Planning a trip to Vientiane
Getting There
By Plane -- Vientiane is Laos's major international hub for air travel. Wattay Airport is situated fairly close to the city. If you are coming from anywhere far away you will fly to Bangkok first and take a connecting flight to Vientiane. A taxi to town will cost 50,000 kip. The airlines serving the airport are:
Vietnam Airlines (first floor, Lao Plaza Hotel, Thanon Samsenthai; tel. 021/217-562; www.vietnamairlines.com). Open Monday to Friday 8am to noon and 1:30 to 4:30pm, Saturday 8am to noon.
Lao Airlines (Thanon Pangkham; tel. 021/512-028; www.laoairlines.com). Open Monday to Saturday 8am to noon and 1 to 4:30pm.
Thai Airways International (Thanon Luang Prabang; tel. 021/222-527). Open Monday to Friday 8am to 5pm, Saturday 8am to noon.
China Eastern Airlines (Thanon Luang Prabang; tel. 021/212-300; www.chinaeastern.com).
By Bus -- There are three separate bus stations in Vientiane. The Northern Bus Station (tel. 021/260-555) connects Vientiane with northern Laos, China, and Vietnam. The Southern Bus station (tel. 021/740-521) is the port of call if you heading in the direction of Tha Khek, Pakse, or Savannakhet. There is also a bus station at the Morning Market (tel. 021/216-507), which is called Talat Sao in Lao, but which is devoted to local buses around Vientiane province only. There are buses to destinations farther away (such as Vang Vieng) from Talat Sao, but they are best avoided because they are incredibly slow and stop frequently. It is best to head for the long-distance buses from either the Northern or Southern terminals. It is from here that buses also leave to Udon Thani and Khon Khaen in northeastern Thailand.
Note: If coming from Bangkok, a cheaper alternative to flying directly to Vientiane is to take an internal flight to Udon Thani 55km (34 miles) away in Thailand and travel on to Nong Khai by bus crossing into Laos on the Friendship Bridge.
By Train -- In 2009, the extension of the railway line from Bangkok to Nong Khai was completed. The railway terminates at Vientiane's Thanalaeng station. You can now travel from Bangkok to Vientiane (or vice versa) by train on the daily overnight sleeper train direct from Bangkok to the new international rail terminal some 13km (8 miles) outside Vientiane.
When taking this route, it is generally easier to get off at Nong Khai and negotiate the border in the normal way. The principal express trains depart Hualamphong station in Bangkok at 6:40pm and 8pm.
At present visas on arrival for Laos are not issued at Thanalaeng station in Laos, only at the Friendship Bridge, so you can only use the new through train northbound if you already have a visa for Laos. It's really not worth it for the final 4km (2 1/2 miles) of the journey. Take any train between Bangkok and Nong Khai, and then use road transport into Laos. From Nong Khai, take a local tuk-tuk from the railway station to Nong Khai bus station. A shuttle bus runs from the bus station across the Friendship Bridge to Laos every 20 minutes throughout the day. It costs about 90¢. It stops at Thai Immigration 5 minutes after leaving the bus station and then crosses the Friendship Bridge arriving at Lao Customs and Immigration. You then remove your luggage from the bus and go through Lao Customs. Once through, take another tuk-tuk to your chosen hotel.
When traveling southbound, leave central Vientiane at least 3 hours before your train leaves Nong Khai for Bangkok, in order to allow time for border formalities and the various bus/taxi journeys.
Getting Around
Most of the things you will want to see in Vientiane are completely accessible by foot. If you want to travel a little bit farther or a little bit faster you can do it by bicycle.
By Bicycle -- Bikes are a great way to get around town. Both bicycle and motorcycle rentals are available at many storefronts along Fa Ngum Road near the river or along Samsenthai. Many guesthouses have a few rattlers available, though don't expect anything too high-tech. The fee varies, but is generally around a dollar a day.
By Bus -- If you want to get a bus to an outlying area, go to the local bus station at Talat Sao. You can also catch a bus to the Thai border at the Friendship Bridge from here for 40¢.
Car Rental -- You can rent a car with driver for $70 per day around town. Trips farther afield will cost between $80 and $90. Call Asia Vehicle Rental (tel. 021/217-493; www.avr.laopdr.com), or inquire at any hotel front desk. Daily rates for sedans start at $60.
By Motorcycle -- Hiring a motorcycle is a popular way to explore both Vientiane and the surrounding area. Rte. 13 from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang is a legendary road among motorcyclists. There are a number of places that rent out both small step-throughs for about $8 a day and bigger 250cc dirt bikes for $25 a day. If they don't provide you with a satisfactory helmet, then buy your own.
