Planning a trip to Wellington

When to Go

Climate

Wellington enjoys a year-round temperate climate, with temperatures rarely dipping below freezing during winter (June-August) although strong southerly winds can make it feel much colder. Summer (December-March) temperatures range from 18°C to 25°C (64°F–77°F), moderated by the city’s position on the south coast of North Island. Rainfall is heaviest in the winter months although rain is not unusual year round.

Special Events

Wellington is home to the country's biggest cultural event, the biennial New Zealand International Arts Festival (tel. 04/473-0149; www.nzfestival.telecom.co.nz). It features international works and the best of New Zealand talent in everything from opera to jazz, dance to comedy. The next festival will be staged in February and March 2010. A major spinoff from the festival is the growth of the Wellington Fringe Festival (tel. 04/495-8015; www.fringe.org.nz), which is a completely separate event run at the same time. It's now an annual event celebrating offbeat productions and innovative art forms.

Summer City Festival (tel. 04/801-3500; www.wellington.govt.nz), staged during January and February each year, launches Wellington's events calendar with more than 70 free activities such as the Teddy Bears' Picnic, the Rock Barge Concert on Oriental Parade, a Pacific Islands Festival, and Summer Shakespeare in the Botanic Garden Dell. Montana World of Wearable Art (tel. 03/548-9299; www.worldofwearableart.com) is a theatrical costume spectacle not to be missed, now staged annually at the Events Centre Wellington in mid-September and early October. This 2-hour visual extravaganza attracts international entrants and sell-out audiences of over 22,000 -- not bad considering it started in Nelson in 1987 in a leaky tent with just 200 people watching. Montana Wellington International Jazz Festival (www.jazzfestival.co.nz) features a superb roster of national and international jazz musicians performing modern jazz through the classics (mid- to late Oct at various city locations).

Martinborough Country Fair (tel. 06/306-9043; www.martinboroughfair.org.nz) is a popular gathering of crafts artisans from around the country. Held the first Saturday in February and the first Saturday in March, it attracts about 30,000 visitors. Martinborough is about an hour's drive northeast of Wellington. Golden Shears (tel. 06/378-7373; www.goldenshears.co.nz) is a 3-day international shearing contest that includes wool handling and sheep and goat shearing. It's held in late February or early March in Masterton, 103km (64 miles) northeast of Wellington. In November, catch a special 50-minute festival train from Wellington to the Toast Martinborough Wine, Food & Music Festival (tel. 06/306-9183; www.toastmartinborough.co.nz). Shuttles run a continuous circuit within a 10km (6-mile) area of Martinborough's town square to Martinborough vineyards, where tastings take place with the winemakers.

Getting There

By Plane

Wellington International Airport (www.wellingtonairport.co.nz) is 8km (5 miles) southeast of the city. The quickest route to the city from here passes through Mount Victoria via a two-lane tunnel. A more circuitous, but more scenic, route travels via Oriental Parade. The trip usually takes 15 to 20 minutes, although it can exceed 30 minutes at peak traffic times.

Wellington Airport operates both international and domestic business from the same building. It is served by the following international airlines: Air New Zealand (tel. 0800/737-000 in NZ, or 04/336-2400; www.airnewzealand.co.nz), British Airways (tel. 09/966-9777; www.ba.com), Lufthansa (tel. 0800/945-220 in NZ; www.lufthansa.com), Qantas Airways (tel. 0800/808-767; www.qantas.com), Singapore Airlines (tel. 0800/808-909; www.singaporeair.com), and Pacific Blue (tel. 0800/670-000; www.flypacificblue.com).

The leading domestic airlines that fly into Wellington are Air New Zealand (tel. 0800/737-000; www.airnz.com), Jetstar (tel. 0800/800-995; www.jetstar.com), and Soundsair Ltd. (tel. 0800/505-505; www.soundsair.com). For arrival and departure information, call tel. 04/388-9900.

