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After a couple of hits and misses, Yaletown’s Opus Hotel has finally got its restaurant right with this offshoot of Kitsilano’s popular La Quercia (3689 W. 4th Ave.; [tel] 604/676-1007; www.laquercia.ca). It’s a beautiful space slightly below street level with windows that let in tons of light and offer great people-watching. The moldings, tiled floors, ornamental tin ceiling, and other features of this century-old building have remained, but they’ve ben brightened up with creamy paint, contemporary furnishings, and industrial-looking steel light fixtures. The food, under chef Lucais Syme’s direction, is northern Italian, so you can expect excellent primi (squid ink tagliatelle, pappardelle with fennel sausage), secondi (prosciutto-wrapped rabbit loin, black cod “baccala”), and vegetable side dishes like peas with guanciale and mint. The best option, though, is to tell chef you’d like to dine family style and he’ll just make a fantastic meal for you and your friends. An award-winning wine list just adds to the lovely experience.