Planning a trip to Virginia

Getting Around

By Car

Traveling in your own vehicle is by far the best way to see Virginia. Interstate highways link all the major cities and many towns, but the prime advantage of driving is that you can explore on your own and drive our scenic routes.

Maximum speed limits are 65 mph on the Interstate highways, 55 mph on state highways, and 35 mph or less in towns and cities.

Accidents are common on both I-95 and I-81, which are heavy-duty truck routes, so be especially careful while driving on them. (So many trucks slow down as they creep side-by-side uphill and then race down the other side that I seldom get to use my cruise control on I-81!)

The Virginia Tourism Corporation distributes a detailed state road map as well as one that highlights the scenic drives.

The Virginia Department of Transportation (VDOT), 1401 E. Broad St., Richmond, VA 23219 (tel. 804/786-5731; www.virginiadot.org), publishes a free list of road construction projects, and it maintains a 24-hour-a-day Highway Helpline (tel. 800/367-7623) for information about road conditions and to report emergencies. It has live webcams of key northern Virginia and Hampton Roads highways and posts road condition maps online.

Dial your car radio to AM 610 or call tel. 800/792-2800 to check on conditions in Hampton Roads' often-congested tunnels.

Dial tel. #77 on your cellphone to report an accident or other emergency to the state highway patrol.

All major rental car companies have agencies at the state's airports. Enterprise (www.enterprise.com) also is present in many small towns.

Visitors from abroad who plan to rent a car in the United States should keep in mind that insurance and taxes are almost never included in quoted rental car rates in the U.S. Be sure to ask your rental agency about additional fees for these. They can add a significant cost to your car rental.

Foreign driver's licenses are usually recognized in the U.S., but you may want to consider obtaining an international driver's license, especially if your home license is not written in English.

Get Out of Your Vehicle & Look Around -- I don't have enough room in this guide to cover all of Virginia's picturesque hamlets, villages, and towns. Don't hesitate to park your vehicle and have a look around when a charmer catches your attention. My fellow Virginians will ensure that you are richly rewarded.

Driving the Civil War Trails -- One benefit of touring by car is that you can follow the state's Civil War Trails. These sign-posted driving tours follow the Shenandoah battles, the Peninsula campaign of 1862, the battles from Manassas to Fredericksburg, Lee versus Grant as the Union drove south to Richmond in 1864, and Lee's retreat from Petersburg to Appomattox in 1865. Check outwww.civilwartrails.org.

By Plane

You can get around Virginia by flying from one of its airports to another, but you are likely to change planes along the way. For example, you may have to fly through Washington Dulles International Airport, Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport, or Charlotte, North Carolina, to get from Roanoke to Richmond. As a result, flying around the state can be more time-consuming than driving, and more expensive, too. Check with the airlines or your travel agent for the most efficient, cost-effective routing.

Some large airlines offer transatlantic or transpacific passengers special discount tickets under the name Visit USA, which allows mostly one-way travel from one U.S. destination to another at very low prices. Unavailable in the U.S., these discount tickets must be purchased abroad in conjunction with your international fare. This system is the easiest, fastest, cheapest way to see the country.

By Train

Amtrak trains (tel. 800/872-7245; www.amtrak.com) are better for getting to and from Virginia than for getting around the state. All Amtrak trains between New York and Florida stop at Washington, D.C., and Richmond; some stop at Alexandria and Fredericksburg. Another train follows this route from New York to Richmond, and then heads east to Newport News via Williamsburg. From Newport News, Amtrak's Thruway bus service connects to Norfolk and Virginia Beach. Some east- and westbound trains to and from D.C. stop at Charlottesville, Staunton, and Clifton Forge. From Clifton Forge, a Thruway bus connects to Roanoke.

By Bus

Greyhound (tel. 800/231-2222; www.greyhound.com) is the sole nationwide bus line. While you can travel from one major Virginia city to another by bus, service is not available to many small towns, and that includes all of them in the Shenandoah Valley. Taking the bus may be the least expensive way to travel around Virginia, but it also is the least convenient and the least comfortable.

International visitors who insist on traveling by bus can obtain information about the Greyhound North American Discovery Pass. The pass, which offers unlimited travel and stopovers in the U.S. and Canada, can be obtained from foreign travel agents or through www.discoverypass.com.

Escorted & Package Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

Several travel companies offer escorted bus tours of historic sites in both Virginia and southeastern Pennsylvania. These 1-week or longer tours usually start in Washington, D.C, and visit Mount Vernon, Fredericksburg, Williamsburg, Richmond, Charlottesville, and the Shenandoah National Park. From there they go on to Gettysburg and the Amish Country in Pennsylvania before ending in Philadelphia. You'll have to pay extra to get to Washington, D.C., and home from Philadelphia, but meals, lodging, and bus transportation are included in the tour prices.

Check out Trafalgar Tours (tel. 866/544-4434; www.trafalgartours.com), Tauck Tours (tel. 800/788-7855; www.tauck.com), and Mayflower Tours (tel. 800/323-7604; www.mayflowertours.com) to find out what they're offering when you plan to travel.

Despite the fact that escorted tours require big deposits and predetermine hotels, restaurants, and itineraries, many people derive security and peace of mind from the structure they offer. Escorted tours let you sit back and enjoy the trip without having to drive or worry about details. They take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle. They're particularly convenient for people with limited mobility and they can be a great way to make new friends.

On the downside, you'll have little opportunity for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jampacked with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure. And they focus on the most touristy sites, so you miss out on many a lesser-known gem.

For more information on escorted general-interest tours, including questions to ask before booking your trip, see www.frommers.com/planning.

1-Day Bus Tours -- During the warm months you can also make 1-day escorted bus tours from Washington, D.C., to Charlottesville with the venerable Gray Line (tel. 800/862-1400 or 301/386-8300; fax 301/386-2024; www.graylinedc.com). The trip costs $90 for adults, $60 for children 3 to 11, including admission to Thomas Jefferson's Monticello home. The company occasionally offers 1-day excursions from D.C. to Williamsburg.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Virtually every traveler (including U.S. citizens) entering the U.S. -- by air, land, or sea -- is required to present a valid passport.

For information and to obtain a passport, please contact the following agencies:

For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland -- Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh).

For Residents of New Zealand -- Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, or a U.S. post office which accepts applications, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

For up-to-date information about U.S. visas, go to www.travel.state.gov/visa.

The U.S. State Department has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the following countries to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. Citizens of Czech Republic, Estonia, Hungary, Latvia, Lithuania, Malta, Republic of Korea, and Slovakia are soon to be admitted to the VWP. (Note: This list was accurate at press time; consult www.travel.state.gov/visa for the most up-to-date list of countries in the VWP.)

Even though a visa isn't necessary, in an effort to help U.S. officials check travelers against terror watch lists before they arrive at U.S. borders, visitors from VWP countries must register online through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) before boarding a plane or a boat to the U.S. Travelers will complete an electronic application providing basic personal and travel eligibility information. The Department of Homeland Security recommends filling out the form at least 3 days before traveling. Authorizations will be valid for up to 2 years or until the traveler's passport expires, whichever comes first. Currently, there is no fee for the online application.

