Ai Due Fanali ★★ -- Originally a wooden oratory frequented by fishermen and farmers (later rebuilt), this beguiling hotel features small but artsy rooms, even for Venice: Headboards have been hand-painted by a local artist, exposed wood beams crisscross the ceiling, and vintage drapes and curtains add a cozy feel (work by Jacopo Palma the Younger, the 16th-century Mannerist painter, adorns the public areas). The bathrooms are embellished with terracotta tiles and Carrera marble. The location is excellent for the train station, while the roof terrace is the best place to soak up a panorama of the city (breakfast is served here). It’s incredibly popular—book months ahead.