The Wellington Airport Visitor Information Centre (tel. 04/385-5123; fax 04/385-5137; www.wellingtonairport.co.nz) is on level one of the main terminal building. Staff members can assist with booking accommodations, TranzRail, Interislander ferries, and long-distance coaches. It’s open daily from 7am to 8pm.

The terminal has nine cafes and restaurants in a large food hall that offer everything from pizza and pasta to wine and tapas. There are also car-rental desks, duty-free stores, gift shops, a Travelex Foreign Exchange service open during all international flight times, Internet stations, and ATMs. Coin-operated lockers can be found on the ground floor. Most retail outlets are open 6:30am to 8pm, some later. Duty-free stores are open for every international flight.

Super Shuttle (tel. 0800/748-885 in NZ, or 04/472-9552; www.supershuttle.co.nz) operates between the airport, the city, and the railway station Monday through Friday. It costs NZ$25 per person. Several shuttle operators provide door-to-door service at higher fares.

The Airport Flyer, the GO Wellington airport express bus Metlink (tel. 04/569-2933; www.airportflyer.co.nz), goes right into the inner city and then on to Waterloo Interchange in Lower Hutt. It operates every 15 minutes, 365 days a year from 6:30am to 9:30pm. A Metrolink Explorer Pass costs NZ$20 per person and gives unlimited all-day travel (after 9am), on all Flyer, GO Wellington, and Valley Flyer services. It’s available from bus drivers. Single-ride tickets are also available. The trip from the airport to central-city stops takes about 45 minutes and costs around NZ$10 for adults and NZ$6 for children. A new fleet of buses complies with the latest European emission standard, Euro 5, which means exhaust emissions are up to 90% lower than the older buses. The buses also have air-conditioning, free Wi-Fi, and lowered floors for wheelchair access. The Airport Flyer departs from the southern end of the terminal on Level 0; exit the baggage claim area and turn right.

A taxi between the city center and the airport costs around NZ$35, depending on the destination. The fare to Lower Hutt is approximately NZ$65 to NZ$80. Taxi stands are directly outside the main terminal. Eco Taxis (tel. 04/387-4000; www.ecotaxis.co.nz) have a fixed fare of NZ$20 into the city (for cash). If you use a credit card it will cost NZ$25.If you have any problems with your taxi driver, call Wellington Airport Operation (tel. 04/385-5124).

By Train & Coach (Bus)

Most long-distance trains depart from the Wellington Railway Station, on Waterloo Quay. For long-distance rail information, call tel. 0800/802-802 in New Zealand or 04/495-0775, or visit www.tranzscenic.co.nz. Most major hostels and hotels are within a short taxi ride of the station.

For coach information, call InterCity (tel. 09/623-1503; www.intercity.co.nz) or Newmans (tel. 09/623-1504; www.newmanscoach.co.nz). Both lines operate out of the railway station. Kiwi Experience (tel. 09/366-1665) and the Magic Travellers Network (tel. 09/358-5600) also stop in Wellington.

By Car

Wellington is reached via highways 1 and 2. It’s 195km (121 miles) from Wanganui (approx. 2 hr.); 460km (285 miles) from Rotorua (approx. 5 hr.); and 655km (406 miles) from Auckland (approx. 8 hr.). The motorway terminates right in the city.

By Ferry

For information on the Interislander Wellington-Picton ferry, call tel. 0800/802-802 or check www.interislander.co.nz. Be aware that there are two ferry operators working between Wellington and Picton. The three Interislander ferries operate all year and take 3 hours to cross the strait. Strait Shipping Ltd., Waterloo Quay (tel. 0800/844-844 in NZ; www.bluebridge.co.nz), operates Bluebridge Cook Strait Ferry, traveling between Picton and Wellington three times daily.. The Bluebridge trip is cheapest but it takes 3 hours 20 minutes. If you book either online you get the best fares—especially if you book well ahead. Cook Strait can be notoriously rough in bad weather, so if you get seasick, take your medication.