Note: Any passport issued on or after October 26, 2006, by a VWP country must be an e-Passport for VWP travelers to be eligible to enter the U.S. without a visa. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder. If your passport doesn't have this feature, you can still travel without a visa if it is a valid passport issued before October 26, 2005, and includes a machine-readable zone, or between October 26, 2005, and October 25, 2006, and includes a digital photograph.

For more information, go to http://travel.state.gov/visa. Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas; they will need to show passports and proof of residence, however.

Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the U.S., and (2) a tourist visa.

Customs

What You Can Bring into the U.S. -- Every visitor 21 years of age or older may bring in, free of duty, the following: (1) 1 liter of wine or hard liquor; (2) 200 cigarettes, 100 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and (3) $100 worth of gifts. These exemptions are offered to travelers who spend at least 72 hours in the United States and who have not claimed them within the preceding 6 months. It is forbidden to bring into the country almost any meat products (including canned, fresh, and dried meat products such as buillion, soup mixes, and so forth). Generally, condiments, including vinegars, oils, and spices; coffee; tea; and some cheeses and baked goods are permitted. Avoid rice products, as rice can often harbor insects. Bringing fruits and vegetables is not advised, though not prohibited. Customs will allow produce depending on where you got it and where you're going after you arrive in the U.S. International visitors may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs on entering or leaving, which includes filing form CM 4790. For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs (www.customs.gov).

What You Can Take Home from the United States -- For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

While Virginia has always been a pro-business state, and residential and commercial developments are eating into our green spaces, the state and the federal governments also have protected many thousands of acres of land in its natural condition. The Shenandoah National Park gets most of the ink, but it is dwarfed by our state parks and national forests.

But the conservation war is not won. As I write, some of our residents, including Oscar-winning actor Robert Duvall, are fighting plans to build a 138,000-square-foot Walmart store on the edge of The Wilderness Civil War Battlefield near Fredericksburg. "I believe in capitalism," Duvall said, "but I believe in capitalism with sensitivity."

Take Nothing, Leave Nothing -- When visiting our natural areas, we should all observe the golden rule of the wilderness: Leave nothing behind, and take away only memories and photos.

Virginia Green

The Virginia Tourism Corporation and the state Department of Environmental Quality also are active. Together they have created Virginia Green, a program to promote sustainable tourism (www.virginia.org/green).

More than 300 hotels, motels, bed-and-breakfasts, inns, cabins, and other lodging have been certified as Virginia Green to acknowledge their efforts in conserving water and energy, recycling their waste, reducing or eliminating the use of Styrofoam, getting us to use our linen more than once before sending it to the laundry, and sponsoring events to promote a green environment.

The Department of Environmental Quality publishes a list on its website (www.deq.virginia.gov/p2/virginiagreen/lodging_participants.html). When making your plans, look for the Virginia Green logo on the approved establishments' own websites.

What We Can Do

It's up to us travelers to practice sustainable tourism, which means being careful with the environments we explore, and respecting the communities we visit, including Virginia.

Two overlapping components of sustainable travel are ecotourism and ethical tourism. The International Ecotourism Society (TIES; www.ecotourism.org) defines ecotourism as responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people. TIES suggests that ecotourists follow these principles:

• Minimize environmental impact.
• Build environmental and cultural awareness and respect.
• Provide positive experiences for both visitors and hosts.
• Provide direct financial benefits for conservation and for local people.
• Raise sensitivity to host countries' political, environmental, and social climates.
• Support international human rights and labor agreements.

Getting There

By Plane

Most major domestic and international airlines service the two airports in the metropolitan Washington, D.C., area .

The major international gateway to Virginia is Washington Dulles International Airport (IAD; tel. 703/661-2700; www.mwaa.com), about 25 miles west of Washington, D.C. Dulles is also a regional hub for domestic flights, and fares can be less to fly in and out of here than other airports in Virginia.

Also serving northern Virginia is Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport (DCA; tel. 703/685-8000; www.mwaa.com), on the Potomac River 2 miles north of Alexandria.

• Charlottesville-Albemarle Airport (CHO; tel. 804/973-8341; www.gocho.com).
• Newport News-Williamsburg International Airport (PHF; tel. 757/877-0221; www.nnwairport.com).
• Norfolk International Airport (ORF; tel. 757/857-3351; www.norfolkairport.com).
• Richmond International Airport (RIC; tel. 804/226-3000; www.flyrichmond.com).
• Roanoke Regional Airport (ROA; tel. 540/362-1999; www.roanokeregionalairport.com).
• Shenandoah Valley Regional Airport (SHD; tel. 540/234-8304; www.flyshd.com).

Many flights to these regional airports are of the "commuter" variety, and you likely will pay higher fares to fly into them than into Washington Dulles.

By Car

Interstate highway I-95 runs north-south through Virginia between Alexandria and Emporia. From western Maryland and eastern Tennessee, the major highway is I-81, which runs north-south the entire length of the state through the Shenandoah Valley and Southwest Highlands.

Major western entrance points are from West Virginia via I-77 and I-64. The latter runs east-west across the state between Covington and Norfolk. In northern Virginia, I-66 traverses the state east-west between Arlington and I-81 at Strasburg. I-66 can slow to a snail's pace during rush hours in northern Virginia.

By Train

Amtrak (tel. 800/872-7245; www.amtrak.com) has train service to Alexandria, Fredericksburg, Richmond, Williamsburg, Newport News, Charlottesville, Staunton, and Clifton Forge. Amtrak's Thruway bus service connects Newport News to Norfolk, and Clifton Forge to Roanoke.

The high-speed Acela, Metroliner service, and other northeast corridor trains connect New York to Union Station in Washington, D.C., where riders can board the Metrorail subway to Alexandria.

International visitors can buy a USA Rail Pass, good for 5, 15, or 30 days of unlimited travel on Amtrak. The pass is available online or through many overseas travel agents. See Amtrak's website for the cost of travel within the western, eastern, or northwestern United States. Reservations are generally required and should be made as early as possible. Regional rail passes are also available.

Tips on Accommodations

Virginia has a vast array of accommodations, from rock-bottom roadside motels to some of the nation's finest resorts. Every national chain is present here in all price categories. So whether you spend a pittance or a bundle depends on your budget and tastes. You can enjoy "champagne tastes on a beer budget" -- if you plan carefully and possess a little knowledge of how the hotel industry works.

The Virginia Tourism Corporation publishes a directory of all the state's accommodations.

Bed & Breakfasts

Unfortunately I have room in these pages to mention only a few standouts among Virginia's 200-plus bed-and-breakfasts. Most of them are excellent properties adorned with antiques or quality reproductions, luxurious touches like fresh flowers and top-drawer linens and toiletries, and near-gourmet breakfasts. Some even add whirlpool tubs to their bathrooms. All these niceties come with a price, so most bed-and-breakfasts aren't inexpensive. Nor are they for everyone, since you'll be sharing a home with strangers -- with whom you might have to make small talk over breakfast. On the other hand, you don't have to go out for breakfast, and the hosts are usually fonts of current local information. In fact, B&B owners told me about many of the restaurants I recommend in these pages.

