Planning a trip to Victoria

Staying Connected

Telephones

Phones in British Columbia are identical to phones in the U.S. The country code is the same as the U.S. code (1). Local calls normally cost C25¢. Many hotels charge C$1 or more per local call and much more for long-distance calls, although more hotels are providing free local service. You can save considerably by using a calling card or your cellphone. You can buy prepaid phone cards in various denominations at grocery and convenience stores.

To call Vancouver or Victoria:

1. If you're calling from outside North America, dial the international access code: 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia. (Omit this step if you're calling from the U.S.)

2. Dial the country code 1.

3. For Vancouver or Whistler, dial the area code 604 and then the number. For Victoria or Tofino/Ucluelet, dial the area code 250 and then the number.

Calling within Vancouver and Whistler: If you are in Vancouver or Whistler and want to call another number in Vancouver or Whistler, you must use the area code 604, followed by the number.

Calling within Victoria: If you are in Victoria and calling another Victoria number, you do not need to add the area code. If you are calling from Victoria to anywhere else on Vancouver Island, however, you must use the area code 250 before the number.

To make international calls: To call the U.S., dial 1, followed by the area code and phone number. To call the U.K., Ireland, Australia, or New Zealand, first dial 00 and then the country code (U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64), followed by the area code and number.

For directory assistance ("Information"): For automated toll-free directory assistance within Canada (and the U.S.), dial tel. 800/555-1212. You can also dial tel. 411 if you're looking for a number inside Canada. Dial tel. 0 (zero) for numbers to all other countries. (You will incur a charge if you use the 411 and 0 directory assistance numbers.)

For operator assistance: If you need operator assistance making a call, dial tel. 0 (zero).

Toll-free numbers: Numbers within Canada beginning with 800, 866, 877, and 888 are toll-free from the U.S., but calling a 1-800 number in the States from Canada is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

Mobile Phones

Canada is part of the GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use. GSM phones function with a removable plastic SIM card, encoded with your phone number and account information. If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable multiband phone such as many Sony Ericsson, Motorola, or Samsung models, you can make and receive calls across Canada. Just call your wireless operator and ask for "international roaming" to be activated on your account. (Many U.S. cellphones are already equipped with this capability and need no further modification to operate in Canada.)

You can rent a cellphone at a Touristinfo Centre at Vancouver International Airport (Touristinfo Centres are found in both the domestic and international terminals), or in the city at the Vancouver Touristinfo Centre, 200 Burrard St. (tel. 604/683-2000), for a minimum charge (approx. C$50). For current rates and more information, contact the phone provider, Cita Communications (tel. 604/671-4655; www.cita.info).

Internet & Wi-Fi

Almost all hotels in Vancouver and Victoria provide some kind of computer access to guests traveling without their own laptops. In some cases, it's a free public computer in the lobby; in other, more high-end hotels, there may be a charge to use computers in the hotel's business center. To find cybercafes in Vancouver and Victoria, check www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com. For those people traveling with their own computer, almost all hotels, resorts, airports, cafes, and retailers have gone to Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity), offering free high-speed Wi-Fi access or charging a fee for 24-hour usage. In the service information for every hotel in this guide, note whether the hotel offers free Wi-Fi or high-speed Internet access; if not, rates generally average C$15 for 24 hours. Almost invariably, it is large upscale hotels and resorts (such as Westin and the Four Seasons) that charge guests for Internet or Wi-Fi use.

To locate public Wi-Fi "hotspots," go to www.jiwire.com; its Hotspot Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hotspots.

Visitor Information

Tourism Victoria Visitor Centre (812 Wharf St.; tel. 800/663-3883 or 250/953-2033; www.tourismvictoria.com) is located on the Inner Harbour, across from the Fairmont Empress Hotel. The center is open daily September through April 9am to 5pm, and May through August 8:30am to 7:30pm.

For details on the after-dark scene, pick up a copy of “Monday Magazine,” available free in cafes around the city; it’s an excellent guide to Victoria’s nightlife and has also driven at least one mayor from office with its award-winning muckraking journalism. The online version (www.mondaymag.com) has detailed entertainment listings.

For more information on Vancouver Island travel, visit the Tourism Vancouver Island site www.vancouverisland.travel. Destination BC has loads of information, travel stories, tips and much more for Victoria and the entire province at www.HelloBC.com. Check the Victoria Times Colonist site (www.timescolonist.com) for the latest news. And to see what other people are saying about Victoria, visit www.tripadvisor.ca.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Every international air traveler entering Canada is required to show a passport. Note: U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U.S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the western hemisphere must now present a passport of other documents such as a passport card, compliant with the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI; visit www. getyouhome.gov for details; the Canada Border Services Agency website is www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca, and is also helpful).

Australia -- Australian Passport Information Service (tel. 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au).

Canada -- Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

Ireland -- Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).

New Zealand -- Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott St., Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).

United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Sq., London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).

United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

Like Canada, Australia and New Zealand are members of the British commonwealth and therefore need no special visas to travel between their respective countries, only a valid passport. U.S. citizens need only a passport to enter Canada. Visit www.cic.gc.ca/english/visit/visas.asp for a complete list of those countries which require a visa to enter or transit Canada.

If you're planning to spend time outside Vancouver and Victoria, you may wish to contact the Vancouver Coast and Mountains Tourism Region (tel. 800/667-3306 or 604/739-9011; www.vcmbc.com). For travel information on Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands, contact Tourism Vancouver Island (501-65 Front St., Nanaimo, BC V9R 5H9; tel. 250/754-3500; www.vancouverisland.travel).

For information about travel and accommodations elsewhere in the province, contact Tourism British Columbia (300-1803 Douglas St., Victoria, BC V8T 5C3; tel. 800/HELLO-BC [800/435-5622] or 250/356-6363; www.hellobc.com).

Customs

You'll pass through Canadian Customs (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada or 204/983-3500) upon arrival and U.S. Customs (tel. 360/332-5771), if you are traveling through the U.S., on your departure.

If you're driving from Seattle, you're most likely to enter British Columbia, Canada, at the Peace Arch crossing (open 24 hr.; often, there's a 30-min. or longer wait) in Blaine, Washington. You'll go through Customs when you cross the border into Canada and will need to show your passport.

Arriving by air, you'll go through Customs at the airport once you clear passport control. (Even if you don't have anything to declare, Customs officials randomly select a few passengers and search their luggage.)

Visitors arriving by train, ferry, or cruise ship from the U.S. pass through U.S. Customs before boarding, and Canadian Customs upon arrival.

