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Most of Vancouver’s high-end Cantonese restaurants are in Richmond and this is one of the few that’s in the city itself. It’s always busy, so make a reservation, then expect to wait, especially if you’re here for dim sum on a weekend. But it’s worth the wait because this is some fine food. The space itself is bright and modern, even a little cold—stark white walls, dark chairs, white tablecloths, few decorative elements—and the curved, dark green stairs from the front door to the restaurant are always crowded with playing children. Whole families come here for the exceptionally fresh seafood. There are live tanks filled with king crabs, spot prawns, and king clams in season and, if you’re up to it, you can pick the one you’d like to dine on. Or you can just go for the famous roast squab, glazed to a mahogany brown and served whole, with the head still on. Still a bit much? Then the Peking duck is a good option, any of the noodle dishes, or the steamed chicken with Chinese mushroom. Your best bet, though, is to come here for the lunchtime feast of small bites called dim sum, mostly dumplings, pork buns, noodles, and tea.