With a few exceptions, I only recommend properties which are members of the Bed & Breakfast Association of Virginia (BBAV), P.O. Box 1077, Standardsville, VA 22973 (tel. 888/660-2228 or 540/672-6700; www.innvirginia.com). The BBAV inspects and approves the establishments it promotes, so you are unlikely to stay in a dump. Membership also indicates that the owners are serious about their business and are not operating a B-&-B merely to take advantage of tax breaks. BBAV publishes an annual directory of its members and lists them on its website.

Regional associations with useful websites include the following:

• Alexandria & Arlington Bed & Breakfast Network, P.O. Box 25319, Arlington, VA 22202 (tel. 888/549-3415 or 703/549-3415; www.aabbn.com)
• The Hunt Country's Loudoun County Bed & Breakfast Guild (tel. 866/771-2597; www.loudounbandb.com)
• Charlottesville's Guesthouses Reservation Service, Inc. (tel. 434/979-7264; www.va-guesthouses.com)
• Bed and Breakfasts of the Historic Shenandoah Valley (no phone; www.bbhsv.org)
• Williamsburg Bed & Breakfast Network (no phone; www.bandbwilliamsburg.com)

Most local visitor centers include bed-and-breakfasts on their websites or will send you a list of those in their area.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling. There are more options and resources out there than ever before. This is especially true in Virginia, where most establishments are required to comply with the federal Americans with Disabilities Act. That means they have ramps for wheelchairs and at least one room equipped for travelers with disabilities.

The America the Beautiful -- National Park and Federal Recreational Lands Pass -- Access Pass (formerly the Golden Access Passport) gives visually impaired or persons with permanent disabilities (regardless of age) free lifetime entrance to federal recreation sites administered by the National Park Service, the Fish and Wildlife Service, the Forest Service, the Bureau of Land Management, and the Bureau of Reclamation. This includes national parks, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, and national wildlife refuges.

The America the Beautiful Access Pass can be obtained only in person at any NPS facility that charges an entrance fee. You need to show proof of medically determined disability. Besides free entry, the pass also offers a 50% discount on some federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. For more information, go to www.nps.gov/fees_passes.htm or call tel. 888/467-2757.

Organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS [225-5667]; www.mossresourcenet.org); the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org); and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). AirAmbulanceCard.com is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) offers a comprehensive database on travel agents from around the world with experience in accessible travel; destination-specific access information; and links to such resources as service animals, equipment rentals, and access guides.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel. Avis Rent a Car (tel. 888/879-4273; www.avis.com) has an "Avis Access" program that offers services for customers with special travel needs. These include specially outfitted vehicles with swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls; mobility scooter rentals; and accessible bus service. Be sure to reserve well in advance.

British travelers should contact Holiday Care (tel. 0845-124-9971 in the U.K. only; www.holidaycare.org.uk) to access a wide range of travel information and resources for elderly people and those with disabilities.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Mention the fact that you're a senior when you make your reservations. All major airlines, car-rental firms, and most Virginia hotels offer discounts for seniors, especially members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 800/424-3410 or 202/434-2277; www.aarp.org). AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

A committee of deranged bureaucrats must have come up with the tongue-tying name of the America the Beautiful -- National Park and Federal Recreational Lands Pass -- Senior, which is also known as the America the Beautiful Senior Pass, or among bureaucrats as the Interagency Senior Pass. Like the National Park Service's former Golden Age Passport, which is still honored, it gives anyone 62 years or older -- and passengers in their noncommercial vehicles -- entrance to national parks, monuments, and historic sites, plus national recreation areas and wildlife refuges managed by the U.S. Agriculture Department. The senior pass costs a one-time fee of $10, lasts for a lifetime, and must be purchased in person at any national park, recreation area, or wildlife refuge that charges an entrance fee (there are several of them in Virginia, so it can result in big savings). Besides free entry, it also offers a 50% discount on some federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours -- but not on fees charged by concessionaires. For more information, go to www.nps.gov/fees_passes.htm or call tel. 888/467-2757.

Tips for Travelers with Pets

The Virginia Tourism Corporation website (www.virginia.org) provides information about pet-friendly events around the state and hotels and motels that accept pets. Policies vary from hotel to hotel, so call ahead to find out the rules. Many pet-friendly hotels charge an additional fee to guests who bring along their furry friends. Most B&Bs do not accept pets, but some of their owners have them, so ask before booking if you're allergic to animals.

Pets are allowed on short leashes in Virginia state parks but restricted in national parks (there are a few trails in Shenandoah National Park on which you can walk Fido). Check with each park's ranger station before setting out.

Money

Frommer's lists prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic or www.xe.com to check up-to-the-minute rates.

As you might expect, Virginia is most expensive in its larger cities and in the Washington, D.C., suburbs of northern Virginia. It's also hard to find bargains at the beach in the summer or in the Shenandoah during the October "leaf season." Even so, the state is not a particularly expensive destination, and is much less costly than London, New York, and other major metropolitan areas. While there are plenty of high-end restaurants, luxury hotels, and bed-and-breakfasts, smaller independent hotels and motels abound, as well as multitudinous representatives of all the major budget chains. It's possible to eat and stay well in Virginia without spending a fortune, and should you decide to splurge, you can find a lot of luxury for your money.

However much you plan to spend, it's always advisable to bring money in a variety of forms on a vacation: a mix of cash, credit cards, and traveler's checks. You should also exchange enough petty cash to cover airport incidentals, tipping, and transportation to your hotel before you leave home, or withdraw money upon arrival at an airport ATM.

ATMs

The easiest and best way to get cash away from home while in Virginia is from an ATM (automated teller machine), sometimes referred to as a "cash machine" or "cashpoint." The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the country; you can find them even in remote regions. Go to your bank card's website to find ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your daily withdrawal limit before you depart.

Don't forget your personal identification number (PIN) since all ATMs in Virginia require them to withdraw cash. American cards use 4-digit PINs, so check with your bank before leaving home if yours is longer.

Note: Many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee is often higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $2). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. To compare banks' ATM fees within the U.S., use www.bankrate.com. Visitors from outside the U.S. should also find out whether their bank assesses a 1% to 3% fee on charges incurred abroad.

Credit Cards & Debit Cards

Credit cards are the most widely used form of payment in the United States: The most commonly accepted are Visa (Barclaycard in Britain), MasterCard (EuroCard in Europe), American Express, Diners Club, and Discover. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, but high fees make these advances a pricey way to get cash.

If your credit or debit cards disappear and you cannot remember the number to call, www.cancelthatcard.com gives phone numbers to report lost or stolen cards.

I highly recommended that you travel with at least one major credit card. You must have a credit card to rent a car, and hotels and airlines usually require a credit card imprint as a deposit against expenses.

ATM cards with major credit card backing, known as debit cards, are now a commonly acceptable form of payment at most businesses. Debit cards draw money directly from your checking account. Some stores and most U.S. post offices enable you to receive cash back on your debit card purchases as well.

Dear Visa: I'm Off to Richmond! -- Some credit card companies recommend that you notify them of an impending trip or they may become suspicious when the card is used numerous times in a destination that's not your home and block your charges. If you don't call your credit card company in advance, you should carry the card's toll-free emergency number with you, so that you can get in touch if a charge is refused. But perhaps the most important lesson here is to carry more than one card on your trip; a card might not work for any number of reasons, so having a backup is actually quite important.

