Planning a trip to Vietnam

When to Go

Think Vietnam and you might imagine a steamy jungle and hot sun -- and you'd be mostly right. But even though Vietnam is tropical, you'll find a real range, from chilly mountaintops and cool highland areas to sun-drenched coastline and, yes, that steamy jungle, too, laced with the swampy rivers you've seen in movies.

Opposing monsoon seasons in the north and south mean that seasonal changes are different in north, central, and south Vietnam. The good news for travelers is that this means it's always high season somewhere in Vietnam, and the tropical south is always warm. Vietnam can be broken into three distinct geographical and climatic zones as follows: north, central, and south.

The north is cooler than the rest of the country. Winter months, from November until January, can be quite cool, especially in mountainous areas. Northern temperatures range from 60°F to 90°F (16dg]C-32°C). If you are going far north to Sapa or Dien Bien Phu along the China/Laos border, be sure to bring one extra layer of warmth (a pullover will do); near Sapa is Fansipan, Vietnam's highest point, and there is even the occasional freeze and snow at this altitude. Hanoi, the capital and in the north, as well as nearby coastal regions around Haiphong and Halong Bay, experience relatively high humidity year-round and a rainy season from May to October. Winter months are cool (as low as 57°F/14°C) and somewhat damp, but the heat starts to pick up in April and makes for a hot, wet summer (many Hanoians get out of town, to the mountain towns or nearby beaches off Haiphong or Vinh). The best time to visit the north, though cold in midwinter, is from November to the end of April.

The Central Coast follows an opposing monsoon pattern to the north, with warmer weather during the July-to-October high season on, and wet, colder weather from November to May. Coastal Vietnam -- Quy Nhon and Nha Trang -- experiences steamy temperatures like the far south (70°F-90°F/21°C-32°C), but coastal wind can have a cooling effect. Raging storms and frequently large typhoons strike the coast in summer months, from July to November; often during this season, the surf is too rough for swimming.

The Central Highlands, just inland and on the southern end of the Annamese Cordillera range, receives nearly double the rainfall of the national average, and this plateau, in towns like Dalat and Pleiku, is cool throughout the year.

The south, the region around Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong Delta, is steamy hot year-round with only periods of rainy and dry weather. Temperatures range from 70°F to 90°F (21°C-32°C), with a hot, dry period from March to May seeing temperatures in the 90s (30s Celsius). Summers are hot, humid, and rainy.

Because of the regional variations in weather, a part of the country is seasonable at any time of year. Most travelers in Vietnam trace a north-south or south-north route with flights connecting on either end (or adding continued travel to Cambodia or China). Depending on the duration of your stay, you can plan to "follow" the good weather, hitting Saigon in February or March and tracing warmer weather up the coast.

Note: Avoid travel during the Tet holiday in January and February. Tet is a Christmas and New Year's celebration rolled into one, and anyone and everyone is going "over the river and through the woods" to their respective grandmother's house. Transport is always fully booked. Unless you're lucky enough to enjoy Tet with a Vietnamese family, be forewarned: During this time, many travelers find themselves stranded, hotels completely full, and roadways crowded with traffic and revelers.

Tips for Single Travelers

By and large, travelers in Vietnam and the other countries of Southeast Asia are seekers of some kind, whether for an exotic location or an unbending of their cultural norm, or to reconnect with their past and come to terms with it. Many prefer to travel in Vietnam alone. For independent travelers, solo journeys are opportunities to make friends and meet locals. Groups of tourists are intimidating, but single travelers -- though better targets for touts and shysters -- also look like they need help ("sympathy touring," a friend of mine calls it) and will likely be pitied (however unfounded) and offered hospitality by kind Vietnamese families.

A certain camaraderie also develops on long bus rides or in the uncertainty and wonder we share with fellow travelers from the West, and a trip that might start out solo often ends in friendships that last a lifetime.

Travel Buddies Singles Travel Club (tel. 800/998-9099; www.travelbuddiesworldwide.com), based in Canada, runs small, intimate, singles-friendly group trips and will match you with a roommate free of charge. TravelChums (tel. 212/787-2621; www.travelchums.com) is an Internet-only travel-companion matching service with elements of an online personals-type site, hosted by the respected New York-based Shaw Guides travel service.

Many reputable tour companies offer singles-only trips. Singles Travel International (tel. 877/765-6874; www.singlestravelintl.com) offers singles-only escorted tours to places like London, Alaska, Fiji, and the Greek Islands. Backroads (tel. 800/462-2848; www.backroads.com) offers "Singles + Solos" active-travel trips to destinations worldwide.

Staying Safe

An old Asia hand I know says this: "Your best insurance policy for any trip in Vietnam is to stay off motorbikes. Don't ride one yourself. Don't ride on the back. And watch out for them on the streets."

He's right, but the sad fact is that motorbikes and motorbike taxis are the best and most common way to get around most Vietnamese towns. In some cases, a ride on a bike is the only choice for covering short city hops or getting to the bus station, for example. The decision is yours, of course, but be careful: Tuck your knees in, wear a helmet, and ask the driver to slow down (say dii cham or give a thumbs-down gesture) if he gets going too fast.

The greatest danger to your safety when traveling Vietnam is, in fact, road travel: Getting around by car or bus means throwing your lot into a system where might is right, and the fastest vehicles or the ones that look and sound most like the apocalypse have the right of way. Even major highways are narrow and require a bit of "chicken" -- or "forced giving way" -- when opposing vehicles meet. An estimated 30 people die every day on roads in Ho Chi Minh alone.

The good news is that anonymous violent crime is almost nonexistent in Vietnam. Petty thievery and pickpocketing is an issue, but you'll have no problems if you practice some vigilance with valuables (keep passport and cash in a concealed travel wallet or in a hotel safe). Also, try to stick more to the well-traveled roads, especially at night -- walking down dark alleys is never safe in any country. In general, foreign visitors have no problems with crime in Vietnam unless they're doing something wrong themselves.

Vietnam is politically very stable, so don't worry about getting caught up in any insurgency, though tensions and mistrust do continue between Vietnam's ethnic hilltribe communities and the central Vietnam administration. Terrorism is nonexistent because the visa restrictions are so tight, and because anyone doing anything funny under the watchful eye of the Party -- and that means you -- just gets the boot. There have been a number of cases of journalists and members of evangelical religious denominations being detained and having materials confiscated. Whatever you're doing in Vietnam, just make it look like tourism and you should be okay.

Corruption in government on all levels is rife, and, if you find yourself talking with the local constabulary, know that you won't be "protected and served" in Vietnam, but "harassed and collected from." Road violations are usually handled with an expected small bribe at curbside, for example, and you can typically bribe your way out of -- or into -- any situation. In general, however, local law agents don't want anything to do with foreigners unless there is a clear road to a quick profit. If in doubt in any circumstance, contact your country's embassy or consulate.

Marijuana may appear legal in Vietnam, considering its widespread availability -- especially in beach towns like Nha Trang -- but don't be fooled. The same guy who sold it to you collects a few dong for informing a crooked cop, who then collects his dong bounty and a few dollars from you -- or, worse, jail time if you can't produce the requisite bribe. Not worth it.

Dealing with Discrimination

Western visitors of all races are treated as a collective oddity in Vietnam; no one gets particular attention, really. In certain rural parts, the arrival of a Westerner draws a crowd. Foreign visitors are greeted everywhere with spastic shouts of "Hello" -- often genuine, but for local kids, especially, it's usually something like shouting "punch buggy" when you see a Volkswagen. Say "Hi" back and you've made someone's day, but responding to everyone -- especially when it's not too genuine -- is a bit much. Vietnamese are motivated by a friendly curiosity with foreigners, and that often translates to pushing boundaries of physical space: tugging at arm hair (not unusual for Vietnamese) or grabbing at your personal items (not to steal, just to see). It's okay to push people away, but know that Vietnamese are motivated by curiosity and operate under different definitions of personal space.

Women alone rarely run into any special problems in Vietnam, but all should take caution when alone at night. If unmarried, or traveling sans spouse, the pity is laid on pretty thick.

Gay travelers should note that there are laws against homosexuality in Vietnam, but the laws are more or less institutionalized prejudice -- and the impetus for harassment and police blackmailing scams. Raids on homosexual establishments are not uncommon. Beware of homosexual touts and escorts, many of whom act in cahoots with police on scams. A large gay culture does exist in the big cities, but it's kept well under the table.

Special-Interest Vacations

Academic Trips & Language Classes

A visit just to Hanoi puts vast resources at your fingertips -- from museums to vestiges of architecture as far back as the 13th century. Walking tours of the Old Quarter, an area of the city that a curious traveler could literally pick apart block by block, are like a giant textbook. Here you'll learn about early Vietnamese commerce, the colonial administration of the French, early Vietnamese unrest, and eventual insurgency, not to mention the more heavy-handed legacy of a triumphant Vietnam under the leadership of Ho Chi Minh in the vestiges of his mausoleum and museum.

Asia Transpacific Journeys is quite typical of the many international tour agencies running trips to Vietnam. They offer specialized itineraries focused on Vietnamese culture -- such as the ancients, the Cham people, vestiges of the Chinese millennia, and the years under French colonialism.

Hanoi Language and Culture Tours (tel. 09/1352-2605; www.hanoilanguagetours.com) offers multiday courses that range from quick 2-day affairs to arm you with Vietnamese basics, to language and travel courses that that offer the opportunity to practice your newly learned linguistic skills in a Vietnamese homestay.

Adventure & Wellness Trips

If you like to get out into the countryside, you can find much to do in Vietnam. Consider first the kind of terrain you'd like to explore -- ranging from dense jungle to high mountains, coastal estuaries to inland rivers on flooded rice plains. Next, choose your weapon: kayak, mountain bike, motorcycle, jeep, hiking boots, or flip-flops.

The best areas for some good trekking are in the far north and Central Highlands of Vietnam; both regions have large populations of minority ethnic hilltribes, and the scenery -- rice terraces and spiked peaks -- is stunning. Highlights include visiting Halong Bay and the country's many national parks.

In the north of Vietnam, the folks at Handspan (tel. 04/3926-0581; www.handspan.com), as well as Buffalo Tours (tel. 04/3828-0702; www.buffalotours.com), put together exciting kayaking adventures in Halong Bay. In the far north, they offer good hiking trips to Sapa and by jeep up to Dien Bien Phu. In central Vietnam, the old French colonial hill station of Dalat plays host to a great outfitter, Phat Tire Ventures (tel. 063/3829-422; www.phattireventures.com), where you can rock-climb, mountain-bike, or trek with the most professional guides and experienced technicians.

Off-road adventures on motorbike and by jeep abound along the length of Vietnam. You can rent motorbikes and jeeps for touring north of Hanoi along the Dien Bien Phu Loop or up to Cao Bang. Small outfitters in Hanoi can help with rentals or guide hires.

In the Central Highlands, hiring an Easy Rider motorcycle guide out of Dalat is all the rage. Riding a big (for Vietnam) 125cc Honda Bonus -- you sit on the back -- the Easy Riders, most of whom retired from the South Vietnamese Army and speak English well, will take you across the ridge of the highlands all the way through Ban Ma Thuot and on to Kontum, where the Ho Chi Minh Trail (now a major highway) leads as far as Danang or Hue. Easy Rider can make arrangements for groups and even rent motorbikes if some members of the group want to ride their own bikes alongside a guide. The same routes can also be done by jeep.

In Ho Chi Minh City, seek out Vietnam Vespa Adventure for a memorable trip on a lovingly restored vintage Vespa scooter. These guys will take you off the beaten track along the coast of Phan Thiet and Mui Ne, or up north to Nha Trang.

Food & Wine Trips

Sampling Vietnamese cuisine is a highlight of any trip, so why not learn to make it yourself? The Hanoi Cooking Centre (tel. 04/3715-0088; www.hanoicookingcentre.com) is a new and popular choice in the nation's capital. The city's first purpose-built cooking center runs hands-on classes out of a restored colonial building near Truc Bach Lake. In Hoi An, in central Vietnam, Ms. Vy at Morning Glory Restaurant and Cooking School (tel. 0510/324-1555; www.hoianhospitality.com) runs great programs of varying length.

Tours for Vietnam Veterans

A good percentage of visitors to Vietnam are American Vietnam War veterans. It's not unusual to run across groups or individuals as you make your way across the country, some simply seeing how the story ended or others on more somber missions, such as staging memorial services.

But why would a veteran want to return to Vietnam, the scene of such tragic events? Most say they seek closure and that only by finally crossing the 17th Parallel can they find that; many also say that a trip to Vietnam gives them a chance to truly experience Vietnamese culture this second time around and visit peaceful villages devoid of barbed wire, mines, and terror.

Tours of Peace (TOP), a nonprofit organization started by Jess DeVaney, a retired U.S. Marine, arranges tours of Vietnam for veterans not only to come to terms with their past, but also to participate in the future. DeVaney's tours bring friends and family to points of historical or personal significance, but what is unique here is their humanitarian focus: The folks at TOP believe that through helping others, we heal ourselves, so humanitarian-aid projects are part of every tour. TOP visits orphanages, homes for the elderly and the homeless, poor rural villages, and schools, providing food, medicines, and supplies that save lives and give hope. Participants have a chance to return again as jolly green giants of yore, only this time able to help and spread kindness. Trip participants say that the tour is a great step in their recovery and toward acceptance of the past.

According to a spokesperson, "TOP participants come home from Vietnam this time feeling whole and understood. Vietnam is no longer a secret and a source of nightmares for them. A Tour of Peace helps participants exorcise the demons of war and find peace of mind." TOP offers financial assistance for those who need it (an application is on its website) and organizes tours year-round.

Applications for a Tour of Peace can be printed from TOP's website, www.topvietnamveterans.org, or by writing to TOP Vietnam Veterans, 8000 S. Kolb Rd., Ste. 43, Tucson, AZ 85706.

Also consider Vets with a Mission, a large nonprofit that has been in business some 17 years and runs annual trips, for veterans only, to Vietnam. Like Tours of Peace, Vets with a Mission -- as their name suggests -- is a group out to make a difference on their trips, and they bring large medical donations and services. The group helps veterans cut through the outmoded notion of heavy remorse and gives vets a chance to weigh in with their actions. Go to www.vwam.com or contact the group by e-mail at vetswithamission@backroads.net or by snail mail at: Vets with a Mission, P.O. Box 202, Newberry, SC 29108.

