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Australia and the South Pacific / New Zealand / Northland / Whangarei / Best Attractions

Hundertwasser Art Centre & Wairau Art Gallery

Until recently, those unfamiliar with the work of celebrated Austrian-Kiwi artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser may have been a bit baffled by why his public washrooms in Kawakawa  are widely considered one of Northland’s top tourist attractions. But that all changed when this museum—which was nearly 30 years in the making—finally opened its doors in 2022, shedding light on the life and legacy of the man. The last authentic building ever designed by Hundertwasser—one of about 30 worldwide—it’s arguably a bigger attraction than the art it houses within. In characteristic Hundertwasser fashion, it’s a lopsided blur of color in the Town Basin, with not a straight line to be found. (“The straight line is godless,” wrote the artist, who said it reminded him of soldiers lining up during his years as a Jewish boy in Nazi-occupied Germany.) Even the floors and pavement surrounding the building are uneven, so leave your heels at home. Visitors can explore a gallery showcasing Hundertwasser’s illustrations, architectural models, textiles (including, morbidly, the very carpet he died on in 2000) and some of his inventions (such as his the composting toilet that the artist said turned “shit” to “gold”). Pictured here is an outdoor sculpture by the artist.


Hundertwasser also highly respected Indigenous and Māori artwork, so it’s only fitting that the museum is also home to the Wairau Art Gallery, the largest contemporary Māori art gallery in the world. Its importance can’t be understated, but it’s surprisingly small given its tagline. (During my last visit, there was only enough room for seven pieces of artwork to be displayed.)


It will take you about an hour to work your way through both galleries (more if you stop for a drink at the art center’s popular Aqua Restaurant), but a guided tour is a must to truly appreciate the design of the building itself. Some of the local guides were instrumental in seeing the project to fruition, while others even knew the man himself. The tours are very affordably priced at NZ$10 and hosted daily at 10am.