Getting There

Chathams Pacific -- The Friendly Islands Airline (tel. 28-000; www.chathamspacific.com) and Airlines Tonga (tel. 24-506) fly between Tongatapu and Vava'u. Airlines Tonga also has service from Nadi to Vava'u, but I would let The Moorings or your whale-watching operator make my arrangements. Lupepa'u International Airport (VAV) is on the north side of Vauau'u, about 7km (4 1/3 miles) from Neiafu. Most hotels will pick up their guests with reservations, or you can take a taxi to Neiafu for about T$20 (US$10/£5).

The ferries from Nuku'alofa land in Neiafu at Uafu Lahi, which everyone calls the "Big Wharf." From there you can walk or take a taxi ride to your hotel or guesthouse. If you're on foot, turn right on the main street to reach the center of town and the accommodations.

The road from the airport dead-ends at a T-intersection atop the hill above the wharf. The main street runs from there in both directions along the water, with most of the town's stores and government offices flanking it.

Don't Forget to Reconfirm -- It's imperative to reconfirm your return flight to Tongatapu as soon as possible after arriving on Vava'u, and on the morning of your flight. The staff at your hotel can take care of this for you, or drop by the airlines' offices on the main street in Neiafu.

Getting Around

You can explore all of Neiafu on foot, but public transportation to the outlying areas of Vava'u is limited. If you book an excursion, ask about the availability of transportation to and from the event.

Adventure Backpackers Lodge (tel. 70-955) rents mountain bikes for T$20 (US$10/£5) a day.

Taxis are not metered, so be sure you determine the fare before getting in. Falepiu Taxi (tel. 70-671) has a stand opposite the Westpac Bank of Tonga; Liviela Taxi (tel. 70-240) is opposite the Bounty Bar; and Lopaukamea Taxi (tel. 70-153) is at the market. Fares are T$3 (US$1.50/75p) per kilometer, or you can hire one for about T$50 (US$25/£13) per hour, but be sure to negotiate a fare in advance.

Buses and pickup trucks fan out from the market in Neiafu to various villages, but they have no fixed schedule and are not a reliable means of transport. If you take one, make sure you know when and whether it's coming back to town.

Fast Facts

Vava'u is a small place where nearly everyone knows everything.

Currency Exchange -- ANZ Bank and Westpac Bank of Tonga are both on the main street in Neiafu and have ATMs. Banking hours are Monday to Friday 9am to 4pm, with Westpac also open Saturday 8 to 11am.

Drugstores -- Vava'u Pharmacy (tel. 70-212), on the main street opposite the Tonga Visitors Bureau, is open Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday 8:30am to 4pm and Saturday 8:30 to 11am.

Emergencies & Police -- The telephone number for the police is 70-234.

Healthcare -- The government has a small hospital in Neiafu (tel. 70-201).

Information -- The Tonga Visitors Bureau (tel. 70-115; fax 70-666; www.vavau.to) has an office on the main road in Neiafu. Check there for lists of local activities while you're in town. The staff can also help arrange road tours of the island and boat tours of the lagoon. The office is open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 4:30pm. The address is P.O. Box 18, Neiafu, Vava'u.

Internet Access -- Cafe Tropicana, on the main street in Neiafu (tel. 71-322), has Internet access at T$3 (US$1.50/75p) for 15 minutes and T$9 (US$4.50/£2.25) per hour. Down by the harbor, Aquarium Cafe (tel. 70-493) has access for T$8 (US$4/£2) an hour. It's open Monday to Saturday 8am to 8:30pm. Both have wired and wireless access.

Mail -- The post office opposite the wharf is open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 4pm.

Telephone -- Tonga Communications Corporation next to the post office is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week for domestic and long-distance calls. It also has a card phone (there's one next to Westpac Bank of Tonga, too).

Water -- Don't drink the tap water.