A few tour operators cater to veterans and can tailor individual tours to follow a division's history or customize travel for a returning veteran's wishes. Most groups visit general operating areas. An itinerary may start out in Saigon with an excursion to the Cu Chi Tunnels, going down to the Mekong Delta, then heading up to Qui Nhon and to the Central Highlands and Pleiku, and then moving on to Danang, China Beach, Hue, and, of course, the demilitarized zone (DMZ).

Contact the Global Spectrum, 5683 Columbia Pike, Ste. 101, Falls Church, VA 22041 (tel. 800/419-4446 or 703/671-9619; fax 703/671-5747; www.asianpassages.com).

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling. There are more options and resources out there than ever before. Most major hotels in the large cities of Vietnam -- Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi -- can accommodate travelers with wheelchairs, but hotels in rural areas are unlikely to provide such services. Ramps are uncommon.

Organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS [225-5667]; www.mossresourcenet.org), the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org), and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). AirAmbulanceCard.com is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) offers a comprehensive database on travel agents from around the world with experience in accessible travel; destination-specific access information; and links to such resources as service animals, equipment rentals, and access guides.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel. Avis Rent a Car (tel. 888/879-4273) has an Avis Access program that offers services for customers with special travel needs. These include specially outfitted vehicles with swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls; mobility scooter rentals; and accessible bus service. Be sure to reserve well in advance.

The "Accessible Travel" link at Mobility-Advisor.com (www.mobility-advisor.com) offers a variety of travel resources to those with disabilities.

British travelers should contact Holiday Care (tel. 0845/124-9971 in U.K. only; www.holidaycare.org.uk) to access a wide range of travel information and resources for the elderly and those with disabilities.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Vietnam is a very conservative country, something like the West was before the 1960s. Marriage is a child-bearing operation that happens early in life, with generations of a family living together. Imagine Hillary Clinton's proverbial "village" (as in "It takes a village"), but here, there's little leeway for anything short of providing for the next generation and no tolerance of alternative lifestyles. Attitudes toward homosexuality, despite growing notions that people are "born" so, are archaic and discriminatory.

In fact, there are laws against homosexuality in Vietnam, and any gay activity or nightclub is watched closely for "aberrant behavior" of what is officially considered a great "social evil." Police have been known to raid men's clubs, massage parlors, and saunas, imposing fines and "re-education courses" on Vietnamese offenders. Sadly, police often target foreign gay visitors in the big cities and sometimes work with dangerous gay touts and escorts to set up gay travelers (and sex tourists) for blackmail and scams.

The efforts of local and international NGOs to educate about condom use has met with some success, as there is a low reportage of HIV infections among gay males (though statistics are unreliable). In general, an increase in sex tourism in Vietnam has been reported, including gay sex tourism -- the sad truth is that many of these visitors have pointedly forgotten what they know about HIV and AIDS prevention.

You won't find any parades or openly gay-friendly destinations in Vietnam because all gay nightlife is underground, but there is a gay scene in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh, as well as at some beach destinations. Check the regional Utopia Asia website (www.utopia-asia.com) for information about nightspots and gay-friendly accommodations, or try the international sources below.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators.

Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. San Francisco-based Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com) offers worldwide trips and cruises, and Olivia (tel. 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com) offers lesbian cruises and resort vacations.

Gay.com Travel (tel. 800/929-2268 or 415/644-8044; www.gay.com/travel or www.outandabout.com) is an excellent online successor to the popular Out & About print magazine. It provides regularly updated information about gay-owned, gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments in every important destination worldwide. British travelers should click on the "Travel" link at www.uk.gay.com for advice and gay-friendly trip ideas.

The Canadian website GayTraveler (www.gaytraveler.ca) offers ideas and advice for gay travel all over the world.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Spartacus International Gay Guide, 35th Edition (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide); Odysseus: The International Gay Travel Planner, 17th Edition (Odysseus Enterprises, Ltd.); and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with separate annual books for gay men and lesbians.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency wherever possible, though the U.S. dollar is used widely in both Vietnam and Cambodia: In fact, the dollar is the de facto currency in Cambodia, and packing some U.S. greenbacks will come in very handy. Rates fluctuate, so before departing, consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

During your trip, the most useful Vietnam Dong bills will be upwards of 10,000 VND. There are smaller bills (which are also physically smaller than the more frequently used bills of 10,000 VND and up) of 1,000 VND, 2,000 VND, and 5,000 VND, which are handy when buying snacks from street vendors or if you want to give exact change to cabdrivers. Every now and again, a bronze 5,000 VND coin will land your way. For the most part, bills are distinguishable by color: The 500,000 VND is light blue, 100,000 VND is green, and 20,000 VND is dark blue. Be mindful of the 10,000 VND, 50,000 VND, and 200,000 VND notes -- all are done in pinkish-red hues that are quite similar to each other.

ATM service is good in most cities and the machines accept four-digit PINs. If heading off into the countryside, bring cash. Credit cards are also widely accepted, though many smaller companies, such as tour agencies or boutique hotels, will charge a 2% or 3% commission. For now, the traditional swipe credit cards are still widely accepted. All hotels can do business in U.S. dollars. In some parts, everybody down to the smallest shop vendor quotes prices in U.S. dollars, and particularly the big-ticket items are best handled with greenbacks instead of large stacks of local currency.

While dealing in U.S. dollars can make things less complicated, always keep in mind local currency values so that you know if you're being charged the correct amount or are given the correct change (usually in Vietnamese currency). In this guide, I've listed hotel, restaurant, and attraction rates in whatever form the establishments quoted them -- in local currencies where those were used, and in U.S. dollars (designated by the dollar sign: $) where those were quoted.

Small Change -- When you change money, ask for some small bills or loose change. Petty cash will come in handy for tipping and public transportation. Consider keeping the change separate from your larger bills so that it's readily accessible and you'll be less of a target for theft. Keep a good supply of $1 bills and/or 20,000 VND bills; these will come in handy when paying for cab and motorcycle rides.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- The area codes for the provinces of Vietnam are as follows: An Giang 076, Bac Can 0281, Bac Giang 0240, Bac Lieu 0781, Bac Ninh 0241, Ben Tre 075, Binh Dinh 056, Binh Duong 0650, Binh Phuoc 0651, Binh Thuan 062, Ca Mau 0780, Can Tho 0710, Cao Bang 026, Da Nang 0511, Dac Lac 0500, Dong Nai 061, Dong Thap 067, Gia Lai 059, Ha Giang 0219, Ha Nam 0351, Hai Duong 0320, Haiphong 031, Hanoi 04, Ha Tinh 039, Ho Chi Minh 08, Hung Yen 0321, Hoa Binh 0218, Khanh Hoa 058, Kien Giang 077, Kontum 060, Lai Chau 0231, Lam Dong 063, Lang Son 025, Lao Cai 020, Long An 072, Nam Dinh 0350, Nghe An 038, Ninh Binh 030, Ninh Thuan 068, Phu Tho 0210, Phu Yen 057, Quang Binh 052, Quang Ngai 055, Quang Ninh 033, Quang Tri 053, Soc Trang 079, Son La 022, Tay Ninh 066, Thai Binh 036, Thai Nguyen 0280, Thanh Hoa 037, Thua Thien Hue 054, Tien Giang 073, Tra Vinh 074, Tuyen Quang 027, Vinh Long 070, Vung Tau 064, Yen Bai 029.

Business Hours -- Vendors and restaurants tend to be all-day operations, opening at about 8am and closing at 9 or 10pm. People are up and about very early in the morning in Vietnam -- in fact, some towns still follow the old socialist bell system over outdoor speakers that start with waking bells at 5am, exercise regimen at 5:30am, siesta bell at 11am, return-to-work bell at 1pm, finish-work bell at 5pm, and the news piped in at 6pm (this mostly in remote areas). Note that locals eat an early lunch, usually just after 11am, and some restaurants are all but closed at 1pm. Government offices -- including banks, travel agencies, and museums -- are usually open from 8 to 11:30am and 2 to 4pm. Streets are often very quiet during the siesta hours of the day, when the sun is most merciless. Restaurants usually have last orders at 9:30 or 10pm, and, with the few exceptions of city clubs, bars are rarely open much past midnight.

Drinking Laws -- There are virtually no age restrictions limiting when or where you can buy or consume drinks. Laws against drinking and driving are not enforced, so it is not uncommon to find that your motorbike or taxi driver has had a few. Be cautious, especially at night.

Electricity -- Vietnam's electricity carries 220 volts, so if you're coming from the U.S., bring a converter and adapter for electronics. Plugs have either two round prongs or two flat prongs. If you're toting a laptop, bring a surge protector. Big hotels will have all these implements.

Embassies & Consulates -- Embassies are located in Hanoi at the following addresses: Australia, 8 Dao Tan (tel. 04/3831-7755); Canada, 31 Hung Vuong (tel. 04/3734-5000); European Union, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet (tel. 04/3946-1702); New Zealand, 63 Ly Thai To (tel. 04/3824-1481); United Kingdom, 31 Hai Ba Trung (tel. 04/3936-0500); United States, 7 Lang Ha (tel. 04/3772-1510).

Emergencies -- Nationwide emergency numbers are as follows: For police, dial tel. 113; for fire, dial tel. 114; and for ambulance, dial tel. 115. Operators speak Vietnamese only.

Holidays -- Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums are closed on the following legal national holidays: New Year's Day (Jan 1), Tet holiday (usually a few days in Jan/early Feb on the Gregorian Calendar), Gio To Hung Vuong Day (1 day, usually in Apr on the Gregorian Calendar), April 30 (Saigon Liberation/Reunification Day), September 2 (National Day).

Hospitals -- In Hanoi, the expatriate choice for comprehensive services is the Hanoi French Hospital, south of the town center at 1 Phuong Mai (tel. 04/3574-0740). For emergencies or minor medical issues in Hanoi, stop in at the convenient International SOS medical center at 31 Hai Ba Trung St., just south of Hoan Kiem Lake; call the 24-hour service center for emergencies at tel. 04/3934-0555. They have both Vietnamese and foreign doctors on call. Also in Hanoi, find the Hanoi Family Medical Practice at Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound at 298 Kim Ma (tel. 04/3843-0748).

In Ho Chi Minh City, International SOS is at 167 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St., District 3 (24-hr. hot line tel. 08/3829-8424). The International Medical Center, at 1 Han Thuyen, District 1 (tel. 08/3865-4025 for emergencies), offers services similar to what you'll find at International SOS.

Insurance -- Travel insurance is a very good idea for Vietnam. In the event of, say, a motorbike accident or a stomach ailment, seeking treatment at the international hospitals is very expensive. A consultation with a doctor at International SOS alone will set you back close to $200, let alone medicine and fees for setting broken bones or treating an acute case of diarrhea.

For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Internet Access -- Internet cafes are found in cities throughout Vietnam, especially in popular guesthouse and hotel areas. At cafes, rates are dirt-cheap -- usually around 4,000 VND per hour. In rural areas and at hotel business centers, rates are usually much more expensive. Take a short walk and you can find affordable service.

Language -- Vietnamese is the official language of Vietnam. Older residents speak and understand French, and young folks are busily learning Chinese these days. While English is widely spoken among folks in the service industry in Hanoi and Saigon, it is harder to find in other tourist destinations. Off the beaten track, arm yourself with as many Vietnamese words as you can muster and a dictionary.

Legal Aid -- The legal aid system in Vietnam is tenuous for its own citizens, let alone international travelers. If you find yourself on the wrong side of the law, contact your embassy or consulate immediately.

Mail -- A regular airmail letter will take about 10 days to reach North America, 7 to reach Europe, and 4 to reach Australia or New Zealand. Mailing things from Vietnam is expensive. A letter weighing up to 10 grams costs 13,000 VND to North America, 11,000 VND to Europe, and 9,000 VND to Australia/New Zealand; postcards, respectively, cost 8,000 VND, 7,000 VND, and 6,000 VND. Express mail services such as FedEx and DHL are easily available and are usually located in or around every city's main post office.

Newspapers & Magazines -- Viet Nam News (http://vietnamnews.vnanet.vn) is the country's English-language daily newspaper. You can find copies at bookstores around town.

Police -- You won't find a helpful cop on every street corner. Count on them only in cases of dire emergency, and learn a few words of Vietnamese to help you along. Moreover, police here can sometimes be part of the problem. Especially in the south, you and your car/motorbike driver might, for instance, be stopped for a minor traffic infraction and "fined." If the amount isn't too large, cooperate. Corruption is the rule, and palm-greasing and graft pose as police process. Be aware.

Smoking -- "No smoking" areas are rare in Vietnam, and even those that exist are often not well ventilated. Like other countries in the region, Vietnam is a smoker's paradise, and complaining about secondhand smoke is often met with confusion.

Taxes -- A 20% VAT was instituted for hotels and restaurants in January 1999, but expect variation in how it's followed. Upscale establishments might add the full 20%, and some might even tack on an additional 5% service charge. Others might absorb the tax in their prices, and still others will ignore it entirely. Inquire before booking or eating.

Telephones -- For domestic calls, visit the post office, where public phone service is offered at affordable rates, or buy a domestic phone card at any post office or phone company branch, usually at a rate of about 1,000 VND per minute. Local calls from hotels come with exorbitant surcharges and are best avoided.

The best way to make international calls from Vietnam is using an international calling card program, the likes of AT&T or MCI. Most hotels offer international direct-dialing, but with exorbitant surcharges of 10% to 25% on already inflated rates. International calls from any post office are more affordable, but without a calling card it is usually over $1 per minute.

Internet phone service is available at most little Internet storefronts. You can buy a card that gives you rates as low as 3,000 VND per minute, but many Internet shops don't allow you to use cards purchased elsewhere and levy a small surcharge on top of the 3,000 VND per minute. Internet phone quality ranges widely, best from the larger cities, and there is always a slight "walkie-talkie" delay, but it is the most affordable way to stay connected.

If you have a GSM cellphone that accepts SIM cards, you can buy an affordable plan at any post office or telecommunications center. The trick here is that receiving calls from anywhere is free of charge, so you can buy someone back home an affordable international phone card and arrange times when they can call you.

