The room is clean and simple, and it’s all the better to show off the artistry on the plate. Ulla is tucked away on the edge of Chinatown, in an old brick building with big, arched windows; inside, it’s all white walls and subtle woods, striped banquettes, moody art, and cloudlike light fixtures made of tangled strips of wood. It’s restrained, but with funky touches, and makes an ideal setting for some of Victoria’s most exciting food. At Ulla, chef Brad Holmes is creating beautiful compositions of local ingredients sculpted with some seriously sophisticated culinary techniques. But the food isn’t just pretty, it’s also lusciously flavorful. Even something that sounds as bland as “semolina cubes” proves to be a powerhouse of flavor, while the fried chicken with cheddar pierogi will make your taste buds do a happy dance. The beer, cocktail, and wine list is fairly small, but thoughtfully chosen, and offers plenty of exciting options to drink in.