The Neiafu waterfront was undergoing many changes during my recent visit, including improvements to its restaurants and bars. One to check out is 'Ana's Waterfront Cafe (tel. 70-664), in front of a lighted cave in the cliff ('Ana is not a woman's name; it means "cave" in Tongan). Another good place to have a drink is the Bounty Bar & Cafe (tel. 70-576), which has great views overlooking Port of Refuge from Neiafu's main street.

A Tongan Feast at the Beach

If you missed a Tongan feast in Nuku'alofa or you just liked it so much you want to go to another, head for Hinakauea Beach Feast (tel. 12-288), which takes place Thursday on lovely Lisa Beach. It costs T$30 (US$15) per person. Inquire at the Paradise International Hotel or the Tonga Visitors Bureau.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.