To call Vietnam: If you're calling Vietnam from the United States:

1. Dial the international access code: 011.

2. Dial the country code: 84.

3. Important Note: City codes are listed in this book with a 0 in front of them, as is required when dialing domestically. Do not dial the city code's prefix of 0 when dialing from abroad. When dialing a number (as listed in this guide), such as tel. 04/555-5555, from abroad, you dial as follows: tel. 011 (for international), + 84 (for Vietnam), + 4 (the city code minus the 0) + 555-5555. Looks like tel. 011-84-4-555-5555.

To make international calls: To make international calls from Vietnam, first dial 00 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next you dial the area code and number. For example, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 00-1-202-588-7800.

For directory assistance: Dial tel. 116 if you're looking for a number inside the country.

For operator assistance: If you need operator assistance in making a call, dial tel. 110.

Toll-free numbers: Calling a 1-800 number in the States from Vietnam is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

Time -- Vietnam is 7 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. There's no daylight saving time in Vietnam, meaning that in the summer months, it's 12 hours ahead of the U.S. East Coast, in winter months 11 hours ahead; it's 14 or 15 hours ahead of the U.S. West Coast, and 3 or 4 hours ahead of Sydney, Australia.

Tipping -- Tipping is common in Hanoi and in Saigon. In a top-end hotel, feel free to tip bellhops anywhere from 10,000 VND to 15,000 VND. Most upscale restaurants throughout the country now add a service surcharge of 5% to 10%. If they don't, or if the service is good, you might want to leave another 5%. Taxi drivers will be pleased if you round up the bill (again, mainly in the big cities). Use your discretion for tour guides and others who have been particularly helpful. Contrary to rumor, boxes of cigarettes as tips don't go over well. The recipient will say regretfully, "I don't smoke," when what he really means is "Show me the money." Exceptions to this are chauffeurs or minibus drivers.

Toilets -- You won't find public toilets or "restrooms" on the streets in most cities in Vietnam but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Be sure to carry tissues, as many of the restrooms in the railway and bus stations do not have toilet paper. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the best bet for clean facilities. Restaurants and bars in resorts or heavily visited areas may reserve their restrooms for patrons.

Visitor Information -- In Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, head to the Tourist Information Center (7 Dinh Tien Hoang St. in Hanoi; tel. 04/3926-3366; or 4G-4H Le Loi St., District 1 in Ho Chi Minh City; tel. 08/3822-6033) for detailed free tourist maps and general information. These centers also have a couple of computers offering free (but agonizingly slow) Internet access. In the north, Sapa's new Tourism Information Center (tel. 020/387-1975) is a good resource for local hiking conditions and decent maps. Recent stats and general information on the country and local holidays can be found at the state-run tourism site www.vietnamtourism.com.

Water -- Water is not potable in Vietnam. Outside of top-end hotels and restaurants, drink only beverages without ice, unless the establishment promises that it manufactures its own ice from clean water. Bottled mineral water, particularly the reputable La Vie and A&B brands, is everywhere. Counterfeits are a problem, so make sure you're buying the real thing, with an unbroken seal. Beware of big typos: "La Vile" water speaks for itself.

Tips on Accommodations

Affordable luxury is the name of the game in Vietnam. For what you'd pay to get a cracker-box room in U.S. and European big cities, you get to go in style in Indochina. Pay over $100 and you are royalty. Budget travelers and young backpackers flock to the region, and a big part of the charm is spending $5 to $7 per night. If your trip is short, live it up! Go for a luxury room; take advantage of affordable health and beauty or spa treatments (for a fraction of what you'd pay elsewhere). Midrange boutique hotels and rustic eco-friendly rural resorts are also a new trend as developers discover that "refurbished" is cool and that location -- whether overlooking the Mekong or set in a tropical rainforest -- is everything.

Many of the major chains are in the region. Sheraton and the Mövenpick have hotels in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Hilton has properties in Hanoi, and there's a Park Hyatt in Ho Chi Minh City. The French hoteliers at Accor host a number of Sofitel and Mercure hotels in Vietnam. Many of the big-city properties are aimed at the business market, but in Vietnam, the unique, refurbished Sofitel Metropole takes the cake. There are also a number of good individual brands in Vietnam: the likes of Daewoo in Hanoi, or the Rex and the Caravelle in Ho Chi Minh City.

Budget accommodations mean the ubiquitous minihotel. Quality varies, but these small Chinese-style hotels usually have air-conditioning, hot water, and cable TV starting at just $15. Some minihotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh are going boutique, a good trend. Maison d'Hanoi hotel in Hanoi is a good bet for a boutique hotel in a good location.

Whatever your financial situation, you will be greeted by high standards with good amenities and services at low cost in Vietnam.

Surfing for Hotels

In addition to the online travel booking sites Travelocity, Expedia, Orbitz, Priceline, and Hotwire, you can book hotels through Hotels.com, Quikbook (www.quikbook.com), and Travelaxe (www.travelaxe.net).

HotelChatter.com is a daily webzine offering smart coverage and critiques of hotels worldwide. Go to TripAdvisor.com or HotelShark.com for helpful independent consumer reviews of hotels and resort properties.

It's a good idea to get a confirmation number and make a printout of any online booking transaction.

Another good way to secure an affordable room is booking through an on-the-ground tour agent in Vietnam. Travel agents do, of course, tack on a fee for their services, but that's on top of a very low contract rate they have negotiated directly with the hotel. Vietnam-based online hotel booking is a singularly dodgy affair, but many report success with small local consolidators, exemplified by the likes of www.asia-hotels.com or www.vietnamrooms.com.

Staying Healthy

Health concerns should comprise an important piece of your preparation for a trip to Vietnam, and staying healthy on the road takes vigilance. Make it a priority. Tropical heat and mosquitoes are the biggest dangers, other than motor vehicle accidents, and travelers should exercise caution over the extreme change in diet and sanitary standards in Vietnam -- especially if eating at local joints. But with just a few pretrip precautions and general prudence, you can enjoy a safe and healthy trip. Consult with a health practitioner or someone specializing in travel health before your trip about inoculations. Stay abreast of international monitors, such as the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 877/FYI-TRIP [394-8747]; www.cdc.gov) or the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883, or 416/652-0137 in Canada; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns, as well as the most current information on any outbreaks of infectious diseases in the region.

General Availability of Healthcare -- The only high-quality healthcare facilities are located in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City each have a branch of the International SOS clinic. Hanoi also supports the Hanoi Family Medical Practice, as well as the Hanoi French Hospital. Your options in rural areas are quite limited, and any major medical issue usually means an uncomfortable transfer to one of these centers or an evacuation to Singapore, Bangkok, or Hong Kong.

In rural areas, the local apothecary shop often acts as a catchall triage for what ails you, and over-the-counter medications are available anywhere from small storefront pharmacists who, with little more than a brief chat and description of a problem (with the use of a phrase book or some creative charades), will dole out affordable prescriptions for anything from antibiotics to sleeping pills. However, there are a lot of fake medicines for sale, and storage conditions may be poor. I would recommend calling SOS, Family Practice, or your home country's embassy for recommendations of reliable pharmacies.

When you're far from good healthcare, I recommend bringing a small kit of medicines that includes antidiarrhea medication, rehydration salts for the ubiquitous bout with the trots, antibacterial cream and bandages, and a pain reliever like ibuprofen or acetaminophen.

Common Ailments

Tropical Illnesses -- Most of the real "baddies" in Vietnam and Cambodia are tropical diseases carried by mosquitoes: the likes of malaria, dengue fever, and Japanese encephalitis. Quite simply, the best way to avoid mosquito-borne diseases is to avoid being bitten. Repellents that contain between 25% and 50% DEET are the most effective. The more gentle alternatives, including oil of eucalyptus (look for baby-care products in any pharmacy) provide terrific DEET-free mosquito protection but are not as effective. A new product on the market, picaridin, also offers DEET-free protection. It's an excellent repellent, but at 7% concentration, it may last for a shorter period of time. Also be aware that malaria mosquitoes bite most frequently around dawn and dusk, so exercise caution especially at those hours (wearing long sleeves and long trousers and burning mosquito coils is a good idea). Dengue-fever mosquitoes bite during the day. Always sleep under a mosquito net where needed -- and if they are needed, they are usually provided -- and make sure it has no holes (or at least patch them up with tape). If you are purchasing your own mosquito net, it is most effective if it has been pretreated with permethrin, which is a very safe insecticide.

Malaria -- Three hundred million people are infected with malaria yearly, with over one million deaths, particularly in developing countries. The disease has four strains, including deadly cerebral malaria (common in Africa), but all are life threatening. Malaria is caused by a one-cell parasite transmitted by the female Anopheles mosquito. The parasite travels into the liver, lies dormant, and grows; then symptoms occur when the parasite enters the bloodstream. Symptoms include high fever, painful headaches in the front of the head, nausea, vomiting, dizziness, and confusion. If experiencing any degree of these indicators, seek treatment. Keep in mind that malaria symptoms look like a number of diseases (even just a flu).

Malaria is a concern for travelers in Vietnam. But don't stress out over the bogus information you might hear and read -- the kind of stuff that would keep you up all night listening for skeeters or vacationing somewhere else. Arm yourself with correct information, and forget the rest.

First, know that visitors to the major cities and standard coastal tour areas in Vietnam have a very low chance of contracting malaria -- very low. Travelers venturing off the track and up into the bush in the Central Highlands or the interior in the central, north, or Mekong Delta will want to take a malaria prophylaxis. A standard course of mefloquine (brand name Lariam) or atovaquone/proguanil (brand name Malarone) will cover you. In farther "off-the-track" border regions near Myanmar, Laos, and Cambodia -- areas where a resistance to standard medications has developed -- travelers should take Doxycycline.

Your best insurance is to take care when sleeping: Ensure that windows are closed (when you have air-conditioning) and that you have a good mosquito net when needed (typically provided). Also, cover up in Vietnam -- wear a long-sleeve shirt and trousers in the evening; this not only keeps the mosquitoes at bay, but moderate attire is also the social norm in conservative Vietnam (and also much cooler in the hot months). Put bug spray (preferably with DEET) on exposed areas of the skin, and avoid swampy marshes or heavy jungle at dawn and dusk. Don't let fears of malaria ruin your trip, and don't buy into the paranoia going around. Take these precautions -- as needed -- and all will be well.

However, no antimalarial drug is 100% effective. If you develop fever and chills while traveling or after your return home, seek medical care and tell the provider that you have traveled to a malarious area and need to be checked.

Dengue Fever -- Dengue fever is possible to contract just about anywhere in Southeast Asia. Dengue is a viral infection spread by the Aedes-Aegypti mosquito. Symptoms include headache, high fever, and muscle pain. Unlike malaria and Japanese encephalitis, which survive and spread mostly out in rural areas, dengue knows no bounds and urban outbreaks are common. There is no prophylaxis and no treatment -- and some cases are fatal -- but with dengue, it is just a matter of suffering it out with cold compresses, fever-reducing pain relievers, and lots of hydration. A real drag.

Japanese Encephalitis -- Japanese encephalitis is viral, transmitted by mosquitoes, and is endemic to the region -- especially after rainy season (July-Aug). Symptoms include headache, fever, nausea, upset stomach, and confusion -- all quite similar to malaria and dengue fever. When outbreaks occur, or if traveling widely in rural parts, vaccination is recommended, but note that vaccination is not 100% effective.

Hepatitis -- Another common but preventable ailment in Vietnam is hepatitis A, which causes inflammation of the liver. Hepatitis A is contracted from contaminated water or food, and the pathogen of hep A is rather stalwart, staying alive in the air and on the skin for some time. The best preventative is to wash your hands thoroughly before eating and stick to bottled water and food cooked to order (not sitting out). Symptoms include fever, general ill health (nausea and vomiting), lack of appetite, and jaundice.

For anyone over the age of 2 traveling in Vietnam, I'd recommend a hepatitis A vaccination. The inoculation requires just one shot and a booster after 6 months.

Hepatitis B is contracted through contact with blood of an infected person (needle, sexual contact, splashed blood, or even sharing a toothbrush or razor -- insist on a new razor if you get a haircut and shave). Nurses, for example, are commonly immunized in any country, and the three shots (over a 6-month period) are recommended for a longer stay in the region.

Rabies -- Rabies is a fatal viral infection carried by animals. The disease is transmitted by a bite or contact with the saliva of an infected animal. Rabies is a concern in rural Vietnam, among populations of dogs, as well as monkeys and bats. If exposed in any way -- a puncture wound of any kind from a suspected animal who exhibits strange behaviors such as foaming at the mouth or ataxia -- seek treatment immediately and follow a series of vaccinations over a 1-month period -- commonly the Verorab brand. Adventure travelers or health workers who will spend lots of time in the countryside and the bush might just want to consider a pre-exposure vaccination, which makes post-exposure treatment far more simple, as it decreases the number of shots required as well as prevents the need for rabies immune globulin, which may not be available and thus may require a trip elsewhere for care (for example, Bangkok). Another group at high risk is children. They are more likely to touch or play with stray dogs and are less likely to report a bite.

Typhoid -- A bacterial illness that is transmitted through contaminated food, typhoid is life threatening, especially to children and the elderly, but early detection and a course of antibiotics is usually enough to avoid any serious complications. There are a few different vaccinations available in both oral and injectable forms. Though they are only between 55% and 70% effective, the vaccine is recommended for travelers in the region.

Tuberculosis -- As in so many developing countries, tuberculosis is quite common, especially in rural Vietnam. Caused by poor hygiene and unventilated overcrowding, TB is a bacterial infection of the lungs that can spread to other parts of the body and, if left untreated, kill. The vaccination requires a TB screening 6 months prior to inoculation.

Sexually Transmitted Diseases -- Anyone contemplating sexual activity in Vietnam should be aware that HIV, the virus that causes AIDS, is rampant in many Southeast Asian countries, including Vietnam. Also concerning are other sexually transmitted diseases (STDs), such as gonorrhea, syphilis, herpes, and hepatitis B. A latex condom is recommended second to abstinence. For more information on AIDS, see the AIDS sidebar below.