Traveler's Checks

Though credit cards and debit cards are more often used, traveler's checks are still widely accepted in the U.S. Foreign visitors should make sure that traveler's checks are in U.S. dollars; foreign-currency checks are difficult to exchange.

You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. Most are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233 or 800/221-7282 for cardholders -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee) and Visa (tel. 800/732-1322; AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee for checks up to $1,500 at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378). Call tel. 800/223-9920 for information on MasterCard traveler's checks.

Be sure to keep a copy of the traveler's checks serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Staying Connected

Telephones

Generally, hotel surcharges on long-distance and local calls are astronomical, so you're better off using your cellphone or a public pay telephone. (One hotelier told me recently that he isn't making any profit on phone calls because most guests now use their own cellphones instead of making calls from their rooms.)

If you don't have a cellphone, you can buy prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50 at many convenience groceries and packaging services. For international visitors these can be the least expensive way to call home. Many public pay phones at airports and elsewhere now accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa credit cards. However you pay, local calls made from pay phones in Virginia cost 35¢ (no pennies, please).

Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. For calls within the United States and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free. However, calls to area codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, "dating" services, and so on) can be very expensive -- usually a charge of 95¢ to $3 or more per minute, and they sometimes have minimum charges that can run as high as $15 or more.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0 and then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person to person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For local directory assistance ("information"), dial 411; for long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code and 555-1212.

Cellphones

Just because your cellphone works at home doesn't mean it'll work everywhere in Virginia, thanks to our nation's fragmented cellphone system. One of my cellphones using GSM (Global System for Mobiles), which is used by much of the rest of the world, can go dead out in the country, while my CDMA (Code Division Multiple Access) model works perfectly well. It's a good bet that your phone will work in major cities whatever system it uses, and you will have near-statewide coverage with Verizon Wireless, which uses CDMA. On the other hand, AT&T, T-Mobile, and Sprint can be weak or disappear altogether in rural areas. Take a look at your wireless company's coverage map on its website before heading out.

If you need to stay in touch at a destination where you know your phone won't work, rent a phone that does from InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal.com) or a rental car location, but beware that you'll pay $1 a minute or more for airtime.

I find it less expensive to buy a prepaid "throwaway" cellphone, such as from Tracfone (www.tracfone.com) or its subsidiary Net10 (www.net10.com). You can order from the websites in advance, or pick up a Tracfone and a prepaid card at national drugstore chains such as CVS and Rite Aid, or at the ubiquitous Dollar General outlets (rare is the Virginia town that doesn't have a cheapo Dollar General). Walmart, Target, Kmart, and Safeway are Tracfone and Net10 retailers.

Tracfone models cost as little as $10, with prepaid cards beginning at $20 for 60 minutes of nationwide airtime good for 60 days. Net10 phones start at $30 and include 300 minutes of nationwide airtime good for 60 days. Neither charges extra for domestic long distance.

Internet/E-Mail

Without Your Own Computer -- Most public libraries in Virginia offer Internet access free or for a small charge. Hotel business centers have access, too, but often charge exorbitant rates.

To find cybercafes in your destination, check www.cybercafe.com. Most major airports have Internet kiosks that provide basic Web access for a per-minute fee that's usually higher than cybercafe prices. Check out copy shops like FedEx Office (formerly, FedEx Kinko's), which offers computer stations with fully loaded software (as well as Wi-Fi).

With Your Own Computer -- I've been writing Frommer's guides so long that I remember when hotels competed by equipping their rooms with hair dryers and coffeemakers, which are pretty much de rigueur today. Now they try to one-up each other by providing high-speed Internet access for their guests' laptops. In fact, most hotels and motels in Virginia, regardless of price, offer wireless (Wi-Fi, for wireless fidelity), and some also have high-speed dataport connections for laptops, the latter using an Ethernet network cable. The service is complimentary at most hotels and bed-and-breakfasts, but others -- especially large chains such as Marriott and Hilton -- charge about $10 a night.

Many airports, cafes, and especially coffee shops are Wi-Fi hotspots, offering free or low-cost high-speed access. Wi-Fi is even found in some campgrounds, RV parks, and entire neighborhoods, such as King Street in Old Town Alexandria. To find public Wi-Fi hotspots, go to www.jiwire.com; its Wi-Fi Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hotspots.

Most laptops sold today have built-in wireless capability, but wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Voice-over Internet Protocol (VOIP)

If you have Web access while traveling, you might consider a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, Voice-over Internet Protocol, or VoIP) such as Skype (www.skype.com) or Vonage (www.vonage.com), which allows you to make free international calls if you use their services from your laptop or in a cybercafe, and the people you're calling also use the service. Skype also has a "Skype Out" service which lets you make calls from your computer to landlines for a small per-minute fee (depending on which country you are calling). Calling cellphones is more expensive. Check the sites for details.

Health & Insurance

Malaria may have been a curse of the colonists who settled Virginia in the 17th century, but today the state poses no unusual health threats.

Although Virginia mosquitoes don't carry malaria, they are still rampant in the Tidewater during summer, especially in the marshes around Chincoteague, Assateague, and Tangier islands, so use plenty of insect repellent on the Eastern Shore.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home -- Hospitals and emergency care facilities are widespread in Virginia, so unless you're deep in the backcountry, help will be close at hand.

In case of illness, consider asking your hotel concierge or staff to recommend a local doctor -- even his or her own. Most Virginia cities and towns have hospitals, and you can try their emergency rooms for assistance. Many have walk-in clinics for cases that are not life threatening. You may not get immediate attention, but you won't pay the high price of an emergency room visit (usually a minimum of $300 just for signing your name).

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security. Visitors from outside the U.S. should carry generic names of prescription drugs.

For U.S. travelers, most reliable healthcare plans provide coverage if you get sick away from home. Foreign visitors may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later. Accordingly, you may want to buy travel insurance.

Safety

Most areas of Virginia are relatively free of street crime, but this is not the case in some parts of Alexandria, Richmond, Norfolk, Roanoke, and other cities. Ask your hotel staff or the local visitor information office whether neighborhoods you intend to visit are safe. Avoid deserted streets and alleys, and always be especially alert at night. Never leave anything of value visible in your parked car; it's an invitation to theft.

When heading outdoors, keep in mind that injuries often occur when people fail to follow instructions. Believe the experts who tell you to stay on the established trails. Hike in designated areas, follow the marine charts if piloting your own boat, carry rain gear, and wear a life jacket when canoeing or rafting. Watch for summer thunderstorms that can leave you drenched, send bolts of lightning your way, and suddenly flood otherwise peaceful streams. Mountain weather can be fickle any season.

Tips for Student Travelers

It's worthwhile to bring along your valid high school or college ID, since many museums and other Virginia attractions have discounted admissions for students.

Check out its website of the International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC; www.istc.org) for comprehensive travel services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months.

Alcoholic beverages cannot be sold in the United States to anyone who is under 21, so if you're eligible and intend to imbibe, bring your driver's license or another photo identification with your date of birth.

Tips for Families

Virginia will bring history to life for your kids (and you, too) with a myriad of associations involving America's first heroes -- Washington, Jefferson, Madison, Monroe, and Patrick Henry among them. Walking through old houses can bring on a case of the fidgets, but children are likely to be entertained by the living history demonstrations at Jamestown Settlement, Yorktown Victory Center, and the Frontier Culture Museum at Staunton.