By Taxi -- Taxis operate from the airport only and cost $5 for the ride into town. Going the other way, it's easier to take a tuk-tuk for $2.
By Tuk-Tuk & Jumbo -- When taking a tuk-tuk in Vientiane you need to have your wits about you, since all is not as it first appears. There are actually three kinds of tuk-tuks doing the rounds in the city. The tuk-tuks specifically targeting tourists are the most expensive. You will see them lined up near sites and big hotels. The drivers will often have a printed rate card and the rates themselves are double what you pay for a regular tuk-tuk. They can be quite pushy if they see you walking by. You can bargain with them but it's not a very pleasant experience.
The second type is regular tuk-tuks that patrol the city looking for a fare. These are cheaper than the tourist vehicles. Cheapest of all are the fixed-route jumbos (a slightly bigger version of a tuk-tuk), which operate in the same way as buses. You can hail them as they pass or go to Talat Sao and take one from there. For most places around town you will pay about 20¢ to 40¢.
Visitor Information & Tours
There is a tourist information office on Lane Xang Avenue, just north of the Morning Market. The Vientiane Times (www.vientianetimes.org.la) is the local English-language paper, a fun read with good listings of local events.
Orientation
Vientiane hugs the northern bend of the Mekong River. The city is divided into districts called bans or villages. With a population of only half a million people, it is both manageable and small. Most places are easily reached by foot or bicycle.
The covered market of Talat Sao marks the center of the city. Nearby are the main post office, the bus station, and tourist information office. There are also a number of banks and government offices in the same area. In addition to Talat Sao itself, there are also plenty of other shops and boutiques worth checking out in this area. Near the southern side of the market beside the post office is the Ethnic Handicraft Market where one can find goods from every part of Laos.
The areas of Ban Mixay and Ban Sisaket are situated next to each other west of Talat Sao, and running through them parallel to each other are the main thoroughfares of Samsenthai Road and Setthathirath Road and Fa Ngum Road running along the riverfront. In this area you will find most of the restaurants, hotels, guesthouses, and cybercafes. A number of side streets connect Samsenthai and Setthathirath roads, the busiest of which is Pangkham Street ending at Nam Phu Fountain. The northern part of the city is centered on That Luang. Apart from the temple itself, the main points of interest for visitors in that district are That Luang Market, the That Luang Dok Mai Plant Market, and Patuxai Monument.
Wattay International Airport is located 4km (2 1/2 miles) to the northwest of the city. The bus station serving the south of Laos is 8km (5 miles) from the center of the city to the northwest. The bus station serving the north is about 2km (1 1/4 miles) away in the same direction. The Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge marking the border with Thailand is 19km (12 miles) to the southeast.
Fast Facts
American Express -- Vientiane's Amex representative is Diethelm Travel, Namphu Square, Setthathirath Road (tel. 021/213-833; www.diethelmtravel.com).
ATMs -- There are ATMs all over the center of the city, but they are not your best bet for getting cash from home. They only issue kip (with a limit of 700,000 kip). They also levy quite a hefty charge on top of any charges your own bank might levy. If you see a crowd of men in military fatigues carrying AK47 assault rifles milling around an ATM, don't be alarmed. They are hired to top up the cash supply. There's a Banque Pour Le Commerce Extérieur Lao (BCEL) ATM on Setthathirath Road (across the street from Joma Café), maximum withdrawal is 700,000 kip. The newly opened Australia New Zealand Bank Vientiane (ANZV) has two ATMs at their Lang Xang Avenue branch near the Victory Monument (at Blvd. Khounboulan intersection).
Banks & Currency Exchange -- Banque Pour Le Commerce Extérieur Lao (BCEL) is on Pangkham Street down by the river, just west of the Lane Xang Hotel (tel. 021/213-200). At BCEL and most other banks, you can exchange money in all major currencies, change traveler's checks to U.S. dollars, and get cash advances on Visa and MasterCard; commission rates start at 3%. The nearby Joint Development Bank (75/1 Lan Xang; tel. 021/213-535) also exchanges cash and traveler's checks. You can also exchange money at Banque Setthathirat, near Wat Mixay. All banks are open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 3:30pm. Other banks line Lane Xang Avenue; exchange counters dot the city.