AIDS in Vietnam -- Statistics on AIDS in Vietnam are unreliable because of limited testing, but with increased border crossings from China and rampant prostitution -- including, sadly, a great deal of child prostitution -- the prognosis is not good. Estimates report that about 0.5% of the general population in Vietnam is infected with HIV. However, this proportion can be much higher in commercial sex workers (possibly up to 60%-70% in some areas) and intravenous drug users (possibly up to 60%-80% in some areas).

Unprotected sex with an anonymous partner is very risky behavior. Although condoms are widely available in Vietnam, be aware that certain groups still have very high HIV/AIDS infection rates. International monitors with the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention and other agencies are working with the Hanoi government on HIV/AIDS prevention, care, and treatment. An increasing campaign is promoting the use of condoms -- you'll see lots of signs with cartoon character condoms smiling and waving from the roadside, needle users underneath skull and crossbones, or a happy young couple embracing, a condom in the young man's hand. But generally speaking, Vietnam's remaining fears of outside influence and continued tight control on information -- combined with a certain shame over even talking about issues of sex -- are ripe ground for the disease to spread. Time will tell.

Other Diseases -- Other diseases common in the region include schistosomiasis and giardia, both of which are parasitic diseases that can be contracted from swimming in or drinking from stagnant or untreated water in lakes or streams. Cholera epidemics sometimes occur in remote areas. Keep an eye on the CDC website or other international health monitors to stay informed of any health hot spots.

Dietary Red Flags

Unless you intend to confine your travels to the big cities and dine only at restaurants that serve Western-style food, you'll likely sample some new cuisine. Initially, this could cause an upset stomach or diarrhea, but it usually lasts just a few days as your body adapts to the change in your diet.

Always drink bottled water (never use tap water for drinking). To be safe, you should even brush your teeth with bottled water. The old adage of "Boil it, cook it, peel it, or forget it" is important to remember in Vietnam. Be sure to peel all fruits and vegetables and avoid raw shellfish and seafood. Also beware of ice unless it is made from purified water. Any suspicious water can be purified by boiling for 10 minutes or treating with purifying tablets. If you're a vegetarian, you will find that Vietnam is a great place to travel; vegetarian dishes abound throughout the region (just say Toi ahn jai, which means "I eat vegetarian").

In terms of hygiene, restaurants are generally better options than street stalls. But don't forgo good local cuisine just because it's served from a cart or dining is on squat stools at street side -- this is where you'll find some of the best food in Vietnam, as well as the highest likelihood of a stomach cootie. It is acceptable -- in fact, customary -- to wipe down utensils in restaurants, and in some places locals request a glass of hot water for just that purpose. Carrying antiseptic hand-washing liquid is also not a bad idea.

So how can you tell if something will upset your stomach before you eat it? Trust your instincts. Avoid buffet-style places, especially on the street, and be sure that all food is cooked thoroughly and made to order. I've been plenty sick my share of times and have found that each time I get into trouble, I've usually felt a certain sense of dread from the start. If your gut tells you not to eat that gelatinous chicken foot, don't eat it. If your hosts insist but you're still nervous, explain about your "foreign stomach" with a regretful smile and accept a cup of tea instead. Be careful of raw ingredients, common as garnish on Vietnamese dishes. Questions like, "Are these vegetables washed in clean water?" are inappropriate anywhere. Use your best judgment or simply decline.

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns

All kinds of creepy critters live in a tropical climate. Mosquito nets in rural accommodations are often required and, if so, are always provided by hoteliers. Check your shoes in the morning (or wear sandals) just in case some little ugly thing is taking a nap in your Nikes. Keep an eye out for snakes and poisonous spiders when in jungle terrain or when doing any trekking. Having a guide doesn't preclude exercising caution. Rabies is a concern in rural areas of Vietnam, and extreme care should be taken when walking rural roads, especially at night, when you might want to carry a walking stick or umbrella as a deterrent to any mangy mutts. Vietnamese street mutts, the ones who escape the stew pot, have all been hit with stones; if you are threatened by a dog, the very act of reaching to the ground for a handful of stones is often enough to send the beast packing. Some travelers, especially those spending a lot of time in the back of beyond, get a rabies pre-exposure vaccine. If you are bitten, wash the wound immediately and, even if you suffer just the slightest puncture or scrape, seek medical attention and a series of rabies shots (now quite a simple affair of injections in the arm in a few installments over several weeks). The best advice: Stay away from dogs.

Respiratory Illnesses

SARS hit the region hard in the winter and spring of 2003. Singapore reported some cases and essentially closed to tourism, and though most other countries in the region reported no cases of the disease, places like Thailand, Vietnam, and Cambodia suffered the fallout of the region-wide scare. At press time, there are no new cases in the region.

Following right on the heels of the SARS crisis, which was devastating to tourism in Vietnam, the avian influenza, also called the "bird flu," caused another public-relations nightmare throughout the region. The danger of humans contracting bird flu is still rather low, and limited to people working in poultry slaughterhouses. Millions of chickens suspected of carrying the illness have been culled, and the countries affected have been unusually forthright about reporting new cases and combating outbreak. Human-to-human transmissions -- caused by a mutation of the poultry-borne disease -- have not been reported. For more information, check the CDC website for the most up-to-date information about the disease. It is important to note that you cannot contract bird flu from consuming cooked chicken.

Air quality is not good in the larger cities like Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Haiphong, and Danang; with no emissions standards, buses, trucks, and cars belch some toxic stuff. Visitors with respiratory concerns or sensitivity should take caution. Tuberculosis is a concern in more remote areas where testing is still uncommon.

Sun/Elements/Extreme Weather Exposure

Sun and heatstroke are a major concern in Vietnam. Locals wear those cool conical hats and long-sleeve shirts and trousers for a reason. Limit your exposure to the sun, especially during the first few days of your trip and, thereafter, from 11am to 2pm. Use a sunscreen with a high protection factor and apply it liberally. Asian people are still big fans of parasols, so don't be shy about using an umbrella to shade yourself (all the Buddhist monks do), but note that it is a decidedly feminine choice of accessory. Remember that children need more protection than adults.

Always be sure to drink plenty of bottled water, which is the best defense against heat exhaustion and the more serious, life-threatening heatstroke. Coffee, tea, soft drinks, and alcoholic beverages should not be substituted for water; they are diuretics that dehydrate the body. In extremely hot and humid weather, try to stay out of the midday heat, and confine most of your daytime traveling to early morning and late afternoon. If you ever feel weak, fatigued, dizzy, or disoriented, get out of the sun immediately and go to a shady, cool place. To prevent sunburn, always wear a hat and apply sunscreen to all exposed areas of skin.

Be aware of major weather patterns; many island destinations are prone to typhoons or severe storms.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

Reliable emergency service is limited to Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh. Any foreign consulate can provide a list of area doctors who speak English. If you get sick, consider asking your hotel concierge to recommend a local doctor or nearby pharmacist. Some larger hotels and resorts have on-call nurses and doctors available for "room calls." Do not get involved with local hospitals, many of which have an archaic standard of care, unless in the most dire situation or as a base for an evacuation.

For travel abroad, you may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later. Medicare and Medicaid do not provide coverage for medical costs outside the U.S. Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. To protect yourself, consider buying medical travel insurance. (For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/planning.)

Very few health insurance plans pay for medical evacuation back to the U.S. (which can cost $10,000 and up). A number of companies offer medical evacuation services anywhere in the world. If you're ever hospitalized more than 150 miles from home, MedjetAssist (tel. 800/527-7478; www.medjetassistance.com) will pick you up and fly you to the hospital of your choice virtually anywhere in the world in a medically equipped and staffed aircraft 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Annual memberships are $225 individual, $350 family; you can also purchase short-term memberships.

U.K. nationals will need a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) to receive free or reduced-cost health benefits during a visit to a European Economic Area (EEA) country (European Union countries plus Iceland, Liechtenstein, and Norway) or Switzerland. The European Health Insurance Card replaces the E111 form, which is no longer valid. For advice, ask at your local post office or see www.dh.gov.uk/travellers.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise, they won't make it through airport security. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.

Regions in Brief

Vietnam is an S-shape peninsula that borders China to the north, Laos to the west, and Cambodia to the southwest. Covering about 331,520 sq. km (129,293 sq. miles), it's roughly the size of Italy, but only a small percentage of the land is arable and habitable because of the Annamese Cordillera and other steep mountain ranges and mountain terrain. Vietnam has a varied and lush topography, with two massive deltas (one in the north and one in the south), tropical forests, craggy mountains and rock formations, and stunning coastline. Vietnam is only about 1,613km (1,000 miles) north to south as the crow flies, but by road and along the stretch of coastal highway, it's about 3,260km (2,021 miles). Vietnam also claims thousands of islands off its coast.

Rice is the staple of Vietnam, and the economy and society relies heavily on its production. The shape of Vietnam is often compared to a common sight in any Vietnamese market: the tenuous balancing of a bamboo pole slung over one woman's shoulder as she hangs pendulous bundles on either side of her body. The thin central coast of the country is the bamboo shaft of the fragile contraption, and the productive rice-growing regions of the Red River Delta in the north and the fertile Mekong Delta in the far south are the overflowing "bread baskets" that hang from the pole. But drawn to scale, it might be a bit lopsided -- the Mekong is exponentially more productive.

The North -- Bac Bo is the Vietnamese term for the north, the cradle of Vietnamese civilization along the country's own version of the Tigris and Euphrates, the Red River Delta. Called the Song Hong in Vietnamese, the river is the epicenter of prehistoric culture and early empires, where organized wet rice cultivation, done on flooded paddies and requiring extensive community cooperation, began. The Red River Delta gave birth to the first Au Lac dynasty and earliest capital at Co Loa -- just north of Vietnam's current capital, Hanoi, which lies at the heart of the region. Just east of Hanoi, the busy port of Haiphong leads the way to the 3,000 islands of the stunning Halong Bay; most of the islands are unlivable but are a stunning set piece of towering karst, or limestone, formations shrouded in jungle. Where Hanoi's creation myth speaks of the ascending dragon Thang Long, the mountains of the bay are said to be the footprints of the descending dragon, or Ha Long, as it went to its home in the ocean deep.

The northern highlands, occupying the northwest tip of Vietnam, are known for their beauty, with jagged mountains rising over sweeping green valleys. The inhabitants are mostly ethnic minority hilltribes still somewhat isolated from civilization. Popular tourism destinations are Sapa, Lao Cai, and Dien Bien Phu. Vietnam's tallest mountain, Fansipan (3,143 m/10,309 ft.), overlooks Sapa, part of the mountain range the French dubbed "The Tonkinese Alps."

Central -- Central Vietnam, or Trung Bo, flanks the long line of the Trung Son Mountain range, also called the Annamese Cordillera. In this volume, I divide the center into the north center, where you'll find the cities of Vinh, Hue, Danang, and historic Hoi An, and the south center, where you'll find the beach community of Nha Trang, as well as the temperate, hilly Central Highlands region, with small towns like Pleiku and the city of Dalat.

Traveling south from Hanoi, visitors trace the central coastline, location of major cities Hue, Danang, and Hoi An. The small town of Vinh, birthplace of Ho Chi Minh, is just halfway between Hanoi and Hue. And Hue (pronounced Hway), a name familiar from the war years for its strategic location near the 17th Parallel, is Vietnam's former capital and imperial city (1802-1945). Going south from Hue, crossing over the high Hai Van Pass before dropping back to the coast and the small beach area of Lang Co and nearby Bach Ma National Park, is Danang, Vietnam's fourth-largest city and a port town whose major attractions include the museum of Cham antiquities and nearby China Beach. Nearby Hoi An, a major trading center from the mid-16th century, shows the architectural influences of Chinese and Japanese traders who passed through and settled here, leaving perfectly preserved buildings. It is now once again a center of cultural exchange and commerce, but is tourist-focused with souvenir centers and tailor shops (also lots of new resorts on nearby Cua Dai Beach).

Tracing the coast farther south from Hoi An, pass through the small port city of Quy Nhon, uninteresting but for a few nice new resort offerings, and then on to Nha Trang, Vietnam's preeminent sea resort, where new upmarket offerings are popping up like mushrooms on a log. Just inland from the south-central coast area, you'll find the Central Highlands area, a temperate, hilly region occupied by many of Vietnam's ethnic minorities. Most popular and developed for tourists is historic Dalat, a resort town nestled in the Lang Bien Plateau, established by the French at the turn of the 20th century as a recreation and convalescence center. The scenery looks something like Switzerland in summer, with high hills studded with tall pines and peppered with quaint, French contemporary villas, most in a sad state of decay. North of Dalat, the Annamese Cordillera mountain range hosts the little hill town of Buon Ma Thuot, Pleiku, and Kontum, all names familiar from the war era and home to some of the hottest fighting at that time.

The South -- Southern Vietnam, called Nam Bo, is home to Vietnam's largest city, bustling Ho Chi Minh City, also known as Saigon. Vietnam's largest cosmopolitan area is like a region unto itself, with a population of more than eight million spreading out over a wide area of urban and suburban sprawl. Tay Ninh is a town just to the north and west of Saigon that's home to the unique Cao Dai sect and the end of the Ho Chi Minh Trail at the Black Mountain. Some of the heaviest fighting during the war took place here, much of it planned from the tunnels of Cu Chi. The south is hotter, in climate as well as cuisine.

South of Ho Chi Minh City is the Mekong Delta, where, after a 4,500km (2,790-mile) journey from the mountains of Tibet, the mighty Mekong splits into nine smaller branches and a wide alluvial plain as it deposits its silt on the way to the South China Sea. The well-irrigated delta is the most agriculturally productive region of Vietnam, where most of the country's rice is grown, and where the population has swelled in recent years with increased productivity and industries like fish farming and shrimp cultivation. The climate of the delta is tropical; the lower delta is untamed swampland. The region shows the influences of ancient Funan and Khmer cultures, as well as the scars from recent wars (the Viet Cong used the delta as a secret base) and battles with neighboring Cambodia.

Tips for Student Travelers

Vietnam is a hot destination for budget-minded (I didn't say poor) students. Commonly, young backpackers hit the shores in Southeast Asia and travel for extended periods of time, with Vietnam just one stop on an extended tour. Starting from bases like Hanoi's Old Quarter, Saigon's Pham Ngu Lao area, or over on Khao San Road in Bangkok, budget travelers have roamed the rugged highways and byways of Vietnam and broader Indochina for years, paving the way for high-end tourism. More remote areas are relegated to this hearty horde, and rural roads still beckon with the promise of friendships (often through shared strife) and broadening experiences.