What You Can Bring into Canada. Your personal items can include the following: boats, motors, snowmobiles, camping and sports equipment, appliances, TV sets, musical instruments, personal computers, cameras, and other items of a personal or household nature. If you are bringing excess luggage, be sure to carry a detailed inventory list that includes the acquisition date, serial number, and cost or replacement value of each item. It sounds tedious, but it can speed things up at the border. Customs will help you fill out the forms that allow you to temporarily bring in your effects. This list will also be used by U.S. Customs to check off what you bring out. You will be charged Customs duties for anything left in Canada.

A few other things to keep in mind:

If you're over 19, you're allowed to bring in 1.2L (40 oz.) of liquor and wine or 24 355mL (12-oz.) cans or bottles of beer and ale, and 50 cigars, 400 cigarettes, or 397g (14 oz.) of manufactured tobacco per person. Any excess is subject to duty.

Gifts not exceeding C$60 and not containing tobacco products, alcoholic beverages, or advertising material can be brought in duty-free. Meats, plants, and vegetables are subject to inspection on entry. There are restrictions, so contact the Canadian Consulate for more details or check the Canada Border Services Agency website (www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca) if you want to bring produce into the country.

If you plan to bring your dog or cat, you must provide proof of rabies inoculation during the preceding 36-month period. Other types of animals need special clearance and health certification. (Many birds, for instance, require 8 weeks in quarantine.)

If you need more information concerning items you wish to bring in and out of the country, contact Canada Border Services (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

What You Can Take Home from Canada. If you're an international visitor, for information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/227-5511; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0L8 (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise, Crownhill Court, Tailyour Road, Plymouth, PL6 5BZ (tel. 0845/010-9000; www.hmce.gov.uk).

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service, Customs House, 5 Constitution Ave., Canberra City, ACT 2601 (tel. 1300/363-263; from outside Australia, 612/6275-6666; www.customs.gov.au).

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, the Customhouse, 17–21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington, 6140 (tel. 0800/428-786; from outside New Zealand, 649/300-5399; www.customs.govt.nz).

Tips for Senior Travelers

Because BC has the mildest weather in all of Canada, Vancouver and Victoria have become havens for older and retired Canadians. Senior travelers often qualify for discounts at hotels and attractions throughout the area. Always ask; you'll be pleasantly surprised at the number of discounts available. Discount transit passes for persons 65 or older (with proof of age) may be purchased at shops in Vancouver and Victoria that display a FareDealer sign (Safeway, 7-Eleven, and most newsstands). To locate a FareDealer vendor, contact BC Transit (tel. 604/521-0400; www.transitbc.com).

If you're 50 or older, consider joining AARP (3200 E. Carson, Lakewood, CA 90712; tel. 800/424-3410; www.aarp.org); their card offers additional restaurant and travel bargains throughout North America.

Escorted & Package Tours

Special-Interest Trips

Both Vancouver and Victoria are fit, outdoors-oriented cities with plenty of opportunities to explore urban activities alongside soft adventures. You'll find special low-impact walking tours and ecotours in and around Vancouver and Victoria. Organized tours of various sorts are also available in Whistler, and they're especially popular in and around Tofino and the Pacific Rim National Park on the west coast of Vancouver Island.

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

Uniglobe Specialty Travel (tel. 800/455-0007 or 604/688-8816; www.uniglobespecialtytravel.com) in Vancouver offers multiday escorted tours of Vancouver and Victoria, highlighting the major attractions in both cities. Globus Tours (tel. 866/755-8581; www.globusjourneys.com), one of the largest tour companies in the U.S., provides escorted tours throughout Western Canada, including Vancouver and Victoria, as part of a larger west coast itinerary.

Package Tours

Package tours are simply a way to buy the airfare, accommodations, and other elements of your trip (such as car rentals, airport transfers, and sometimes even activities) at the same time and often at discounted prices.

One good source of package deals is the airlines themselves. Air Canada Vacations (tel. 888/247-2262; www.aircanadavacations.com) offers an array of package deals covering a whole series of travel bargains ranging from city packages to fly/drive tours, escorted tours, motor-home travel, and ski holidays. Other airlines with Canadian package holidays include American Airlines (tel. 800/321-2121; www.aavacations.com), Delta (tel. 800/800-1504; www.deltavacations.com), Continental Airlines (tel. 800/301-3800; www.covacations.com), and United (tel. 888/854-3899; www.unitedvacations.com).

Several big online travel agencies -- Expedia, Travelocity, Orbitz, and Lastminute.com -- also do a brisk business in packages.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- The telephone area code for all of Vancouver Island, including Victoria and most of British Columbia, is 250.

ATMS & Banks -- You’ll find 24-hour PLUS and Cirrus bank machines just about anywhere you need to be—shopping areas, bars, nightclubs, sports arenas, and, of course, banks. The major Canadian banks include BMO Bank of Montreal, CIBC, HSBC, RBC Royal Bank, Scotiabank, and TD Canada Trust. Remember that if you withdraw money from a bank that is not your own, it will likely charge you an additional fee.

Business Hours -- Most stores and other businesses are generally open Monday through Saturday 10am–6pm. Some establishments are open later, as well as on Sundays, especially in summer. Restaurants may open only for dinner (starting at 5pm). Last call at the city’s bars and cocktail lounges is 2am.

Customs -- You’ll pass through Canadian Customs upon arrival and U.S. Customs if you are traveling through the U.S. on your departure. Remember that you will need a passport to enter Canada. Also, there are restrictions on alcohol, plant materials, cash, gifts, cigarettes, certain foodstuffs, and pets coming into Canada, so if you have any concerns or questions, check with Canada Border Services (tel. 800/461-9999; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

Disabled Travelers -- Both Vancouver and Victoria have made it a priority to be as accessible as possible for people with disabilities. Except perhaps in some of the oldest neighborhoods, you can find wheelchair-accessible entrances, ramps, and walkways throughout both cities, as well as beeping signals for the visually impaired. Buses and transit stations almost always have lifts for wheelchairs. All public spaces, including restaurants, must offer wheelchair-accessible restrooms, and most hotels also have specially equipped rooms for those in wheelchairs, as well as visual smoke alarms for the hearing impaired. For more information, visit the Government of Canada site www.accesstotravel.gc.ca. In addition, Tourism Victoria (www.tourismvictoria.com/plan/travel-tips/special-needs) has resources for travelers with disabilities.

Doctors & Dentists -- Most major hotels have a doctor and dentist on call. Victoria does not have any 24-hour dental or medical clinics, but it does have several hospitals for emergencies, including Royal Jubilee Hospital on Fort Street (tel. 250/370-8000). Some medical clinics do, however, have extended hours and accept walk-in patients, such as the Tillicum Mall Medical Clinic, which is open daily 9am to 9pm (3170 Tillicum Rd.; tel. 250/381-8112; www.tillicummedicalclinic.ca). Also in the Tillicum Mall, the Cresta Dental Centre (tel. 250/384-7711; www.crestadental.ca) is open 7 days a week, with extended hours Monday through Friday.

