Qinghai Hu
Large, high, salty, and stunningly blue, the lake that gave Qinghai (Blue Sea) Province its name provides an ornithological spectacle in April and early July, and wild vistas year-round. Over 100,000 birds migrate from the Indian Ocean to feed on spawn of Lake Kokonor's one variety of fish, the slow-growing scaly carp (huangyu), which swims up the Buka He each spring. The fattened birds crowd onto tiny Niao Dao (Bird Island), actually a peninsula situated on the northwest side of the lake. Tibetans consider this island as the plug for the lake. In 2005, a bird flu scare closed down the lake for several weeks, when hundreds of migratory birds were found dead near the shore.
Most hotels in Xining offer tours to Lake Kokonor, starting from ¥100. Be clear about what your tour includes. To come independently you can take a morning bus (3 hr.; ¥29) from the long-distance station. Tibetan Connections can organize overnight trips to the lake which stop at Ta'er Si en-route and drive via the 4,400m (14,436 ft.) La Ji Shan pass; for a Jeep holding 4 people the cost is ¥150 per person. Bird-watchers should head for Niao Dao Binguan (tel. 0970/865-5098) on Bird Island, which has basic rooms for ¥380. Otherwise the best place to stay on the lake is Jinshawan (tel. 0/138-9700-5222), which is operated by Taiwanese and includes a horse or ATV ride in its ¥100 entry fee. Accommodation is in tents and costs ¥50 per person including breakfast.
Large, high, salty, and stunningly blue, the lake that gave Qinghai (Blue Sea) Province its name provides an ornithological spectacle in April and early July, and wild vistas year-round. Over 100,000 birds migrate from the Indian Ocean to feed on spawn of Lake Kokonor's one variety of fish, the slow-growing scaly carp (huangyu), which swims up the Buka He each spring. The fattened birds crowd onto tiny Niao Dao (Bird Island), actually a peninsula situated on the northwest side of the lake. Tibetans consider this island as the plug for the lake. In 2005, a bird flu scare closed down the lake for several weeks, when hundreds of migratory birds were found dead near the shore.
Most hotels in Xining offer tours to Lake Kokonor, starting from ¥100. Be clear about what your tour includes. To come independently you can take a morning bus (3 hr.; ¥29) from the long-distance station. Tibetan Connections can organize overnight trips to the lake which stop at Ta'er Si en-route and drive via the 4,400m (14,436 ft.) La Ji Shan pass; for a Jeep holding 4 people the cost is ¥150 per person. Bird-watchers should head for Niao Dao Binguan (tel. 0970/865-5098) on Bird Island, which has basic rooms for ¥380. Otherwise the best place to stay on the lake is Jinshawan (tel. 0/138-9700-5222), which is operated by Taiwanese and includes a horse or ATV ride in its ¥100 entry fee. Accommodation is in tents and costs ¥50 per person including breakfast.
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