Planning a trip to Wroclaw

Wrocaw's helpful tourist information center is situated on the Rynek (Rynek 14; tel. 71/344-31-11; www.wroclaw-info.pl; spring-fall daily 9am-9pm, winter daily 9am-8pm). In addition to handing out maps and selling postcards, the staff can help arrange tours of the city, book hotel and restaurant reservations, sort out bus and train tickets, and even rent bikes. Another recommendable source of information, especially on cultural events, is Wrocaw-Info Souvenirs (Sukiennice 12; tel. 71/342-01-85; www.wroclaw-info.pl; daily 9am-8pm), just opposite the information office by the Ratusz. A good source of general information is the free publication The Visitor, updated every 2 months, or the very helpful Wrocaw, In Your Pocket, often given out free at hotel reception desks.

City Layout

Wrocaw is a sprawling city with roads and commerce spreading out in all directions. Most of the main sights, however, are located in the compact center around the enormous main square, the Rynek. Another clutch of main sights is situated on the Ostrów Tumski, across the Odra River and northwest of the city center, about a 10- to 15-minute walk from the Rynek.

Getting There

By Air

Nicolaus Copernicus Airport (Skarzynskiego 36; tel. 71/358-13-81; www.airport.wroclaw.pl) is a decent-sized airport with flights throughout Europe, including to London's Luton and Stansted airports. The airport is about 14km (8 3/4 miles) northwest of the city center. To get to town, take bus 406, which will drop you just behind the train station . The trip costs 2.40 z. Leave about 40 minutes for the journey (more during rush hour). Taxis to and from the airport cost about 60 z.

By Train

At press time, Wrocaw's main train station, Gówny (Pisudskiego 105; tel. 71/717-16-74; www.pkp.pl), was undergoing a thorough multiyear renovation. The station was still operating, but entry was possible only through a confusing warren of tunnels. Leave extra time before departures to find your platform. The station is a tourist site in its own right: a spooky-looking multi-turreted castle dating from the 19th century. It's about a 15-minute walk to town from the station, or you can take a taxi (around 8 z). Wrocaw is well served by rail, and connections to major Polish cities are frequent, though the bus is usually a quicker bet for getting to Warsaw.

By Bus 

The main bus station, Dworzec Centralny PKS (Sucha 1/11; tel. 300/300-122), is a giant Quonset hut of a building situated just behind the main train station, making it convenient for connections between bus and train. To get to the center, walk about 15 minutes or take a taxi (around 8 z). The layout is a little confusing, but there's a large timetable (departures in yellow) in the main information hall. There's also a helpful information booth where you can get information on departure options. Long-haul buses run to and from Warsaw, Lódz, and Katowice, among other cities. Wrocaw is a regional transportation hub, and frequent buses serve the main destinations, including Kodzko, Swidnica, and Jelenia Góra.

By Car

Wrocaw lies on the main four-lane highway (A4) linking the German border with Kraków, so getting here from Germany or Kraków is easy. The stretch from Kraków to Katowice will cost a toll of 8 z, but it's well worth the money because of the time you save. Once in Wrocaw, finding a parking spot may prove a challenge. Public metered parking costs 3 z per hour in the immediate center and 2.10 z per hour in other areas. Buy tickets from special machines in parking areas and display your ticket inside the car on the dashboard.

Getting Around

Car travel is limited in the immediate city center, so you'll find yourself doing a lot of walking. For journeys outside the center, there's a huge network of trams and buses. Driving is pointless since traffic is usually heavy and you probably won't be able to park close to where you want to go anyway.

On Foot -- The center is compact and easy to manage on foot.

By Tram/Bus -- Outside of the Old Town, tram and bus lines are extensive. Tickets cost 2.40 z for regular service and 2.80 z for night buses, and are available from vending machines around town or newspaper kiosks. Validate your ticket on entering the vehicle and hold on to it for the duration of the ride.

By Taxi -- Taxis are useful for getting to and from the airport, train station, and bus station, but you probably won't need them for anything else. Dishonest drivers have sometimes been a problem. Never get into an unlicensed taxi and use reputable firms. MPT Radio Taxi (tel. 71/191-91) and Lux (tel. 71/196-23) are two of the best.

By Bike -- The city is relatively flat, and bikes are generally exempt from basic traffic prohibitions like driving along pedestrian roads and on one-way streets, but the appeal of bike travel is limited by busy roads and a lack of dedicated bike trails. The main tourist information office on the Rynek rents bikes.