Drinking Laws -- British Columbia’s antiquated liquor laws are undergoing a massive and keenly anticipated overhaul, so much could change in the future. Currently beer, wine, and spirits are sold in government liquor stores and a handful of private liquor or artisan-producer stores. However, in summer 2014, some farmers’ markets began sampling and selling alcohol; within a year or two, alcohol will also likely be available in grocery stores. What will not change is the legal drinking age—19—and the blood-alcohol limit for driving—0.05 mg per 100 mL, or about one drink.

Drug Stores -- The two main drug store chains in Western Canada are Shoppers Drug Mart and BC’s own London Drugs, although some supermarkets and mass retailers also have pharmacies, and there are smaller, independent drug stores as well. For a 24-hour pharmacy in Victoria, go to the Shoppers at 3511 Blanshard St., tel. 250/475-7572.

Electricity -- As in the U.S., electric current is 110 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220 to 240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220 to 240 volts to 110 to 120 volts are difficult to find in North America, so bring one with you. Plugs have two flat prongs, so you may need an adapter as well. Many electronics such as laptops and tablets are fine with the voltage change, but check with the manufacturer beforehand just to be sure.

Embassies & Consulates -- If you lose your passport or run into any other difficulties, contact your embassy or consulate for help. Here are some of the main Vancouver addresses; check the Yellow Pages for other countries.

Australia: 2050-1075 W. Georgia St.; tel. 604/684-1177; www.canada.embassy.gov.au

Ireland: 210–837 Beatty St.; tel. 604/683-9233; www.embassyofireland.ca

New Zealand: 2250-1050 Pender St.; tel. 604/684-7388; www.nzembassy.com

United Kingdom: 800–1111 Melville St.; tel. 604/683-4421; ww2.britainincanada.org

United States: 1075 W. Pender St.; tel. 604/685-4311; www.vancouver.usconsulate.gov

Emergencies -- Dial tel. 911 for fire, police, ambulance, and poison control. This is a free call.

Family Travel -- Victoria is one of the most child-friendly cosmopolitan cities in the world. In addition to the standard attractions and sights, you’ll find a lot of free, adventurous, outdoor activities that both you and your kids will enjoy

Health -- Medical standards in Canada are very high, so should you fall ill during your visit, you will be in good hands. If you need a doctor, your hotel can help you find a reliable one. You will not have to undergo a credit check before being treated, unless you visit a private clinic rather than a public hospital, although some procedures—such as MRIs—may not be covered by your insurance. In all cases, make sure your travel insurance is up to date and that you are aware of what, exactly, it covers. Also, keep in mind that prescription drugs can be significantly less expensive in Canada.

In addition, those with food allergies and aversions will be pleased to know that both Vancouver and Victoria are world leaders in accommodating dietary restrictions. And the tap water is perfectly safe to drink in B.C.; in fact, it’s some of the cleanest, tastiest drinking water around.

Insurance -- For information on traveler’s insurance, trip cancelation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Internet Access -- Most hotels offer Internet access and it’s quite often free, at least in public areas. Many downtown cafes also offer free Wi-Fi, including the ubiquitous Starbucks chain. And the Greater Victoria Public Library (tel. 250/382-7241; www.gvpl.ca) also offers free Wi-Fi to the public at all its locations, including the main branch at 735 Broughton St.

Legal Aid -- In case of trouble with the authorities, international visitors should call their embassy or consulate. If you are accused of a serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer.

LGBT Travelers -- Since 2003, when British Columbia legalized same-sex marriage, Vancouver and Victoria have become favored sites for gay and lesbian weddings and elopements.

Mail & Postage -- The Victoria Main Post Office is located at 706 Yates St. For other locations, many of which are within other retail locations, look for a “Postal Services” sign. At press time, letters and postcards up to 30 grams cost C65ce to mail within Canada, C$1.10 to mail to the U.S., and C$1.85 for overseas airmail service. For more information, call tel. 866/606-6301 or visit www.canadapost.ca.

Mobile Phones -- Canada is part of the GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use. GSM phones function with a removable plastic SIM card, encoded with your phone number and account information. If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable multiband phone, you can make and receive calls across Canada. Just call your wireless operator and ask for “international roaming” to be activated on your account. (Many U.S. cellphones are already equipped with this capability and need no further modification to operate in Canada.) To save money on roaming charges, you can also unlock your phone and buy a prepaid Canadian SIM card.

Money & Costs -- Until recently, the Canadian dollar was enjoying an extended period of economic strength. In recent months, though, its value has fallen against other currencies, driving up prices for many goods and services. Still, you can often find special discounts for children and seniors, as well as plenty of free things to do.

It’s worth noting that the C$1 and C$2 bills have been replaced by coins known, respectively, as the “loonie” (because it has the bird known as a loon on one side) and the “toonie,” because it’s worth two loonies. It’s wise to carry a few—you’ll need them for parking meters, tips, and incidentals. Aside from that, credit and debit cards are widely accepted, though additional charges are often added when you use them. Most establishments will also accept American currency, but stores and restaurants typically offer poor exchange rates. Withdrawing cash from an ATM usually gives you the best exchange rate. For the most up-to-the-minute rates, consult www.xe.com.

Packing Tips -- No matter what time of year you travel to Victoria, you will want to pack layers, comfortable walking shoes, and rain gear, including a waterproof jacket and umbrella. For more helpful information on packing, go to www.frommers.com and follow the links to the “Packing Tips” section of the website.

Passports -- All international travelers entering Canada are required to carry a valid passport. U.S. citizens who are members of NEXUS or FAST programs and are entering Canada by land or sea may use their membership cards as proof of identity instead.

Pharmacies -- For a 24-hour pharmacy, visit the Shoppers Drug Mart at 3511 Blanshard St. (tel. 250/475-7572; www1.shoppersdrugmart.ca).

Police -- Dial tel. 911 for fire, police, ambulance, and poison control. This is a free call. For non-emergencies, the Vancouver City Police can be reached at tel. 604/717-3321.

Safety -- Victoria is an exceptionally safe city, with few areas that are dangerous to explore after dark. That said, pickpockets follow wherever crowds gather, so remain alert and watch your possessions. Also, a fair number of panhandlers and homeless people tend to congregate on Douglas Street. They are rarely dangerous, but they can be unpredictable, so just be aware of your surroundings at all times.

Student Travel -- Obtain an International Student Identity Card (ISIC) and you will be eligible for a variety of discounts on accommodation, transportation, goods, and services. Visit isiccanada.ca for details.

