Planning a trip to Victoria Falls
Country Codes -- This guide contains phone numbers for three countries. So that you'll know which country each is in, all phone numbers in this section start with the country code as well as the local code. Phone numbers starting with 263 are in Zimbabwe, those starting with 260 are in Zambia, and those beginning with 27 are in South Africa. The Zimbabwean telephone exchange is temperamental (make that hair-tearingly frustrating), and you will find that at certain times of the day, it is impossible to get through to any number. E-mail almost always works, but addresses change often.
The Best Times to Come -- The falls are most impressive from January to April after the summer rains, when up to 700,000 million cubic liters (182,000 million gal.) per minute rush over the 100m-high (328-ft.) lip into the gorge below. The spray can become so thick during this time, however, that it obscures the view. From May, nights can be cold, but it starts to warm up by the end of August. By September and October, at the end of the dry season, the flow is down to about 3%, but the view is clearest. (In Oct and Nov, when the water is very low on the Zambian side, the Zimbabwean side is the better place to be.)
In Zambia
With tourism to this country growing as fast as it is declining in Zimbabwe, the Zambia National Tourism Board is maintaining an up-to-date website (www.zambiatourism.com). For more background information on the destination, with useful (but not necessarily current) trip-planning advice, visit the Getaway website (www.getawaytoafrica.com) for features on Zambia. As Getaway is predominantly aimed at the local South African market, you can put together a trip that will halve costs. Then again, you'll spare yourself some hassle and ensure a smooth trip by dealing directly with www.wilderness-safaris.com and www.kerdowney.com, the two most established Zambian operators, each with a great lodging near Vic Falls, as well as upmarket camps in the big Zambian national parks.
The largest Victoria Falls operator, specializing in the full spectrum of adventure activities (also mostly budget accommodations) and transfers on both sides of the falls, is Safari Par Excellence (tel. 44/845/293-0512; this U.K. number is for an agent, available 24/7; you can also contact them at res@saf-par.co.za or visit www.safpar.com). The Zambia office is at Zambezi Waterfront Lodge, off Mosi-Oa-Tunya Road, halfway between Livingstone and the Vic Falls bridge; if you're traveling from South Africa, contact the local representative at Maplanga Africa (tel. 27/11/794-1446; www.maplanga.co.za).
Safari Par Excellence serves as booking agents for the widest number of activities on and near the falls, and specializes predominantly in accommodating groups of overland travelers. If you're in the U.K. and looking for more personal, discriminatory assistance or considering a more substantial safari adventure into Zambia (which is highly recommended, given that the country is still relatively undiscovered and the bush is wild), contact the London-based Zambia Safari & Travel Company (tel. 44/800/840-1377; www.zambezi.com), a small, independent family-owned safari company serving adventurous spirits from all corners of the globe. U.S. travelers should look no further than Mashinda (info@mashinda.com), headed by Judy Udwin, who personally visits every lodging she recommends and has a great eye for details that count, across the budget spectrum.
In Zimbabwe
To plan your trip on the Zimbabwean side, start by browsing www.gotovictoriafalls.com; it's an excellent site, cohosted by all the tourist stakeholders in Victoria Falls. Low tourism numbers in the village mean that hotel staff, private operators, and other tourist stakeholders will bend over backward to assist you; this website is their initiative and their passion for the village and falls shows.
Money Matters in Zimbabwe -- At independence, Zimbabwe's dollar was worth more than the U.S. dollar; at press time, Zimbabwean dollars are not accepted anywhere -- not even in Zimbabwe, where they are used as fire-starters or toilet paper. Inflation in Zimbabwe was running rampant, at over 230%, until a shaky coalition government suspended the currency in 2009, making foreign currency (dollars, euros, pounds, and rands) the note of legal tender. State price fixing has also been dropped along with high duties on imported foodstuffs, a welcome move that has reduced inflation slightly. In any case, be warned: such basic goods as sanitary towels can be hard to find (though this is less true in Vic Falls village). It's advisable to carry a lot of small denomination notes: Change will not always be available in the currency you offer to pay with. Credit cards are accepted in most accommodations, but plenty of operators won't take them (and certainly the market traders can't), so it is imperative that you also carry some foreign currency (and prepay for as much as you can before arrival). Please also note that MasterCard is not always accepted in Zimbabwe, so make sure you have a Visa or Amex card, or stick to the Zambian side. Visitors are expected to declare the cash they bring into the country but there are no limits on the amount.
