Piazza Dei Signori

South of Corso Palladio on the site of the ancient Roman Forum and still the town hub, this central square is your first introduction to the city and local boy wonder Palladio.

The magnificent bigger-than-life Basilica Palladiana is not a church at all and was only partially designed by Palladio. Beneath it stood the Gothic-style Palazzo della Ragione (Law Courts and Assembly Hall) that Palladio was commissioned to convert to a High Renaissance style befitting a flourishing late-16th-century city under Venice's benevolent patronage. It was Palladio's first public work and secured his favor and reputation with the local authorities. He created two superimposed galleries, the lower with Doric pillars, and the upper with Ionic. The roof was destroyed by World War II bombing but has since been rebuilt in its original style. It's open from Easter to September Tuesday to Saturday from 9:30am to noon and from 2 to 7pm; Sunday from 9:30am to 12:30pm and from 2 to 7pm. Off season, it's closed Sunday afternoon; admission is free. Note: The Basilica Palladiana is currently undergoing a lengthy restoration, which will likely last well into 2010.

The 12th-century Torre Bissara (or Torre di Piazza) bell tower belonged to the original church and stands near two columns in the piazza's east end (the Piazza Blade), one topped by the winged lion of Venice's Serene Republic, the other by the Redentore (Redeemer). Also of note in the piazza is the Loggia del Capitaniato (1570), begun but never finished according to plans by Palladio, except for the four massive red-brick columns. Behind the basilica (to the south) is the Piazza delle Erbe, site of the daily produce market.

Corso Andrea Palladio

This is Vicenza's main street, and what a grand one it is, lined with the magnificent palazzi of Palladio and his students (and their students, who, centuries later, were still influenced by Palladio's work), today converted into cafes, swank shops, and imposing banks. The first one of note, starting from its southwest cap near the Piazza Castello, is the Palazzo Valmarana, at no. 16, begun by Palladio in 1566. On the right (behind which stands the Piazza dei Signori and the Basilica Palladiana) is the Palazzo del Comunale, the Town Hall built in 1592 by Scamozzi (1552-1616), a native of Vicenza and Palladio's protégé and star pupil. This is said to be Scamozzi's greatest work.

Heading northeast from the Corso Palladio, take a left onto the Contrà Porti, the second most important street for its Palladian and Gothic palazzi. The two designed by Palladio are the Palazzo Barbarano Porto, at no. 11, and (opposite) Palazzo Thiene, at no.12 (now the headquarters of a bank); Gothic palazzi of particular note can be found at nos. 6 to 10, 14, 16, 17, and 19. Parallel, on Corso Fogazzaro, look for no. 16, Palazzo Valmarana, perhaps the most eccentric of Palladio's works.

Returning to Corso Palladio, look for no. 145/147, the pre-Palladian Ca d'Oro (Golden Palace), named for the gold leaf used in the frescoes that once covered its facade. The simple 16th-century palazzo at no. 163 was Palladio's home.

Before reaching the Piazza Matteotti and the end of the Corso Palladio, you'll see signs for the Church of Santa Corona, set back on the left on the Via Santa Corona 2 (daily 8:30am-noon and 2:30-6pm). An unremarkable 13th-century Gothic church, it shelters two masterpieces (and Vicenza's most important church paintings) that make this worth a visit: Giovanni Bellini's Baptism of Christ (fifth altar on left) and Veronese's Adoration of the Magi (third chapel on right). This is Vicenza's most interesting church, far more so than the cavernous Duomo southwest of the Piazza dei Signori, but worth seeking out only if you've got the extra time. At the end of the Corso Palladio at its northeastern end is Palladio's world-renowned Teatro Olimpico and, across the street, the Museo Civico in the Palazzo Chiericati.

Villas & A Basilica Nearby

To reach the two important villas in the immediate environs of Vicenza, southeast of the train station, you can walk, bike, or take the no. 8 bus. First stop by the tourist office for a map, and check on visiting hours, which tend to change from year to year. The following two villas are generally open from mid-March to early November.

The Villa Rotonda (tel. 0444-321-793; fax 0444-879-1380), alternatively referred to as Villa Capra Valmarana after its owners, is considered one of the most perfect buildings ever constructed and has been added to the World Heritage List by UNESCO; it is a particularly important must-do excursion for students and lovers of architecture. Most authorities refer to it as Palladio's finest work. Inspired by ancient Greek and Roman designs, Palladio began this perfectly proportioned square building, topped by a dome, in 1567; Scamozzi completed it between 1580 and 1592, after Palladio's death. It is worth a visit if only to view it from the outside (in fact, you can really see much of it from the gate). Admission to the grounds for viewing is 4€; admission to visit the lavishly decorated interior is 8€. The grounds are generally open from about March 15 to November 4, Tuesday to Sunday 10am to noon and 3 to 6pm, the interior only Wednesday during the same hours. The villa is private, like many others around Vicenza, and can be closed for a day or week on short notice, so it's always a good idea to call before going, if possible.

From here, it is only a 10-minute walk to the Villa Valmarana (tel. 0444-543-976), also called ai Nani (dwarves) after the statues that line the garden wall. Built in the 17th century by Mattoni, an admirer and follower of Palladio, it is an almost commonplace structure whose reason to visit is an interior covered with remarkable 18th-century frescoes by Giambattista Tiepolo and his son Giandomenico. Admission is 8€, and the villa is open mornings as follows: March 15 to November 5 Wednesday, Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday 10am to noon. It's open afternoons Tuesday to Sunday as follows: March 15 through April, 2:30 to 5:30pm; May through September, 3 to 6pm; and October to November 5, 2 to 5pm. These hours are fungible so it's a good idea to check with the tourist information office.

Also in this area is the Santuario di Monte Berico (tel. 0444-559-411), built in 1668 by a Bolognese architect. If you've already visited the Villa Rotonda, you will understand where the architect got his inspiration. The interior's most important work is in a chapel to the right of the main altar, Lamentation, by Bortolomeo Montagna (1500), one of the Veneto's most famous artists. The terrace in front of the church affords beautiful views of Vicenza, the Monti Berici, and the distinct outline of the nearby Alps. The basilica is open in summer months Monday to Saturday from 6am to 12:30pm and 2:30 to 6:30pm, Sunday 6am to 8pm (it closes earlier in winter months); admission is free.

Seeing Vicenza by Cumulative Ticket

The Card Musei costs 8€ for adults, 6€ for students, and includes admission to the Teatro Olimpico, Museo Civico, Museo Naturalistico Archeologico, and the Galleria di Palazzo Leoni. Children younger than 14 get into every museum for free. For more information, visit www.vicenzae.org.

Festivals

The well-established summertime series of Concerti in Villa (tel. 0444-399-104) takes place in June and July; a few concerts are held outdoors at Vicenza's famed Villa la Rotonda; for others, you will need a car. The tourist office will have the schedule and availability of seats; tickets usually cost around 15€ to 20€. The stage of the delightful Teatro Olimpico (tel. 347-492-5005; www.olimpico.vicenza.it) hosts shows in September and October, often classical plays or Shakespeare, though in 2009 it presented operas by Rossini and Piccinni and music by Bach.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.