Students will also find inexpensive accommodation at youth hostels run by Hostelling International in Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, and Tofino. For membership information, visit the Hostelling International websites at www.hiusa.org and www.hihostels.ca.

Travel CUTS (tel. 800/667-2887; www.travelcuts.com) is a great source for inexpensive accommodation, transportation, advice, and more for students and young travellers in general.

Taxes -- After a brief and controversial period under a harmonized sales tax (HST), B.C. has returned to its old system of a 5 percent Goods and Services Tax (GST) plus a 7 percent Provincial Sales Tax (PST). Most goods and many services carry both taxes, but some only carry the GST and sometimes the PST is higher than 7 percent, so don’t be surprised if you encounter confusion at the till.

Most accommodations charge an 8 percent PST on top of the GST, as well as a Municipal and Regional District Tax (MRDT) of up to 2 percent. Food at restaurants carries only the 5 percent GST, but alcoholic beverages come with a hefty 10 percent PST on top of the GST. And no, there is no tax rebate program for visitors.

Tipping -- Service is rarely included in your bill, so expect to tip in restaurants and hotels just as you would in the U.S. In general, follow these guidelines:

In hotels, tip bellhops at least C$1 per bag, more if you have a lot of luggage or are staying in a high-end property. Leave the chamber staff at least C$2 a day, more if you are staying in a posh hotel or you have left behind a big mess. Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service, and tip the valet-parking attendant C$2 every time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff and bartenders 15 percent to 20 percent of the check, tip coatroom attendants C$2 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants C$2 per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip cab drivers 15 percent of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least C$1 per bag (C$2–C$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15 percent to 20 percent.

Toilets -- You won’t find public toilets on the streets in either Vancouver or Victoria, or at least not any you would want to use, but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Note that Canadians typically call these facilities “washrooms” rather than “restrooms.”

Visitor Information --  Contact Tourism Victoria Visitor Centre (812 Wharf St.; tel. 800/663-3883 or 250/953-2033; www.tourismvictoria.com)

For information about travel and accommodations elsewhere in the province, contact Destination British Columbia (tel. 800/435-5622; www.hellobc.com).

When to Go

A rainforest species like the western red cedar needs at least 76cm (30 in.) of precipitation a year. Vancouver gets about 116cm (46 in.) a year, a cause for celebration among the local cedar population. Homo sapiens simply learn to adjust.

Most of that precipitation (usually in the form of showers and drizzle, not downpours) arrives in the winter, when (with a 30-min. drive to the mountains) you can trade the rain for snow. Skiing and snowboarding are popular from mid-December until the mountain snowpack melts away in June. Except in Whistler, hotels in the winter are quieter and the restaurants less busy.

Both Vancouver and Victoria enjoy moderately warm, sunny summers and mild, rainy winters; their weather is the mildest in Canada. Victoria gets half as much rain as Vancouver (58cm/23 in.), thanks to the sheltering Olympic Peninsula to the south and its own southeasterly position on huge Vancouver Island. You can find current weather conditions for Vancouver at http://vancouver.weatherpage.ca.

Around mid-February, the winds begin to slacken, the sun shines a bit more, the buds on the cherry trees appear, and early daffodils blossom. By late-March, azaleas, rhododendrons, and most other flowers are in bloom, and the sun is more frequent though this doesn't always hold through April, which can serve up a bit of everything from glorious warmth to sudden arctic chills.

June sees more sun per summer day than farther south (mid-June sees 16 hr. of daylight). Only 10% of the annual rainfall occurs during the summer months, and the sun stays out through summer until the rains close in again in mid-October. These spring/summer/early autumn months are prime visiting time and when most visitors arrive. The first cruise ships start appearing in late April/early May.

Holidays

The official British Columbia public holidays are as follows: New Year's Day (Jan 1); Good Friday, Easter, Easter Monday (Apr 9, 2012); Victoria Day (May 21, 2012); Canada Day (July 1); British Columbia Day (first Monday in Aug); Labour Day (Sept 3, 2012); Thanksgiving (Oct 8, 2012); Remembrance Day (Nov 11); Christmas (Dec 25); and Boxing Day (Dec 26).

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

In 2006, after years of protests and negotiations by First Nations tribes and environmentalists, Canada declared British Columbia's Great Bear Rainforest off-limits to loggers. This landmark decision preserves the largest remaining temperate coastal rainforest in the world, some 6 million hectares (15 million acres) that are home to rare white bears and support the highest concentration of grizzly bears in North America. It must also be noted that much of British Columbia's economy is based on "resource extraction" of one kind or another, logging being the most prevalent.

Vancouver and Victoria are meccas of ecotourism in all its many guises. From patronizing restaurants that use only locally harvested foods (the 110-mile diet was conceived in Vancouver) and non-endangered fish to enjoying natural, nonpolluting fun by paddling kayaks and hiking through beautiful rainforests, you can enjoy green holidays in both of these cities without sacrificing any fun or flavor. Many hotels in both cities take green practices so seriously that they've almost turned sustainability into a one-upmanship competition. Incidentally, if you're ordering fish, look for the "Ocean Wise" logo on the menu -- it indicates what fresh, non-endangered fish has been sustainably harvested for the restaurant.

See www.frommers.com/planning for more tips on responsible travel.

Tips for Families

Vancouver and Victoria are two of the most child-friendly cosmopolitan cities in the world. Where else would you find a market especially for kids? In addition to the standard attractions and sights, you'll find a lot of free, adventurous, outdoor activities that both you and your kids will enjoy. Recommended family travel websites include Family Travel Forum (www.familytravelforum.com), a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning; Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), an online magazine providing travel tips; and Travelwithyourkids.com, a comprehensive site written by parents, for parents, offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children.

Calendar of Events

The various festivals and special events held in Vancouver and Victoria every year draw tens of thousands of visitors and reflect an extraordinary diversity of cultures. Things may seem a little quiet in the winter and early spring, but that's because most residents simply head for the ski slopes. Resorts in Whistler Blackcomb (tel. 800/944-7853; www.whistler.com) have events happening nearly every weekend. If no contact number or location is given for any of the events listed below, Tourism Vancouver (tel. 604/683-2000; www.tourismvancouver.com) can provide further details.

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

Annual Bald Eagle Count, Goldstream Provincial Park, Vancouver Island. Hundreds of bald eagles take up residence to feed on the salmon, which begin to run in October. The eagle count usually takes place in mid- to late January, when the numbers peak. Throughout December and January, the park offers educational programs, displays, and guest speakers. Call tel. 250/478-9414 or visit www.goldstreampark.com for dates.

February

Chinese New Year, Chinatown. Late January or early February.

