Hiking in Western Cape

Overberg -- There are plenty of walks in the undulating hills and mountains of the Overberg region, but my favorite is the Whale Trail (tel. 021/659-3500; www.capenature.org.za) in the De Hoop Nature Reserve, a 5-day walk in fynbos (a beautiful and diverse floral kingdom) paradise, with the last 3 days hugging the coast, with whales (in season) constantly within view and earshot. The first day is the hardest (15km), but it gets much easier after that (day 3 is only 8km) -- and besides, luggage is portaged.

Garden Route -- This is a walker's paradise. One of the best ways to experience this is with the Garden Route Trail, an easy 5-day coastal walk (all luggage portaged) that takes you from the forests of the Wilderness National Park to Brenton-on-Sea outside Knysna (www.gardenroutetrail.co.za). For serious hikers, the following are worth noting: the 108km (67-mile), 7-day Outeniqua Trail (tel. 044/302-5606), which takes you through plantations and indigenous forests (shorter versions available); the 60km (37-mile), 6-day Tsitsikamma Trail (tel. 044/281-1712), an inland version of the more famous Otter Trail, which includes long stretches of fynbos, as well as forests and rivers; and the 27km (17-mile), 2-day Harkerville Trail (also called the Mini Otter Trail, and a good alternative), which features forest and coastal scenery (tel. 044/302-5606). Best of all is the 42km (26-mile), 5-day Otter Trail, South Africa's most popular trail. It's a tough coastal walk, taking you through the Tsitsikamma National Park, past rivers and through indigenous forests, with magnificent views of the coast; its popularity means it must be booked at least a year in advance (tel. 012/426-5111; www.sanparks.org). The 3-night Dolphin Trail is a luxury trail in the Tsitsikamma, with all luggage portaged; comfortable, fully catered accommodations; plenty of time for lolling in tidal pools; and trained field guides accompanying walkers (tel. 042/280-3588; www.dolphintrail.co.za). For those who don't have the time (or energy) for overnight trails, the 10km (6.25-mile) Pied Kingfisher Trail, in Wilderness National Park, follows the river through lush indigenous forest to a waterfall; the 9.5km (5.6-mile) Kranshoek Walk, in the Harkerville Forest, is another great forest environment; and the 9km (5.5-mile) Robberg Trail, in Plettenberg Bay, is definitely worth exploring for its wild coastline and whale-watching opportunities.

West Coast -- Avid hikers are advised to find out more about the Cederberg Wilderness Area, some 3 hours north of Cape Town. With its strange twisted rock formations and tea-colored streams, this is a hiker and climber's paradise, plus it's off the beaten track (tel. 021/659-3500).