When the good folks of Wellington have a special ocassion to celebrate, this is where they come. Set inside the little Victorian Plimmer House this intimate restaurant is an institution....and one that shows no signs of dimming with age. The menu is concise, but covers the best of New Zealand with such classic dishes as lamb shanks, cured duck, and aged sirloin. We think the bernaise sauce (served with steak) may well be the best we've ever had; the creme brulee is deservedly legendary. Yet, despite the charming, formal setting and accomplished food, the Boulcott Street Bistro never feels pretencious (heck, they don't even take reservations). And that's our favorite part of taking a meal here: it's fine dining without the snobbery.