The giant modern art complex MuseumsQuartier (www.mqw.at; U-Bahn: MuseumsQuartier) opened in 2001. Art critics proclaimed that the assemblage of art installed in former Habsburg stables tipped the city's cultural center of gravity from Habsburgian pomp into the new millennium. One of the 10 largest cultural complexes in the world, it is like combining New York's Guggenheim Museum, Museum of Modern Art, and Brooklyn Academy of Music, plus a children's museum, an architecture and design center, theaters, bars, restaurants, art galleries, video workshops, and much more. There's even an ecology center, architecture museum, and, yes, a tobacco museum. The Leopold Museum, which has the largest collection in the world of works by Vienna's own Egon Schiele, is the most popular destination in the Quarter; go early in the day to avoid crowds. In the warmer weather months, the Quarter is filled with daily festivals and events, most of them free to the public. Be sure to check at the website above to see the schedule.

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