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It’s all about excess at the Bearfoot, from the Belvedere room with its ice walls, where you can do frosty shots of vodka, to the 20,000-bottle wine cellar where you can savor a bottle of Champagne. Hard to believe this was once just a simple little bistro. It’s now a sprawling space, filled with funky wrought iron and leather chairs, interesting works of art, and the sense that naughty behavior is always just one more glass of bubble away. The centerpiece of the room is the open kitchen where superstar chef Melissa Craig works her magic. Her dinners are tasting menus that take you on a journey to some wild and wonderful places, depending on what’s fresh, in season, and beautiful: Think lobster bisque, steelhead trout with spring onion cream, lamb T-bone with tabbouleh-style quinoa. Plus you can always top things up with a slab of foie gras or a spoonful of local sturgeon caviar. And with that huge cellar, you know the wine selection is bound to impress.