Any discounts to be found in Vietnam and Southeast Asia come from hard bargaining or tolerance for the most basic accommodations, but it's not a bad idea to have an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which offers substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, and entrance fees. It also provides you with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is available for $22 from STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world. If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) for the same price from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts (but not on museum admissions). (Note: In 2002, STA Travel bought competitors Council Travel and USIT Campus after they went bankrupt. It's still operating some offices under the Council name, but it's owned by STA.) Travel CUTS (tel. 866/246-9762; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1904; www.usitnow.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

The websites listed provide downloadable passport applications, as well as the current fees for processing passport applications. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "Foreign Entry Requirement" Web page of the U.S. State Department at http://travel.state.gov.

For other information, please contact the following agencies:

For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland -- Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh).

For Residents of New Zealand -- Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

Vietnam recently began granting 5-year visa exemptions to all overseas Vietnamese in over 90 countries. The exemption applies to individuals who have Vietnamese nationality and foreign nationals of Vietnamese origin. If you are the spouse or child of someone who qualifies, you can have your very own visa-free status, so long as your husband, wife, or parent has obtained the exemption first. Check out http://mienthithucvk.mofa.gov.vn for instructions and regulations. It can be a lengthy process, so apply at your nearest Vietnamese embassy or consulate well ahead of your trip.

Residents of the United States, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and the United Kingdom need both a passport and a prearranged visa to enter Vietnam. A tourist visa lasts for 30 days and costs $65. You'll pay a bit more through an agent but will save yourself some paper shuffling. Note: If you're planning a side trip to Angkor Wat but your return flight leaves from Vietnam, make sure to get a multiple-entry visa to get back into the country. A multiple-entry 30-day visa costs $110. A visa takes 5 to 7 days to process. Applicants must submit an application, a passport, and two passport photos. U.S. citizens can obtain a visa application from the Vietnam Embassy in Washington, D.C., online at www.vietnamembassy-usa.org, or by calling tel. 202/861-1297. Mail the completed application with your passport and your passport photos using an express carrier (Federal Express, US Express, or Priority Mail with delivery confirmation) to the embassy (1233 20th St. NW, Ste. 400, Washington, DC 20036), including a self-addressed stamped envelope from an express carrier (with delivery confirmation). Processing time is usually 5 days, but for a small fee, you can expedite it to as few as 2 days, and even less in last-minute circumstances (call to see what you can arrange). The embassy is open Monday to Friday from 9:30am to 12:30pm. The fax number is 202/861-1297.

Although there's no official policy, once inside Vietnam, most tourists can extend their visa twice, each time for 30 days, but this is done on a case-by-case basis, and it's possible only through a travel agent (government-owned Saigontourist is a good bet; for more information, call tel. 08/3824-4554 or go to www.saigontourist.net). If someone gives you trouble about extending your visa, stick to your guns and ask around. Multiple-entry business visas that are valid for up to 3 months are available, but you must have a sponsoring agency in Vietnam and it can take much longer to process. For short business trips, it's less complicated simply to enter as a tourist.

You no longer need to specify an entry point; Vietnam visas are good for any legal port of entry -- land, sea, or air -- but remember that your visa begins on the date that you specify on your application.

In a bid to boost investment and cooperation, Vietnam has lifted visa requirements for Japanese and Koreans -- a good sign that visa restrictions for Western visitors might loosen up soon.

For information about Vietnamese visas, go to www.vietnamembassy-usa.org and click on "Visa -- Consular Services." Or go to one of the following websites:

Australian citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the Vietnam Embassy at 6 Timbarra Crescent, Malley, Canberra, ACT 2606 (tel. 2/6286-6059; www.vietnamembassy.org.au), or at the Consulate General of Vietnam at 489 New South Head Rd., Double Bay, Sydney, NSW 2028 (tel. 2/9327-2539; www.vietnamconsulate.org.au).

British and Irish subjects can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the Vietnam Embassy at 12-14 Victoria Rd., London W8-5RD, U.K. (tel. 0171/937-1912; fax 0171/937-6108) or by visiting the "Vietnam Visa" section of the website at www.vietnamembassy.org.uk.

Canadian citizens can obtain visa information from the Vietnam Embassy at 470 Wilbrod St., Ottawa, ON K1N 6M8 (tel. 613/236-1398; www.vietnamembassy-canada.ca).

Citizens of New Zealand can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the Vietnam Embassy, Level 21 Grand Plimmer Tower, 2-6 Gilmer Terrace, Wellington (tel. 4/473-5912; www.vietnamembassy-newzealand.org).

Customs

What You Can Bring into Vietnam -- The first and most important thing to remember is, don't lose your entry/exit slip, the white piece of paper that will be clipped to your passport upon arrival. If you do, you might be fined. If you are entering the country as a tourist, you do not need to declare electronic goods and jewelry if these things are for personal use. Declaration forms are only to make sure you're not importing goods without paying a tariff. You must declare cash in excess of $3,000 or the equivalent. You can also import 200 cigarettes, 2 liters of alcohol, and perfume for personal use.

It is unlikely that you will be hassled in Vietnam for bringing anything in, but be careful if bringing excessive equipment. Adventurers with bicycles or special kites for kite surfing will have to prove that they will be taking their expensive items home with them and not selling them in Vietnam. Commercial photographers or amateurs who work with professional, high-end equipment should be wary of bringing the whole studio with them. The atmosphere is lightening up, but foreign journalists still provoke fear (the Communist Party still hopes to maintain their information vacuum). More than 30 rolls of film is suspect, but just play dumb and there'll be no problem.

What You Can Take Home from Vietnam -- For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

There are no specific health requirements for entry into Vietnam.

Getting There

By Plane

The three international airports in Vietnam are Tan Son Nhat International (SGN) in Ho Chi Minh City, Noi Bai International (HAN) in Hanoi, and Danang International (DAT) in Danang (central Vietnam). Vietnam Airlines has hubs in both Tan Son Nhat and Noi Boi. Most carriers connect to Vietnam's three international airports via Singapore, Bangkok (Thailand), Hong Kong, Taipei (Taiwan), or Seoul (South Korea).

Getting into Town from the Airport -- In Hanoi, taxis queue up just outside the arrivals door and will zip you into town for 230,000 VND to 250,000 VND. Taxis to and from Danang's airport will set you back 60,000 VND. Down south, a ride into Ho Chi Minh City is around 180,000 VND.

By Car

The overland route from Phnom Penh to Vietnam is reportedly safe and quite accessible. You can arrange transfers with any of the Phnom Penh travel agencies, the best of which is budget Capitol Tour, #14 Rd. 182, Phnom Penh (tel. 023/217-627), which cooperates with the Vietnamese budget-cafe tour operator Sinh Café to make for a relatively fluid connection between the Cambodian capital and Ho Chi Minh City. Note: You must have a prearranged Vietnamese visa when entering Vietnam (visa on arrival is available in the other direction, from Vietnam to Cambodia). Buses leave from the Capitol Tour office in the early morning, arriving in Ho Chi Minh in the midafternoon, depending on the efficiency of the connection. (Note that you'll have to lug your own bags through the long border checkpoint here.)

You can do this same trip by rented car with driver, but you'll have to make separate arrangements on either side of the border, since vehicles cannot cross.

From Laos -- I wouldn't really recommend this long overnight road trip from Vientiane or Savannakhet. You're dropped off smack in the center of Vietnam, at Dong Ha Province just north of Hue (makes for a more limited itinerary or backtracking). It's better to fly from Vientiane to Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City on Vietnam Airlines or Laos Aviation. Note that any connections with the city of Luang Prabang must go through the Laos capital, Vientiane.

By Train

There are regular connections between Vietnam and China at the border areas of Lang Son and Lao Cai, both in the far north. Note that you need prearranged visas for entrance into China and Vietnam, so be sure to plan ahead if traveling in either direction. Trains do not make direct connections to both border points (Lao Cai is far more efficient); you must take short taxi/motorbike taxi rides on either side of the border to get to public transport.

By Boat

You can cross to Vietnam by boat from a port near the Cambodian capital of Phnom Penh to Chau Doc, a small Vietnamese border town in the Mekong Delta. Contact budget Capitol Tour in Cambodia for connections.

A unique new option is the weeklong cruise from Angkor Wat all the way to Can Tho or My Tho on one of the luxury, shallow draft Pandaw Cruise Boats (www.pandaw.com). Shared rooms on the vessel start at $2,069 for the 1-week duration.

Tips for Families

If you have enough trouble getting your kids out of the house in the morning, dragging them thousands of miles away might seem like an insurmountable challenge. But family travel can be immensely rewarding, giving you new ways of seeing the world through smaller pairs of eyes.

The rough roads of Vietnam can be a bit much for little ones, and concerns about communicable diseases in rural areas should certainly be weighed (be sure to check with your healthcare provider and be vigilant about updating all vaccinations). However, more accessible destinations and larger cities offer a glimpse into ancient civilization and varied culture that delights the kid in all of us.

Traveling families report no unique hassles to bringing the kids along to Vietnam. Most families choose to fly from place to place within the country, though, and avoid overcrowded local transport (though the trains, especially to Sapa in the far north, are pretty doable and a good adventure). Most hotels can arrange extra beds at little additional cost, and connecting-room capability is common.

The larger resort destinations -- the better hotels in Nha Trang, Hoi An, and the Furama Resort in Danang -- are quite kid friendly. Many families choose a comfortable hotel and make culturally rich Hanoi a hub for trips to Halong Bay and Sapa, but the whole length of Vietnam's coast is open to exploration by the adventurous traveling brood. Kids love eating ice cream in the many open-air joints surrounding Hoan Kiem Lake in Hanoi, and war tourism seems to spark something in boys (of all ages). The War Museum in Ho Chi Minh City -- with tanks, planes, and artillery in the large courtyard -- seems to delight kids and is a highlight, but be forewarned: There are also many grisly images in this museum. Kids love crawling through the tunnels in Cu Chi or Vinh Moc and the Central Highlands town of Dalat, which, with its tattered Disney-like sights and fun day hikes, is a favorite for kids. Kids always enjoy rapping with the hilltribe people in Sapa -- a fun clash of culture because the young ethnic hilltribe folks speak English well and are eager to chat with foreigners their age -- this also means that your kids might come home with a few words of Hmong, Dao, or Vietnamese, and maybe even a pen pal.

The big hotels all have pools, oceanside resorts are great places to play, and every major city has a big water park that, though sometimes a bit grungy, appeals to both parents and kids wanting to escape from the heat and connect with locals. You'll find willing -- and affordable -- babysitters in even the smallest hotel or guesthouse, and Vietnamese dote on children, meaning your clan will get lots of attention everywhere you go. Some parents are surprised at how easily kids adapt -- much better than parents sometimes -- adventurously hopping on boats and fearlessly meeting with locals.

A note of warning: People generally love kids in Vietnam, and foreign children are sure to attract lots of attention -- sometimes far too much, actually, and it can be a bit overwhelming. With the most friendly of intentions, Vietnamese often like to touch foreign kids, tousle their hair, or brush a cheek and dote like your favorite auntie does back home, which can be disconcerting or confusing for kids (even from auntie). It's a good idea to warn your kids that this might happen, and it's also okay to step in front of people and kindly but firmly say "No" or Khong tich (he/she doesn't like that) while brushing away a hand. You might also find yourself in "walking zoo" moments, where groups of Vietnamese tourists want photos of themselves -- and this is most common at the big sights -- with foreign people. Again, this can be overwhelming, and saying no is fine, but you can also just warn your child about it and roll with the punches. As much as possible, talk with people; this takes away the freaky "sideshow" vibe and puts you on a level of "relating," as all parents do, rather than comparing your differences.

For further details on requirements for children traveling abroad, go to the U.S. State Department website (http://travel.state.gov).

Recommended family-travel Internet sites include Family Travel Forum (www.familytravelforum.com), a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning; Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), an award-winning site that offers travel features, deals, and tips; Traveling Internationally with Your Kids (www.travelwithyourkids.com), a comprehensive site offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children; and Family Travel Files (www.thefamilytravelfiles.com), which offers an online magazine and a directory of off-the-beaten-path tours and tour operators for families.

Tips for Women Travelers

Women traveling alone in Vietnam face no particular safety issues, and common sense should keep anyone safe. If alone, female travelers in Vietnam (everyone, really) are repeatedly grilled about their marital status and, if single, pitied -- a bit exhausting after a while. Some women even revert to wearing wedding bands to end those conversations before they begin. No particular vigilance is required for female travelers, as violent crime is minimal in Vietnam, but the usual precautions about walking alone at night and hitchhiking certainly apply, as anywhere. "Catcalling" happens but is rarely sinister or followed by any action.

For general travel resources for women, go to www.frommers.com/planning.

Escorted & Package Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

Whether you want to ride an elephant through the jungle, trek among indigenous people, shake hands with a gibbon, swim beneath a waterfall, snorkel in a clear blue lagoon, lounge on a white-sand beach, or wander through exotic markets, there's a Vietnam tour packager for you, offering a wide range of travel options using the finest and most reliable travel services available in the region.

Among the most experienced and knowledgeable tour operators specializing in Vietnam and Southeast Asia are Absolute Asia and Asia Transpacific Journeys. In-country tour providers Diethelm and Exotissimo can do anything from arranging deluxe tours to just helping out with any small details or bookings. Most companies allow clients to design their own trips or deviate from exact schedules (often at a small cost). Companies like Intrepid, among others, offer unique itineraries for solo travelers. Here are the top outfitters:

Abercrombie & Kent -- Well-known luxury-tour operator Abercrombie & Kent offers Southeast Asia programs with numerous comprehensive itineraries, including expansive tours to Vietnam and Cambodia. A journey with A & K includes the best dining and luxury transport, as well as high-end stays at the finest hotels in Southeast Asia and Vietnam, such as the Metropole in Hanoi or the finer beach resorts near Nha Trang. In the United States: 1520 Kensington Rd., Ste. 212, Oakbrook, IL 60523-2141; tel. 800/323-7308; fax 630/954-3324; www.aandktours.com.

