Around since 2005, Hank’s just keeps getting better and better. Chef/owner Jamie Leeds now has four Oyster Bars, with the original at Dupont Circle (1624 Q St. NW; tel. 202/462-4265) and this one at the Wharf the newest…and the largest: The restaurant can seat nearly 200 people. Like every other Wharf venue, Hank’s capitalizes on its waterfront location, with windows opening to covered patios on two sides, giving patrons, inside and out, great views of wharf activity and the parade of people passing by. The place always feels festive, and the food is always great; I’m particularly fond of the crab cake, the po’boys, and just about anything with oyster in the name. Leeds caters to meat lovers, as well, with a daily “Meat&2” entree. If it’s Sunday, say, fried chicken is the daily special, and comes with two sides from a list of eight. Hank’s other Oyster Bars are on Capitol Hill, at 633 Pennsylvania Ave. SE (tel. 202/733-1971), and in Old Town Alexandria, at 1026 King St. (tel. 703/739-4265). Leeds also has a Hank’s Pasta Bar in Old Town, at 600 Montgomery St. (tel. 571/312-4117).