Theme parks offer thrills and chills, not to mention food, fun, and entertainment, at Kings Dominion, Busch Gardens Williamsburg, and Water Country USA.

Virginia's family favorite is the Virginia Aquarium & Marine Science Center in Virginia Beach, where computers, exhibits, touch-tanks, and the museum's waterside setting help people of all ages understand the marine environment. Nearby in Norfolk, the NAUTICUS has interactive and "virtual adventures" featuring make-believe U.S. Navy ships. Across the harbor in Hampton, kids can see spaceships and watch IMAX movies at the Virginia Air & Space Center. They also will get a kick out of the Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center in the Hunt Country of northern Virginia, where the National Air and Space Museum displays 200 planes, 135 spacecraft, and the spaceship model that starred in Close Encounters of the Third Kind.

Roanoke's Virginia Museum of Transportation, with its playground full of railroad cars, will keep the young and young-at-heart occupied. Richmond's Children's Museum and the Science Museum of Virginia offer activities and "touch me" exhibits.

It's not a museum, but after reading the story of Misty of Chincoteague, kids will adore a chance to ride a pony and see the action themselves at the wild ponies' swim across Assateague Channel.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- Virginia has several area codes. The 703 and 571 codes are both in northern Virginia and the eastern Hunt Country, where you must dial both the area code and local number even when calling locally. The 540 code runs from Fredericksburg west to Winchester and south to Roanoke. The 804 code is in Richmond, Petersburg, and the Northern Neck. The 757 code covers Williamsburg, Hampton Roads, and the Eastern Shore. The 434 code is in Charlottesville. And the 276 code is in the Southwest Highlands.

Automobile Organizations -- Motor clubs will supply maps, suggested routes, guidebooks, accident and bail-bond insurance, and emergency road service. The American Automobile Association (AAA) is the major auto club in the United States. If you belong to a motor club in your home country, inquire about AAA reciprocity before you leave. You may be able to join AAA even if you're not a member of a reciprocal club; to inquire, call AAA (tel. 800/222-4357; www.aaa.com). AAA has a nationwide emergency road service telephone number (tel. 800/AAA-HELP [222-4357]).

Business Hours -- Offices are usually open weekdays 9am to 5pm. Banks are open weekdays 9am to 3pm or later and sometimes Saturday mornings. Stores typically open between 9 and 10am and close between 5 and 6pm Monday through Saturday. Stores in shopping complexes or malls tend to stay open late on these days -- until about 9pm -- and many malls and larger department stores are open until 6pm on Sundays.

Drinking Laws -- The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 21; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it's always a good idea to bring ID when you go out. In Virginia, many grocery and convenience stores sell beer and wine, but only state-licensed Alcoholic Beverage Control (ABC) stores are permitted to sell bottles of hard liquor. Any licensed establishment (restaurant or bar) can sell drinks by the glass. Bars must close by 2am. Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn't zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot. And nothing will ruin your trip faster than getting a citation for DUI ("driving under the influence"), so don't even think about driving while intoxicated.

Electricity -- Like Canada, the United States uses 110 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220 to 240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you.

Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies are located in the nation's capital, Washington, D.C. Some consulates are located in major U.S. cities, and most nations have a mission to the United Nations in New York City. If your country isn't listed below, call for directory information in Washington, D.C. (tel. 202/555-1212) or check www.embassy.org/embassies.

The embassy of Australia is at 1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036 (tel. 202/797-3000; usa.embassy.gov/au).

The embassy of Canada is at 501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001 (tel. 202/682-1740; www.canadianembassy.org). Other Canadian consulates are in Buffalo, Detroit, Los Angeles, New York City, and Seattle.

The embassy of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/462-3939; www.irelandemb.org). Irish consulates are in Boston, Chicago, New York City, San Francisco, and other cities. See website for complete listing.

The embassy of New Zealand is at 37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/328-4800; www.nzembassy.com). New Zealand consulates are in Los Angeles, Salt Lake City, San Francisco, and Seattle.

The embassy of the United Kingdom is at 3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/588-7800; www.britainusa.com). Other British consulates are in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Cleveland, Houston, Los Angeles, New York City, San Francisco, and Seattle.

Emergencies -- Call tel. 911 to report a fire, call the police, or get an ambulance anywhere in the United States. This is a toll-free call (no coins are required at public telephones). Dial tel. #77 on your cellphone to reach the state highway patrol.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- Petrol is known as gasoline (or simply "gas"), and petrol stations are known as both gas stations and service stations. Like elsewhere in the world, gasoline prices have fluctuated widely in the past few years. It is around $2.50 a gallon in Virginia as I write. Whatever the price here, it still costs about half as much in the U.S. as it does in Europe. Taxes are already included in the printed price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons. All but a few stations have self-service gas pumps.

Holidays -- Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year's Day), the third Monday in January (Martin Luther King, Jr., Day), the third Monday in February (Presidents' Day), the last Monday in May (Memorial Day), July 4 (Independence Day), the first Monday in September (Labor Day), the second Monday in October (Columbus Day), November 11 (Veterans' Day/Armistice Day), the fourth Thursday in November (Thanksgiving Day), and December 25 (Christmas). The Tuesday after the first Monday in November is Election Day, a federal government holiday in presidential-election years (held every 4 years, and next in 2012).

Insurance -- Visitors from outside the United States should consider buying travel insurance, especially a policy providing medical coverage while you are here. Unlike many European countries, the United States does not usually offer free or low-cost medical care to its citizens or visitors. Doctors and hospitals are expensive, and in most cases will require advance payment or proof of coverage before they render their services. Good policies will cover the costs of an accident, repatriation, or death.

Packages such as Europ Assistance's "Worldwide Healthcare Plan" are sold by European automobile clubs and travel agencies at attractive rates. Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc. (tel. 800/777-8710; www.worldwideassistance.com) is the agent for Europ Assistance in the United States.

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or call Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated in the United States.

Language -- English is the common language in the United States, although Spanish is spoken by millions of immigrants from South and Central America.

Legal Aid -- If you are "pulled over" for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail, or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. Here the burden is on the state to prove a person's guilt beyond a reasonable doubt, and everyone has the right to remain silent, whether suspected of a crime or actually arrested. Once arrested, a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice. International visitors should call their embassy or consulate.

Mail -- At press time, domestic postage rates were 28¢ for a postcard and 44¢ for a letter. For international mail, a first-class letter of up to 1 ounce costs 98¢ (75¢ to Canada and 79¢ to Mexico); a first-class postcard costs the same as a letter. For more information go to www.usps.com.

If you aren't sure what your address will be in the United States, mail can be sent to you, in your name, c/o General Delivery at the main post office of the city or region where you expect to be. (Call tel. 800/275-8777 for information on the nearest post office.) The addressee must pick up mail in person and must produce proof of identity (driver's license, passport, and so forth). Most post offices will hold your mail for up to 1 month, and are open Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm, and Saturday from 9am to 3pm.

Always include zip codes when mailing items in the U.S. If you don't know your zip code, visit www.usps.com/zip4.