Getting Around
The most convenient way to get around is to have your hotel or lodge arrange transfers, or book a hotel within walking distance of the falls (there are a number of options in Vic Falls Village on the Zimbabwean side, and the Royal Livingstone and Zambian Sun are within ambling distance on the Zambian side). Safari Par Excellence offers prearranged transfers anywhere, as well as a shuttle service from both airports and Victoria Falls Village to its Waterfront Lodge (on the Zambian side), where many of the adventure activities take place. Hemingways offers tours and transfers in vehicles that are also wheelchair accessible (www.hemingwayszambia.com); they also hire specialist safari vehicles and will help plan itineraries for those who wish to explore Zambia further.
Victoria Falls Village is a very small town; most attractions (including the falls) are within walking distance or, at worst, a short taxi ride. Taxis are relatively cheap (make sure you negotiate the price up front), but almost all of the hotels and lodges offer a shuttle service to the falls and around town; many of them are complimentary.
Getting Beyond: Sefofane Zambia (www.sefofane.com) recently announced a new flying schedule to collaborate with the photographic safari season. Commencing on May 1, it will operate three times a week, including Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Travelers fly in air-conditioned C208 Cessna Caravans. The route will start in Livingstone, continuing onto Kafue National Park, Lusaka, and back to Livingstone.
By Boat -- A number of companies run breakfast, lunch, bird-watching, and sunset river cruises. All cruises take place on the calmer, game-rich waters of the Upper Zambezi (the area above the falls) and are usually in large, twin-deck boats. It's a wonderful way to enjoy wildlife such as hippos, elephants, and aquatic birds, though you'll probably also see plenty of other tourists. One of the oldest operators is Dabula Safaris, represented by the South African-based African Adrenalin safari company (tel. 27/11/888-4037; www.africanadrenalin.com). If you're averse to crowds, it's worth inquiring about the cruises on smaller (maximum eight people), shallower, propeller-free jet boats; they're a bit more expensive ($95 per person) but quieter, and can explore places larger boats can't access.
By Train -- Board a beautifully restored steam train -- a 1954 Dlass 14A steam locomotive, dining cars, and first-class coaches operated by Victoria Falls Steam Train Company (tel. 263/13/42912, 263/11/203688, or 27/82/294-4684; www.steamtraincompany.com) -- and leave Zimbabwe's Victoria Falls to cross the mighty Zambezi via the Victoria Falls Bridge to Livingstone, Zambia (or vice versa). You can do the bridge run at sunset, voted as one of the World's 15 Most Spectacular Sundowner Spots, or opt for "royal tea" ($120 per person) or the Moonlight Dinner Run ($168 per person). Reservations are essential, with a 20% nonrefundable deposit payable on reservation. Bring your passport, and be aware that rates don't cover visas.
Fast Facts
Banks -- In Zimbabwe, you will need foreign currency. On the Zambian side, you can buy kwacha (Zambian currency) at hotels, or use the ATM at The Falls casino and entertainment center, near the border. Most prices are quoted in U.S. dollars, but getting change on large notes is hard, so it's useful to have some local currency or to carry small dollar denominations.
Business Hours -- Shops are generally open Monday through Saturday from 8am to 5pm. Activity centers and markets are open daily 6am to 6pm; many close only when the last traveler leaves.
Crime -- Despite the political crisis that has almost crippled Zimbabwe, the falls remain largely unaffected and relatively quiet and safe. Hoteliers in Victoria Falls are mindful of the vulnerability of their guests in a place where people are starving, so there's tight security as well as a Tourism Police service (look out for the yellow jackets), with guards patrolling a broad area on foot, horseback, quadbike, and bicycle from 7am to 9pm daily. Avoid petty crime by not flashing valuables, and stay in groups, particularly at night; also stay clear of deserted areas, including the banks of the Zambezi. Bear in mind that Livingstone is a much larger town than Victoria Falls, and many people live here to cash in on tourists; be alert and don't walk around alone.
