Ai Cugnai

The name of this small trattoria means “at the in-laws,” and in that spirit the kitchen knocks out solid, home-cooked Venetian food, beautifully prepared and very popular with locals and hungry gondoliers. The classics are done especially well: The spaghetti vongole here is crammed with sea-fresh mussels and clams, the caprese and baby octopus salad perfectly balanced appetizers, and the house red top value. Our favorite, though, is the sublime spaghetti with scallops, a slippery, salty delight. Just two small tables outside, so get here early if you want to eat alfresco.