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Stiftskremsmünster

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The Benedictine Kremsmünster Abbey, near Bad Hall, between the emerging hills of the Alps and the Danube River, overlooking the Valley of Krems, was founded in A.D. 777. Two domed towers of the church dominate the local skyline. According to a 14th-century legend, Tassilo III, a Bavarian duke, had the abbey built to honor his son Gunther, who was killed by a wild boar during a hunt. The abbey's design was Romanesque, but in the 17th and 18th centuries, it was given the baroque treatment.



The most outstanding feature of a tour through Kremsmünster is the Fischbehalter, a fish pond made by the noted architect Carlo Antonio Carlone. It has five basins, each encircled by arcades, with statues that spout water. Figures depict everybody from Samson to Neptune.



In the cluster of abbey buildings, the Kaisersaal (Hall of the Emperors) has a portrait collection of the Holy Roman emperors, painted by Altomonte at the end of the 17th century. One of the most outstanding works of art is the Crucifixion, by Quentin Massys. The abbey still owns the chalice of Tassilo that was presented to the monks by the founding duke. It's the most ancient piece of goldsmith's work in either Austria or Bavaria, the duke's home. The library houses the priceless Codex Millenarius, an 8th-century translation of the Gospels.



An observatory tower, called the first skyscraper in Europe, rises nearly 61m (200 ft.) and has an exhibition on astronomy and other sciences. Many noted men have been pupils at the abbey school, including novelist Adalbert Stifter. The observatory tour (more about natural science) lasts 1 1/2 hours and includes the fish pond.



To reach the abbey, take a train departing from the Linz Hauptbahnhof (Main Railway Station) for Graz, which leaves every 40 to 60 minutes (trip time: 45 min.). The train stops at either Kremsmünster Markt or Kremsmünster Bahnhof, which are very close to one another. Once you exit, you'll see many signs pointing toward the Stift Kremsmünster. It's a well-marked ramble eastward for 20 minutes. From Bad Hall, buses depart from Bad Hall's railway station approximately every 90 minutes throughout the day for the 15-minute ride to Kremsmünster. Driving from Wels, take Route 138 south and then Route 122 east to Kremsmünster.