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The giant modern art complex MuseumsQuartier (www.mqw.at; U-Bahn: MuseumsQuartier) opened in 2001. Art critics proclaimed that the assemblage of art installed in former Habsburg stables tipped the city's cultural center of gravity from Habsburgian pomp into the new millennium. One of the 10 largest cultural complexes in the world, it is like combining New York's Guggenheim Museum, Museum of Modern Art, and Brooklyn Academy of Music, plus a children's museum, an architecture and design center, theaters, art galleries, video workshops, and much more. There's even an ecology center, architecture museum, and, yes, a tobacco museum.

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