Business Hours -- Generally shops are open from around 9am to 8pm on weekdays with slightly reduced hours on weekends. Cafes tend to run from about 8:30am to 9pm or 10pm. Many restaurants open for lunch and dinner only and will be closed between 2 and 5pm. Government offices generally open Monday to Friday at 8:30am, close for lunch from noon until 1pm and close again at 5pm. Even with the fast-changing nightlife scene in Vientiane, most bars are closed by 11pm or midnight. There are quite a number of clubs and music venues that stay open unofficially past this time. Many businesses are closed on Sunday.
Doctors & Hospitals -- Medical facilities in Laos are very basic indeed. Most foreigners living in Laos go to Thailand for treatment of all but the most trivial of ailments. The Friendship Bridge connecting Vientiane to Nong Khai in Thailand is open daily from 6am to 10pm. If there is a real medical emergency then crossing outside of these hours is allowed. Many travelers go to AEK International Hospital (tel. +66-42/342-555) or the North Eastern Wattana General Hospital (tel. +66-1/833-4262), both of which are in Udon Thani about 55km (34 miles) from the border. Both hospitals have English-speaking staff. For less complex medical procedures, Nong Khai Wattana Hospital in Nong Khai, Thailand (tel. +66-1/833-4262) is also an option.
Within Laos the International Medical Clinic operated by Mahosot Hospital is situated on the banks of the Mekong on Fa Ngum Road (tel. 021/214-022; open 24 hr.). The Australian Embassy also operates a modern medical clinic. It is situated at Km 4 on Thadeua Road in Watnak Village. (tel. 021/353-840; fax 021/353-841; open Mon-Fri 8:30am-12:30pm and 1:30-5pm). Most doctors and hospitals in Laos require payment in cash, regardless of whether you have health insurance. The Australian Embassy Clinic accepts both MasterCard and Visa.
Emergencies -- For police, dial tel. 991; for fire, dial tel. 190; and for an ambulance, dial tel. 195. For medical evacuation, call Lao Westcoast Helicopter Company (tel. 021/512-023).
Internet Access -- There are Internet cafes all over the center of town. The ones we found to have the best speeds and biggest monitors were opposite the Joma Café on Setthathirath. Beware of using your own thumb drives to save data though, since virus protection is patchy. Many cafes and restaurants now have free Wi-Fi. Both Sticky Fingers and Full Moon Café two doors up have good connections. Full Moon Café functions as a daytime office for many, largely because of its very comfortable seating; comfortable benches lined with lots of big cushions. More and more places are installing Wi-Fi and it's getting much easier to find a connection in town.
Newspapers & Magazines -- Laos is still very much Communist and this means that media is most definitely not free. The Vientiane Times is turgid and fairly pointless. You can buy the Bangkok Post in some bookshops or find copies to read in cafes and bakeries. You will have to line up to get your hands on them, since many people will be catching up on the outside world with the single newspaper available. Bookshops also sell international magazines such as Time and Newsweek for a fairly hefty price.
Pharmacies -- Laos, like Vietnam and Cambodia, largely replaces proper medicine with self-diagnosis. As a result, there are many pharmacies around town selling antibiotics and other drugs using diagnosis methods that lack rigor or, in fact, any process of diagnosis whatsoever. If you get sick, head to a clinic. If you need something simple, the better pharmacies are to be found on Nong Bon Road near Talat Sao. Try and avoid Chinese-made drugs if you can and go for European and Thai imports and check the expiration date. The Australian Embassy Clinic also runs a fully equipped modern pharmacy.
Post Office -- The general post office is at the corner of Khou Vieng Road and Lane Xang Avenue, opposite the Morning Market. Hours are Monday to Friday 8am to noon and 1 to 5pm, Saturday 8am to noon. EMS and FedEx services are just next door. For international calls, you are better off using one of the many Internet cafes.
Safety -- Vientiane is a safer city than most, but it's still a good idea to take all the usual precautions, especially at night. There have been reported cases of bag snatching, so it's best not to leave things lying about or dangling invitingly from your shoulder. Also be aware that some of your fellow travelers might be the ones with light fingers. One aspect where the city can be difficult is on the road on a motorbike or car. Belying the gentle reputation of the country, Lao drivers can be downright aggressive. Keep space about you and take extra care at night when there will be a fair number of drunks behind the wheel.
Telephone -- The city code for Vientiane is 021. For international calls, go to an Internet cafe. It is cheaper, quicker, and more efficient. You can also buy a Lao sim card for your mobile for approximately $5, if you want to make local calls. Calls are cheap and refill cards can be found everywhere.