Absolute Asia -- Founded in 1989, Absolute Asia offers an array of innovative itineraries, specializing in individual or small-group tours customized to your interests, with experienced local guides and excellent accommodations. Talk to them about tours that feature art, cuisine, religion, antiques, photography, wildlife study, archaeology, and soft adventure -- they can plan a specialized trip to see just about anything you can dream up for any length of time. They can also book you on excellent coach programs in Vietnam or throughout Indochina. In the United States: 180 Varick St., 16 Floor, New York, NY 10014; tel. 800/736-8187; fax 212/627-4090; www.absoluteasia.com.

Asia Transpacific Journeys -- Coordinating tours to every corner of South and Southeast Asia and the Pacific, Asia Transpacific Journeys deals with small groups and custom programs that include luxury hotel accommodations. The flagship package, the 23-day Passage to Indochina tour, takes you through Laos, Vietnam, and Cambodia's major attractions with a well-planned itinerary that also promotes cultural understanding. A highly recommended choice. In the United States: 2995 Center Green Court, Boulder, CO 80301; tel. 800/642-2742 or 303/443-6789; fax 303/443-7078; www.asiatranspacific.com.

Backroads -- For those who want to explore Vietnam by bike, cycling and hiking specialist Backroads has a 12-day Vietnam tour, among others. Check out their website; they're always coming up with new innovative itineraries in the region. In the United States: 801 Cedar St., Berkeley, CA 94710-1800; tel. 800/462-2848 or 510/527-1555; fax 510/527-1444; www.backroads.com.

Exotissimo -- A French outfit and outbound (in-country) agency with offices in every major city in the region, Exotissimo has excellent guides on-site. Agents can arrange all-inclusive tours and help with all travel details, from ticketing to visas. In France: 40 bis, Rue du fg Poissonniére, 75010 Paris; tel. (33)149/490-360; fax (33)149/490-369. In Vietnam: Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City; tel. 08/825-1723; fax 08/828-2146; www.exotissimo.com.

Imaginative Traveller -- This U.K.-based firm gets rave reviews every time for organizing all sorts of cycling, trekking, and motorcycling adventures throughout the region, particularly in Vietnam and Cambodia. In the U.K.: 1 Betts Ave., Martlesham Heath, Suffolk IP5 3RH; tel. 0800/316-2717; www.imaginative-traveller.com.

Intrepid -- This popular Australian operator is a good choice for getting off the beaten track on a tour of Vietnam. Intrepid caters tours for the culturally discerning, those with humanitarian goals, adventurers, and people on a budget. Their motto is their name, and with some of the best guides in Asia, these folks will take you to the back of beyond safely, in style, and with lots of laughs. A fun, fraternal vibe pervades these tours; it's especially great for the hearty adventurer looking to join a group. In Australia: Fitzroy, DC VIC 3065, 11 Spring St., Fitzroy, Victoria; tel. 613/9473-2626; fax 613/9419-4426; www.intrepidtravel.com. In the U.S.: 877/448-1616.

Pros & Cons of Escorted Tours

Many people like the ease and security of escorted trips. Escorted tours -- whether by bus, motorcoach, train, or boat -- let travelers sit back and enjoy their trip without having to spend lots of time behind the wheel or worrying about details. You know your costs upfront, and there are few surprises. Escorted tours can take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle -- you don't have to sweat over the plotting and planning of a vacation schedule. Escorted tours are particularly convenient for people with limited mobility. They can also be a great way to make new friends.

On the downside, an escorted tour often requires a big deposit upfront, and lodging and dining choices are predetermined. You'll get little opportunity for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jampacked with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure -- plus they also often focus only on the heavily visited sites, so you miss out on the lesser-known gems.

Before you invest in an escorted tour, ask about the cancellation policy: Is a deposit required? Can they cancel the trip if they don't get enough people? Do you get a refund if they cancel? If you cancel? How late can you cancel if you are unable to go? When do you pay in full?

Note: If you choose an escorted tour, think strongly about purchasing trip-cancellation insurance, especially if the tour operator asks you to pay upfront. (For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/planning.)

You'll also want to get a complete schedule of the trip to find out how much sightseeing is planned each day and whether enough time has been allotted for relaxing or wandering solo.

The size of the group is also important to know upfront. Generally, the smaller the group, the more flexible the itinerary, and the less time you'll spend waiting for people to get on and off the bus. Find out the demographics of the group as well. What is the age range? What is the gender breakdown? Is this mostly a trip for couples or singles?

Discuss what's included in the price. You may have to pay for transportation to and from the airport. A box lunch may be included in an excursion, but drinks might cost extra. Tips may not be included. Find out if you will be charged if you decide to opt out of certain activities or meals.

Before you invest in a package tour, get some answers. Ask about the accommodations choices and prices for each. Then look up the hotels' reviews in a Frommer's guide and check their rates online for your specific dates of travel. You'll also want to find out what type of room you get. If you need a certain type of room, ask for it; don't take whatever is thrown your way. Request a nonsmoking room, a quiet room, a room with a view, or whatever you fancy.

Finally, if you plan to travel alone, you'll need to know if a single supplement will be charged and if the company can match you up with a roommate.

For more information on escorted general-interest tours, including questions to ask before booking your trip, see www.frommers.com/planning.

Getting Around

With many transport options, you'll find good local travel agencies in every tourist stop in Vietnam, all ready to book your plane, bus, and boat tickets or to rent cars. Competition among service providers works to your advantage, and you can find affordable deals for getting around with just a bit of shopping.

By Plane

It's a good idea to fly the longer hops along Vietnam's length: from Hanoi to Hue, from Danang to Nha Trang, and from Nha Trang to Ho Chi Minh City (or vice versa). Vietnam Airlines runs the most domestic routes in Vietnam, while budget carrier Jet Star Asia offers healthy competition on the tourist routes (namely to-and-fros btw. Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Danang, and Nha Trang). Domestic departure tax is included in most fares.

By Car

If you've got the budget for it, going by car is the best and safest way to see Vietnam. Self-driving is unwise. There are rules on the road, but to the uninitiated, driving is chaotic. Your international driver's license holds up -- in fact, any piece of paper with English writing will do most of the time -- and right-lane driving might look familiar and easy to some, but that's where the similarity ends.

Turn it over to a driver, available for hire anywhere and for as little as $10 per day. Most hotels will rent wheels for day trips at inflated rates; budget hotels and guesthouses offer the best rates. Budget travelers often pitch in for a rented car between sites (from Hue to Nha Trang, for example), where going by private car means you can set your own schedule and stop at places like Bach Ma National Park, Lang Co Beach, and atop Hai Van Pass.

By Train

The Reunification Express runs the entire length of Vietnam's coast -- from Ho Chi Minh to Hanoi, with routes out of Hanoi to the likes of Sapa, Lang Son, and coastal Haiphong. Riding the length of the country takes nearly 40 hours. The most popular hops are from Hanoi up to Sapa, where special luxury trains with dining cars cover the route, or from Hanoi down the coast to the old capital of Hue, and from there to Danang (less popular) or all the way to Nha Trang and Ho Chi Minh. Improved road travel is making the train obsolete in most parts, except for the mountainous far north. There are a number of classes, from third-class hard seat to air-conditioned cushioned seat to sleeper, but in general the more comfortable seats are affordable. Be warned that you need to book trains a few days in advance, especially for weekend travel. Popular trips to Sapa are best organized through a tour company (for a small fee) from home or well in advance when on the ground in Vietnam.

By Bus

Local buses are either a nightmare or a delight, depending on your expectations. If you're prepared to be the main character in a piece of bad, chaotic performance, then your appetite will be pleased; if you want grist for the travel journal, you will find it; if you want to get somewhere efficiently and with all of your sensory nerve endings intact, you will be disappointed.

Local buses depart from stations usually a good distance from the town center (it usually requires a ride on the back of a motorbike taxi to get there), and station touts are all over you, pulling you this way and that (this is the best piece of "bad performance art"). Buses leave only when full -- and "full" means that everyone is uncomfortable, two to a seat, produce hanging, bags under your feet and, bird flu be damned, chickens in bags and on people's laps. Just when you think the bus is completely full, when not one more person could possibly squeeze in, the driver pulls to the side of the road and, like a circus clown car, the bus swallows one more body. All buses honk wildly as they navigate the chaotic traffic of Vietnam's bumpy roads, and all transport travels at a lumbering 50kmph (31 mph).

In the bigger cities and on longer routes, you'll find regular schedules and bus stations with ticket booths and marked prices, but when you're out in countryside, you often have to negotiate a price with the driver or bus tout -- a frustrating operation when you just want to catch the @#%# bus. It is a real visceral adventure, and going by local bus is the best way to meet Vietnamese people and learn the local language, but it can be too overwhelming for some.

One good alternative is to buy a ticket with assigned seat on the small air-conditioned minivans that ply most major routes in Vietnam (the Mai Linh Express is a reliable option). Ask at any hotel front desk, and expect to pay often double the local bus price (still very affordable) and ride in relative style among locals but without the hassles.

The "open tour" ticket is a way to plan your overland travel all the way down the coast of Vietnam; it is a one-way, multistop ticket, and you can catch buses from each town going from Hanoi south, all the way to Ho Chi Minh City. It sounds like a great idea, and folks in the sales offices will regale you with tales of ease and comfort as you explore the length of the Vietnam coast, but don't be fooled: These are rock-bottom budget tours, and though the buses are usually in pretty good shape and have air-conditioning, it can be a pretty unpleasant cattle-herding situation among lots of complaining backpackers. Buses stop only at big tourist-shopping complexes, and you get little interaction with locals. That said, these tour buses are good for short hops between cities, but I try to mix it up, catching the train where possible (especially on long hauls from Hanoi to Hue or Danang to Nha Trang), and even getting together with fellow travelers and hiring your own car for a day along the coast (not much more costly). Don't be taken in by the easy "open tour" ticket, as, for just a few bucks extra, you can buy individual journeys from each town as you head south.

Calendar of Events

In their daily lives, Vietnamese people follow the standard 12-month calendar, otherwise known as the Gregorian or solar calendar used in the West. However, most of Vietnam's small village fetes and holidays follow the traditional Chinese calendar, which has 355 days and adds a "leap month" every 3 years or so to keep up with the solar calendar. Following the Chinese lunar calendar means that most holidays correspond with the full moon (on the 15th of each lunar month) or no moon (on the 1st); it also means that holidays fall on different calendar dates each year. For example: Tet, the Lunar New Year and Vietnam's biggest holiday, will be on February 14, 2010; February 3, 2011; January 23, 2012; and February 10, 2013.

There is a variety of regional celebrations and local festivals among the ethnic majority Vietnamese. Add to that the many disparate holidays and practices of Vietnam's 54 ethnic groups, and you have holidays left and right; any rural trip means a good chance of stumbling onto something interesting. Vietnamese are inclusive about their celebrations; Tet, for example, is a family holiday, but a few shouts of Chuc Mung Nam Moi (Happy New Year!) usually mean getting swept up in the fervor. Surrender to it.

Be sure to ask around about market days in the Northern Highland areas -- when a big, traveling goods market comes into town (usually Sun). Also look for the likes of modern city festivals, like the hugely popular Hue Festival. Below are the major national holidays and festivals.

January/February

New Year's Day. Everything but Dick Clark. January 1.

Anniversary of the Founding of the Communist Party. Nationwide. Celebrated everywhere; expect parade grounds in any city to be busy with cultural shows and speechmaking. Waving massive red flags in open-air shows in the evening is always the finale. February 3.

Vietnam Traditional Lunar New Year Festival (Tet Nguyen Dan): Countrywide. This 4-day national holiday, Tet, usually falls between January and February. The festivities begin on New Year's Eve and the first 3 days of a Lunar New Year, but most people celebrate for a week or more. It's a time to be with family members. The first day of the first lunar month (Feb 14, 2010; Feb 3, 2011; Jan 23, 2012; and Feb 10, 2013).

March/April

Festival at the Perfume Pagoda. Near Hanoi. Buddhists from all over Vietnam make a pilgrimage to the deep cave at the apex of this holy mountain at the half-moon of the second lunar month (Mar 30, 2010; Mar 19, 2011; Mar 7, 2012; and Mar 26, 2013).

Hmong Spring Festival. In the far north. Hmong populations across the north converge for colorful parades and market days. Fifth day of the third lunar month (Apr 18, 2010; Apr 7, 2011; Mar 26, 2012; and Apr 14, 2013).

Gio To Hung Vuong. This new nationwide holiday (added in 2007) commemorates the death of Emperor Hung. According to legend, Emperor Hung ruled over what is now modern Vietnam some 50 centuries ago. Tenth day of the third lunar month (Apr 23, 2010; Apr 12, 2011; Mar 31, 2012; and Apr 19, 2013).

Saigon Liberation Day. Celebrated nationwide with lots of parades and commemorative TV programming. Apr 30.

May

International Labor Day. The communist marching day around the world. Celebrations and parades in central squares nationwide. May Day, May 1.

Birthday of President Ho Chi Minh. Nationwide. Cultural performances and candlelight vigils are held across the country. The major sights in Vinh, Ho Chi Minh's birthplace, are overrun, and Hanoi's Citadel area, where Ho's body is held in state, is mobbed. May 19.

August/September/October

Tet Trung Nguyen. Nationwide. A time to give thanks to the ancestors. Families gather, remember those who have died, eat, and visit grave sites. Half-moon of the seventh lunar month (Aug 24, 2010; Aug 14, 2011; Aug 31, 2012; and Aug 21, 2013).

National Day. Celebrates the rise of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam. Local parades, pomp, and circumstance. Sept 2.

Do Son Buffalo Fighting Festival. Near Haiphong. A riot for everyone (except the buffalos). The ninth day of the eighth lunar month (Sept 16, 2010; Sept 6, 2011; Sept 24, 2012; and Sept 13, 2013).

Mid-Autumn Festival. Nationwide. This colorful celebration is a popular one for kids, with dance and special sweet cakes. Half-moon of the eighth lunar month (Sept 22, 2010; Sept 12, 2011; Sept 30, 2012; and Sept 19, 2013).

