Sensational, modestly advertised boutique set in a 17th-century palazzo, with an appealing blend of old and new: The theme is Byzantium east-meets-west, combining elements of Venetian and Asian style, but the rooms are full of cool, modern touches—rainforest showers, flat-screen satellite TVs, bathrobes, slippers and posh toiletries, with a lobby crowned with a Murano glass chandelier. This is a sweaty (in summer) 5-minute walk from the train station—thankfully the air-conditioning is excellent.