This tiny restaurant (with only nine tables, seating for around 25), is the connoisseurs choice for fresh fish and seafood, with a menu that changes frequently and a shrewd selection of wines. Dinner is served at two seatings, where you choose from appetizers such as scallops with cherry tomatoes and orange, and clams that seem to have been literally plucked straight from the sea. The John Dory fillet with aromatic herbs is always an exceptional main choice, but the pastas—ravioli with eggplant and pesto, or the ricotta with prawns, are all superb. Finish off with homemade peach pie or chestnut pudding. In peak season, plan to make reservations at least 1 month in advance, and note that you’ll have a less rushed experience in the second seating.