You might think from the name that this place would be as obsessed with local ingredients as every other Vancouver eatery seems to be. But no. What chef-owner David Gunawan is obsessed with is really, really good ingredients, wherever they may come from. No one else in the city is cooking like this, which is why his tiny boîte was named Restaurant of the Year in the 2014 Vancouver Magazine Awards. You’ll find it on the bottom floor of a condo building, and it’s so small it would be easy to miss if it weren’t for the sweet smell of wood smoke as you walk by. Inside, the decor is pretty simple, all white walls and rustic wooden tables, with cute touches like enamel cups for water and the floral mural painted on a concrete wall. Plates are all small to medium in size and meant to be shared. The menu changes depending on what chef finds at the market—or what shows up at his back door, like the tiny Peruvian peppers that arrived one day. And everything is out of the ordinary: For instance, you might nibble on a concoction of leeks and cattails with caramelized buttermilk, or snack on smoked olives (Gunawan loves his smoker), or indulge in a tender slice of albacore tuna marinated in coconut milk and served with just a soupçon of Thai curry sauce. The wine, beer, and cocktail list is small but perfectly edited to the food. This is a great little find.
1535 W 6th Ave
Our Rating Neighborhood The West Side Hours Daily 11:30am–2pm, 5:30–10pm. Closed Mondays. Phone 604/620-2079 Prices C$10–C$45 Cuisine Type West Coast Web site Farmer’s Apprentice Other Reservations essential for dinner