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The location is a bit dubious—on a dodgy bit of Main Street around the corner from the bus depot—but it’s worth braving this transitional neighborhood to check out this great eatery. Step inside, and it’s a cozy but minimalistic room, with pale brick walls, small tables that look like they’re made of plywood, plain gray chairs, and clusters of vintage-looking light bulbs that dangle from the ceiling. Chef Robert Belcham has developed a passion for salume, Italian-style cured meats, and any night you can graze upon a changing selection of his house-made crudo, mortadella, salami, and prosciutto, as well as other antipasti nibbles. Otherwise, it’s all tender-crusted pizzas like the “cardo,” with artichokes and fontina, or hearty, creative pastas, such as the ricotta gnudi with stinging nettles or the tagliatelle with pork ragu. The wine list is all Italian, with some craft beers and a good selection of grappa and vermouth.