Bareboating in the Whitsundays.

If "bareboating" is a mystery to you, take heart -- you're not alone. It simply means you are sailing the boat yourself. And if that seems daunting, rest assured that thousands of people do it safely every year. Most of the many yacht-charter companies in the islands will want one person on the boat to have a little experience at the helm of a vessel, but don't worry if you're a total novice. You do not need a license, and sailing is surprisingly easy in these uncrowded waters, where the channels are deep and hazard-free and the seas are protected from big swells by the Great Barrier Reef. The 74 islands are so close to each other that one is always in sight, and safe anchorages are everywhere.

If you have no boating experience, or if you think you know what you're doing but just want extra reassurance, the company may require you to take a skipper along at an extra cost of around A$40 per hour or A$350 overnight. Most companies mail you a preparation kit before you leave home. Before departure, they give you a thorough 2- to 3-hour briefing and easy-to-read maps marking channels, anchorage points, and the very few dangerous reefs. Your charter company will radio in once or twice a day to check that you're still afloat, and you can contact the staff anytime for advice.

Most yachts are fitted for two to eight passengers. Try to get a boat with two berths more than you need if your budget will bear it, because space is always tight. The boats usually have a galley kitchen, a barbecue mounted to the stern, hot showers, a toilet, linens, a radio or stereo (or both), a motorized dinghy, and snorkeling equipment. Sleeping quarters usually include a mix of single galley berths and one or two very compact private cabins. You can buy your own provisions or have the charter company stock the boat at an extra cost of about A$50 per person per day. Most operators will load a windsurfer, fishing tackle, and scuba-diving equipment on request, for an extra fee if they are not standard.

In peak season, you may have to charter the boat for a week. At other times, most companies impose a minimum of 5 days, but many will rent for 3 nights if you ask, rather than let a vessel sit idle. Five nights is a good length; it allows you to get familiar enough with the boat to relax and enjoy yourself.

In peak season, expect to pay A$550 to A$800 per night for a standard four- to six-berth yacht, more if you want something luxurious. Rates in the off season, and even in the Whitsundays' busiest time, June through August, will be anywhere from A$100 to A$200 less. If you are prepared to book within 14 days of when you want to sail, the deals can be even better; you should be able to find a boat that late in the off season. You may be asked to post a credit card bond of around A$2,000. Fuel and park fees are extra, and mooring fees apply if you want to stop at one of the island resorts overnight. A number of bareboat-charter companies offer "sail-'n'-stay" packages that combine a few days of sailing with a few days at an island resort.

Most bareboat charter companies will make complete holiday arrangements for you in the islands, including accommodations, transfers, tours, and sporting activities. Most companies operate out of Airlie Beach, Hamilton Island, or both. Well-known operators include Whitsunday Rent-A-Yacht (tel. 1800/075 000 in Australia, or 07/4946 9232; www.rentayacht.com.au); Queensland Yacht Charters (tel. 1800/075 013 in Australia, or 07/4946 7400; www.yachtcharters.com.au); and Sunsail (tel. 1800/803 988 in Australia or 07/4948 9509; www.sunsail.com.au). Tourism Whitsundays can furnish you with a complete list of operators.

If you don't want to sail yourself, countless skippered sailing trips go through the islands.

Sailing & Snorkeling Trips

A cheaper alternative to skippering your own yacht -- also called "bareboating" -- around the Whitsundays is a journey on one of the many yachts offering 3-day, 2-night sailing adventures around the islands. You can learn to sail or get involved with sailing the boat as much or as little as you want, snorkel to your heart's content over one dazzling reef after another, beach comb, explore national park trails, stop at secluded bays, swim, sunbathe, and generally have a laid-back good time. A few companies offer introductory and qualified scuba diving for an extra cost per dive. Most boats carry a maximum of 12 passengers, so the atmosphere is always friendly and fun. The food is generally good, the showers are usually hot, and you sleep in comfortable but small berths off the galley. Some have small private twin or double cabins.

Prices usually include all meals, Marine Park entrance fees, snorkel gear, and transfers to the departure point (Abel Point Marina or Shute Harbour). In the off season, the boats compete fiercely for passengers; you'll see signboards on the main street in Airlie Beach advertising standby deals.

Among the better known boats are the Ragamuffin (tel. 1800/454 777 in Australia or 07/4946 7777; www.maxiaction.com.au), a 17m (56-ft.) oceangoing yacht which runs two 2-hour sailing trips, to Blue Pearl Bay and Whitehaven Beach. Each costs A$156 adults, A$60 kids 5 to 15, or A$365 for a family of four. Prosail (tel. 1800/810 116 in Australia or 07/4946 7533; www.prosail.com.au) runs sailing trips through the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park. All trips include sailing, snorkeling, scuba diving, and bushwalking, and you can sail on megayachts such as the Condor, Broomstick, and Hammer. A 2-day, 2-night trip costs A$409 per person. Contact Tourism Whitsundays for details on other charters.