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Enter Hill Country Barbecue and you leave official Washington at the door. It’s just not possible to cleave to lofty attitudes and politicking when the Red Dirt Rangers or some such band are playing up a storm, as you make your way through a mess of dry-rubbed Texas barbecued ribs (“smoked low and slow over Texas oak”), skillet corn bread, and sweet potato bourbon mash. Meats are priced by weight, from $5.50 per half-pound of barbeque chicken to $28 per pound of short ribs; sides range in price from $4.75 for a standard serving of coleslaw to $10.75 for a large serving of mac and cheese. You place your order upstairs in the cafeteria/kitchen, and then carry it to your seat, either in the large dining room adjoining the cafeteria or to your table downstairs. I recommend the downstairs. That’s where the bands play and where the lively Boots Bar is. Families, however, will want to stay upstairs, and should also know about the Kids 10 & Under Combo deal: $10 for one pork rib, a quarter-pound of brisket, or one-eighth chicken; small side dish or bag of Fritos; and a chocolate chunk cookie.