December

Christmas. Nationwide, but most widely celebrated in the south, where Christian populations are largest. Although Vietnam's recent plunge into capitalism means more and more American-style Santa-focused decorations and shopping in the major cities, you can still expect some Ho Ho Ho Chi Minh style. Dec 25.

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

The Tet Holiday: "Over the Rice Field & Through the Jungle . . ."

Imagine an American Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Year's Eve, and Easter all rolled into one -- that's Tet. This megaholiday on the Vietnamese calendar is a time for pilgrimage to the family stamping grounds. Everyone, including the many young Vietnamese who have left the rice fields for work in the big cities, goes home (travel is a nightmare and best avoided). Food is the focus, and everyone hustles home to try Grandma's chung cakes -- a small square cake made of glutinous rice -- after a real feast of down-home cooking (regional variations are many). This is a time to honor ancestors; offerings of fruit and flowers, whole feasts even, are placed on family altars. The 23rd day of the 12th lunar month hosts a ceremony of farewell for last year's "Kitchen God." The 29th and 30th days are a time to say farewell to the old year and hello to the new, with all the fanfare and hoopla you can muster; streets are crowded with motorbikes, and the rice wine and bia hoi (local draft beer) flows freely. Folks go a-visiting on the first day of the lunar new year, sharing food and fellowship among neighbors. Tet is also a celebration of Vietnamese strength and autonomy. On the fifth day of the Tet holiday, people raise a glass (or two) to freedom fighter Quang Trung, who defeated the Chinese at Dong Da near Hanoi, and spurred them on with cries of, "And then we'll go home for some of Grandma's chung cakes!" Bonsai!

Tips on Dining

Dining in Vietnam is one of the highlights for visitors, and the secret is out, thanks to a proliferation of good, affordable, authentic Vietnamese restaurants springing up in the West. Characterized by the light, subtle nature of this cuisine, where ingredients are left alone to work their magic, Vietnamese gastronomy is getting the international kudos it well deserves. Take places like New York and Los Angeles, for example, where you can find an authentic bowl of pho (noodle soup) or fresh spring rolls, and where Vietnamese ingredients -- from rice paper and green papaya to rice whiskey and nuoc mam (pungent fish sauce) -- are influencing some of the finest Pacific fusion restaurants. Gourmets have discovered Vietnam, and many are making their own long-haul flights to experience the real deal.

The 1990s saw a resurgence of French-influenced cuisine after years of harsh restrictions on Western influence. A few staples like good baguettes and some French dishes survived the purges, but it took the cultural reopening of Vietnam under the Doi Moi policy to see a real resurgence of international cuisine and all kinds of creativity come into the better kitchens of the land.

Vietnam relies on wet rice cultivation -- and short-grained white rice is more than a staple; it defines the Vietnamese soul and is the backbone of the economy. Because of the nation's heavy population density, it seems like every piece of arable land is farmed, mostly for rice paddies as well as fruit orchards and vegetable farms. "South ships north" is the old adage about food production, as the Mekong Delta is the nation's breadbasket, providing most of the country's rice and much of its produce. The diversity of a chef's palate in tropical Vietnam -- with its many herbs, spices, and fruit that just falls from the trees -- makes for some great dining adventures. Below is a short primer in some of the basic dishes. Dine out with locals wherever possible. Even if you foot the bill for the whole table, the cost is still a pittance.

Typical Ingredients

Vietnamese cuisine relies heavily on fresh ingredients and the right mix of herbs and spices. Look for the following in any dish you experience in the country: Mang (bamboo shoots) are the tender young stalks of a thick bamboo that's usually sliced thin and served fresh, dried, boiled, or as pickles; bap chuoi (banana blossom) is a red flower bud used in salads or as garnish; la chuoi (banana leaves) are used to wrap small portable meals of cakes or meats; and kho qua (bitter gourd) is used as a garnish. Ot (red chilies) are a common ingredient and add a real zing to any Vietnamese dish.

Fresh fish is available anywhere in Vietnam -- you're never very far from the sea or a river -- and meat and poultry are locally farmed.

Herbs and fresh vegetables are used both in cooking and as condiments at the table. With most Vietnamese meals, you'll be offered a plate of rau que (raw basil), which comes in several varieties, as well as ngo (coriander) and lettuce. The use of lemon grass, mint, coriander, ginger, basil, and garlic creates light, fresh, and flavorful fare. Vietnamese foods are also part of the intricate system of Chinese medicine, and the many herbs and spices in Vietnamese cooking serve multiple purposes. Ginger and garlic are part of many remedies, and aromatic teas, roots, and herbal poultices come with doctor's orders.

Sadly, MSG (monosodium glutamate) is used widely in Vietnamese fare. In fact, the Agi No Moto ("More Taste") brand from Japan is offered on some local tables as a condiment. If you have a hard time processing MSG (that is, you get headaches, shortness of breath, or MSG "seasickness"), ask for food without it.

Nuoc mam is the famous -- or notorious -- Vietnamese fish sauce; its pungent flavor (and more pungent aroma) sets Vietnamese food apart. Nuoc mam is olive oil, soy sauce, and ketchup all rolled into one: the universal condiment of Vietnam. What is it? Simply put, it is fish that has been fermented in salt water, but the subtleties to nuoc mam production are as calculated as the making of fine wine or olive oil. Sadly, touring production facilities in places like the island of Phu Quoc to the far south and the town of Phan Thiet near Saigon is not as rewarding -- pretty stinky really -- as visiting a vineyard or an olive grove. The taste and smell of nuoc mam is overwhelming to the Western palate, but a true appreciation of Vietnamese food brings understanding of nuoc mam's importance. Did someone say "acquired taste"? Nuoc cham is the most popular tabletop alternative, and mixes the pungent standard nuoc mam with sugar, vinegar, and seasonings for a more pleasant introduction to this unique Vietnamese flavor -- you gotta try it once.

Dining & Etiquette

Vietnamese are very hospitable, and there's a good chance you'll be invited to eat with a local family or join a Vietnamese group at a restaurant -- you don't want to pass up the opportunity if it presents itself.

Etiquette is a rather casual affair -- meaning that there are few "no elbows on the table" kinds of restrictions -- but there are a few things to remember. The order of who is served, of who is given the choicest delicacies, and of who eats first is very important. When in doubt, wait. It's best to see that the eldest member of the group is served first and given the choicest fare -- a whole egg from the top of a hot pot, a shrimp, or piece of steak.

Meals are slow, friendly affairs surrounding a banquet, usually on the floor, with everyone sitting in a circle. Courses come out of the kitchen in succession, and don't expect to get away with just eating like a bird -- mom or grandma is sure to be a full-on food pusher and it's hard to say no (once a friendly host just kept filling small bowls and shoving them my way). Expect lots of comings and goings and lively discussion. Shared dishes are picked up with either chopsticks or forks -- both are okay -- and eaten in a small hand-size bowl. It's okay to sip or slurp from the bowl, and shovel the last bits of a meal using your chopsticks. Also note: It's okay -- customary even -- to wipe utensils before eating.

Patriotic Fare

As the old saying goes, "An army runs on its stomach," and Vietnamese are proud of what they endured for their autonomy; years of grinding poverty and crippling malnutrition was how most experienced the long war years. Viet Cong troops are said to have lived on a diet of one handful of rice and a handful of bullets each day, a fact that confounded U.S. attempts to cut off supplies (their enemy fought on with so little). Troops supplemented their diet with some jungle vegetation and the likes of Vietnamese tapioca, a tasteless sweet potato that you might have the chance to try when visiting the Cu Chi Tunnels outside of Saigon. At train stations, look for the dried rice cakes pressed with oil and peanuts; these were a portable, preserved dish for soldiers on the run that remain popular -- a source of pride and symbol of self-reliance, really. You might also have a chance to try ca muoi or ca dua, simple sour pickles that, for many years during and after the war, were the only flavor added to a spartan portion of rice each day. I visited a Vietnamese family, and they were sure I should taste this bitter staple to perhaps better know what life was like during Vietnam's long struggle. These dishes are still popular and a source of pride for Vietnamese fortitude.

The Tet holiday, or Lunar New Year, is the Vietnamese version of an American Thanksgiving, and dining at Tet is a lavish affair. Tet dishes include banh bhung, which is made of sticky rice, beans, and pork cooked in a banana leaf -- this portable dish was the fuel for early armies, particularly during the victory of Nguyen Hue over the Chinese at the battle of Dong Da, which took place during the Tet holiday. Tet fare, just like the Tet celebration, varies in different parts of the country, and you'll find all kinds of good dishes if you're lucky enough to be invited into a family's home at Tet time.

Popular Dishes

Authentic Vietnamese cuisine is best enjoyed alfresco at streetside, where food is cooked fresh and served, without any pomp and circumstance, on squat stools at a low table, often under an umbrella -- a great way to meet local people (folks will be amazed/excited/appalled that you're there) and pick up some language. The food does the talking in Vietnam, though. Below are a few of the kinds of dishes you can sample. Get adventurous. Go where locals go. Look for stalls that are packed, or storefront restaurants that have a line out the door, and walk in, smile, and point or just say, "One, please," holding up a finger. The entry fee is low, usually $1 or less per dish. Order up!

Pho -- This classic Vietnamese noodle soup has become a staple all over the world. Vietnamese -- and increasingly their Western visitors -- are almost fetishistic about their interest in the intricacies of its preparation. Pho bo (noodle soup) is a dish of wide rice noodles done in a beef broth; flavored with ginger, black pepper, lemon, and shallots; and topped with thin slices of roast beef and fresh greens like basil or coriander. Pho ga (noodle soup with chicken) is the same as pho bo, but with shredded chicken on top. Pho's simple formula keeps people searching the length of Vietnam looking for just the right combination. Everyone is loyal to a favorite stall, though, so ask for a recommendation. Locals eat pho any time -- for breakfast, lunch, or dinner, and as a midnight snack after a night on the town.

Com -- The very definition of "eating" is to an com, or "eat rice." Vietnam's staple plays a part in nearly every meal, whether as whole kernels or mashed and processed into rice paper, rice noodles, or fermented into rice wine. And Vietnamese com shops (the o in com is pronounced like the elongated ou in the word should) line every street. Com restaurants serve all manner of stir-fries or curries, often quite spicy in the south, along with a bowl of "Vietnamese bread." If you're out in the sticks a lot, you'll want to learn to say the likes of com trung, or "rice with egg" and com chien or "fried rice."

Bun -- Vietnamese bun (the u in bun is pronounced like a shortened oo in wood) is rice vermicelli, a fresh, light rice noodle with a slightly pungent aroma to it. Bun-style dishes are many, usually a mix of herbs and spices served with broth as a one-dish meal. Bun bo is rice vermicelli with shredded beef, usually in a fiery sauce. Bun rieu is a hearty stew of paddy crabs cooked in curry and shrimp paste and served with fresh rice vermicelli and greens. Avoid the various pig intestine varieties of bun dishes, the likes of bun moc or bun gio heo, and if you're eating at a local stall -- unless you're an aficionado -- ask the owner to go light on the nuoc mam.

Nem ran (called cha gio in the south) -- This is the classic fried Vietnamese spring roll, a delicious appetizer of ground meat or fish mixed with shrimp paste, mushrooms, spices, and some greens, folded into a thin rice wrapper and dipped into a sweet and sour sauce. It's an especially popular dish during the Tet holiday.

Banh xeo -- A thin pancake of rice flour folded with chicken or pork and topped with onions, sprouts, and greens, banh xeo is a popular treat in the south.

Banh cuon -- Banh cuon is a variant of the standard spring roll. Made with a thick rice wrap, like a heavy crepe cooked in fat, banh cuon are stuffed with chicken, beef, or shrimp (lots of varieties) and steamed. A Hanoi specialty.

Cha ca -- A classic Hanoi specialty that has found its way into restaurants along the length of Vietnam, cha ca is a delicious meal of delicate whitefish, fried at high heat in gobs of peanut oil with dill, turmeric, lemon shrimp paste, and a dash of rice whiskey. You prepare the dish yourself over a small brazier of coals that heat the frying pan. In a small rice bowl, diners each add a portion of the flash-fried fish to fresh bun (rice vermicelli) and fresh greens and peanuts. The best place to sample cha ca is at Hanoi's famed Cha Ca La Vong.

Nem nua -- These are my favorite: fresh spring rolls you make yourself, popular all over Vietnam and a great light, low-budget snack. You're given a plate of rice wraps, bowls of condiments like pickles and sour eggplant, and a dish of pork, shrimp, or vegetables (your choice); you're left to do the origami to put it all together. Vietnamese people get a real kick out of watching unpracticed Westerners fumble with this, and someone is always on hand to show you how to put it all together and dip it in the spicy sauce.

Daofu chien -- Here's a popular dish available just about everywhere -- a good one to learn by heart and order when you're out in the boonies. It's a basic dish of fried tofu with lemon grass, delicious with rice and a side of rau mouang xao chau, fried morning glory (a kind of stringy spinach) with oyster sauce.

Cha tom -- Popular in tourist restaurants, this sweet, savory dish appeals to the foreign palate. Cha tom is ground, seasoned shrimp grilled on a stick of cut sugar cane. It's a delicious appetizer.

Bo bay mon -- This is "beef served seven ways." A Saigon specialty, this succession of beef dishes includes fondue, fried, barbecued, and soup. It's a real treat.

Goi ngo sen -- A lotus root salad served with pomelo.

Ca hap -- Steamed fish served as you like.

For Vegetarians -- Just say "An chay" ("I eat vegetarian"), and you'll be met with approving nods, as vegetarian cooking is the province of tonsured Buddhist monks and, like anywhere, the health-conscious. Any dish can be altered for vegetarians, and good vegetable dishes like rau mouang xao chau (fried morning glory with oyster sauce) or the standard rau xau (mixed fried vegetables) are available anywhere. That said, strict veggies, the likes of vegans, will find themselves trying to convince chefs not to include fish sauce, eggs, and cheese, for example, which are considered permissible for monks and Vietnamese vegetarians.

Always look for regional specialties. Hue cuisine, for example, is famous for its light specialties, such as bun bo hue and good spring rolls. In Hoi An, try the Vietnamese raviolis, and in Hanoi the great pho, dog-meat dishes, and cha ca . Keep your eyes open for the fish sauce of Phan Thiet and Phu Quoc; duck dishes and spicy curries in Saigon; and many other regional favorites. Explore. Ask what's good. Make sure it's not guts or frogs, unless you want to try guts or frogs, and bon appétit!

