Side Trips in Yarmouth
The Atlantic coast between Yarmouth and Halifax is that quaint, maritime Nova Scotia you see on laminated place mats and calendars. Lighthouses and weathered, shingled buildings perch at the rocky edge of the sea, as if tenuously trespassing on the ocean's good graces. But as rustic and beautiful as this area is, you might find it a bit monotonous to visit every quaint village along this coastline -- which involves some 300-plus kilometers (200-plus miles) of slow, twisting road along water's edge. If your heart is set on fully exploring this fabled landscape, then, be sure to leave enough time for the many nooks and crannies along this stretch of the coast. Towns such as Lunenburg, Mahone Bay, and Peggy's Cove are well worth the time.
It's sensible to allow more time here for one more reason: fog. When the cool waters of the Arctic currents mix with the warm summer air over land, the results are predictably soupy. The fog certainly adds atmosphere. But it can also slow driving to a crawl.
All that being said, the road between Pubnico and Caple Sable Island is a wonderfully scenic drive. Here’s how to do it. When you leave Yarmouth, travel east on scenic Route 3. Pubnico, about 40km (25 miles) down Route 3, is the world’s oldest Acadian region still inhabited by its descendants, with a 17-acre restored Acadian Village (tel. 902/762-2530) overlooking Pubnico Harbour. It offers a compelling look at pioneer life through costumed interpreters and a taste of home-cooked Acadian cuisine. For lunch, stop at the Dennis Point Café (tel. 902/762-2112), a good, solid diner usually loaded with fishermen. The heaping helpings of seafood are so large, they’re presented on serving platters. The cafe faces the wharf, where one of the biggest fishing fleets in Atlantic Canada ties up. Get back on the road and drive another 40km (25 miles) along scenic Route 3 to a small commercial area at the entry to the causeway to Cape Sable Island. If you haven’t already dined, pop into Capt. Kat’s Lobster Shack (tel. 902/637-3728) where they serve up simple but well-prepared lobster, fish, and other dishes. Head across the causeway on the short, circular drive around Cape Sable Island for a look at a thriving fishing community. Stop at the wharves and chat up the fishermen, most of whom will be glad to serve up a yarn. Ask directions to The Hawk, Nova Scotia’s most southern point and a beach known for bird-watching and views of the province’s tallest lighthouse, the Cape Sable Light.
