One of your best bets for a drink is Ritrovo Remigio, Porto di Levante, open daily from 6am to 2am. It offers terrace seating overlooking Porto di Levante, where the ferries and hydrofoils from the mainland come in. In addition to its soothing cocktails, it serves excellent pastries and gelato.

The best nightlife -- virtually the only nightlife -- is found at Cantine Stevenson, Via Porto di Levante (tel. 090-9853247), the former wine cellars of James Stevenson, a virtual Renaissance man who did much to change the face of the island. Born in Wales, Stevenson's many interests led him to Vulcano, where he exported sulfur and pumice. In 1870, he purchased most of the island and planted the first vineyards. Here, in his former wine cellars, live music is featured nightly -- folk, Sicilian, pop, rock, jazz, or blues -- and more than 600 types of wine are sold. The old-style cantina, with seats outside in summer, is open April through September, daily from noon to 3am.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.