At the columned marketplace in the center of town, Café de La Clef Chez Manu, 1, rue du Conseil (tel. 021/921-22-45), was made famous in 1730 when Jean-Jacques Rousseau used to hang out here. As for decor, the place looks lost in a time capsule back somewhere in the early part of the 20th century, but it remains Vevey's enduring favorite as a worthy hangout at all times of the day or night. The place fills up for lunch with locals devouring such dishes as perch from Lake Geneva. The other much frequented spot is Les Temps Modernes, 6B, rue des Deux Gares (tel. 021/922-27-20;, both a restaurant and a club. It's the French name for Modern Times, one of the most famous films made by Vevey's most famous resident, the late Charlie Chaplin. This club attracts the most diverse group of patrons, from skiers to bankers. With its junky furniture, the club occupies a warehouselike building. If you stay for dinner, the food is excellent, although many visitors come here to enjoy live music performances -- everything from hot salsa nights to concert jazz. There's no cover unless the performers are well known; if they are, you'll pay 25F. It's closed in July and August.

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