Newspapers & Magazines -- Each major city in Virginia has its own daily newspaper. The Richmond Times-Dispatch (www.timesdispatch.com), The Roanoke Times (www.roanoke.com), and the Norfolk Virginian-Pilot (www.pilotonline.com) are the largest. The Washington Post (www.washingtonpost.com) and USA Today (www.usatoday.com) are available at newsstands and coin boxes throughout the state.

Police -- To reach the police in an emergency, dial tel. 911 from any phone (no charge).

Smoking -- Virginia has come a long way since the days when tobacco was the backbone of its economy, and its legislators steadfastly refused to enact anti-smoking laws. It is now illegal to smoke in public buildings in Virginia, including restaurants and bars unless they have a smoking room with its own ventilation system. As is true throughout the United States, you must be at least 18 years old to purchase tobacco products.

Taxes -- The Virginia state sales tax is 5% for most purchases plus 2% on hotel rooms. Local hotel taxes vary; in most communities it's 5%, which makes the total tax on your hotel bill at least 12%. Most local jurisdictions also add a restaurant tax, which jacks up the price of food and drink by 10% or more.

The United States has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level. Every state, county, and city may levy its own local tax on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant checks and airline tickets. These taxes will not appear on price tags.

Time -- The continental United States is divided into four time zones: Eastern Standard Time (EST), Central Standard Time (CST), Mountain Standard Time (MST), and Pacific Standard Time (PST). Alaska and Hawaii have their own zones.

Virginia is on Eastern Standard Time, the same as New York City and other East Coast cities. For example, when it's noon in Richmond, it's 11am in Chicago (CST), 10am in Denver (MST), 9am in Los Angeles (PST), it's 7am in Honolulu (HST), 5pm in London (GMT), and 2am the next day in Sydney.

Daylight saving time is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November, except in Arizona, Hawaii, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time.

Tipping -- Tips are a very important part of certain workers' income, and gratuities are the standard way of showing appreciation for services provided. (Tipping is certainly not compulsory if the service is poor!)

In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you've left a disaster area for him or her to clean up). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 every time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff and bartenders 15% to 20% of the check, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $1 per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip cab drivers 15% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.

Toilets -- You won't find public toilets or "restrooms" on the streets in most U.S. cities but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the best bet for clean facilities. Restaurants and bars in resorts or heavily visited areas may reserve their restrooms for patrons.

Visitor Information -- Each city and town has a visitor information office. I list contact information for these offices in the destination chapters.

The best source for statewide information is the Virginia Tourism Corporation, 901 E. Byrd St. (P.O. Box 798), Richmond, VA 23219 (tel. 800/847-4882 or 804/786-2051; fax 804/786-1919; www.virginia.org). It publishes or distributes a host of information, including a statewide travel planner; official state highway maps (including the state's "Civil War Trails" and a very useful "scenic byways" map highlighting the state's many beautiful routes); lists of hotels, motels, country inns, and bed-and-breakfasts; an outdoor guide to the state; a golf directory; a biking guide; a state park directory; a list of Virginia wineries and wine festivals; and a guide for travelers with disabilities. Most are available on, or can be ordered from, its website.

A good regional source is www.visithamptonroads.com, operated by the Hampton Roads Partnership and covering Norfolk, Portsmouth, Virginia Beach, Hampton, Newport News, the Williamsburg area, and other localities in southeastern Virginia.

Another is the Shenandoah Valley Travel Association, 277 W. Old Cross Rd. (P.O. Box 1040), New Market, VA 22844 (tel. 877/847-4878 or 540/740-3131; www.visitshenandoah.org), which covers the valley from Winchester to Lexington.

The National Geographic Society (www.nationalgeographic.com/maps) publishes excellent maps of Shenandoah National Park (map no. 228) and of Mount Rogers National Recreation Area (no. 786).

I'm an ardent reader of Virginia Living (www.virginialiving.com), a slick lifestyle magazine published bimonthly in Richmond. Its compilation of festivals and events is comprehensive.

I post updates to the information in this guide on my personal website, www.billgoodwin.com.

Dial 511 for Info -- You can dial tel. 511 from anywhere in Virginia and receive up-to-date travel, traffic, and weather information.

Calendar of Events

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

Whale-Watching Boat Trips, Virginia Beach. The Virginia Aquarium & Marine Science Center sends cruise boats out looking for whales. Sightings are not guaranteed. Call tel. 757/437-2628, or go to www.vmsm.com. January 2 to mid-March.

Open House at Stratford Hall, on the Northern Neck, Lee's birthplace. Call tel. 804/493-8038, or go to www.stratfordhall.org. January 15.

Lee Birthday Celebrations, Alexandria. Period music, plus house tours at Lee-Fendall House. Call tel. 703/548-1789, or go to www.leefendallhouse.org. Fourth Sunday in January.

February

George Washington Birthday Events, Alexandria, Mount Vernon, Fredericksburg. Old Town Alexandria puts on the dog to celebrate GW's birthday: walking tours; symposia; black tie or Colonial costume Saturday-evening dinner, followed by a birthnight ball at Gadsby's Tavern; a parade on Monday (tel. 800/388-9119 or 703/838-4200; www.visitalexandria.com). George's home at Mount Vernon also gets in on the act. Call tel. 703/780-2000, or go to www.mountvernon.org. Down in Fredericksburg, special activities are held at Mary Washington House and George Washington's Ferry Farm. Call tel. 800/678-4748 or 540/373-1776 (www.visitfred.com). Presidents' Day weekend.

Maymont Flower and Garden Show, Richmond. A breath of spring, with landscape exhibits, vendors, and speakers at the Greater Richmond Coliseum. Call tel. 804/358-7166, or go to www.maymont.org. Late February.

March

James Madison's Birthday, Montpelier. Ceremony at cemetery and reception at house. Call tel. 540/672-2728, or go to www.montpelier.org. March 16.

Highland Maple Festival, Monterey. See maple syrup produced, pour it over pancakes, and visit one of the state's largest crafts shows. Call tel. 540/468-2550, or go to www.highlandcounty.org. Second and third weekends in March.

Patrick Henry Speech Reenactment, St. John's Episcopal Church, Richmond. "Give me liberty or give me death" resounds once again. Call tel. 804/648-5015, or go to www.historicstjohnschurch.org. Closest Sunday to March 23.

April

Thomas Jefferson's Birthday Commemoration, Monticello, Charlottesville. Wreath-laying ceremony at gravesite, fife-and-drum corps, and a speaker. Call tel. 434/984-9822, or go to www.monticello.org. April 13.

Virginia Arts Festival, Williamsburg, Hampton, Newport News, Norfolk, Virginia Beach. Famous performers appear at venues from Williamsburg to Virginia Beach during this month-long festival. Call tel. 757/282-2800, or go to www.virginiaartsfest.com. Mid-April to mid-May.

Virginia Fly-Fishing Festival, Waynesboro. Anglers gather beside the South River for demonstrations, lectures, casting instruction, live music, and wine tasting. Call tel. 703/403-8338, or go to www.vaflyfishingfestival.org. Third weekend in April.

Norfolk's International Azalea Festival, Norfolk. The brilliant beauty of azaleas in bloom is the backdrop for ceremonies in the Norfolk Botanical Garden saluting NATO countries, including the crowning of a queen who reigns at a parade and other festivities. Also features a military display that includes an air show, visiting of ships, and aircraft ground exhibits. Call tel. 757/441-1852, or go to www.azaleafestival.org. Last week in April.

