For dining along the Cua Lo strip, the best choice is Thuy Hang (tel. 038/395-1125), at the center of town across the road from the beach. It serves crab, shrimp, squid, and the whole fish as you like. It's the kind of place where you need a bib, but the beauty of it, like most seafood joints in Vietnam, is you can dig in and get your hands dirty, spit shells on the floor, and then wash your hands in the big bucket of water with lemon.
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