A walk through the old city of Viseu will reveal ancient walls, handsome mansions and quirky traditional stores. Just south of the Cathedral, Praça Dom Duarte is surrounded by fine stone houses and overlooked by the Passeio dos Cônegos, or cannons' walk, a covered passage along old defensive walls. Rua Direita and Rua Formosa are long pedestrian streets lined with shops and restaurants. If you need a pitstop, pull into Pastelaria Horta,  R. Formosa 22, a cafe and pastry shop that's been serving up local sweet specialities since 1873.

The narrow lanes of the old town eventually open up to the east to a broad tree-shaded plaza officially called Praça da República, but known to the locals who come to stroll or sit out at the sidewalk cafe's as Rossio. If you can't find that ideal Viseu souvenir amid the old town stores, take a short walk to the Casa da Ribeira, Largo Nossa Senhora da Conceição, (tel. 232 429 761), a restored watermill on the banks of the river Paiva which serves as an exhibition space and sales point for many of the region’s best artisans.

You’ll like end the day in the Adro da Sé, one of the most harmonious squares in Portugal, where the severe bare stone facade of this cathedral faces the airy, white baroque front of the Igreja da Misericórdia.

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