Chinese cultures, the 2-week-long festival is the time to pay debts, forgive grievances, and feast on exceptional food. On the official night of the Lunar New Year, celebrations start with a bang—firecrackers, drums, dragon dances, and multi-course banquets. The biggest celebration is in Richmond, www.tourismrichmond.com. Dates and events vary yearly.

Vancouver International Wine Festival. One of North America’s biggest and most respected wine festivals offers the opportunity to taste hundreds of wines from all over the world. Call tel. 604/873-3311 or 877/321-3121 or visit www.vanwinefest.ca. Mid-February.

International Bhangra Celebration, Vancouver. The city’s vast South Asian population celebrates with lively folk music and dance that originates in the Punjab. Details at www.vibc.org. Mid-February.

Dine Out, Victoria. For 10 days, Victoria’s most popular restaurants offer three-course dinners at great bargain prices. For details, visit www.tourismvictoria.com.

March

CelticFest, Vancouver. For 5 days each year, the sounds of fiddles, bagpipes, bodhrans, dancing feet, and voices resound throughout the city in celebration of Celtic culture. Visit www.celticfestvancouver.com. Mid-March.

Pacific Rim Whale Festival, Pacific Rim National Park. Every spring, more than 20,000 gray whales migrate past Vancouver Island’s west coast, and this fest celebrates with art shows, gala dinners, and whale-spotting excursions. Call tel. 250/726-5164 or visit www.pacificrimwhalefestival.com. Mid-March to early April.

April

Baisakhi Day Parade, Vancouver. The Sikh New Year is celebrated with a colorful parade around “Little India,” where streets are packed with musicians, dancers, and stalls offering free traditional food. Visit www.tourismvancouver.com. Mid-April.

Vancouver Sun Run. Canada’s biggest 10km (6.25-mile) race sees more than 60,000 runners, joggers, and walkers going through the city’s West End to BC Place Stadium. Call tel. 604/689-9441 or register at https://register.vancouversunrun.com.

May

Vancouver International Children’s Festival. North America’s premier annual festival of performing arts for young audiences features activities, plays, music, crafts, and celebrities throughout Granville Island. Call tel. 604/708-5655 or visit www.childrensfestival.ca. Mid-May.

Swiftsure International Yacht Race, Victoria. Colorful and fast sailboats make for spectacular scenery on the waters around Victoria. Visit www.tourismvictoria.com. Third or fourth weekend in May.

June

Rio Tinto Alcan Dragon Boat Festival, Vancouver. More than 150 local and international teams compete in this annual festival that also features music, dance, and Chinese acrobatics around False Creek. Visit www.dragonboatbc.ca. Third weekend in June.

TD Vancouver International Jazz Festival. More than 800 international jazz and blues players perform at 25 venues ranging from the Orpheum Theatre to free outdoor stages. Call tel. 604/872-5200 or visit www.coastaljazz.ca for more information. Late June/early July.

Bard on the Beach Shakespeare Festival, Vancouver. One of the city’s most popular festivals. Each year, four of Shakespeare’s plays are performed in a tent overlooking English Bay. Call tel. 604/739-0559 or visit www.bardonthebeach.org. Late May through late September.

Victoria International Cycling Festival. Canada’s biggest cycling event features drag races, urban mountain biking events, and two-wheel tricks atop a floating barge, as well as activities for all the two-wheelers in the family. Visit www.vicf.ca for details.

July

Canada Day. In Vancouver, celebrate the country’s birthday at an all-day celebration at Canada Place Pier, complete with music, dance, a 21-gun salute at noon, and fireworks. In Victoria, head to the Inner Harbour for music, food, and fireworks. But wherever you are, all communities will be celebrating. July 1.

Vancouver Folk Music Festival. Get your mellow on at this outdoor fest at Jericho Beach Park. Contact the Vancouver Folk Music Society at tel. 604/602-9798 or visit www.thefestival.bc.ca. Second or third weekend in July.

Taste, Victoria. A festival of food and wine. Pairings, dinners, workshops, and the grand tasting with more than 100 selections all offer an irresistible sampling of Vancouver Island cuisine. Visit www.victoriataste.com.

Honda Celebration of Light, Vancouver. The night skies above English Bay explode with spectacular light shows in the world’s biggest offshore fireworks competition. Visit www.hondacelebrationoflight.com for information. Three nights at the end of July to first week of August.

August

Victoria Symphony Splash. The city’s beautiful Inner Harbour is transformed into a concert stage for the largest outdoor symphony event in Canada. There’s music, food, fun, and all the bells, whistles, cannons, and fireworks of Tchaikovsky’s “1812 Overture” performed by the Victoria Symphony. Visit www.victoriasymphony.ca/splash. First Sunday in August.

Vancouver Pride Parade & Festival. This huge and hugely popular gay- and lesbian-pride festival features numerous events throughout the week, but the highlight is, without a doubt, the exuberant parade through the city’s West End. For more info, contact the Pride Society (tel. 604/687-0955; www.vancouverpride.ca). First Monday in August (BC Day).

Abbottsford International Air Show. Barnstorming stuntmen and precision military pilots fly everything from Sopwith Camels to Stealth Bombers in one of the biggest air shows in the world, held just outside Vancouver. Call tel. 604/852-8511 or visit www.abbotsfordairshow.com. Second weekend in August.