Trumpeter Swan Festival, Comox Valley. A weeklong festival celebrates these magnificent white birds as they gather in the Comox Valley. Check dates with the Vancouver Island tourist office (tel. 250/754-3500).

March

Pacific Rim Whale Festival, Tofino, Ucluelet, and Pacific Rim National Park. Every spring, more than 20,000 gray whales migrate past this coastline, attracting visitors to Vancouver Island's west coast beaches. The event features live crab races, storytelling, parades, art shows, guided whale-spotting hikes, and whale-watching boat excursions. Call tel. 250/726-4641 or visit www.pacificrimwhalefestival.com for more information. Mid-March to early April.

May

Swiftsure International Yacht Race. International sailing races make for spectacular scenery on the waters around Victoria. For information, call tel. 250/953-2033 or visit www.tourismvictoria.com. Third or fourth weekend in May.

June

JazzFest International. Jazz, swing, bebop, fusion, and improv artists from across the globe perform at various venues around Victoria during this 10-day festival (tel. 250/388-4423; www.jazzvictoria.ca). Late June/early July.

July

Canada Day. Victoria, the provincial capital, celebrates this national holiday with events centered on the Inner Harbour, including music, food, and fireworks. July 1.

Organic Island Festival & Sustainability Expo. Little wonder that this young, annual event is gaining traction in the mainstream. More than 150 exhibits and displays share all sorts of "green" and intriguing ideas for energy savings, food cultivations, and more at Victoria's Glendale Gardens. Call tel. 250/658-8148 for information or visit www.organicislands.ca.

Victoria Pride Celebration. Victoria's gay and lesbian community celebrates with a week of activities that culminates in a downtown parade and festival at Fisherman's Wharf Park. For more info, visit www.victoriapridesociety.org. First week in July.

August

First Peoples Festival. This free event highlights the heritage of the Pacific Northwest First Nations with performances, carving demonstrations, and cultural displays at the Royal BC Museum (tel. 250/384-3211). Second week in August.

Fringe Festival. Anything goes at this annual alternative-theater festival. The festival is a 12-day celebration of some of the most innovative theater offered anywhere in the country. For more information, call tel. 250/383-2663 or visit www.intrepidtheatre.com. Late August/early September.

Victoria Dragon Boat Fest. Although a smaller version to Vancouver's races, the races are just as exciting. More than 90 teams help to transform the entire Inner Harbour into action central with food vendors, street performers, and pageantry. Check out www.victoriadragonboat.com for details.

September

Classic Boat Festival. Boaters from around the world converge in Victoria's Inner Harbour for this annual Labour Day–weekend celebration, which includes races, a parade of steam vessels, a cruise up the Gorge Waterway, and vessels open for tours. For more information, call tel. 250/383-8306 or visit www.classicboatfestival.ca. First weekend in September.

The Great Canadian Beer Festival. Featuring samples from the province's best microbreweries, this event is held at the Victoria Conference Centre, 720 Douglas St. For more information, call tel. 250/383-2332. Early September.

October

Royal Victoria Marathon. This annual race attracts runners from around the world (there's a half-marathon course available, too). Call tel. 250/658-4520 or go to www.royalvictoriamarathon.com for more info. Early October (Canadian Thanksgiving weekend).

November

Remembrance Day. November 11.

December

First Night. The Inner Harbour becomes the venue for street performers, music, food vendors, and a fireworks show. Very family friendly. Drinking is prohibited. Call Tourism Victoria at tel. 250/953-2033 for more details. December 31.

Money

Canadian monetary units are dollars and cents, with dollar notes issued in different colors. The standard denominations are C$5, C$10, C$20, C$50, and C$100. The "loonie" (so named because of the loon on one side) is the C$1 coin that replaced the C$1 bill. A C$2 coin, called the "toonie" because it's worth two loonies, has replaced the C$2 bill.

Note: If you're driving, it's a good idea to have a pocketful of toonies and loonies for parking meters. Avoid C$100 bills when exchanging money, as many stores refuse to accept these bills. Almost all stores and restaurants accept American currency, and most will exchange amounts in excess of your dinner check or purchase. However, these establishments are allowed to set their own exchange percentages and generally offer the worst rates of all.

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates.

The favorable exchange rate of the Canadian dollar against the U.S. dollar, the British pound, and the euro gives added value to whatever you buy. In 2011, the Canadian dollar grew considerably stronger, and at press time was virtually at par with the U.S. dollar. The Canadian dollar also gained strength against the British pound, the euro, and the Australian and New Zealand dollars. To offset this change, and because of the recession, hotels and restaurants have generally reduced their prices or kept them the same as last year. Prices in Vancouver are generally a bit higher than in Victoria.

From mid-September to April, prices for hotel rooms in both cities generally drop by at least 20%, and sometimes as much as 50%; the exception to this is Whistler, where winter is the high season and prices rise accordingly. The prices we've listed in "What Things Cost," below, are approximate.

ATMs

The easiest and best way to get cash in Vancouver and Victoria is from an ATM. The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on, then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) before you leave home, and be sure to find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Many banks impose a fee every time a card is used at a different bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions than for domestic ones. On top of this, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee.

The 24-hour PLUS and Cirrus ATM systems are widely available throughout British Columbia. The systems convert Canadian withdrawals to your account's currency within 24 hours. Cirrus network cards work at ATMs at BMO Bank of Montreal (tel. 800/555-3000), CIBC (tel. 800/465-2422), HSBC (tel. 888/310-4722), RBC Royal Bank (tel. 800/769-2511), TD Canada Trust (tel. 866/567-8888), and at all other ATMs that display the Cirrus logo.

Credit & Debit Cards

Major U.S. credit cards are widely accepted in British Columbia, especially American Express, MasterCard, and Visa. British debit cards like Barclay's Visa are also accepted. Diners Club, Carte Blanche, Discover, JCB, and EnRoute are taken by some establishments, but not as many. The amount spent in Canadian dollars will automatically be converted by your issuing company to your currency when you're billed -- generally at rates that are better than you'd receive for cash at a currency exchange. However, the bank will probably add a 3% "adjustment fee" to the converted purchase price. You can also obtain a PIN for your credit card and use it in some ATMs. You usually pay interest from the date of withdrawal and often pay a higher service fee than when using a regular ATM card.

Beware of hidden credit-card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country -- even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer's convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

What Things Cost in C$

Transfer to/from airport (transit/taxi) 4.00/45.00

Double room, moderate 200.00–300.00

Three-course dinner for one, without wine, moderate 40.00–50.00

Glass of wine 7.00–10.00

Double latte 3.75

Cup of coffee 1.75

Getting Around

By Foot

If you’re planning to spend your time in the downtown area, you can easily walk just anywhere you want to go. In fact, with its safe streets, mild climate, largely flat landscape, and compact environs, Victoria is a fantastic walking city. It’s the best way to see the things you want to see, and discover all sorts of myriad unexpected treasures. Wear comfy shoes, and bring a shopping bag.

