Chef-owner Angus An has worked with some of the best Thai chefs in the world, and it shows. That’s why it’s always so busy at this little Kitsilano eatery. The room is fairly small, without any of the kitschy beads-and-elephants decor you see in so many Southeast Asian restaurants. Instead, there are reed screens, a cool granite bar, and bright, white walls. It’s all the better to showcase the gorgeous food. Expect all your favorites—pad Thai, panang curry, papaya salad—and some creative new dishes, like the duck confit salad or warm mushrooms with toasted rice powder, all prepared with exquisitely fresh ingredients and a perfect balance of flavors. There’s also a respectable wine, beer, and cocktail list, and service is attentive in spite of the crush of people. The best bet is to order one of the chef’s set menus—that way you don’t have to make any decisions and can enjoy the best of what the kitchen produces. In 2013, An opened a second location, Longtail Kitchen, at the River Market in New Westminster ([tel] 604/553-3855;