Neighborhoods in Brief

City Layout

The main focal point of the inner city is the harbor. The new Te Papa national museum fronts this water, as does the Queen?s Wharf dining and shopping complex. Unlike the rest of the city, the central business district (CBD) is generally flat and easily negotiable. The best shopping is along Lambton Quay and Willis Street; Manners Street and Cuba Mall also have plenty of stores. They are less upmarket, but Cuba Mall especially is one of the hippest areas, known for its edgy boutiques, design stores, and excellent eateries. This is my favorite part of Wellington because it's always busy and interesting. The inner area of Lambton Quay, Willis Street, and The Terrace is home to many of the nation's corporate headquarters and thus is second home to "the suits." Several leading hotels and apartment complexes are also in this area, so if you base yourself here, you won't need a car to see most of the major attractions and shops - but you will need earplugs for a sound sleep.

The heaviest concentration of bars and eateries is between Courtenay Place and Wakefield Street and the lanes running between them, especially Blair and Allen streets. Most of the inner city is safe, but I wouldn't go lurking around Cuba Mall after closing time, especially the top end, which has always been seen as the heart of the seedier side of the sex industry. Manners Mall is no more appealing late at night. Courtenay Place on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights is the center of nightlife, but there are often numerous people about who have consumed more than their fair share of alcohol and who may not be entirely open to reason. Generally, though, personal safety rules are the same as in any other international city - use common sense and don't wander about dark places alone in the middle of the night. Many inner city areas are now under security camera surveillance.

The Neighborhoods in Brief

Thorndon --This neighborhood sits right on the fault line, but that hasn't detracted from real estate values here. It's seen as one of the premier suburbs in Wellington because of its beautiful historic buildings, its views, and its proximity to the inner city. There are some excellent bed-and-breakfasts within walking distance of Parliament Buildings, the city, the Botanic Garden, and Tinakori Village, a fashionable little spot for shopping and eating. The area's only downsides are the noise from the motorway, the heavy traffic on Tinakori Road, and the lack of both off-and on-street parking.

Mount Victoria -- This is where I would live if I thought I could afford anything bigger than a letter box. It's very close to the Courtenay Place end of town, everything is within walking distance, and it's filled with gorgeous (slightly less perfect) wooden houses. It's also quieter. Parking is generally earmarked for residents only during business hours, but you'll be fine after 6pm.

Kelburn -- Kelburn is easily accessed via the cable car from Lambton Quay, which runs up to the Botanic Garden and Victoria University. Homes in this area are sought after for their especially good harbor and city views.

Oriental Bay -- This part of town offers prime real estate just 800m (about 1/2 mile) around the water's edge from the inner city and Mount Victoria. Again, it's a great place to stay, with several hotels and private high-rise apartments stretched out along Oriental Parade, which is a favorite playground for in-line skaters, walkers, and runners. There are hints of San Francisco here, I'm told, plus a few excellent cafes and restaurants and beautiful city and harbor views.

Evans Bay -- This area is far less inspiring. It's farther out, around the point, and its prime attraction is its proximity to the airport.

Lower Hutt -- A city within a city-Lower Hutt is the ninth largest in New Zealand. It's across the harbor from Wellington proper and accessed via a short motorway drive, usually about 15 minutes in good traffic. This is where you'll find the fabulous New Dowse Art Museum.

Getting Around

Wellington is blessed with an excellent public transport system, and you can easily see the best attractions without a car.

By Bus

Call GO Wellington (tel. 04/387-8700; www.gowellingtonbus.co.nz) for information on all urban services. Buses operate daily 7am to 11pm on most routes and the visitor center can give you a comprehensive city map that shows major bus routes and timetables. Timetables are also available from newsstands. The main city bus terminal, Lambton Interchange, is adjacent to the main railway station on the corner of Bunny and Featherston streets. The easiest places to catch buses in the inner city are Lambton Quay, Willis Street, Dixon Street, Cuba Mall, Courtenay Place, and the railway station.

