Umberto Menghi once had something of an Italian restaurant empire in Vancouver. Now that he’s “retired,” he’s got his two places in Whistler. And the cooking school in Tuscany. And there are rumors he’s reopening his beloved Il Giardino in downtown Vancouver. Until that happens, Trattoria and its sister restaurant, Il Caminetto (tel. 604/932-4442) on the Village Stroll, are the only places you can sample his classic dishes. Both have an exuberant Tuscan look, Trattoria being the more rustic of the two, with exposed wooden beams and ceramic pigs to keep things real. The menu features all the usual pastas and antipasti, as well as fish, steaks, and game, all prepared Italian style. The wine list features plenty of big Italian reds, and the friendly servers are happy to welcome your bambino.