By Bus

The Victoria Regional Transit System (tel. 250/382-6161; www.bctransit.com) operates some 40 bus routes through greater Victoria, as well as the nearby towns of Sooke and Sidney, and as far as Butchart Gardens and the ferry terminal in Swartz Bay. Regular service on the main routes runs daily from 6am to just past midnight. BC Transit also offers trip-planning help with Google Transit through Google Maps. A single fare is C$2.50, while a book of 10 tickets is C$23, and a DayPASS, which covers unlimited travel for a day, is only C$5, making it a good deal for visitors. You can purchase tickets or passes anywhere you see a “Faredealer” sign, as well as at the Tourism Victoria Visitor Centre, where you can also pick up schedules and route maps.

By Ferry

Crossing the Inner, Upper, and Victoria harbors aboard one of the green and yellow 12-passenger Victoria Harbour Ferries (tel 250/708-0201; www.victoriaharbourferry.com) is cheap, practical, and fun. There are a number of options—a water taxi service that will take you directly to your stop, the 45-minute guided harbor tours, a 60-minute guided tour of the Gorge Water Way, private charters, and the ever-popular Pickle Pub Crawls. Between May and September, the ferries transport revelers to and from Victoria’s finest harbor pubs, and every group of four will receive a free appetizer at each stop. Prices vary from C$5 for a single stop in the Inner Harbour to C$15 for the pub crawl and C$44 for a combination harbor and Gorge tour.

The Ferry Ballet -- Starting at 10:45am every Sunday from May to September, the Victoria Harbour Ferries gather in front of the Fairmont Empress to perform a must-be-seen-to-be-believed ferry “ballet”—and they’ve been doing this every weekend since the ferries first arrived here 21 years ago.

By Car

If you are planning to stick to downtown and the main attractions, you can get wherever you need to go by foot or by transit. But if you do plan to venture further afield, a car will make things a lot easier. You can rent a car at the airport or downtown on Douglas Street at one of the following agencies: Avis (tel. 800/879-2847 or 250/386-8468; www.avis.ca), Budget (tel. 800/268-8900 or 250/953-5300; www.budgetvictoria.com), Hertz (tel. 800/263-0600 or 250/952-3765; www.hertz.ca), and National (tel. 800/387-4747 or 250/386-1828; www.nationalcar.ca).

Metered street parking is widely available downtown, but since many meters have a centralized location, remember that you’ll need to make a note of your space number before you head to the machine. Unmetered parking is very rare, but parking rates are pretty reasonable compared to other Canadian cities. Rates are C$2.50 for an hour, free on Sundays and statutory holidays. Pay ’N Go meters accept coins, credit cards, and the new city parking card. All major hotels have guest parking and parking lots can be found throughout the downtown.

Driving in Victoria can be bafflingly frustrating, especially for such a small city without much traffic volume. The locals tend to putter along well under the speed limit, while aggressive young drivers from up-Island blast through town at warp speeds and visitors blunder along in a haze of confusion, trying to figure out the system of one-way streets that seem to randomly change names once they leave the downtown core. Meanwhile, the city’s pedestrians think nothing of stepping out blindly mid-block in the middle of heavy traffic, while flocks of cyclists seem to appear from nowhere. Take a deep breath and be patient.

By Bicycle

Victoria is considered the cycling capital of Canada, and certainly it is the easiest way to get around the downtown and beach areas. The city has numerous bike lanes and paved paths in parks and along beaches. Helmets are mandatory, and riding on sidewalks is illegal, except where bike paths are indicated. You can rent bikes starting at C$7 per hour and C$28 per day (lock and helmet included) from Cycle BC (685 Humboldt St.; tel. 866/380-2453 or 250/380-2453; www.cyclebc.ca).

By Taxi

Within the downtown area, you can expect to travel to most destinations for less than C$10, plus tip. It’s best to call for a cab; you won’t have much luck if you try to flag one down on the street since drivers don’t always stop, especially when it’s raining. Call for a pickup from Yellow Cabs (tel. 250/381-2242) or Blue Bird Cabs (tel. 250/382-2222).

By Pedi-cab

Sit back and enjoy a fully guided tour of Victoria’s most popular attractions from one of these two- or four-seat bicycle-powered cabs. Special packages are available for cruise ship guests or for those who want to explore Victoria’s secrets, as well as those who want to customize their own experiences. Prices vary, but start at around C$15 per guest per half-hour, depending on the experience. Contact Victoria Pedicab Tours to see what they have scheduled or to set up your own excursion (tel. 250/884-0121; www.victoriatours.net).

Tips for Student Travelers

The southwestern corner of BC is definitely student-oriented territory, and you'll find inexpensive youth hostels run by Hostelling International in Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, and Tofino. These hostels make traveling in BC affordable and fun. For membership information, check the Hostelling International websites at www.hiusa.org and www.hihostels.ca.

The University of British Columbia (UBC, with more than 30,000 students) in the Point Grey area, Burnaby's Simon Fraser University, and a number of smaller schools contribute to the enormous student population in Vancouver. Student travelers have a lot of free and inexpensive entertainment options, both day and night. Pick up a copy of Georgia Straight to find out what's happening. Many attractions and theaters offer discounts if you have your student ID with you. While many establishments will accept a school ID, the surest way to obtain student discounts is with an International Student Identity Card (ISIC).

In Victoria, the University of Victoria (referred to locally as "U. Vic.") has a sprawling campus just east of downtown. The student population accounts for most, if not all, of Victoria's nightlife. Student discounts abound. Pick up a copy of Victoria's weekly paper, Monday Magazine (which comes out on Thurs), for current nightclub listings.

Neighborhoods in Brief

Downtown -- Also called Old Town, this area has been the city’s social and commercial focal point since the mid-1800s, when settlers first arrived by ship. This is also the area of the city most popular with visitors, filled with shops, museums, heritage buildings, and lots of restaurants. The area’s fascinating Barbary Coast history—which includes rum smuggling, opium importing, gold prospecting, whaling, fur trading, and shipping—is reflected in the hundreds of heritage buildings, once home to chandleries, warehouses, factories, whorehouses, and gambling dens.

Chinatown -- Victoria’s Chinatown is tiny—only 2 square blocks—but venerable. In fact, it’s the second oldest Chinese community in North America (after San Francisco). At one time, legal opium manufacturing took place in the hidden courtyard buildings flanking the 1.2m-wide (4-ft.) Fan Tan Alley, Canada’s narrowest commercial street.