The NZ$10 BusAbout Day Pass gives you unlimited 1-day travel (after 9am) on the GO Wellington and Valley Flyer services. The Family BusAbout Pass (NZ$22) gives you unlimited travel for one adult and five children, or two adults and four children, after 9am week days and all day on weekends, on Go Wellington and Valley Flyer Services. The Metlink Explorer Pass (NZ$22) gives you a full day of unlimited travel after 9am on a wide range of train and bus services in and around Wellington, Hutt Valley, and the Kapiti Coast. If you’d like to travel more cheaply and efficiently, buy the NZ$10 Snapper Card (tel. 0800/555-345; www.snapper.co.nz), which stores NZ$300 and can be used for bus fares and everyday items, and can be reloaded. You simply swipe the card as you get on and off the bus and your fare is deducted. Children ages 1 to 8 use a green snapper card and kids 9 to 13, a red card. All the above passes can be purchased from your bus driver. Snapper Cards can also be purchased from participating retailers. Normal urban bus fares range from NZ$2.50 to NZ$5.

Newlands Coach Service (tel. 04/478-8315; www.newlands.co.nz) operates bus routes 50 to 59 from central Wellington to the northern suburbs. Purchase tickets from the driver; these buses arrive on Featherston Street and leave from Lambton Exchange.

By Taxi

There are taxi stands in front of the railway station; in the Lambton Quay shopping area between Grey and Hunter streets; on Bond Street just off Willis Street; on Dixon Street between Cuba and Victoria streets; and on Cambridge Terrace near Courtenay Place. For service, call Gold & Black Taxis (tel. 04/388-8888) or Wellington Combined Taxis (tel. 04/384-4444; www.taxis.co.nz). You’ll pay a NZ$1 surcharge if you phone for a taxi. Wellington Combined Taxis recently became the first taxi company in New Zealand to receive carboNZero certification, which means they are committed to reducing their greenhouse gas emissions. They use only hybrid, diesel, or LPG cars for their 442-strong fleet.

By Train

Tranz Metro operates daily electric train service from Wellington to its outer suburbs. Trains arrive at the railway station on Bunny Street; everything is an easy walk or bus ride from there. You can save money with the purchase of a Group Rover Pass (NZ$35), which gives unlimited travel for a day for up to four people traveling together. A Day Rover Pass costs NZ$14 and both passes are a cheaper way to travel between central and Lower Hutt, Upper Hutt, Johnsonville, Kapiti, Porirua and the Wairarapa. Call tel. 0800/801-700 in New Zealand, or check www.metlink.org.nz or www.tranzmetro.co.nz for timetable information and discount fares.

By Car

If you can avoid using a car in downtown Wellington, do so; you’ll save yourself a lot of hassles and steep parking fees. Traffic congestion is significant during the week and parking can be a problem. If you do drive, there are 10 major parking buildings in the inner city. All are well signposted and are open 24 hours. Rates range from NZ$4 to NZ$15 per hour. There are also pay-and-display parking areas, where a machine dispenses a ticket to be displayed in your car window. Note: If you don’t display a ticket, you will receive a significant fine. On Saturday and Sunday, parking is free in all metered pay-and-display areas and in council parking buildings, but the time limits still apply. If you exceed them, you can also expect a fine. Parking in resident parking zones is also a costly business if you get caught. Tip: If you park in the Te Papa carpark, you pay NZ$3.50 per hour up to a daily maximum of NZ$28, so it works out cheaper to leave your car there all day and walk to your chosen spots. They also offer an evening special of NZ$6 if you park after 5pm and leave by 2am.

