Modern American cuisine is served in this well-appointed restaurant with a long copper bar and open kitchen. The chef in that kitchen takes smart (and delightful) liberties with the traditional entrees on the seasonal menu. Duck breast is paired with a thistle-honey gastrique and a beggar's purse of confit, for example. The pork chop is anything but plain when accompanied by a goat cheese soufflé. On the appetizer menu are foie gras, mozzarella and local tomatoes, Rappahannock oysters, and fricassee of rabbit. You know what else I liked? The gigantic ice cubes that cool the well-mixed cocktails.