James Bay, Ross Bay, Rockland & Oak Bay -- When Victoria was a busy port and trading post, the local aristocracy would retire to homes in these neighborhoods to escape the hustle and bustle in the city center. Today, they remain beautiful residential communities. Houses are perched on hills overlooking the straits or nestled amidst lushly landscaped gardens. Golf courses, marinas, and cozy inns edge the waters, where you can stroll the beaches or take a dip if you don’t mind the chilly water.

Fernwood -- This charming residential neighborhood may not have any oceanfront to boast of, but it makes up for it with plenty of character. Home mostly to young families and creative professionals, its tree-lined streets are filled with heritage homes, popular restaurants, quirky boutiques, and the historic Belfry Theatre.

Victoria West -- Once the city’s industrial zone, this area across the Johnson Street Bridge is now among its trendiest neighborhoods, especially for young professionals who enjoy the proximity to downtown. Several new condo developments have gone up here, and the area has plenty of bike trails, walkways, parks, and cool eateries to feed all those newcomers.

Saanich -- This is the part of the city you’ll drive past on your way north and east to the ferry terminal. It’s largely a suburban residential area of neighborhoods such as Quadra, Gordon Head, and Cordova Bay, which may be great places to live, but don’t offer many attractions to the visitor. However, if you travel further out on the Saanich Peninsula, you will come across Butchart Gardens, Sea Cider, and the charming little town of Sidney-by-the-Sea, with its many bookstores.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Since 2003, when the Province of British Columbia announced the legalization of same-sex marriage, Vancouver and Victoria have become favored sites for gay and lesbian weddings. (Same-sex marriage is now legal throughout Canada.) Information about the process is listed on the invaluable www.gayvan.com website. Vancouver's official tourism website, www.tourismvancouver.com, also has information for gay and lesbian travelers.

What San Francisco is to the United States, Vancouver is to Canada -- a hip, laid-back town with a large, thriving gay community. In fact, the largest gay population in Western Canada lives here, primarily in the West End and Commercial Drive. You'll find hotels and restaurants in Vancouver to be very gay friendly. (The straight-friendly West End Guest House is owned and operated by a married gay couple.)

The club, bar, and party scene is chronicled in the biweekly gay and lesbian tabloid, Xtra! West, available at cafes, bars, and businesses throughout the West End.

The Gay Lesbian Transgendered Bisexual Community Centre, 2–1170 Bute St. (tel. 604/684-5307; www.qmunity.ca), has all kinds of information on events and the current hot spots. Also check out the Vancouver Pride Society website (www.vancouverpride.ca) for upcoming special events, including the annual Vancouver Pride Parade in June, one of the largest gay-pride events in North America. The Vancouver Queer Film Festival is held in mid-August; check www.queerfilmfestival.ca for more details. Also, check out Gay & Lesbian Ski Week at Whistler, located 121km (75 miles) north of Vancouver; for information, go to www.gaywhistler.com.

The gay and lesbian scene in Victoria is small but active. Explore the Pride link under "Plan Your Trip" at www.tourismvictoria.com, or go to the www.gayvictoria.ca website. At both sites, you'll find information about special places to stay and dine, plus things to do. The Victoria Pride Parade and Festival is held every summer in early July.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Vancouver's former mayor, Sam Sullivan, is keenly aware of accessibility issues, having been a quadriplegic since breaking his neck in a skiing accident at age 19. He founded several nonprofit organizations dedicated to improving the quality of life for travelers with disabilities throughout North America. However, even before Sam Sullivan, Vancouver was working to improve accessibility.

According to We're Accessible, a newsletter for travelers with disabilities, Vancouver is "the most accessible city in the world." There are more than 14,000 sidewalk wheelchair ramps, and motorized wheelchairs are a common sight in the downtown area. The stairs along Robson Square have built-in ramps, and most major attractions and venues have ramps or level walkways for easy access. Most Vancouver hotels have at least partial wheelchair accessibility; many have specially equipped rooms for travelers with disabilities. Most SkyTrain stations and the SeaBus are wheelchair accessible, and most bus routes are lift-equipped. For further information about accessible public transportation, contact Translink (tel. 604/953-3333; www.translink.ca).

Many Vancouver hotels are also equipping rooms with visual smoke alarms and other facilities for hearing-impaired guests, while many crosswalks are now outfitted with beeping alerts to guide visually impaired pedestrians.

Victoria is similarly accessible. Nearly all Victoria hotels have rooms equipped to accommodate travelers with disabilities, and downtown sidewalks are equipped with ramps, though few intersections have beeping crosswalk signals for the visually impaired. The Victoria Regional Transit System (tel. 250/382-6161) has a downloadable Guide to Accessible Transit Services on its website, www.transitbc.com, which includes information on which bus routes are equipped with lifts and/or low floors. The most notable spot in Victoria that isn't readily wheelchair accessible is the promenade along the water's edge in the Inner Harbour, which has only one rather challenging ramp near the Pacific Undersea Gardens.

The government of Canada hosts a comprehensive Persons with Disabilities website (www.accesstotravel.gc.ca) with resources for travelers with disabilities. In addition to information on public transit in cities across Canada, the site also lists accessible campsites, parks, coach lines, and a number of links to other services and associations of interest to travelers with disabilities. If you can't find what you need online, call tel. 800/926-9105.

Outside of Canada, organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS [800/225-5667]; www.mossresourcenet.org); the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org); and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). AirAmbulanceCard.com is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) offers a comprehensive database on travel agents from around the world with experience in accessible travel; destination-specific access information; and links to such resources as service animals, equipment rentals, and access guides.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel. Avis Rent a Car (tel. 888/879-4273) has an "Avis Access" program that offers services for customers with special travel needs. These include specially outfitted vehicles with swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls; mobility scooter rentals; and accessible bus service. Be sure to reserve well in advance.

Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com), available by subscription ($17 per year in the U.S.; $22 per year outside the U.S.). The "Accessible Travel" link at Mobility-Advisor.com (www.mobility-advisor.com) offers a variety of travel resources to travelers with disabilities.

British travelers should contact Holiday Care (tel. 0845/124-9971 in the U.K.; www.tourismforall.org.uk) to access a wide range of travel information and resources for elderly people and individuals with disabilities.

Getting There

By Plane

Victoria International Airport (YYJ) is located on the Saanich Peninsula, about 25km (15 miles) northwest of Victoria (tel. 250/953-7533; www.victoriaairport.com). It’s a small, single-terminal airport that is undergoing a number of improvements in 2014, including a bigger pre-security clearance area and new food and shopping opportunities post-security.