By Cable Car

The cable car takes you from Lambton Quay straight up to the Botanic Garden, with a Victoria University stop on the way. It runs daily every 10 minutes from 7am to 10pm Monday through Friday, 8:30am to 10pm Saturday, 9am to 10pm Sunday and public holidays (closed Dec 25). A round-trip ticket costs NZ$6 for adults, NZ$2 for children 5 to 15. Family and senior discounts are available. For information, call tel. 04/472-2199. Please note that the Cable Car will be closed in April 2012 for its next safety survey; normal services will resume May 2012.

By Ferry

The Dominion Post Ferry runs daily between Queen’s Wharf, Somes Island, Eastbourne, and Days Bay Wharf. The trip to Days Bay takes 30 minutes one-way, and Eastbourne Village is a good 10-to 15-minute trip from Days Bay. The one-way fare costs NZ$12 for adults and NZ$6 for children; a family pass is NZ$50. Call tel. 04/494-3339 or 499-1282, or check www.eastbywest.co.nz for timetable information.

Have Scooter, Will Travel

If you have limited mobility, you can enjoy central Wellington and the waterfront on a free mobility scooter. Book it for 4 hours and pick it up from one of four locations—Freyberg Pool, Oriental Parade (tel. 04/499-4444); Wellington City Council, 101 Wakefield St. (tel. 04/499-4444); Fergs Kayaks, Shed 6, Queens Wharf (tel. 04/499-8898); or Wellington Botanic Garden, Tinakori Rd. (tel. 04/499-1400).

Fast Facts

American Express -- The foreign exchange bureau is in the Cable Car complex, 280-292 Lambton Quay (tel. 04/473-7766; fax 04/473-7765). It’s open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 5pm.

Area Code -- Wellington’s telephone area code (STD) is 04.

Babysitters -- Most hotels and B&Bs can arrange babysitters, or you can call Wellington Nannies College at tel. 04/384-5888 or visit www.wnc.co.nz.

Dentist -- For 24-hour service, phone tel. 04/801-5551.

Doctor --  For emergency doctor referrals, call tel. 04/472-2999.

Embassies & Consulates -- The U.S. Embassy is at 29 Fitzherbert Terrace, Thorndon (tel. 04/462-6000); the Canadian High Commission is at Level 11, 125 The Terrace (tel. 04/473-9577 ); and the British High Commission is at 44 Hill St. (tel. 04/924-2888).

Emergencies -- Dial tel. 111 to call the police, report a fire, or request an ambulance.

Hospitals -- Wellington Hospital  is on Riddiford Street, Newtown (tel. 04/385-5999).

Internet Access -- The Email Shop, 101 Wakefield St. (tel. 04/917-8860), has a full range of Internet and computer services; it’s open daily from 9am to 10pm. It also has outlets at the Wellington i-SITE Visitor Information Centre. For other options, try Cybernomad, 43 Courtenay Place (tel. 04/801-5964), which offers high-speed Internet service, or Cyber Spot Internet, 180 Lambton Quay (tel. 04/473-0098).

Newspapers -- Wellington’s morning newspaper, the Dominion, and evening paper, the Evening Post, are both published Monday through Saturday. On Sundays, get the best paper in the country, the Sunday Star Times. Overseas newspapers are sometimes available at newsstands and in the reading room of the National Library, Molesworth Street (tel. 04/474-3000).

Pharmacies -- There are late-night pharmacies at 17 Adelaide Rd., Wellington (tel. 04/385-8810), and 729 High St., Lower Hutt (tel. 04/939-6669).

Post Office -- The main post office is at 7 Waterloo Quay (tel. 0800/501-501; www.nzpost.co.nz). Collect poste restante mail at NZ Post, 43 Manners St. (tel. 04/473-5922). New Zealand post shops are open Monday through Friday, 9am to 5pm.

Toilets -- Free public toilets are at 69 sites throughout the city. Staffed facilities are at the ANZ Building (at the corner of Lambton Quay and Featherston St.). You'll also find restrooms at all major attractions and several department stores.