A Cappuccino, a Gelato & a Glass of Wine -- Right on the main square, with a few tables outside, sits the very friendly little Bar Priori, Piazza Priori 2 (3496-95-1770), our regular coffee-break stop. There's nowhere better than L'Incontro, Via Matteoti 18 (tel. 0588-80-500), for a gelato or relaxed pit stop, with homemade pastries. Their artisan chocolate is also pretty good. Our favorite enoteca in town is grottolike La Vena di Vino, Via Don Minzoni 30 (tel. 0588-81-491; www.lavenadivino.com), which has an especially good range of reds plus cheese platters to accompany them. Glasses range from 2.50€ to 8€.

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