For a city that serves up so much seafood, it’s surprising that Victoria has so few decent sushi restaurants. Seagrille is the exception. Located in the Brentwood Bay Resort in a small town on the back side of Butchart Gardens, it’s an airy space of natural wood and big windows that open on to sea and forest views. Seafood is definitely the focus here, and you can order western-style dishes like the seared scallops or cioppino (a fish stew). But it’s the sushi that’s the star: Watch the highly trained Japanese sushi chefs prepare platters of sweet sashimi or perfectly sculpted nigiri, as well as a selection of plump maki rolls filled with tuna, spicy prawns, or candied smoked salmon.