You can catch a direct flight to Victoria from Vancouver, Calgary, Portland, or Seattle via commercial airlines such as Air Canada (tel. 888/247-2262 or 800/661-3936; www.aircanada.com) and WestJet (tel. 888/937-8538; www.westjet.com).

One of the most thrilling ways to arrive is by floatplane—Harbour Air Seaplanes (tel. 800/665-0212; www.harbour-air.com) will whisk you right from downtown Vancouver to Victoria’s Inner Harbour in just 30 minutes. Kenmore Air (tel. 800/543-9595; www.kenmoreair.com) flies in from Seattle, and Pacific Coastal Airlines (tel. 800/663-2872; www.pacific-coastal.com) wings it from YVR’s South terminal in Richmond.

There’s also the convenience of the Helijet, a helicopter service that whirrs into Victoria daily from Vancouver (tel. 800/665-4354; www.helijet.com).

From the airport, the most economical way to get into town is by the YYJ Airport Shuttle (tel. 778/351-4995 or 855/351-4995; www.yyjairportshuttle.com). It leaves at least hourly and more frequently during peak periods, starting at 7:35am and continuing to midnight, with stops at most of the major downtown hotels. Pickup from the hotels to the airport starts at 3:30am and ends at 7:45pm. The entire trip takes about an hour and the fare is C$24 one-way (C$20 each way if you have a return ticket, C$22 per person for a party of two, and C$15 for children).

A limited number of hotel courtesy buses also serve the airport.

By taxi, expect to pay around C$50, plus tip, for the trip downtown.

In addition, several car rental firms have desks at the airport, and if you plan to explore beyond the city center, a car may be your best option. They are Avis (tel. 800/879-2847 or 250/656-6033; www.avis.ca), Budget (tel. 800/668-9833 or 250/953-5300; www.budgetvictoria.com), Hertz (tel. 800/263-0600 or 250/657-0380; www.hertz.ca), and National (tel. 800/227-7368 or 250/656-2541; www.nationalcar.ca). From the airport, take Hwy. 17 south for the half-hour drive to Victoria; it becomes the city’s main thoroughfare, Douglas Street, as you enter downtown.

By Ferry

Most people arrive in Victoria by ferry, and there are three different options, depending on where you’re coming from, and how you are traveling.

The most popular service is BC Ferries (tel. 888/223-3779; www.bcferries.com), a fleet of vast, drive-aboard ferries that ply the waters between Tsawwassen south of Vancouver and Swartz Bay to the north of Victoria. The ferry trip itself is 1 hour and 35 minutes through the scenic Gulf Islands, then another 45 minutes’ drive into the city. If you aren’t driving, you can also take a Pacific Coach Lines bus, climbing aboard a luxury coach either in downtown Vancouver or on the ferry for a comfortable, stress-free journey with free Wi-Fi (tel. 800/661-1725 or 604/662-7575; www.pacificcoach.com). Note that bus service is not available on all ferries, and that reservations are required.

In addition, two U.S. ferry services offer connections: The Victoria Clipper is a foot-passenger-only service that travels from Seattle to Victoria’s Inner Harbour daily year-round, and twice daily from May through September (tel. 800/888-2535; www.clippervacations.com). Black Ball Transport’s MV Coho carries both vehicles and foot passengers from Port Angeles to Victoria Harbour at least twice daily year round (tel. 800/993-3779; www.cohoferry.com). Check the websites for the latest in scheduled sailings, reservations, and fares.

Note: Don’t forget you’ll need a valid passport to enter Canada.

By Train

Travelers on the Horseshoe Bay–Nanaimo ferry can board VIA Rail's E&N Railiner train at Nanaimo and wind down Vancouver Island's Cowichan River valley through Goldstream Provincial Park and to Victoria. The trip takes 2 1/2 hours and ends at the VIA Rail Station (450 Pandora Ave.; tel. 800/561-8630 in Canada), near the Johnson Street Bridge. For more information, contact VIA Rail Canada (tel. 888/842-7245; www.viarail.ca).

By Bus

Pacific Coach Lines (tel. 604/662-7575; www.pacificcoach.com) provides service between Vancouver and Victoria. Pacific Coach Lines will pick up passengers from the Vancouver cruise-ship terminal and from most downtown hotels. For more information, call or visit their website.

Orientation

Victoria was born at the edge of the Inner Harbour in the 1840s and spread outward from there. The areas of most interest to visitors lie along the eastern edge of the Inner Harbour. North of the Johnson Street Bridge is the Upper Harbour, which is largely industrial but taking on new life as old buildings are redeveloped. A little farther east, the Ross Bay and Oak Bay residential areas around Dallas Road and Beach Drive reach the beaches along the open waters of the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

Victoria’s central landmark is the Fairmont Empress Hotel on Government Street, right across from the Inner Harbour. If you turn your back to the hotel, downtown is on your right, while the BC Parliament Buildings (also known as the Provincial Legislature Buildings) and the Royal BC Museum are on your immediate left. Next to them is the dock for the Seattle and Port Angeles ferries, and beyond that the residential community of James Bay, the first neighborhood in the city to be developed.

Main Arteries & Streets

Three main north-south arteries intersect just about every destination you may want to reach in Victoria. Government Street goes through Victoria’s main downtown shopping-and-dining district. Douglas Street, running parallel to Government Street, is the main business thoroughfare, as well as the road to Nanaimo and the rest of the island. It’s also Trans-Canada Hwy. 1. The “Mile 0” marker sits at the corner of Douglas Street and Dallas Road. Also running parallel to Government and Douglas streets is Blanshard Street (Hwy. 17), the route to the Saanich Peninsula—including the Sidney-Vancouver ferry terminal—and Butchart Gardens.

Important east-west streets include Johnson Street at the northern end of downtown, Belleville Street at the Inner Harbour’s southern edge, and Dallas Road, which follows the water’s edge past residential areas and beaches before it winds northward up to Oak Bay.

Finding an Address

Victoria addresses are written like those in Vancouver: The suite or room number precedes the building number. For instance, 100-1250 Government St. refers to suite 100 at 1250 Government St.

Victoria's streets are numbered from the city's southwest corner and increase in increments of 100 per block as you go north and east. (1000 Douglas St., for example, is 2 blocks north of 800 Douglas St.) Addresses for all the east-west streets (Fort, Yates, Johnson, and so on) downtown start at 500 at Wharf Street; thus, all buildings between Wharf and Government streets fall between 500 and 599, while all buildings between Government and Douglas streets fall between 600 and 699, and so on.

Street Maps

Street maps are available free at the Tourism Victoria Visitor Centre. The best map of the surrounding area is the “BC Provincial Parks” map of Vancouver Island, also available at the Info Centre.