Eew, What's That?!

Vietnam is home to some of the world's most exotic fare, with the likes of dog, snake, deer, jungle animals, and frogs gracing menus at the finer local restaurants, as well as any sea creature that moves -- one man's bait is another man's dinner.

Thit co (dog meat) -- a delicacy of the north -- is reputedly prepared by beating the animal with a rubber hose to tenderize its flesh before it's slaughtered. A meal of dog is usually eaten family style, almost exclusively by men to celebrate business deals (the meat is said to increase one's virility). Similarly, thit ran (snake meat) is a popular dish in Hanoi and is served in the Le Mat section north of Hanoi -- now a popular tourist night out.

In the mountain towns of the Central Highlands and far north, you'll find such delicacies as wild boar, venison, and goat. Chinese restaurants everywhere serve the likes of frog and eel.

One of Vietnam's rarest culinary oddities is cafe cut chon, a beverage made from average Vietnamese coffee beans that have passed through the most bizarre process. The beans of this coffee are served after being digested and passed -- I choke on that euphemism -- by a civet, something like a jungle fox (in reality, a relative of the mongoose). The taste? Earthy, they say, and strong. There are lots of shops in the Central Highlands towns that claim to have the real deal, but who knows if this fox poop is genuine?

Drinks

You can find tea, whiskey, beer, coffee, delicious shakes, and fruit juices -- hot or cold, sweet or mellowing -- anywhere in Vietnam.

Small cups of hot, bitter Chinese tea (called tra) are de rigueur for a first meeting, for a business situation, and for just killing time -- say, during check-in at a hotel. The cups just keep getting filled up, and this casual offering of Chinese tea is an important component of hospitality. Note: When pouring more, fill your host's cup first and your cup last.

Tea follows hundreds of years of Chinese tradition -- under Chinese tutelage -- in the provinces of Thai Nguyen and Lao Cai, for example, where estates date back centuries. Vietnam's plantations produce all varieties, standard black and green as well as fine jasmine tea, and fine teas are imported from China.

Tra da is iced tea, a standard pot of bitter Chinese tea poured over ice, usually unsweetened. Local restaurants serve tra da gratis from large pitchers. It's a great way to cool down on a hot day (although you should beware of drinking ice that's made from unfiltered water, especially if you have a sensitive stomach).

Local bia hoi, a cheap draft beer of watery lager made in every region, is served cold on tap in every town, usually in small storefronts crowded with squat stool tables and lots of revelers. You can expect a fun night of "Chuc mung!" ("Cheers!" or "Good luck!") all around.

Vietnamese whiskey, called ruou, comes in many varieties, and most of it could thin paint and is sure to cross your eyes in due time -- go easy with the stuff. I've had offers at dawn, and traveled with locals who knocked the stuff back all day long. Hospitality is one thing, but it's also okay to say, "No, thank you." Nep moi is the standard variety, and it's sold in stores throughout the country, as well as in most bia hoi bars and roadside restaurants. In the Central Highlands, don't miss an opportunity to slurp from a long reed straw from a massive pot of ruou can, a particularly potent local brew made by ethnic-minority groups.

The hills of Vietnam's Central Highlands, from Dalat all the way up to Kontum, look something like a Colombian landscape, with high, rolling hills as far as the eye can see sprouting coffee like a giant Chia pet -- you almost expect a grinning Juan Valdez to pop from behind a bush with a steaming cup any minute. Vietnam is the second-largest coffee grower in the world -- just behind Mr. Valdez's cohorts -- and though roasting techniques are primitive, choice Vietnamese Robusta coffee is delicious.

Small coffee joints can be found on every corner. Look for the Trung Nguyen brand, Vietnam's Starbucks of coffee. And because coffee is made with boiled water, it's okay to drink. Trung Nguyen stores might look like a chain, but franchising in Vietnam is limited to getting a free sign (you will see TRUNG NGUYEN everywhere) in exchange for buying and serving Trung Nguyen coffee, so individual outlets are all independent and distinct. Also look for the fine Highland Coffee outlets in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

Filter coffee is served in small cups with stainless-steel filters of coffee over the top. You pour your own hot water and wait for the slow filtration process -- part of the experience really, and a good lesson in patience (the Vietnamese even have a saying about the patience required to sit and watch a filter coffee drip).

Vietnamese coffee is usually served with sua, or very sweet condensed milk. Say "Ca phe sua chut-chut" if you want only a little of the saccharine sweet stuff (a bit too much for some), or order a "café den" for black coffee. Rarely will you find sua tuoi (fresh milk) -- only in the big cities -- but you'll always find duong (sugar) on the table. Ordering ice coffee at a local alfresco stand just means the same rig as above, accompanied by a glass of ice -- all very do-it-yourself -- just say "Ca phe sua da" and wait for the drip and pour it on ice.

Nuoc Khoang is Vietnamese for "drinking water," which is available in bottles everywhere. Just say "Cho toâi nuoc khoang" (pronounced Jya toy nook kwang). Even locals drink bottled water (tap water is never potable), and all ice or drinking water provided is usually boiled or filtered and is just fine. Kids love the popular nuoc mia, or sugar-cane juice. Also popular are cool drinks with lemon: Nuoc chanh is lemonade and soda chanh is a lemon soda. Ask for it with or without sugar (duong). This is the hip expat drink of choice.

Dessert

Che is a popular dessert dish of rice gelatin sweetened with Chinese litchi fruit and sugar. Kem (ice cream) is available everywhere, both Western-style ice cream (as taught by French colonists) and the local variety made with soy and coconut.

Sinh to is a delicious soy-based sweet shake made with the fruit of your choosing. Find little sinh to stands just about everywhere, popular at night market areas, and enjoy this sweet treat on the go, slurping it through a straw from a plastic bag. Shakes are made with sua, the same ultrasweet condensed milk that's popular in coffee. Ask for khong sua (no sua) or sua chut-chut (just a little).

Tropical Vietnam offers a wide variety of fruit, sometimes served with da ua (fresh yogurt). Find the likes of chuoi (banana), tao (apple), xoai (mango), du du (papaya), mang cut (mangosteen), nhan (longan, a sweet palm-size fruit), vu sua (the star apple or star fruit), dua hau (watermelon), buoi (grapefruit, which comes in many varieties), chom chom (rambutan, which is like a litchi with a spiky rind), dua (pineapple), and sau rieng (durian, the "smelly jackfruit" of renown), among others. Fresh fruit is affordable and available everywhere.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Seniors traveling in Vietnam might bask in the glow of filial piety and enjoy the Vietnamese idea -- from Confucianism -- of respect for elders, but senior travelers are less likely to enjoy the major discounts found in the West. But do mention the fact that you're a senior when you make your travel reservations. Although all of the major U.S. airlines except America West have canceled their senior discount and coupon book programs, many hotels still offer discounts for seniors.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (tel. 800/454-5768; www.elderhostel.org) arranges worldwide study programs for those aged 55 and over. ElderTreks (tel. 800/741-7956 or 416/558-5000 outside North America; www.eldertreks.com) offers small-group tours to off-the-beaten-path or adventure-travel locations, restricted to travelers 50 and older.

Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.com) and the best-selling paperback Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can't Get Unless You're Over 50 2009-2010, 18th Edition (McGraw-Hill), by Joan Rattner Heilman.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

As a relatively new vacation destination -- and a developing country, to boot -- Vietnam puts little pressure on the tourism industry to develop sustainable practices. There is virtually no backlash for hotels' and resorts' profligate energy usage. Meanwhile, the enthusiasm of international hotel chains and local developers has led to massive development of once-public, pristine beaches in Phan Thiet, Mui Ne, and Danang. The end result may well be ghettos of five-star resorts and golf courses guzzling large quantities of energy.

For individual travelers, cranking up the air-conditioning is a knee-jerk reaction when vacationing in Vietnam. Sure, there are some cool respites in the north and central parts of the country, but for the most part, your vacation is going to be a hot one. But bear in mind that it takes massive amounts of energy to keep hotel rooms and indoor areas cool. To make your Vietnam vacation a little bit greener, take the initiative and turn down the air-conditioning when staying at high-end hotels -- these places often keep rooms at a chilly 66°F (19°C).

A few notable outfits are also making conscious efforts to reduce their impact on the surrounding environs. The guys at Vietnam Vespa Adventure use biodiesel made from refined vegetable oil waste to run their multiday tours on vintage Vespa scooters. Over in Phnom Penh, the Quay bills itself as a "carbon-friendly" boutique hotel, buying carbon credits to offset the hotel's emissions.

Finally, when traveling to far-flung places, be mindful of local customs. Be very cautious about taking photographs among Vietnam's ethnic hilltribe minorities in the far north and Central Highlands. Ask first, respect an answer of "no" (true anywhere), and avoid photographing sacred shrines of hilltribe people.

General Resources for Green Travel

In addition to the resources for Vietnam listed above, the following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel. For a list of even more sustainable resources, as well as tips and explanations on how to travel greener, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

• Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

Tips for Travelers with Special Needs

Returning War Veterans

American (and Australian) veterans of the Vietnam War who have put off this trip for years think about the past with regret or remorse and imagine they might find harsh recrimination from Vietnamese people -- the same kind of harsh recrimination that many experienced when returning to their home country (which they thought they'd been fighting for). Instead, most veterans who return to Vietnam find healing. Many of the hundreds of thousands of U.S. soldiers who found themselves lost and confused on a steaming tarmac so far from home were no more than kids at the time, and many have carried baggage about the war for a lifetime. A trip to Vietnam, and an experience of Vietnamese hospitality, might just close the chapter.

Vietnamese people who lived through the war will certainly never forget it -- but what they endured, and the autonomy that they earned through those years of trial, is a source of pride -- and most folks you meet are eager to let go of the past. And though Vietnamese nationalism is at once worn proudly in public displays -- like big brass-band ceremonies on National Day and May Day -- on the personal level, you'll rarely find Vietnamese talking about the war with strutting bravado. Popular for U.S. veterans are humanitarian-aid tours, where groups bring resources and their own elbow grease back to the very rural people they wanted to help so many years ago. Veterans tours often include a meet-and-greet, through a translator, with North Vietnamese veterans, and these times of connection with the one-time enemy bring solace to many. Visiting old wartime posts or cities where they were billeted, veterans also speak of a connection with the rich Vietnamese language and culture on their second go-around.

Staying Connected

Cellphones

The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. In the U.S., T-Mobile, AT&T Wireless, and Cingular use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM, and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. GSM phones function with a removable plastic SIM card, encoded with your phone number and account information. If your cellphone is on a GSM system and you have a world-capable multiband phone such as many Sony Ericsson, Motorola, or Samsung models, you can make and receive calls across civilized areas around much of the globe. Just call your wireless operator and ask for "international roaming" to be activated on your account. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high -- usually $1 to $1.50 in western Europe and up to $5 in places like Russia and Indonesia.

The best way to get connected with your own hand-phone in Vietnam is to buy an affordable GSM phone and set up a simple prepaid account. Local calls are less than 10¢ per minute, and incoming calls are free.

Most cellphone operators in the West sell "locked" phones that restrict you from using any other removable computer memory phone chip card (called a SIM card) other than the ones they supply. Buy an unlocked phone that accepts a prepaid SIM card (found at a local retailer for as little as $40) that gives you a new account and phone number and can be exchanged for a new card in your next destination (like nearby Cambodia or Thailand). Buy new and reconditioned mobile phones at local department stores in the major cities or in any of the small storefront vendors popping up everywhere. When signing up for a local calling plan (for as little as $20, including a first batch of anytime minutes) you will get a local phone number and the staff can help you set it up (be sure to ask for help getting the phone set to "English," or tien Anh, if searching the LCD monitor yourself). In Vietnam, service providers include Vinaphone, with main offices at 1-3 Nguyen Van Binh in Ho Chi Minh (tel. 08/3823-9001), and cards are sold at retailers around the city. Mobiphone is a similar service and is best for good service in urban areas, but not as effective as Vinaphone out in the provinces. Retailers for these popular providers are just about anywhere, and at any post office in the country.

Note: Phone rental is unavailable in Vietnam; buying a phone and setting up a prepaid account is the way to go.

Internet & E-Mail

Without Your Own Computer -- Internet cafes are just about anywhere in Vietnam -- I've even been to an Internet cafe with a thatched roof in a rural hamlet. The quality of connections varies. In big cities like Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City, you can find fast, affordable ADSL service for as low as 4,000 VND per hour. The Internet is controlled by the government post office in any town, and most post offices now have adjoining cybercafes that are a good bet for fast, affordable service. In rural areas, it can get frustrating; the good ADSL line that starts at the post office gets split and spliced in its path to rural parts, creating patchy service or, if someone's been digging in the wrong place, unavailable service. The other drawback is that these places are often smoky and very crowded with screaming kids playing online shoot-'em-up games. Inquire at any hotel front desk to find an Internet cafe.

To find cybercafes in your destination, check www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com.

Most major airports have Internet kiosks that provide basic Web access for a per-minute fee that's usually higher than cybercafe prices.

With Your Own Computer -- Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity) is the buzzword in computer access, and many of the larger high-end hotels in Vietnam are signing on as wireless "hotspots" from where you can get high-speed connection without cable wires, networking hardware, or a phone line . You can get Wi-Fi connection one of several ways. Many laptops sold in the last few years have built-in Wi-Fi capability (an 802.11b wireless Ethernet connection). Mac owners have their own networking technology, called Apple AirPort. For those with older computers, an 802.11b/Wi-Fi card (around $50) can be plugged into your laptop. Many of Vietnam's wireless hotspots, in cafes or major hotels, are available for free. Prepaid plans are likely to follow.

Most business-class hotels in Vietnam offer dataports for laptop modems and increasingly offer high-speed Internet access using an Ethernet network cable or in-room Wi-Fi. You can bring your own cables, but most hotels will gladly loan them. A number of hotels in Vietnam offer free in-room Internet service.

Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable (some of the better city hotels can provide what you need). The current in Vietnam is 220V. Most laptops can plug directly into Vietnamese outlets, but bring a three-prong-to-two-prong adapter and a surge protector.