If the volcano is still erupting, be sure to see it after dark as the lava snakes down the side of the mountain and pours into the sea. About an hour before sunset, head back into the park, 23 miles down Chain of Craters Road. Get ready to see the red--it's a vivid display you'll never forget. If conditions are good and the flow is accessible when you're there--sometimes it's too far from the road to hike to, so you'll have to be content with seeing it from a distance--park rangers positioned at the barricades will tell you how to get to the current lava flow. Be sure to heed the ranger: In the past, a handful of hikers who ignored these directions died en route; new lava can be unstable and break off without warning. Take water, a flashlight, and your camera, and wear sturdy shoes.

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