Pacific National Exhibition, Vancouver. The city’s favorite fair includes one of North America’s best all-wooden roller coasters. Special events include livestock demonstrations, logger competitions, fashion shows, and a midway. Call tel. 604/253-2311 or visit www.pne.ca for more details. Mid-August to Labour Day.

Classic Boat Festival, Victoria. Boaters from around the world converge in Victoria’s Inner Harbour for this annual Labor Day weekend celebration, which includes races, a parade of steam vessels, a cruise up the Gorge Waterway, and vessels open for tours. For more information, call tel. 250/383-8306 or visit www.classicboatfestival.ca. Last weekend in August.

September

Vancouver Fringe Festival. This celebration of the performing arts features more than 600 original and innovative shows, performed throughout the city by groups from Canada and around the world. Call tel. 604/257-0350 or check out www.vancouverfringe.com for more info. First and second week of September.

Victoria International Chalk Festival. Artists from around the world transform the streets of Victoria into a unique gallery of spectacular chalk art that must be seen to be believed. For info, visit www.victoriachalkfestival.com. Second weekend in September.

The Great Canadian Beer Festival, Victoria. Featuring samples from the province’s best microbreweries, this event is held at Royal Athletic Park. For more information, call tel. 250/383-2332 or visit www.gcbf.com. Early September.

October

Vancouver International Writers and Readers Festival. Public readings by Canadian and international authors, as well as writers’ workshops, take place on Granville Island and at other locations in the Lower Mainland. Call tel. 604/681-6330 or check www.writersfest.bc.ca for details. Mid-October.

November

Cornucopia, Whistler.Ten days—including two weekends—of eating, drinking, sampling, and seminars that often coincide with the opening of the ski season at Whistler Mountain Resort. For tickets and info, visit www.whistlercornucopia.com. Mid-November.

December

Carol Ship Parade of Lights Festival, Vancouver. Cruise ships decorated with colorful Christmas lights sail around English Bay, while onboard guests sip cider and sing their way through the canon of Christmas carols. For more info, call tel. 604/878-8999 or check out www.carolships.org. First 3 weeks in December.

Staying Connected

Telephones

Phones in British Columbia are identical to phones in the U.S. The country code is the same as the U.S. code (1). Local calls normally cost C25¢. Many hotels charge C$1 or more per local call and much more for long-distance calls, although more hotels are providing free local service. You can save considerably by using a calling card or your cellphone. You can buy prepaid phone cards in various denominations at grocery and convenience stores.

To call Vancouver or Victoria:

1. If you're calling from outside North America, dial the international access code: 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia. (Omit this step if you're calling from the U.S.)

2. Dial the country code 1.

3. For Vancouver or Whistler, dial the area code 604 and then the number. For Victoria or Tofino/Ucluelet, dial the area code 250 and then the number.

Calling within Vancouver and Whistler: If you are in Vancouver or Whistler and want to call another number in Vancouver or Whistler, you must use the area code 604, followed by the number.

Calling within Victoria: If you are in Victoria and calling another Victoria number, you do not need to add the area code. If you are calling from Victoria to anywhere else on Vancouver Island, however, you must use the area code 250 before the number.

To make international calls: To call the U.S., dial 1, followed by the area code and phone number. To call the U.K., Ireland, Australia, or New Zealand, first dial 00 and then the country code (U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64), followed by the area code and number.

For directory assistance ("Information"): For automated toll-free directory assistance within Canada (and the U.S.), dial tel. 800/555-1212. You can also dial tel. 411 if you're looking for a number inside Canada. Dial tel. 0 (zero) for numbers to all other countries. (You will incur a charge if you use the 411 and 0 directory assistance numbers.)

For operator assistance: If you need operator assistance making a call, dial tel. 0 (zero).

Toll-free numbers: Numbers within Canada beginning with 800, 866, 877, and 888 are toll-free from the U.S., but calling a 1-800 number in the States from Canada is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

Mobile Phones

Canada is part of the GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use. GSM phones function with a removable plastic SIM card, encoded with your phone number and account information. If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable multiband phone such as many Sony Ericsson, Motorola, or Samsung models, you can make and receive calls across Canada. Just call your wireless operator and ask for "international roaming" to be activated on your account. (Many U.S. cellphones are already equipped with this capability and need no further modification to operate in Canada.)

You can rent a cellphone at a Touristinfo Centre at Vancouver International Airport (Touristinfo Centres are found in both the domestic and international terminals), or in the city at the Vancouver Touristinfo Centre, 200 Burrard St. (tel. 604/683-2000), for a minimum charge (approx. C$50). For current rates and more information, contact the phone provider, Cita Communications (tel. 604/671-4655; www.cita.info).

Internet & Wi-Fi

Almost all hotels in Vancouver and Victoria provide some kind of computer access to guests traveling without their own laptops. In some cases, it's a free public computer in the lobby; in other, more high-end hotels, there may be a charge to use computers in the hotel's business center. To find cybercafes in Vancouver and Victoria, check www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com. For those people traveling with their own computer, almost all hotels, resorts, airports, cafes, and retailers have gone to Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity), offering free high-speed Wi-Fi access or charging a fee for 24-hour usage. In the service information for every hotel in this guide, note whether the hotel offers free Wi-Fi or high-speed Internet access; if not, rates generally average C$15 for 24 hours. Almost invariably, it is large upscale hotels and resorts (such as Westin and the Four Seasons) that charge guests for Internet or Wi-Fi use.

To locate public Wi-Fi "hotspots," go to www.jiwire.com; its Hotspot Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hotspots.