Along with good clothes and sports shops on Dong Dajie, and a decent supermarket in the Century Ginwa (below Bell Tower Square), Xi'an has plenty of decent markets.
Ba Xian An -- The outdoor antiques market on Sunday mornings is the most atmospheric in town. Despite a sign warning that antiques must be declared with Customs before you leave China, there's no guarantee that what you buy is a genuine antique. But there is a buzz to the place, and you can find some wonderful Cultural Revolution kitsch, ceramics, bronze Buddhas, and Qing coins. See the Ba Xian An review in "Exploring Xi'an," above, for directions.
Huajue Xiang -- The most enjoyable place to shop for souvenirs is the covered alleyway that leads to Da Qingzhensi. Shopping here is a blood sport, and you are the game, but the vendors are friendly. Interesting finds include feng shui compasses, Mao lighters, Tibetan prayer wheels, Little Red Books in French, and gnarled walking sticks.
Shuyuan Xiang -- This enjoyable street for browsing is east of Nan Men, on the way to Beilin Bowuguan. Shops sell huge paint brushes, rubbings, paintings, and musical instruments, and you can watch artists at work in this faithfully restored street.