Historic Garden Week in Virginia, statewide. The event of the year for garden lovers -- a celebration with tours of the grounds and gardens at more than 250 Virginia landmarks, including plantations and other sites open only during this week. For information, contact the Garden Club of Virginia, 12 E. Franklin St., Richmond, VA 23219 (tel. 804/644-7776 or 804/643-7141; www.vagardenweek.org). Last full week in April.

May

Shenandoah Apple Blossom Festival, Winchester. Acres of orchards in blossom throughout the valley, plus 5 days of music, band competitions, parades, the coronation of the queen, footraces, arts and crafts sales, midway amusements, and a carnival, with a celebrity grand marshal. Call tel. 540/662-3863, or go to www.thebloom.com. Usually first weekend in May.

Virginia Gold Cup Race Meet, Great Meadow Course, The Plains. Everyone dresses to the nines for the state's premier steeplechase event. Call tel. 800/697-2237 or 540/347-1215 (www.vagoldcup.com). First Saturday in May.

Seafood Festival, Chincoteague. All you can eat -- a seafood lover's dream. Get tickets in advance from Eastern Shore Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 460, Melfa, VA 23410 (tel. 757/787-2460; www.chincoteaguechamber.com). First weekend in May.

Jamestown Landing Day, Jamestown. Militia presentations and sailing demonstrations celebrate arrival of the first English settlers in 1607. Call tel. 888/593-4682 or 757/253-4838 (www.historyisfun.org). Early May.

Reenactment of Battle of New Market, New Market Battlefield State Historical Park, New Market. Call tel. 866/515-1864 or 540/740-3101 (www.vmi.edu/newmarket). Weekend closest to May 15.

New Market Day, Virginia Military Institute Campus, Lexington. Annual roll call for cadets who died in the Battle of New Market. Call tel. 540/464-7000, or go to www.vmi.edu. May 15.

Virginia Hunt Country Stable Tour, Loudon County. A unique opportunity to view prestigious Leesburg, Middleburg, and Upperville horse farms and private estates. Sponsored by Trinity Episcopal Church, Upperville. Call tel. 540/592-3711, or go to www.middleburgonline.com/stabletour. Memorial Day weekend.

Shenandoah Valley Music Festival, Orkney Springs. Music from classical to country fills the mountain air. Call Orkney Springs Hotel at tel. 800/459-3396 (tickets only) or 540/459-3396 (www.musicfest.org). Concerts start Memorial Day weekend and run on weekends through August.

Vintage Virginia Wine Festival, Great Meadows Steeplechase Course, The Plains. Taste the premium vintages from 35 wineries at this Hunt Country festival. Arts and crafts displays; food; and jazz, reggae, and pop music. Call tel. 800/277-2675, or go to www.vintagevirginia.com (for information about this and many other wine festivals statewide). Last weekend in May.

June

Harborfest, Norfolk. Tall ships, sailboat races, air shows, military demonstrations, and fireworks. Call tel. 757/441-1852, or go to www.festeventsva.org. Mid-June.

Alexandria Red Cross Waterfront Festival, Oronoco Bay Park, Old Town Alexandria. Fundraiser carnival features bands, fireworks, and views from atop a Ferris wheel to Washington, D.C. Call tel. 703/549-8300, or go to www.waterfrontfestival.org. Third weekend in June.

Boardwalk Art Show, Virginia Beach. Works in all mediums, between 14th and 28th streets on the Boardwalk. Call tel. 800/822-3224, or go to www.vbfun.com. Mid-June.

Ash Lawn Opera Festival, Charlottesville. James Monroe's home is one of several Charlottesville settings for opera, musicals, and concerts. Call tel. 434/293-4500, or go to www.ashlawnopera.org. End of June to August.

July

Independence Day Celebrations, statewide. Every town parties and shoots fireworks in honor of the nation's birthday. Contact local tourist information offices. July 4th.

Pony Swim and Auction, Chincoteague. Famous wild horses swim the Assateague Channel and are later herded to carnival grounds and auctioned off. Return swim to Assateague on Friday. Call tel. 757/336-6161 (fax 757/336-1241; www.chincoteaguechamber.com). The carnival-like festival is last 2 weeks in July; swim on last Wednesday in July.

August

Virginia Highlands Festival, Abingdon. Appalachian Mountain culture showcase for musicians, artists, artisans, and writers. Area's largest crafts show has an antiques market and hot-air balloons. Call tel. 800/435-3440 or 276/676-2282 (www.vahighlandsfestival.org). First 2 weeks in August.

Old Time Fiddlers' Convention, Galax. Dating to 1935, one of the largest and oldest such conventions in the world. It also coincides with the Fiddlefest street festival. Call tel. 276/236-8541, or go to www.oldfiddlersconvention.com. Early August.

September

American Music Festival, Virginia Beach. Top entertainers perform on the sand. Tickets are first-come, first-served. Call tel. 800/822-3224, or go to www.vbfun.com. Labor Day weekend.

The Irvington Stomp, Irvington. Guests actually stomp grapes in the European fashion during this fun-filled event at White Fences Vineyard & Winery. Call tel. 804/438-5559, or go to www.irvingtonstomp.com. Saturday of Labor Day weekend.

State Fair of Virginia, Richmond Raceway Complex, Richmond. Rides, entertainment, agricultural exhibits, pioneer farmstead, and flower shows. Call tel. 800/588-3247 or 804/228-3200 (www.statefairva.org). Ten days in late September.

October

Chincoteague Oyster Festival, Chincoteague. A feast of oysters -- but for advance ticket holders only. Call tel. 804/336-6161, or go to www.chincoteaguechamber.com. Early October.

Waterford Homes Tour and Crafts Exhibit, Waterford Village. This tiny Quaker town grows to some 40,000 on this one weekend. Call tel. 540/882-3018, or go to www.waterfordva.org. First weekend in October.

Virginia Film Festival, Charlottesville. University of Virginia pays tribute to all things celluloid. Call tel. 800/882-3378, or go to www.vafilm.com. Mid-October.

Yorktown Day, Colonial National Historic Park, Yorktown. British surrender in 1781 celebrated with a parade, historic house tours, Colonial music and dress, and military drills. Call tel. 757/898-2410 or 898-3400 (www.nps.gov/colo). October 19.

International Gold Cup, Great Meadows Course, The Plains. Fall colors provide a backdrop to one of the most prestigious steeplechase races. Call tel. 800/697-2237 or 540/347-1215 (www.vagoldcup.com). Third Saturday in October.

Marine Corps Marathon, Arlington. More than 18,000 men and women run a 26.2-mile course from Arlington through Washington, D.C., and back. The U.S. Marine Corps' "People's Marathon" is open to all (there's even a wheelchair division). Call tel. 800/786-8762 or 703/784-2265 (www.marinemarathon.com). Third or fourth Sunday in October.

November

The First Thanksgiving, Charles City. Reenactment at Berkeley Plantation. Call tel. 888/466-6018 or 804/829-6018 (www.berkeleyplantation.com). Early November.

Assateague Island Waterfowl Week, Chincoteague. The only time of the year when visitors can drive to the northern end of Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge on Assateague Island. Guided walks for pedestrians. Call tel. 757/336-6122, or go to http://chinco.fws.gov. Thanksgiving weekend.

