Though it looks a bit like a wood-paneled French bistro, the menu here is primarily old-school Venetian, specializing in rare wines and historical recipes from the 14th to 18th centuries. It’s gimmicky, but it works; think fried soft crabs with artichoke salad; scallops with fennel and squid ink mayonnaise; or suckling pig with spices (civiro), quince, and bitter orange compote. The “historical” tasting menu is a splurge, but we recommend it as the best introduction. Whatever you opt for, expect service to be topnotch. In summer, sit outside in the pleasant side street.