Doctors -- In Livingstone: Contact Dr. Shafik, 1115 Kateti Rd. (tel. 260/213/32-1130). In Victoria Falls: Contact Dr. Nyoni at Victoria Falls Surgery, West Drive, off Park Way (tel. 263/13/43356; Mon-Fri 9:30am-5pm, Sat 9:30am-5pm, Sun 9:30-5pm; after hours tel. 263/13/40529).
Drugstores -- Drugstores are called chemists or pharmacies. In Livingstone: LF Moore Chemist is the establishment store on Akapelwa Street (tel. 260/213/32-1640). In Victoria Falls: Victoria Falls Pharmacy is located in Phumula Centre, Park Way (tel. 263/13/44403; Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat-Sun 8am-noon). A drugstore in the Kingdom Hotel is open daily.
Electricity -- Electricity in southern Africa runs on 220/230V, 50Hz AC, and sockets in Zimbabwe and Zambia take flat-pinned plugs. Bring an adapter/voltage converter; note that some bush camps have no electricity.
Embassies & Consulates -- All offices are in the capital cities of Harare (Zimbabwe) and Lusaka (Zambia); if you have diplomatic problems, speak to your hotel manager and ask him to contact your country's local representative.
Emergencies -- Your hotel or lodge is your best bet for the safest medical and emergency care. Alternatively, contact Medical Air Rescue Service, a 24-hour emergency evacuation service (tel. 263/13/44764). For an ambulance, call tel. 44210; for the police, call tel. 44206; to report a fire, call tel. 44400; for general emergencies, call tel. 112 or 44206.
Health -- Malaria -- Before leaving, ask your physician about starting a course of antimalarial prophylactics. If you suspect you have malaria, get to a doctor immediately for a test.
Language -- English is spoken in the tourist regions of Zimbabwe and Zambia.
Time Zone -- Both Zimbabwe and Zambia are 5 hours ahead of GMT and 7 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time.
Tipping -- For a meal, leave 10%; for small services such as hotel porters carrying your bags, tip $1 to $3, or the equivalent.
Visas -- Zambia: Thankfully, the Zambian government has slashed visa fees, and single entry now costs $50 (double entry is $80); a daytripper visa costs $20. Zimbabwe: Visa fees depend on nationality. For British nationals, a single entry costs $55 ($70 for double entry). U.S. nationals must pay $45 (this is automatically a double-entry visa). Canadians pay $75. Australians, New Zealanders, and Americans can purchase one for $30 (double entry $45). Do double-check these figures (they tend to change pretty regularly), if you intend to purchase a visa on arrival (visit www.zambiaimmigration.gov.zm).
Water -- Tap water is generally considered safe, but it's worth asking first. You're often better off drinking the bottled water provided in your hotel room, because local water is less processed and may be richer in mineral content than your stomach is used to. The recent cholera outbreaks in Zimbabwe did not affect Victoria Falls, and the area remains cholera free.
Wildlife -- Keep your eye out for elephants and hippos when you're out walking, cycling, or canoeing. Do not block their routes -- it's best not to turn around, but back away slowly. When driving on highways that are part of national parkland, never speed, and keep a watchful eye out for animals emerging from the bush to cross the road. Baboons are a nuisance on both sides of the falls. Keep food out of sight and remember that -- like all wild animals -- they are unpredictable and potentially dangerous.
Getting There
By Plane
From Johannesburg -- The majority of visitors are more likely to arrive on the Zambian side of the falls, at nearby Livingstone International Airport: BA Comair and SAA fly here daily. You might want to compare prices with the daily flights to Victoria Falls International Airport (even if you're heading for the Zambian side, it's relatively easy to arrange a transfer, visas are not expensive, and it's only an hour to Livingstone). Both SAA and BA fly once daily; Air Zimbabwe offers the same route and was recently given a clean bill of health (but, personally, I'd still stick with the big aviation guys).
Most hotels offer a complimentary shuttle from the airport; arrange this in advance. Departure taxes are now included in the price of your air ticket.
By Train -- If you fancy chugging to the falls in style, consider the Shongololo Express Southern Cross Adventure, a 16-day journey that travels leisurely between Victoria Falls and Johannesburg, making calls at destinations in Mozambique, Swaziland, Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe, and South Africa. (tel. 27/11/483-0657, -58, -59; www.shongololo.com; R38,850-R58,000, depending on carriage.)
