For simple, no-frills Venetian cuisine with a stellar view across to the spires of Dorsoduro, this Giudecca spot, well off the tourist trail, is hard to beat. Grab a table on the waterside for coffee and cake (most locals take breakfast standing at the bar), or have a sandwich, a more substantial lunch, or sunset spritz (meals usually served noon to 2:30pm; it’s just cicchetti and drinks thereafter). Standouts include the tuna tartare, swordfish carpaccio, and anchovies with pink peppercorns. Some of the friendliest staff in the city seem to work here.