December

Mount Vernon by Candlelight, Mount Vernon. See Washington's mansion as he would have, by the light of candles. Tickets required. Call tel. 703/780-2000, or go to www.mountvernon.org. First week in December.

Grand Illumination, Williamsburg. Gala opening of holiday season with fife-and-drum corps, illumination of buildings, caroling, dancing, and fireworks. Call tel. 800/447-8679 or 757/220-7645 (www.colonialwilliamsburg.com). First Saturday in December.

Christmas Candlelight Tour, Fredericksburg. Historic homes welcome visitors. Call tel. 800/678-4748 or 540/373-1776 (www.visitfred.com). First weekend in December.

Monticello Candlelight Tour, Charlottesville. Experience authentic Colonial decorations. Call tel. 804/984-9822, or go to www.monticello.org. Early December.

Historic Michie Tavern Feast and Open House, Charlottesville. The old tavern puts on two Christmastime feasts. Reservations required. Call tel. 804/977-1234, or go to www.michietavern.com. Second weekend in December.

Jamestown Christmas, Jamestown. Jamestown Settlement is all decked out 17th-century-style. Call tel. 888/593-4682 or 757/253-4838 (www.historyisfun.org). Second to fourth week in December.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Virginia has its intolerant contingent, particularly in rural areas, and the conservative Republicans in our state legislature are not about to legalize gay marriage (fornication is still technically a crime in Virginia regardless of gender!). But by and large, the state is a safe, comfortable place for gay and lesbian travelers. There are gay and lesbian communities in most cities here.

Regions in Brief

First of all, you must decide where to go. I can't make that decision for you, but I can briefly tell you what the state has to offer.

Northern Virginia

My home area in northern Virginia is the fastest-growing, wealthiest, and most densely populated part of the state -- with horrendous traffic to prove it. Our northern counties once were a suburban bedroom for workers in Washington, D.C., but not anymore. Areas such as Tysons Corner have become de facto cities in their own right, with employment in high-tech service industries outstripping that of the federal government. Just across the Potomac from the nation's capital, Arlington is best known for its national cemetery. The historic Old Town district of Alexandria offers fascinating daytime walks as well as good restaurants. To the south lie the Potomac plantations, including George Washington's Mount Vernon. To the west, I enjoy driving out to Virginia's hilly Hunt Country, where the first major battle of the Civil War was fought at Manassas.

Fredericksburg & the Northern Neck

I always look forward to visiting Fredericksburg, where quaint cobblestone streets and historic houses recall America's first heroes -- George Washington, James Monroe, John Paul Jones -- as does the quiet Northern Neck farmland, where Washington and Robert E. Lee were born. Military buffs love to explore Fredericksburg's Civil War battlefields.

Charlottesville

Located in the rolling Piedmont hills known as "Mr. Jefferson's country," Charlottesville boasts President Thomas Jefferson's magnificent estate, Monticello, as well as the University of Virginia, which he designed. Drives south bring you to Poplar Forest, his beloved retreat; Patrick Henry's final home at Red Hill; and Appomattox Court House, where the Civil War ended when Robert E. Lee surrendered to Ulysses S. Grant.

The Shenandoah Valley

Some of Virginia's most striking scenic views are from the Skyline Drive, which follows the crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains through magnificent Shenandoah National Park, where you can explore a host of hiking paths, including part of the Maine-to-Georgia Appalachian Trail. Down below, charming towns like Winchester, Front Royal, Luray, Staunton, and Lexington evoke the Civil War, which flowed over the rolling countryside of the Shenandoah Valley, the South's breadbasket. In another valley high in the Allegheny Mountains to the west lie the famous mineral waters of Warm Springs and Hot Springs.

The Southwest Highlands

Beyond the vibrant railroad city of Roanoke rise the highlands of Virginia's southwestern extremity, a land of forests, waterfalls, and streams seemingly untouched since Daniel Boone led settlers along the Great Wilderness Road into Kentucky. The Blue Ridge Parkway wanders along its eastern border. Here the state's highest point, Mount Rogers, sits surrounded by a national recreation area teeming with trails for hiking, mountain biking, and horseback riding. Down in the Great Valley of Virginia, the quaint town of Abingdon features the famous Barter Theatre, begun during the Great Depression when its company traded tickets for hams.

Richmond

The state capital has few rivals among U.S. cities for its historic associations, among them St. John's Church, where Patrick Henry said, "Give me liberty, or give me death." But it was Richmond's role as the rebel capital during the Civil War that brings visitors to the Museum of the Confederacy and the Richmond and Petersburg battlefields. Fine arts and science museums, cafes, lively concerts, and theater add to Richmond's cosmopolitan ambience, and children can get their kicks at nearby Paramount's Kings Dominion amusement park.

Williamsburg, Yorktown & Jamestown

Coastal Virginia's "Historic Triangle" is one of the country's most visited areas, and with good reason. Jamestown is where America's first permanent English settlers arrived in 1607 (and some of my own ancestors in 1613). Williamsburg immaculately re-creates Virginia's Colonial capital, and Yorktown commemorates the last battle of the American Revolution. Adding to the triangle's allure are theme parks and world-class discount shopping. From here it's an easy excursion to see the recovered gun turret of the USS Monitor at one of the nation's premier maritime museums in the shipbuilding city of Newport News. Historic Hampton may be the country's oldest continuous English-speaking settlement, but it boasts a modern, high-tech air and space museum.

Norfolk, Virginia Beach & the Eastern Shore

The great harbor of Hampton Roads is home to the resurgent cities of Norfolk and Portsmouth. You can play in the surf at Virginia Beach, whose boardwalk and 20 miles of sandy beach are lined with hotels, and commune with nature in Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge and remote False Cape State Park. Drive across the 17-mile Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel to the Eastern Shore, an unspoiled sanctuary noted for the fishing village of Chincoteague and nearby Assateague Island, whose wildlife refuge and national seashore have protected the famous wild ponies and prevented any development on almost 40 miles of pristine beach.

When to Go

Virginia is a gorgeous place in late September and early October, during Indian summer when our most settled period of weather gives us warm days and cool nights. It gets even more beautiful later in October, when the turning leaves blaze orange, red, and yellow across the state. The "leaf season" also is the most crowded time in the western part of the state, when throngs of visitors mob the mountains. (You can find out the approximate dates for peak color in the Shenandoah Valley by calling tel. 800/434-5323.)

Otherwise, Virginia is busiest during summer, when the historic sites, theme parks, and beaches draw millions of visitors -- and hotel rates are at their highest. The least crowded -- and least expensive -- time to visit is in spring. That's when the dogwoods, azaleas, and wildflowers are in a riot of bloom from one end of Virginia to the other.

The Climate -- Virginia enjoys four distinct seasons, with some variations from the warmer, more humid coastal areas to the cooler climate in the mountains. Wintertime snows are usually confined to northern Virginia and the mountains. In summer, extremely hot and humid spells can last several weeks but are normally short-lived. Spring and autumn are long seasons, and in terms of natural beauty and heavenly climate, they're optimum times to visit. Annual rainfall averages 46 inches; annual snowfall, 18 inches.